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[henryd]

Next time it happens, slap the dash above the cluster and report back

Getting all technical now

[Doctor Gollum]

 

It will prove the fault without ripping the dash apart.

Probably best that he stops first though

[Webby the Bear]

🤣🤣🤣 ok cheers boys 😘😘😘

[Webby the Bear]

Gooooood morning boys. Ok so just got to work. En route the TC light came on.... followed immediately by coolant gauge going in to the red and staying there. I smashed fek out of the dash 🤣 and tapped on the gauges as hard as I dare. No change. Got to work. Left it running. Popped bonnet and top hose hot and fans running so I’m confident it hasn’t actually overheated. I switched car off and straight back on again. Temp goes to a perfect 85 🤣 and no TC light.

It’s got to be gauge issue surely? The only things that come together with TC and coolant is the cluster?

[Doctor Gollum]

Cluster ground fault. Possibly condensation related if it only happens cold...

Get the cluster out and have a look

[Webby the Bear]

Cheers dg 👍👍👍

[Webby the Bear]

So to get the cluster out is it centre air vents out, centre vent housing, three screws and pull it to the left and disconnect connectors?

[dave the builder]

somewhere on here there's a guide,which i copied to a word doc....

"Remove the two centre air vents (I use a couple of butter knives) by levering gently on either end of them to pop them out, some times made easier by pointing the vents fully down.

Remove the two screws exposed once the vents are removed and extract the vent assembly.

Remove the screw securing the left had end of the instrument panel.

Tilt the steering wheel fully down (on non adjustable columns you need to remove the upper steering wheel cowl by removing the screws which can be accessed with the steering wheel in the 9 Oclock and then 3 Oclock positions) and then remove the screw securing the bottom of the instrument panel.

Grasp the left had end of the panel and pull forward, then reach in behind to release the MID/TID/GID/CID connector(s) (the grey type connector has a cam locking system which needs to be release and rotated through 90 degress, the yellow type connector has a black plastic lock which needs to be slid outwards).

The panel then simply pops out."

credit to the original author 

[Webby the Bear]

Spot on. Cheers dtb 😃😃😃👍👍👍

[Webby the Bear]

Ok guys, so after a very busy day working on big L200s 🤦‍♂️🤦‍♂️🤦‍♂️🤦‍♂️🤦‍♂️ I finally got round to getting cluster out. I’ve just had my dinner and I’m now sat down chilling looking over it. I’m no electrical expert so you’ll have to help me out here. The only thing that looks suspicious is a little mark where the green bit looks like it’s disappeared and a small bit of copper can be seen and there’s a little area of what looks like white powder across it. Very small approx. 6mm and is right by this little red cylindrical thing which I’m guessing is maybe an in-line fuse? No idea 🤣🤦‍♂️🤦‍♂️🤦‍♂️

Any ideas 😃😃😃

[Doctor Gollum]

Can you hold it up a bit?

Can't quite see it from here... 

[Webby the Bear]

🤣 pm sent

I’ve found out the thing I’m talking about is a resistor. Apparently 🤷‍♂️

I’ve cleaned the area up and it seems to have restored the connection. Visually anyway. I’ll bang it back in and see what happens I think 😃

[Webby the Bear]

Actually........if I put a multimeter either side of the area that will show me if I have continuity 🤔🤔🤔🤔

[Doctor Gollum]

Have replied via email 

But basically there is a stain in the laminate where the resistor is soldered on and there's also some damage to the ribbon just above it... Looks like the laminate has rubbed through.

Ping the pictures across to BBA or similar and see what they say re repairing it

Otherwise you're after a new cluster, Facelift V6 and ideally a saloon to keep the fuel gauge accurate...

[Webby the Bear]

As ever thanks very much for ur help Al. I’m glad you know what these components are called too 🤣🤣🤣 😃😃😃😃👍👍👍