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[Doctor Gollum]

Knock yourself out and report back.

Those yellow marks are an approximation for basic assembly.

Timing tools are required to accurately check and set the timing.

The difference between not running and running is three cam pulley teeth. The difference between running and running spot on is a quarter cam pulley tooth and not possible to accurately assess by eye using the assembly marks. 

[biggriffin]

 Do not attempt to time up the engine/cams without the locking kit.

 If you have one the Haynes manual is a handy reference guide. 


 

[Nick W]

I bet my balls that the vast majority of mechanics align everything by the marks 

Many do, including whoever fitted the timing belt to my car. There were Tippex marks on all five pulleys, none of which lined up with anything! On fitting the timing tools, it was a tooth out on all four cams, probably caused by not turning the engine through and tweaking the timing. That's unforgivable because it's a basic step in fitting any timing belt/chain. I thought it was smooth and powerful but it got a lot better, and more economical, when correctly timed. All the extra marks lined up too!


Now you've watched it done with the correct tools you can see why it so much easier to do, let alone do correctly, with the tools - you don't have enough hands to hold the various springy parts to get the belt on.


If each pair of pulleys is correctly aligned(you check with the crank lock and gauge before removing the belt), the cam locks slip into place. If the engine is timed correctly, it will still be correct next time the belt is due for replacement.

[fcc-pt]

I bet my balls that the vast majority of mechanics align everything by the marks 

Many do, including whoever fitted the timing belt to my car. There were Tippex marks on all five pulleys, none of which lined up with anything! On fitting the timing tools, it was a tooth out on all four cams, probably caused by not turning the engine through and tweaking the timing. That's unforgivable because it's a basic step in fitting any timing belt/chain. I thought it was smooth and powerful but it got a lot better, and more economical, when correctly timed. All the extra marks lined up too!


Now you've watched it done with the correct tools you can see why it so much easier to do, let alone do correctly, with the tools - you don't have enough hands to hold the various springy parts to get the belt on.


If each pair of pulleys is correctly aligned(you check with the crank lock and gauge before removing the belt), the cam locks slip into place. If the engine is timed correctly, it will still be correct next time the belt is due for replacement.

Ordering the timing tool kit... it's the right thing to do it seems pretty simple!
Ok, so the timing tool kit it's the right way to time the engine after machine shop both heads right?

[Nick W]

Ordering the timing tool kit... it's the right thing to do it seems pretty simple!
Ok, so the timing tool kit it's the right way to time the engine after machine shop both heads right?

Once again, how would machining the head surfaces affect the cam timing when the tension of all three runs of the belt is adjustable? As long as the keys and keyways that align the pulleys to the shafts are good(and that's all they do, they don't provide the drive), you're done.


The only way the tools would no longer work is if you move each pair of cams closer together, or fit offset bearings to move the crank around. And nobody is going to do either of those!

[fcc-pt]

I'm pretty sure that valves and hydraulic tappets will be replaced or machined and for that you need to remove the camshafts!
How do I know that both camshafts are properly fitted and aligned?

[Nick W]

I'm pretty sure that valves and hydraulic tappets will be replaced or machined and for that you need to remove the camshafts!
How do I know that both camshafts are properly fitted and aligned?

You did mark each cam before removing them? Although they might all be the same, marking them saves so much hassle


They only go in one way!


Tighten the caps down evenly, and use a torque wrench as they're only small bolts into aluminium.


The pulleys are numbered, and keyed to the cam. That's what making the timing marks work.


If you can cock up fitting any of these parts, then you really shouldn't be getting so deep into engines....

[fcc-pt]

I'm pretty sure that valves and hydraulic tappets will be replaced or machined and for that you need to remove the camshafts!
How do I know that both camshafts are properly fitted and aligned?

You did mark each cam before removing them? Although they might all be the same, marking them saves so much hassle


They only go in one way!


Tighten the caps down evenly, and use a torque wrench as they're only small bolts into aluminium.


The pulleys are numbered, and keyed to the cam. That's what making the timing marks work.


If you can cock up fitting any of these parts, then you really shouldn't be getting so deep into engines....

I know that camshaft pulleys are numbered from left to right 1/2 3/4 and they can be interchanged like 2/1 and 4/3 as long as you use the correct marks etc.
My question was more about the pulley rotation position, are you stating that I should mark the pulleys rotation position before remove the heads?
I guess I could simply use the cam gauge after refit the heads and lock them!

[Nick W]

I know that camshaft pulleys are numbered from left to right 1/2 3/4 and they can be interchanged like 2/1 and 4/3 as long as you use the correct marks etc.
My question was more about the pulley rotation position, are you stating that I should mark the pulleys rotation position before remove the heads?
I guess I could simply use the cam gauge after refit the heads and lock them!

? ? ? ? ? 


The pulleys are keyed to the cams.


You can't fit them wrong.


You do need to use the correct mark for each numbered cam when fitting the cam locks. But they're already numbered.


Stop typing, and line all the parts up on the bench. It will make a lot more sense!

[biggriffin]

Reading this, you need to get someone to assist you, who knows what they are doing. And go here and buy book
 https://haynes.com/en-gb/?gclid=EAIaIQobChMIgrCNyJXC6wIVhu7tCh1K5AgOEAAYASAAEgKl8PD_BwE

[fcc-pt]

Reading this, you need to get someone to assist you, who knows what they are doing. And go here and buy book
 https://haynes.com/en-gb/?gclid=EAIaIQobChMIgrCNyJXC6wIVhu7tCh1K5AgOEAAYASAAEgKl8PD_BwE

That would be awesome except I don't know that person yet!

[fcc-pt]

I know that camshaft pulleys are numbered from left to right 1/2 3/4 and they can be interchanged like 2/1 and 4/3 as long as you use the correct marks etc.
My question was more about the pulley rotation position, are you stating that I should mark the pulleys rotation position before remove the heads?
I guess I could simply use the cam gauge after refit the heads and lock them!

? ? ? ? ? 


The pulleys are keyed to the cams.


You can't fit them wrong.


You do need to use the correct mark for each numbered cam when fitting the cam locks. But they're already numbered.


Stop typing, and line all the parts up on the bench. It will make a lot more sense!

Afaik you can mess up with pulley's since they aren't locked to a specific camshaft that's the reason they have two Marks.