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[Crazycarzowner]

My 1997 V8 Disco has developed an annoying habit. The interior lights keep flickering into action when the doors are shut??? I thought it maybe the door switch buttons at fault so I replaced them all, but its still doing it. so much so they now stay on even when locked and flatten the battery.

Doors closed and locked with fob, therefore alarm active = the interior lights front rear & boot off. Leave it for 10 minutes and all the interior lights start to flicker, dimly at first (like the bulbs are on the way out) then come on constantly.

Blip the fob, doors unlock, open the door, any door and the interior light if not already on, comes on. Get in the truck, shut the door and the interior lights stay on.

The manual switch in the roof works perfectly in all 3 positions.

So far I've chased all the relevant door switch earths, give em a good clean. Replaced all the door switches, taken apart all 3 of the interior lights and cleaned the contacts and re-built them. Rear wiper works fine. Put them all back together and I still get the same symptoms 

I disconnected the alarm siren ages ago as it started to self combust due to the internal batteries leaking, but the alarm seems to still work correctly in that if you breach it the indicator lights start to flash.

Today -

Connect battery (sick of it going flat) - interior light is on constantly, when its in the middle position i.e. left to its own devises coming on when you open door or blip the alarm to open. This along with the red ignition light. Put the key in turn ignition on, there's no change. I tried to do this diagnostic thing with the MFU to check all the MFU circuits but it won't initiate. 

Strange thing is with the ignition on if you press the rear heated screen switch and keep it pressed in, the interior light go off??? As soon as you release the button the lights come back on 

I'm pretty useless at electrics, however I've been looking at the wiring diagram in the haynes book of lies and the interior lights & rear heated screen share an earth, could this be the fault in that there is a bad connection to earth?

[05omegav6]

Try a new heated rear window switch

In the meantime, set the interior switches to off

[Crazycarzowner]

Try a new heated rear window switch

In the meantime, set the interior switches to off

I know what you mean, doesn't solve the ignition key light issue though which stays on 

[Steve Brookman]

Hello,
If you haven't done it already-post the problem in landyzone.co.uk

Steve

[TD]

Strange thing is with the ignition on if you press the rear heated screen switch and keep it pressed in, the interior light go off??? As soon as you release the button the lights come back on 

I'm pretty useless at electrics, however I've been looking at the wiring diagram in the haynes book of lies and the interior lights & rear heated screen share an earth, could this be the fault in that there is a bad connection to earth?

This could be the problem, with a bad earth, when you turn on the rear heated screen, there could be considerable volts drop, causing the interior lights to go out. Without the rear heated screen on the volts rises again, but the +v will go back to 12v the Ov if theres a bad earth may be a volt above this causing the interior bulb  relay to have a mind of its own.
So I would find that earth ,attach a probe of a multimeter and attached the probe to good know earth , like battery -ve terminal, set the meter to ohms and see what it says.....battery disconnected being a good idea 

[the alarming man]

Try a new heated rear window switch

In the meantime, set the interior switches to off

I know what you mean, doesn't solve the ignition key light issue though which stays on 

more likely to be the barrel it self

[Nick W]

Try a new heated rear window switch

In the meantime, set the interior switches to off

I know what you mean, doesn't solve the ignition key light issue though which stays on 

more likely to be the barrel itself

Which is a long serving Austin-Rover part and conforms to all of their quality and durability requirements.

[Crazycarzowner]

Just been on the Landie forum, accourding to them I probably have a chaffed wire going to earth. 

Gonna have to wait till me backs better 1st I think. Can't be arsed getting meself in completely contorted in ridiculous positions yet, and I'm sure my back would agree.

However I've now got 2 locks reconfigured to fit just the one key 

[the alarming man]

Try a new heated rear window switch

In the meantime, set the interior switches to off

I know what you mean, doesn't solve the ignition key light issue though which stays on 

more likely to be the barrel itself

Which is a long serving Austin-Rover part and conforms to all of their quality and durability requirements.

which in a couple of words translates to 'it's totally cack'

[STEMO]

That's 'a few' words.

[the alarming man]

oh you can count as well blimey....Did you have to get your shoes and socks off?

[Crazycarzowner]

Well I've found the cause of the problem - Its the multi function unit 

Now then, here's the kick in the b0!!oCK$

There are 2 versions of the MFU as its more commonly known, a Black one  & a cream coloured one. The black ones are 2 a penny on Fleabay at £10ish each. Cream ones are more fickle, tend to break a lot and are the newer version  Second hand ones can't be trusted and new ones are upwards of £300.

Guess which one my car has fitted?? 

[GastronomicKleptomaniac]

Bloody typical!

Black one and a splash of Dulux?

[Crazycarzowner]

If only it were that simple GK, the 'cream one' has more functionality than the black one and if I got one of them (one on order from Fleabay) I'd loose some electrickery - i.e. everything I've got at the moment will work with the exception of the fog lights (which will be permanently on and the loss of the rear window wiper / washer.

I could possibly live without them,  but if I was gonna do a proper job (I like things to work) I'd some how have to re-wire them separate of the circuit and electrickery isn't my strong point. 

[GastronomicKleptomaniac]

If only it were that simple GK, the 'cream one' has more functionality than the black one and if I got one of them (one on order from Fleabay) I'd loose some electrickery - i.e. everything I've got at the moment will work with the exception of the fog lights (which will be permanently on and the loss of the rear window wiper / washer.

I could possibly live without them,  but if I was gonna do a proper job (I like things to work) I'd some how have to re-wire them separate of the circuit and electrickery isn't my strong point. 

Front or rear fogs? If fronts just cut the wires to the bulbs, you don't need them.

Rear window wash/wipe shouldn't be too hard to wire a seperate circuit for... then you can get some metal flick switches for air horns and the like too