91
Omega General Help / Re: Transmission Vibration
« on: 09 March 2009, 09:59:37 »
But.. this will not cure your autobox problems... so change the ATF first and only if it sorted-out the problem then get the ECU updated.
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92
Omega General Help / Re: Transmission Vibration
« on: 09 March 2009, 09:46:53 »Quote
the guys in the garage said the transmission level was low they put 3/4 of a pint in it !!! other than that they said all ok.
whats involves with the autobox ecu update, is it a trip to the stealers or can the TECH2 boys on here do it ?
Steve
They can indeed
93
Omega General Help / Re: Transmission Vibration
« on: 09 March 2009, 09:32:53 »
..and after changing the ATF, get the firmware updated on the autobox ECU.
94
Omega General Help / Re: Transmission Vibration
« on: 09 March 2009, 09:31:48 »
When the garge checked the level, did they not comment on bad coluring (dark brown) or burnt smell?
As a general rule, changing the ATF and changing/cleaning the filter is the first step before taking further any auto box problems.
Vx say that the ATF is 'for life', apart in the case of heavy urban use e.g. Taxi, in which case they recommend a change every 60-70k, but in practice all Vx auto boxes should have the AFT replaced at 50-60k.
Also, keep in mind that dropping the two autobox sumps and changing the fluid will only replace about half the ATF in the system... but this is how it goes.
As a general rule, changing the ATF and changing/cleaning the filter is the first step before taking further any auto box problems.
Vx say that the ATF is 'for life', apart in the case of heavy urban use e.g. Taxi, in which case they recommend a change every 60-70k, but in practice all Vx auto boxes should have the AFT replaced at 50-60k.
Also, keep in mind that dropping the two autobox sumps and changing the fluid will only replace about half the ATF in the system... but this is how it goes.
95
Omega General Help / Re: DIY service
« on: 09 March 2009, 09:25:28 »
Also, there are things that needs to be checked when servicing, worth having a list of those:
Brake pads thickness, discs thickness and grooving
Hand brake, adjust if needed
PAS fluid, check and top-up if needed
Battery, check for green dot if original Vx battery, clean and treat terminals
General leaks in engine bay
General undercarrige leaks (brake pipes, transmission, oil sump)
General condition or rubber bushes and gates in suspension
General condition on exhaust pipe and cats
Diff... not sure it needs checking if no visible leaks, but old school says check and top-up!
Tyres - wear and general condition
Brake pads thickness, discs thickness and grooving
Hand brake, adjust if needed
PAS fluid, check and top-up if needed
Battery, check for green dot if original Vx battery, clean and treat terminals
General leaks in engine bay
General undercarrige leaks (brake pipes, transmission, oil sump)
General condition or rubber bushes and gates in suspension
General condition on exhaust pipe and cats
Diff... not sure it needs checking if no visible leaks, but old school says check and top-up!
Tyres - wear and general condition
96
Omega General Help / Re: DIY service
« on: 09 March 2009, 09:17:55 »
Coolant change (Vx Red) and flush....
Also, use original Vx (or Bosch - same thing) spark plugs.
Also, use original Vx (or Bosch - same thing) spark plugs.
97
Omega General Help / Re: Facelift Omega - Rubbish heater?
« on: 05 March 2009, 11:11:19 »
Had a facelift for 6 years, and while I always thought the Climate had a mind of it's own and I never quite figured it out, the one thing that was working well was the heating... after all the car was built by Germans for Germans in... err... Germany. And it's cold there. So in short I don't know what the problem is, but it is not one of those 'they are all like that' things....
98
Omega General Help / Re: passenger door glass
« on: 05 March 2009, 11:37:02 »Quote
QuoteQuoteis there anything i need to know before i attempt to replace the smashed window.
My window took a bit of jiggling about to get it in the frame, but it was all quite straight forward. I drilled the pop rivets to remove the motor - thinking back, I'm not sure it had to com out, but it gave quite a bit more room in the door to work in.
Don't turn the ignition on half way through the job, or disconnect the battery if you have side airbags & don't want to have to have the light reset.
I posted a picture on your other thread of the tint etc of my window. There are different levels of tint, CBS/Craig can confirm too, if your 'new' window is from the breakers.
so i'll have to go and buy a pop rivet gun now
Again, don't know about the Omega door, but unless the head need to be flush then in most cases rivets can be replaced by bolts-and-nuts (e.g. as is the case with the lower control arm joint etc).
99
Omega General Help / Re: passenger door glass
« on: 05 March 2009, 11:23:39 »
Luckily I never had to do this on the Omega, but one tip from past experience with othr cars: when it gets to a point where the new glass need to slide into guides/rails or the holder at the base etc, do not be tempted to use oily lubricants or use force. Instead, use soapy water or wash-up liquid as lubricant. It will allow the glass to slide in easily, and once in place it can be washed-off leavilng a solid dry connection when the water dries off.
100
Omega General Help / Re: auto gear box
« on: 05 March 2009, 11:44:50 »
The proper path to follow for all auto gearbox issues is:
Check ATF level, if not OK then fill-up and see if problem stil exists.
If it does, replace the ATF and clean/replace the filter (see maintenance guides section)
This cures most of the problems, and only if it did not then you should look further i.e. ECU issues or problems with the box itself etc.
Check ATF level, if not OK then fill-up and see if problem stil exists.
If it does, replace the ATF and clean/replace the filter (see maintenance guides section)
This cures most of the problems, and only if it did not then you should look further i.e. ECU issues or problems with the box itself etc.
101
Omega General Help / Re: Check Light
« on: 05 March 2009, 11:33:38 »
As TB said....
Also, the oil leven sensor is inside the sump, so the sump will need to be removed in order to inspect it, not sure it is worth the bother.
The same goes for the washer fluid, the sensor is inside the bottle, though you could change the bottle (with the sensor) if it really bothers you, this is easier than getting to the oil level sensor....
Also, the oil leven sensor is inside the sump, so the sump will need to be removed in order to inspect it, not sure it is worth the bother.
The same goes for the washer fluid, the sensor is inside the bottle, though you could change the bottle (with the sensor) if it really bothers you, this is easier than getting to the oil level sensor....
102
Omega General Help / Re: Changing Fitted Radio
« on: 05 March 2009, 11:25:13 »
I meant legally-home-burnt CDs, of course... 
I record my own music in the garage
I record my own music in the garage
103
Omega General Help / Re: Changing Fitted Radio
« on: 05 March 2009, 11:17:13 »
Is your 2000 a facelift? On my facelift CDX (with the 4-CD changer) I could play home-burnt audio CDs no problem, though as you say it did not play mp3. You could try one of them mp3/FM adapter thingys they sell for a Tenner or so....
I understand that as said above the original radio can be replaced using a double-din adapter box, but (a) you will loose the radio display on the MID, (b) you will loose the automatic MID clock update from the radio, (c) the new radio will become a target for thieves, and (c) if it is indeed a facelift then I found the internal 4-CD changer much better and easier to use than the 6-CD changers that go in the boot or in the glove compartment or under the seat etc.... and it also has cassette player for sad old geezers like me
I understand that as said above the original radio can be replaced using a double-din adapter box, but (a) you will loose the radio display on the MID, (b) you will loose the automatic MID clock update from the radio, (c) the new radio will become a target for thieves, and (c) if it is indeed a facelift then I found the internal 4-CD changer much better and easier to use than the 6-CD changers that go in the boot or in the glove compartment or under the seat etc.... and it also has cassette player for sad old geezers like me
104
Omega General Help / Re: Very slow leak from tyre
« on: 23 January 2009, 20:05:02 »
Had a slow puncture, the sealant spray did bugger all, the tyreman said (while cleaning the mess inside the tyre) that I was lucky becuase usually the sealant spay destroys the tyre, though I am not sure why that is... or maybe they say this because they don't like cleaning-up the stuff.
If the leak is because of a nail and not from the wheel rim, be sure NOT to remove the nail until you get to the tyre fitter... a lady I know did just that and had to call-out the AA to swap the wheel.
If the leak is because of a nail and not from the wheel rim, be sure NOT to remove the nail until you get to the tyre fitter... a lady I know did just that and had to call-out the AA to swap the wheel.
105
Omega General Help / Re: Battery Recharge
« on: 01 January 2009, 16:33:18 »
In my experience, a battery that is too weak to turn the starter (but not completely flat) will have reasonable charge after around 15 minutes normal drive, i.e. fast urban. Obviously it will charge better if this is done on Motorway, and in daylight and good weather so no need for lights/wipers/demister etc. Hope this helps.