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[charlieboy]

 Hi, me again, This forum have been so helpful to me in the past so here I come again seeking your expert knowledge,   I have a 2.6 auto and have been finding the engine dying on me particularly on roundabouts and corners  I did note this was mainly when I was low on fuel, not on empty, no petrol symbol showing but it seems to happen when I am on the low side I seem to cure itif I go to N then re-engage.... is it a problem with the gearbox? Your advice would be much appreciated, many thanks

[tunnie]

Is it an Estate?

[charlieboy]

no saloon, sorry

[Doctor Gollum]

Never let it drop below 1/4 tank and report back

[biggriffin]

Crank sensor.

I'm forever running on the low fuel light, never cuts out, very possible fuel filter to change aswel as crank sensor.

[Nick W]

Crank sensor.

I'm forever running on the low fuel light, never cuts out, very possible fuel filter to change aswel as crank sensor.

I've  always run mine right out too, with no problems. That's god knows how many cars over the last thirty years.


Your symptoms would suggest either the crank sensor(always worth replacing if it hasn't been done recently) or the Mass Air Flow meter, which is what I would check. Fortunately that's easy - disconnect it, and if the problem improves, you need a new one. Ignore the Engine Management Light whilst you do this, it will go out once you reconnect the MAF

[Alnico Blue]

My 2.6 estate  is always low on fuel as I don't use it much  . . . must say I was fearing the worst with this low fuel "thing" when I got it , being my first estate omega after 9 saloons.    But never had this issue  & its on 195 K 

May I suggest a good clean of the throttle body 

It could well be a crank sensor issue    . . . . but stalling when you come to a junction or roundabout IMO & experience,  would be a throttle body clean as first call     HTH

[charlieboy]

  Thanks for your replies, I know I am ignorant about cars, but where is a crank sensor and fuel filter?  I have not had anymore trouble with a tank half full of fuel   Could someone as thick as me do the job?  If so, where do I look for these things?

[terry paget]

There is a guide for the crank sensor in the V6 section, and for the fuel filter (estate) in the general engine section - saloon is easier than saloon.

[deviator]

I would be very surprised if both of these tasks aren't covered in the maintenence guides. Take a look and see if it's something you think you could handle. If not I shouldn't imagine either are huge jobs to pay to be done. Just get a genuine crank sensor.

[Enceladus]

If the issue has gone away due to filling the tank then I'd first replace the fuel filter. There might be crud that moves about and blocks, when you go round a bend. Also the filter is not routinely replaced,  usually only when somebody suspects a blockage, so yours might be as old as the car. You'll need some clamps to block the pipes before you replace the filter else you'll be covered in petrol.

Cutting out as you approach and stop at traffic lights, roundabouts and the like is more in the style of a failing crank sensor. But your opening post implies going round a corner or a bend only. You didn't mention stopping?

Also I wouldn't rely on the fuel gauge on the dash. Omegas seem to be woefully inaccurate. Carltons and Senators were better.

[Doctor Gollum]

Don't clamp the pipes. They're plastic 

Release the fuel pressure by removing the fuel pump fuse and cranking the engine a couple of times

[Nick W]

Don't clamp the pipes. They're plastic 

Release the fuel pressure by removing the fuel pump fuse and cranking the engine a couple of times

or do it using the pressure test port on the fuel rail. Which is common schraeder valve.
I doubt a new filter will make any difference unless the current one is actually leaking.


The stalling issue is going to be caused by something electrical that is operating erratically. I would check the MAF, idle speed control valve and crank sensor in that order. While working through that list I would thoroughly examine the vacuum system and  entire intake from the MAF into the engine.


That advice also applies to Terry's fast idle, which is a classic air leak symptom.

[terry paget]

Don't clamp the pipes. They're plastic 

Release the fuel pressure by removing the fuel pump fuse and cranking the engine a couple of times

or do it using the pressure test port on the fuel rail. Which is common schraeder valve.
I doubt a new filter will make any difference unless the current one is actually leaking.


The stalling issue is going to be caused by something electrical that is operating erratically. I would check the MAF, idle speed control valve and crank sensor in that order. While working through that list I would thoroughly examine the vacuum system and  entire intake from the MAF into the engine.


That advice also applies to Terry's fast idle, which is a classic air leak symptom.

[/highlight]Agreed. Problem is finding the leak. I have inserted the purge valve into the purge line, but even if the valve is open all the time it's no bigger a leak that before, when the tube from RH wing was plugged direct into the breather bridge. I suspect the idle control valve.