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[chrisgixer]

Yep.

[05omegav6]

Will pop some sikaflex in the box as well, just in case

[chrisgixer]

How long does it take NOT to remove the dip stick tube.


(Not the dip stick, but the tube the dip stick sits in, just to be overly clear)

Poxy thing.

[Big_Al]

How long does it take NOT to remove the dip stick tube.


(Not the dip stick, but the tube the dip stick sits in, just to be overly clear)

Poxy thing. :

Bad day then Mr. G . . . .       any progress at all on the leak ?

[TheBoy]

How long does it take NOT to remove the dip stick tube.


(Not the dip stick, but the tube the dip stick sits in, just to be overly clear)

Poxy thing.

3 grown men about 5 hours, as a guess

[TheBoy]

Well, apparently the oil level warning is back on the display, so guessing its no better or no worse than before.

Given the amount of yanking, I guess the dipstick to block seal is fine.

What next?


Given that jb and Taxi Al have both suggested oil pump, is this likely?  Given I have zero tools or anywhere to work, is this doable in a field near Newent?

[Kevin Wood]

IIRC it's due a cam belt anyway?

I would suggest removing the cam belt, then pulleys and backplate. That should give you enough visibility of the oil pump to block interface to decide if it's leaking. I suspect the oil pump is sealed to the block with a gasket, so that might be all you need to cure it. Maybe someone with an engine out of the car could comment on what else might need to be removed to get at the oil pump? Crank pulley needs to come off, so the correct tools required there. Maybe the upper sump would have to be dropped?

I assume that the feed from the oil pump goes straight to the oil filter. That means it must pass down an oil gallery in the passenger side of the block, so the output of the pump must pass into the block in that region. That's backed up by the location of the relief valve on the pump, so yes, a possibility that it'd leak there, I'd say.

I had a troublesome coolant leak a couple of years back. It kept emerging forwards from that little channel in the top of the sump pan, just to the passenger side of the block. In the end it was the water pump seal, so leaks from the front do seem to be able to track back down the block and emerge there as if they come from further back.

[TheBoy]

OK, sounds like a plan.  Anyone bringing a V6 cam lock kit to Newent? Its way overdue anyway 

[Entwood]

OK, sounds like a plan.  Anyone bringing a V6 cam lock kit to Newent? Its way overdue anyway 

If I can get mine back from Joff I'll bring it along for you 

[Gaffers]

OK, sounds like a plan.  Anyone bringing a V6 cam lock kit to Newent? Its way overdue anyway 

I'll bring mine

But someone else can do the work, I cant risk it so close to the race

[05omegav6]

IIRC it's due a cam belt anyway?

I would suggest removing the cam belt, then pulleys and backplate. That should give you enough visibility of the oil pump to block interface to decide if it's leaking. I suspect the oil pump is sealed to the block with a gasket, so that might be all you need to cure it. Maybe someone with an engine out of the car could comment on what else might need to be removed to get at the oil pump? Crank pulley needs to come off, so the correct tools required there. Maybe the upper sump would have to be dropped?

I assume that the feed from the oil pump goes straight to the oil filter. That means it must pass down an oil gallery in the passenger side of the block, so the output of the pump must pass into the block in that region. That's backed up by the location of the relief valve on the pump, so yes, a possibility that it'd leak there, I'd say.

I had a troublesome coolant leak a couple of years back. It kept emerging forwards from that little channel in the top of the sump pan, just to the passenger side of the block. In the end it was the water pump seal, so leaks from the front do seem to be able to track back down the block and emerge there as if they come from further back.

No need have to remove the sump retaining bolts from either side of the crank, (and obviously the other oil pump bolts), should pull forward straight off the crank, no need to remove the crank seal either

Only three key points are...

1. Wind the crank splines with tape prior to removing the pump.
2. Be sure to clean and reseal the Oil Pump to Sump mating surfaces carefully and thoroughly.
3. Pay attention to the specific Oil Pump to Block gasket, as they vary, and be sure to apply sealant to the gasket where specified. Between the Book of Blocks and TIS, that should be plain enough.

Don't forget Tea either

[Entwood]

Joff has kindly returned my Cam locking kit .. it will accompany me to Newent... if anyone wants to use it they will be welcome ..

[VXL V6]

I'll try and remember mine as well... And the 30mm spanner!