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[tunnie]

i just have a large screwdriver 

[Agemo]

I have used crowbars, levers, jack handles, loads of stuff - the best bit of kit is a hefty iron bar, at least three foot of leverage. If you can safely jack up the strut, it does make life easier too. 

[Clouseau]

I've done this twice and can't recall which, but one side is noticeably easier than the other. Worst problem I came across doing the job was when I dropped one of the rear bolts inside the subframe itself, down one of the helpfully placed cut outs in the frame.  Had to use a powerful magnetic pick up and all sorts of bits of wire etc to fish it out. Leaving it in there would have been a complete no-no!

I don't recall taking off the calipers and mounting brackets either.  Nice thick cold chisel between the 'lugs' of the ball joint pinch bolt freed that easily and then a few minutes wrestling and wrangling with the 'bones to get them free.

The key to lining up the shaft in the rear bush is a dirty great screwdriver from below, levering it straight until it lines up.

Oh and the main thing is not to tighten up the bolts to torque until the car is back resting on its wheels ... a sure way to destroy the bushes within a few thousand miles ....

[dbug]

little bugger still won't move.... the pin dropped a bit, keep bashing and it popped back up again! 

Call that a hammer mate - you need a big one 

[amba]

Why is the head held on with gaffer tape ?

[lee4206]

As I'm sure you will be getting it WIMed after just disconnect the hub from the shock after you've removed the bottom pin and tie it out of the way and you'll find the job a 100X easier. The vertical bush lines up because the arm can sit level, you can tighten the front bolt with the car in the air(you need to set the arm to the correct level before tightening) you don't struggle trying to hold the arm down to get the bottom pin in.
The order I do them is
Remove calliper and carrier (not always necessary)
Remove pinch bolt and lever arm out of hub
Remove hub assembly and secure up out of the way
Undo wishbone bolts and remove wishbone
Replace wishbone and bolts(this is where I tightened both bolts just raise the arm to correct position) I WOULD RECOMMEND REDOING THE BOLTS WHILST ON A RAMP ECT 
Replace hub bottom pin first (and pinch bolt)
Reattach hub to shock
Replace calliper.(if removed)

Personally I find this way a lot easier but I'm not saying its for everyone.
HTH
lee

[amba]

Just for future referrence is it necessary to replace all 3 bolts per side when you change wishbones on Omegas

[TheBoy]

why do I get the feeling I've wasted my breath

did you remove the steering knuckle with the wishbone? Camber screwed anyway.


you aren't likely to get much joy with driving 50 miles to mot station in order to try to bypass laws of the land.

[feeutfo]

Guys, the struts have been pinched off this car, and then thrown back together with any old struts to store it while T decided what to do with suspension etc.

So the camber setting is lost basically.

 Re fitting is an awfull lot easier with knuckle dis connected from strut. Fit wb, place knuckle on ball joint pin, the fit strut to knuckle bottom bolt first.

[feeutfo]

Ps, then follow the guide on preserving camber, using 13mil socket method. Etc...

[JamesV6CDX]

I have a feeling my set will be next!

[feeutfo]

And place your ramps under the wheels to torque the bolts wheels loaded. Your jack is man in enough, even.......  No never mind.

[Elite Pete]

You need to get the wishbone as level as possible to get the rear bolt to line up

[tunnie]

its all stripped down, strut disconnected, hub sitting on spare jack, taken just before i removed old one:

[TheBoy]

gotta fix one of bro's printers, would go on a sat, esp in build up before xmas, grrrr


hope I can do remotely, else I'll be off to Witney


after that, I should be free