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Nevermind

Hence I always suggest people with GM ones refurb them, rather than replace with crap.  Its a bit extra work, but cheaper and will last longer.

Is there any easy to spot tell tale that they are original GM? GM logo somewhere?

They'll look like they were rescued from the Titanic; rusty and covered in crap off the road. You're getting bogged down in details that are unimportant.


You've got new wishbones, so fit the front poly bushes and get them on the car. They'll be an improvement. If the removed ones look vaguely saveable, keep them. If they don't, bin them. To me, the only thing the originals do better than refurbished ones is that the ball joints are rivetted on, not bolted.

Also a moot point once they've been replaced as there isn't a single supplier of ball joints that supplies them with rivets.

And being bolted on actually makes them MORE serviceable, not less

Does the rev counter do that without driving?

And what does the battery gauge do when the rev counter fluctuates?

Is Fuse 12 intact?

Hence I always suggest people with GM ones refurb them, rather than replace with crap.  Its a bit extra work, but cheaper and will last longer.

Is there any easy to spot tell tale that they are original GM? GM logo somewhere?

They'll look like they were rescued from the Titanic; rusty and covered in crap off the road. You're getting bogged down in details that are unimportant.


You've got new wishbones, so fit the front poly bushes and get them on the car. They'll be an improvement. If the removed ones look vaguely saveable, keep them. If they don't, bin them. To me, the only thing the originals do better than refurbished ones is that the ball joints are rivetted on, not bolted.

 Overboard

That's why I am building my 51 Austin Countryman with all the Omega running gear, looks stock but far from it.

I bet that will go well when you're finished 

About 200bhp/tonne?

Man

(head gasket on these is done without removing the chain assembly and timing cover).

I really can't picture how this is done. 

How do you remove the head and cams without taking the cam sprockets with it?

Hence I always suggest people with GM ones refurb them, rather than replace with crap.  Its a bit extra work, but cheaper and will last longer.

Is there any easy to spot tell tale that they are original GM? GM logo somewhere?

Perhaps I should have been clearer about the video...

There's too much back round noise to hear what the engine is doing, if anything, when the rpm spikes.

No driving and no radio. Just the rpm and the engine.

And for the third or fourth time, have you tried removing and reseating the cluster?

No I didn't tried.
I created third long video:
https://youtu.be/q-fGX4W9tDQ?si=uDNFD65pVkSo1CJN