16
Maintenance Guides / Re: Front wheel bearing change - all models
« on: 06 April 2007, 21:14:35 »
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19
Maintenance Guides / Re: Spark Plugs Change 2.6/3.2 V6 (2.5/3.0 similar
« on: 20 January 2007, 23:56:38 »
Pic 15&16 – The infamous rear passenger side spark plug presented no problem whatsoever – it seems that on the new engines access is good, as long as you have the exact right length of extension. The pictures show that both a standard ratchet and a torque wrench can easily fit. However some find that removing the scuttle helps improve access.
Pic 17 – Interestingly, the spark plugs removed from the engine were branded Bosch, not Vauxhall or GM. The replacement ones are also made by Bosch but are GM-branded. Both have the same number stamped on the metal part so the old plugs and the new plugs are identical.
Looking at the old plugs, they did 40k and they seemed fine (the old plug in the picture seems a bit blackish but this is not the case – they did look right). Vauxhall’s specified replacement intervals are 40k for the 2-electrode plugs fitted on the 2.5/3.0 and 80k for the 4-electrode plugs fitted on the 2.6/3.2, but I think they should be replaced at 40k regardless.
Pic 18 – The old plugs removed from the engine clearly had copper grease applied to the threads, and since these were the original factory-fitted ones I followed suit with a thin smear of copper grease. However, some say that the spark plugs should be fitted dry, so make up tour own mind which is best for you. As I said, I chose the old-fashioned method and had the plug threads copper-greased.
Fitting the new plugs – good practice is to use a rubber hose to get the thread started in order not to cross-thread the spark plugs sockets. I didn’t use one – though I don’t advise doing this – I screwed the spark plugs in by hand with a long extension, using VERY VERY little force, no more than what you can muster between your thumb and forefinger, and backing-up at the slight sign of resistance. With extreme care and a steady hand this can be done, but again this is not the recommend way.
The spark plugs were torqued with a torque wrench to 25NM. I also noticed that the wrench ‘broke’ exactly after 1/4 turn from pressure applying point – which is what it should do.
Pic 19 – refitting is basically just a matter of putting everything back as it was. As for the coil packs cover screws, I have no torque figures for them, and the only indication is that they were quite tight on removal. But the whole thing is made of plastic, and over-tightening the screw may fracture it and allow water in. So I tightened it as hard as I could using only a 3/8” screw-driver handle and a socket (instead of a wrench).
Pic 20 – All done… I started the engine, it ticks-over fine and no Engine Management Light on (meaning that all wires and plugs were in the right places).
Pic 17 – Interestingly, the spark plugs removed from the engine were branded Bosch, not Vauxhall or GM. The replacement ones are also made by Bosch but are GM-branded. Both have the same number stamped on the metal part so the old plugs and the new plugs are identical.
Looking at the old plugs, they did 40k and they seemed fine (the old plug in the picture seems a bit blackish but this is not the case – they did look right). Vauxhall’s specified replacement intervals are 40k for the 2-electrode plugs fitted on the 2.5/3.0 and 80k for the 4-electrode plugs fitted on the 2.6/3.2, but I think they should be replaced at 40k regardless.
Pic 18 – The old plugs removed from the engine clearly had copper grease applied to the threads, and since these were the original factory-fitted ones I followed suit with a thin smear of copper grease. However, some say that the spark plugs should be fitted dry, so make up tour own mind which is best for you. As I said, I chose the old-fashioned method and had the plug threads copper-greased.
Fitting the new plugs – good practice is to use a rubber hose to get the thread started in order not to cross-thread the spark plugs sockets. I didn’t use one – though I don’t advise doing this – I screwed the spark plugs in by hand with a long extension, using VERY VERY little force, no more than what you can muster between your thumb and forefinger, and backing-up at the slight sign of resistance. With extreme care and a steady hand this can be done, but again this is not the recommend way.
The spark plugs were torqued with a torque wrench to 25NM. I also noticed that the wrench ‘broke’ exactly after 1/4 turn from pressure applying point – which is what it should do.
Pic 19 – refitting is basically just a matter of putting everything back as it was. As for the coil packs cover screws, I have no torque figures for them, and the only indication is that they were quite tight on removal. But the whole thing is made of plastic, and over-tightening the screw may fracture it and allow water in. So I tightened it as hard as I could using only a 3/8” screw-driver handle and a socket (instead of a wrench).
Pic 20 – All done… I started the engine, it ticks-over fine and no Engine Management Light on (meaning that all wires and plugs were in the right places).
20
Maintenance Guides / Re: Spark Plugs Change 2.6/3.2 V6 (2.5/3.0 similar
« on: 20 January 2007, 23:55:25 »
Pic 9 – At the rear of the engine, remove support bracket screw A. Just behind the bracket, in the same red circle, there is a connector plug that needs to be un-plugged by pressing the wire spring at the top and bottom. The connector should come-off with the spring in place, if the spring falls-off behind the engine it may not be recovered in a hurry…
Pic 10 – The disconnected plug is shown in A, while the spring is shown in B. I actually broke a bit of plastic off the plug while trying to prise-off the spring, which was wrong as the spring should actually stay on the connector and there is no need to prise it off... but when refitting it seem to stay securely in place in spite of the broken bit.
Pic 11&12 – The plastic cover that holds the electrical cabling needs to be prised-open and removed – both parts, top and bottom. This is time consuming, and again I managed to break a few of the plastic clips (of which there are quite a few), so be patient and work slowly.
Pic 13 – The two plastic cover - both parts – shown removed on top of the plenum. Now we can finally prise-off the passenger side coil pack cover in the same way as we did on the driver’s side (Pics 2&3).
Pic 14 – Coil packs lifted from spark plugs wells, driver’s side is ready for spark plug change…
Pic 10 – The disconnected plug is shown in A, while the spring is shown in B. I actually broke a bit of plastic off the plug while trying to prise-off the spring, which was wrong as the spring should actually stay on the connector and there is no need to prise it off... but when refitting it seem to stay securely in place in spite of the broken bit.
Pic 11&12 – The plastic cover that holds the electrical cabling needs to be prised-open and removed – both parts, top and bottom. This is time consuming, and again I managed to break a few of the plastic clips (of which there are quite a few), so be patient and work slowly.
Pic 13 – The two plastic cover - both parts – shown removed on top of the plenum. Now we can finally prise-off the passenger side coil pack cover in the same way as we did on the driver’s side (Pics 2&3).
Pic 14 – Coil packs lifted from spark plugs wells, driver’s side is ready for spark plug change…
21
Maintenance Guides / Re: Spark Plugs Change 2.6/3.2 V6 (2.5/3.0 similar
« on: 20 January 2007, 23:53:47 »
Pic 5 – Passenger side – at the front of the engine, remove support bracket screw A. Open clip B and move the coolant hose out of the way (there is another clip in the rear of the engine that needs to be removed as well in order to free up the hose completely). Disconnect plugs C and D. Remove screw E (picture shown with screw already removed) and remove the bracket holding the air-condition pipe. Move the air-condition pipe as far away from the engine as possible - I found that sticking it behind the dipstick did the trick.
Pic 6 – Lift the tab at the base of the oil filler cap and remove the oil filler cap by turning it quarter-turn anti-clockwise. This is a good opportunity to check the condition of the cams and gear – assuming that the bit you can see is representative of the whole system – and mine is clean and shiny.
Pic 7&8 – Remove the brake servo vacuum joint by using two spanners, a 17mm on the bit that is screwed into the plenum and a 19mm on the outer unit. You need to keep the 17mm spanner steady and work only the 19mm, to make sure that you do not loosen the bit the goes into the plenum. Once removed, move the vacuum pipe out of the way.
Pic 6 – Lift the tab at the base of the oil filler cap and remove the oil filler cap by turning it quarter-turn anti-clockwise. This is a good opportunity to check the condition of the cams and gear – assuming that the bit you can see is representative of the whole system – and mine is clean and shiny.
Pic 7&8 – Remove the brake servo vacuum joint by using two spanners, a 17mm on the bit that is screwed into the plenum and a 19mm on the outer unit. You need to keep the 17mm spanner steady and work only the 19mm, to make sure that you do not loosen the bit the goes into the plenum. Once removed, move the vacuum pipe out of the way.
22
Maintenance Guides / Re: Spark Plugs Change 2.6/3.2 V6 (2.5/3.0 similar
« on: 20 January 2007, 23:52:49 »
Pic 1 – Working on the driver’s side first, move to one side the two coolant hoses and remove supporting bracket B by undoing screw A. The screw has very limited access, but can be undone by a small 1/4” drive ratchet with the appropriate Torx socket. I did not have a Torx socket on my 1/4” ratchet, and the 3/8" handle would not fit in the space, so I used a normal (non-Torx) 1/4” socket on the screw, which can be done but requires care.
Pic 2&3 – Remove coil pack cover screws A and B, and remove the coil pack cover itself. This is a bit tricky, you need to prise it very carefully to get it loose, but be careful not to damage the rubber seal – you don’t want water or humidity getting into the coil packs (let alone oil from leaky rocker cover gaskets). Then pull it up using fingers power only, no tools. The tricky bit is that – as can be seen in Pic 3 – the whole thing needs to move upwards in one go and the rubber around the spark plug necks has quite a long reach. The good news is that rubber is flexible so the whole thing can be manoeuvred out.
Pic 4 – The driver’s side is ready for spark plug removal. The spark plugs wells are clean and shiny, so no need to clean dust and dirt before removing the spark plugs. This is thanks to the coil pack cover and rubber seal, and it also demonstrates why they should be kept intact.
Pic 2&3 – Remove coil pack cover screws A and B, and remove the coil pack cover itself. This is a bit tricky, you need to prise it very carefully to get it loose, but be careful not to damage the rubber seal – you don’t want water or humidity getting into the coil packs (let alone oil from leaky rocker cover gaskets). Then pull it up using fingers power only, no tools. The tricky bit is that – as can be seen in Pic 3 – the whole thing needs to move upwards in one go and the rubber around the spark plug necks has quite a long reach. The good news is that rubber is flexible so the whole thing can be manoeuvred out.
Pic 4 – The driver’s side is ready for spark plug removal. The spark plugs wells are clean and shiny, so no need to clean dust and dirt before removing the spark plugs. This is thanks to the coil pack cover and rubber seal, and it also demonstrates why they should be kept intact.
23
Maintenance Guides / Spark Plugs Change 2.6/3.2 V6 (2.5/3.0 similar)
« on: 20 January 2007, 23:52:16 »
This post describes changing the spark plugs on a 2.6 engine, which it is very similar to the 3.2. It can also be used as a guide when replacing spark plugs on 2.5/3.0 engines, though in this case there is a fair amount of additional items that need to be removed to gain access to the spark plugs.
More specifically, there are four main differences between the 2.5/3.0 and the 2.6/3.2 with regards to access to the spark plug area.
The first is that because the newer engines have individual coil packs, these are incorporated into the spark plug holder and there is not DIS module or HT leads. Instead, there is a plastic cover on top of the spark plugs (between the rocker covers) that needs to be removed.
The second and third is that with the newer engines being ‘Drive-by-Wire’ and having no mechanical EGR valve, there is basically nothing at all blocking access to the driver-side spark plugs, making it very easy to work on.
The fourth is that on the newer engines the idle speed is ECU-controlled thus no ICV unit, making access easier to the passenger-side spark plugs.
If working on 2.5/3.0, these items will need to be removed to improve access. Also, on the 2.5/3.0 you will need to mark the HT leads to ensure that each is returned to its original location. And last, the plug wells on the 2.5/3.0 are not covered as on the 2.6/3.2 and dirt and oil can therefore accumulate in them – the wells should be cleaned prior to the plugs removal and care must be taken not to allow dirt or foreign objects to fall into the combustion chambers.
More specifically, there are four main differences between the 2.5/3.0 and the 2.6/3.2 with regards to access to the spark plug area.
The first is that because the newer engines have individual coil packs, these are incorporated into the spark plug holder and there is not DIS module or HT leads. Instead, there is a plastic cover on top of the spark plugs (between the rocker covers) that needs to be removed.
The second and third is that with the newer engines being ‘Drive-by-Wire’ and having no mechanical EGR valve, there is basically nothing at all blocking access to the driver-side spark plugs, making it very easy to work on.
The fourth is that on the newer engines the idle speed is ECU-controlled thus no ICV unit, making access easier to the passenger-side spark plugs.
If working on 2.5/3.0, these items will need to be removed to improve access. Also, on the 2.5/3.0 you will need to mark the HT leads to ensure that each is returned to its original location. And last, the plug wells on the 2.5/3.0 are not covered as on the 2.6/3.2 and dirt and oil can therefore accumulate in them – the wells should be cleaned prior to the plugs removal and care must be taken not to allow dirt or foreign objects to fall into the combustion chambers.
24
Omega Common Issues and FAQ / Vauxhall Spare Parts
« on: 21 July 2006, 00:49:23 »
Part 2
c. Third-Party/Pattern Parts (Branded)
What are they?
For any car part, there are usually several reputed firms making identical items as well as the OE manufacturer. For example, Ferodo manufactures brake pads for almost all makes of cars, but because Vauxhall buy their own pads elsewhere Ferodo are not considered OE manufacturers for Vauxhall (though thy may be OE manufacturers or other makes).
Where can they be bought?
Motor factor outlets, eBay, online shops.
What do we think about them?
While in principal identical items from reputed manufacturers are acceptable, there have been cases where specific makes did not work well with the Omega. For example there have been reports that exhaust systems made by Bosal, who usually make good system, did not last very long on the Omega. So we believe that generally speaking there should be a compelling reason why NOT to buy original Vauxhall parts or OE parts – such as very good price – before buying other-brand parts. If the price looks good and you are unsure about the suitability or quality, you can always raise the question in the General Help section in this forum before buying.
d. Third-Party/Pattern Parts (non-Branded)
What are they?
Well these are rarely really ‘non-branded’, what we mean is that they are not made by any of the main automotive manufacturers. And, in many cases the brand name is actually the importer’s name while the actual manufacturer is unknown.
Where can they be bought?
Anywhere, really…
What do we think about them?
It seems that some body and suspension parts can be had for much cheaper when purchased this way. Again, the same rule applies – avoid unless it is very cheap compared to the other alternatives, and post a question in the General Help section before buying.
c. Third-Party/Pattern Parts (Branded)
What are they?
For any car part, there are usually several reputed firms making identical items as well as the OE manufacturer. For example, Ferodo manufactures brake pads for almost all makes of cars, but because Vauxhall buy their own pads elsewhere Ferodo are not considered OE manufacturers for Vauxhall (though thy may be OE manufacturers or other makes).
Where can they be bought?
Motor factor outlets, eBay, online shops.
What do we think about them?
While in principal identical items from reputed manufacturers are acceptable, there have been cases where specific makes did not work well with the Omega. For example there have been reports that exhaust systems made by Bosal, who usually make good system, did not last very long on the Omega. So we believe that generally speaking there should be a compelling reason why NOT to buy original Vauxhall parts or OE parts – such as very good price – before buying other-brand parts. If the price looks good and you are unsure about the suitability or quality, you can always raise the question in the General Help section in this forum before buying.
d. Third-Party/Pattern Parts (non-Branded)
What are they?
Well these are rarely really ‘non-branded’, what we mean is that they are not made by any of the main automotive manufacturers. And, in many cases the brand name is actually the importer’s name while the actual manufacturer is unknown.
Where can they be bought?
Anywhere, really…
What do we think about them?
It seems that some body and suspension parts can be had for much cheaper when purchased this way. Again, the same rule applies – avoid unless it is very cheap compared to the other alternatives, and post a question in the General Help section before buying.
25
Omega Common Issues and FAQ / Vauxhall Spare Parts
« on: 21 July 2006, 00:47:21 »
Part 1
a. Original Parts
What are they?
These are original Vauxhall parts, supplied in Vauxhall-labelled packaging. Vauxhall do not actually make most of their spare parts themselves, instead they order them from other manufacturers who specialise in the specific area. For example, Vauxhall spark plugs carry the Vauxhall label both on the part itself and on the packaging, but they are in fact made by Bosch for Vauxhall.
Where can they be bought?
From Vauxhall Dealers, from eBay (though beware of fake items), or from firms specialising in Vauxhall spare parts.
What do we think about them?
Vauxhall parts are usually of very good quality and are reasonably priced, and as such they represent very good value. In the vast majority of cases we would recommend the original Vauxhall part because you can rarely better it in either quality or price. In addition, you are more likely to get the right parts for your car (although Vauxhall dealers have been known to make mistakes…).
b. OE/OEM Parts
What are they?
OE/OEM stands for Original Equipment Manufacturer. As mentioned above, most Vauxhall-branded parts are actually made by other automotive manufacturers. These companies also make the same parts for marketing under their own brand name and through their own distribution channels. For example, Vauxhall’s Cambelt Kit is made by Gates, so you can buy the same kit either branded as Vauxhall from a Vauxhall Dealer, or branded as Gates from a motor factor outlet.
Where can they be bought?
Motor factor outlets, eBay, online shops.
What do we think about them?
In principal there is nothing wrong in buying the same parts directly from its manufacturer. The theory is that is should work out cheaper, and in the case of the Cambelt Kit it does. However this is not always the case – for example Bosch-branded spark plugs are actually more expensive than the same Vauxhall-branded ones… So OE is OK but compare prices first and don’t assume that it is always cheaper than the Vauxhall-branded item.
a. Original Parts
What are they?
These are original Vauxhall parts, supplied in Vauxhall-labelled packaging. Vauxhall do not actually make most of their spare parts themselves, instead they order them from other manufacturers who specialise in the specific area. For example, Vauxhall spark plugs carry the Vauxhall label both on the part itself and on the packaging, but they are in fact made by Bosch for Vauxhall.
Where can they be bought?
From Vauxhall Dealers, from eBay (though beware of fake items), or from firms specialising in Vauxhall spare parts.
What do we think about them?
Vauxhall parts are usually of very good quality and are reasonably priced, and as such they represent very good value. In the vast majority of cases we would recommend the original Vauxhall part because you can rarely better it in either quality or price. In addition, you are more likely to get the right parts for your car (although Vauxhall dealers have been known to make mistakes…).
b. OE/OEM Parts
What are they?
OE/OEM stands for Original Equipment Manufacturer. As mentioned above, most Vauxhall-branded parts are actually made by other automotive manufacturers. These companies also make the same parts for marketing under their own brand name and through their own distribution channels. For example, Vauxhall’s Cambelt Kit is made by Gates, so you can buy the same kit either branded as Vauxhall from a Vauxhall Dealer, or branded as Gates from a motor factor outlet.
Where can they be bought?
Motor factor outlets, eBay, online shops.
What do we think about them?
In principal there is nothing wrong in buying the same parts directly from its manufacturer. The theory is that is should work out cheaper, and in the case of the Cambelt Kit it does. However this is not always the case – for example Bosch-branded spark plugs are actually more expensive than the same Vauxhall-branded ones… So OE is OK but compare prices first and don’t assume that it is always cheaper than the Vauxhall-branded item.
26
Omega Common Issues and FAQ / Omega Light Bulbs - List
« on: 04 April 2007, 00:53:49 »
Headlights - dipped beam = H1 or HID
Headlights - main beam = H1; HID or Projector (98 model year onwards) = H7
Fog lights = H1 or HB4 on the facelifts
Side light, Side indicator = W5W
Front indicator, Rear indicator = PY21W (Amber)
Brake light, Reversing light, Rear fog light = P21W (Clear)
Brake light / Tail light = P21/5W (Dual filament)
Tail light, License plate = R5W
Rear internal light, door light, boot light - C5W
[size=14]HB4[/size]
Headlights - main beam = H1; HID or Projector (98 model year onwards) = H7
Fog lights = H1 or HB4 on the facelifts
Side light, Side indicator = W5W
Front indicator, Rear indicator = PY21W (Amber)
Brake light, Reversing light, Rear fog light = P21W (Clear)
Brake light / Tail light = P21/5W (Dual filament)
Tail light, License plate = R5W
Rear internal light, door light, boot light - C5W
[size=14]HB4[/size]
27
Omega Common Issues and FAQ / Omega 2001 Performance and Fuel Economy Data
« on: 13 January 2007, 00:15:52 »
28
Omega Common Issues and FAQ / Omega-B Facelift 2001-2003 Petrol Perfromance Data
« on: 22 December 2006, 17:52:44 »
29
Omega Common Issues and FAQ / Omega Gear Ratios (Facelift MY 2001)
« on: 19 November 2006, 00:17:45 »
30
Omega Common Issues and FAQ / What is..... TIS, EPC, Autodata
« on: 03 August 2006, 21:45:15 »
TIS2000
Technical Information Service (TIS) is a GM software program that contains Technical Bulletins, Factory Recalls and Warranty-related Bulletins, as well as the full labour hours calculator for each job which is the basis for the dealers' charging (i.e. the hourly rate may change from one dealer to another, but the number of hour per job if fixed and dictated by Vauxhall through TIS). In addition, when used in conjunction with GM’s TECH2 diagnostics tool, TIS enables carrying-out software upgrades on some the car’s ECUs and other security-related operations.
GM’s Opel/Vauxhall edition of TIS 2000 covers all of Opel/Vauxhall’s models from around 1992 onwards. TIS is a GM software product which sold to its own Vauxhall dealers as well as to other independant garages. The cost for an annual subscription is around £1,200.
Disclaimer - The TIS software is supplied as a set of CDs that is being updated periodically, and it seems that some older copies of these CDs occasionally find there way to private car owners. On this site we do not condone obtaining any copyrighted material without the permission of its owner, and as such we can not provide any advice on the acquisition or use of TIS.
EPC
Electronics Parts catalogue (EPC) is a GM software program that contains exploded-view diagrams of all of the car’s subsystems accompanied with their Vauxhall Part Number. EPC is used by Vauxhall dealerships to identify the correct items’ part numbers, and as such replaces the old Microfiche system.
Disclaimer - EPC is a GM software product which is distributed internally to its own Vauxhall dealers, and it is not available for purchase by the general public. On this site we do not condone obtaining any copyrighted material without the permission of its owner, and as such we can not provide any advice on the acquisition or use of EPC.
Autodata
Autodata have been producing for many years a series of hefty catalogues the size of phonebooks, which contain basic technical data for all make and models of cars. The data included is typically service intervals, types and quantities of fluids (e.g. oils, coolant, brake fluid etc), location of common service items, torque settings etc. The information is not very detailed and it does not constitute a proper workshop manual, but it is generally accurate and is mostly useful for the independent garage that deals with various makes and models of cars.
The Autodata manuals are available for purchase on CD from www.autodata.ltd.uk, and the cost is between £99 to £570 (exc. VAT). The cost is for annual subscription and includes support.
Disclaimer - As with any other software packages, pirated copies may find their way to private users, but as mentioned before we do not condone obtaining any copyrighted material without the permission of its owner, and as such we can not provide any advice on the installation or use of Autodata CD.
Technical Information Service (TIS) is a GM software program that contains Technical Bulletins, Factory Recalls and Warranty-related Bulletins, as well as the full labour hours calculator for each job which is the basis for the dealers' charging (i.e. the hourly rate may change from one dealer to another, but the number of hour per job if fixed and dictated by Vauxhall through TIS). In addition, when used in conjunction with GM’s TECH2 diagnostics tool, TIS enables carrying-out software upgrades on some the car’s ECUs and other security-related operations.
GM’s Opel/Vauxhall edition of TIS 2000 covers all of Opel/Vauxhall’s models from around 1992 onwards. TIS is a GM software product which sold to its own Vauxhall dealers as well as to other independant garages. The cost for an annual subscription is around £1,200.
Disclaimer - The TIS software is supplied as a set of CDs that is being updated periodically, and it seems that some older copies of these CDs occasionally find there way to private car owners. On this site we do not condone obtaining any copyrighted material without the permission of its owner, and as such we can not provide any advice on the acquisition or use of TIS.
EPC
Electronics Parts catalogue (EPC) is a GM software program that contains exploded-view diagrams of all of the car’s subsystems accompanied with their Vauxhall Part Number. EPC is used by Vauxhall dealerships to identify the correct items’ part numbers, and as such replaces the old Microfiche system.
Disclaimer - EPC is a GM software product which is distributed internally to its own Vauxhall dealers, and it is not available for purchase by the general public. On this site we do not condone obtaining any copyrighted material without the permission of its owner, and as such we can not provide any advice on the acquisition or use of EPC.
Autodata
Autodata have been producing for many years a series of hefty catalogues the size of phonebooks, which contain basic technical data for all make and models of cars. The data included is typically service intervals, types and quantities of fluids (e.g. oils, coolant, brake fluid etc), location of common service items, torque settings etc. The information is not very detailed and it does not constitute a proper workshop manual, but it is generally accurate and is mostly useful for the independent garage that deals with various makes and models of cars.
The Autodata manuals are available for purchase on CD from www.autodata.ltd.uk, and the cost is between £99 to £570 (exc. VAT). The cost is for annual subscription and includes support.
Disclaimer - As with any other software packages, pirated copies may find their way to private users, but as mentioned before we do not condone obtaining any copyrighted material without the permission of its owner, and as such we can not provide any advice on the installation or use of Autodata CD.