Print

Please login or register.
1 Hour 1 Day 1 Week 1 Month Forever
Login with username, password and session length

[Shackeng]

http://s1119.photobucket.com/user/Shackeng1/media/ACcompressor004-1.jpg.html I have a slight weep of 'green' from my compressor on the 3.2. It is very slow, as the AC has worked OK since it was last gassed about a year ago, but now it is kaput. The green appears to be coming from the top rear of the compressor, any suggestions as to possible causes?

PS I'm quite proud of myself, its only taken me an hour to get the pic on the site.

[sassanach]

if your really lucky it will be from the dowty seal at the rear of the compressor.if its normal it will be from one or both of the body o rings

[symes]

on top of pump at rear the 2 pipes are joined to 1 mounting flange-the seals are under flange-easy to get at when you remove passenger side engine mount 

[Seth]

PS I'm quite proud of myself, its only taken me an hour to get the pic on the site.

Sorted for ya Shack:



 

[Shackeng]

PS I'm quite proud of myself, its only taken me an hour to get the pic on the site.

Sorted for ya Shack:



 

Cheers Byron. I'll give up on pics, the instructions have changed on how to do it, and it has taken me 5 years to not understand photobucket.

[Shackeng]

if your really lucky it will be from the dowty seal at the rear of the compressor.if its normal it will be from one or both of the body o rings

Is that fairly straightforward to change?

[Shackeng]

on top of pump at rear the 2 pipes are joined to 1 mounting flange-the seals are under flange-easy to get at when you remove passenger side engine mount 

Thanks for that Symes.

[sassanach]

well i hope you are the exception that proves the rule,i have replaced 4 or 5 of these and i haven't seen a leaking dowty seal yet.the compressor itself is a monument to modern,cheap,n,nasty sh+t engineering.

[symes]

if pump is shot-got 1 here mate from one of my 2.5 coffee tables

[Shackeng]

if pump is shot-got 1 here mate from one of my 2.5 coffee tables

As I have no engine hoist, is there a preferred  place to support the engine when the LH mount is removed? And how do I know if it is the pump itself that is shot/leaking? Presumably by a pressure or vacuum test?

[allen25]

I went through this last year on my 2.6. In my case it was a leaking compressor. The evidence was around the centre of the compressor. Yours does look similar but you may have to pull it out of its location to completely check the source of the leak. There was no evidence of dye at the dowty seals on mine.

I did manage to replace mine without removing the engine mount but it is extremely tight and when putting it back you have to get the exact angle. It took a lot of attempts but it did go back in. I needed a second pair of hands to secure the compressor when torqueing the unions and I used new seals. Tricky but doable. Mine is all ok now. Oh and the electrical connector on the new compressor was located slightly offset from the original so a but tight underneath too getting the connector back on. If you end up doing the same, make sure the connection cable is clear of the surrounding frame etc.

Also a good idea to ensure the replacement has compressor oil in it before fitting. I hope it is not your compressor, they cost a few quid new, £260 ish I think I paid.

[Shackeng]

I went through this last year on my 2.6. In my case it was a leaking compressor. The evidence was around the centre of the compressor. Yours does look similar but you may have to pull it out of its location to completely check the source of the leak. There was no evidence of dye at the dowty seals on mine.

I did manage to replace mine without removing the engine mount but it is extremely tight and when putting it back you have to get the exact angle. It took a lot of attempts but it did go back in. I needed a second pair of hands to secure the compressor when torqueing the unions and I used new seals. Tricky but doable. Mine is all ok now. Oh and the electrical connector on the new compressor was located slightly offset from the original so a but tight underneath too getting the connector back on. If you end up doing the same, make sure the connection cable is clear of the surrounding frame etc.

Also a good idea to ensure the replacement has compressor oil in it before fitting. I hope it is not your compressor, they cost a few quid new, £260 ish I think I paid.

Thanks very much for that Allen. Yes I think the leak may be central, so where is it actually coming from, as I can't see a union at the top centre. It also probably makes sense to fit a new one rather than 2nd hand, given the effort to replace it, not to mention the re-gas charges.

[henryd]

Not a bad price from here

http://www.carparts4less.co.uk/cp4l/c/Vauxhall_Omega_2.5_2000/p/car-parts/car-cooling-parts-and-car-heating/air-conditioning1/car-compressor/?232720211&1&ff9efa8cf973c5f4b5a293a0e8b005c03cde6e9b&000077

its actually Europarts but a cheaper listing

[Shackeng]

Not a bad price from here

http://www.carparts4less.co.uk/cp4l/c/Vauxhall_Omega_2.5_2000/p/car-parts/car-cooling-parts-and-car-heating/air-conditioning1/car-compressor/?232720211&1&ff9efa8cf973c5f4b5a293a0e8b005c03cde6e9b&000077

its actually Europarts but a cheaper listing

Thanks for that.
Hmmm, I see they say that the Receiver/drier must also be replaced, I assume that is the condenser radiator. Is that necessary?

[allen25]

Thanks very much for that Allen. Yes I think the leak may be central, so where is it actually coming from, as I can't see a union at the top centre. It also probably makes sense to fit a new one rather than 2nd hand, given the effort to replace it, not to mention the re-gas charges.

As I understand it, there is a seal around the whole circumference/centre/main casing of the compressor, part of the original assembly/design. If the seal fails as in mine, the gas and dye leaks. I didn't dismantle my old unit to look in any more detail, just replaced it. As the seal runs the whole circumference, if it fails, where it fails may be at any point around the unit. You may be seeing dye emitted from the top of the compressor or anywhere around it and naturally the oil/dye will run to the bottom where it is most easily visible.

I suppose the main point is, you'll have to remove it to find out exactly where the leak is? As you have evident dye, it is unlikely to be other parts of the system causing the leak but don't rule it out, have a good look around the system before re-gassing. Reason for saying, my Schrader valve (lp port needed tightening up as well).