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[minifreek]

Once you fit the belt, the camshaft marks dont line up unless you adjust the phase between them by juggling the 3 tensioners. Which is the tricky part...

Isn't that why the cams are locked...? so they don't move once the tensioners/rollers are tightened up...?

[tidla]

The cam wedges stop the cams flipping while the belt is off. Once the belt is fitted, It is then timed using the butterfly tool and the eccentric roller/rollers.

[TheBoy]

Once you fit the belt, the camshaft marks dont line up unless you adjust the phase between them by juggling the 3 tensioners. Which is the tricky part...

Isn't that why the cams are locked...? so they don't move once the tensioners/rollers are tightened up...?

Errr, no.

Obviously, I'd recommend the OOF v6 cambelt DVD for guidance

[chrisgixer]

Once you fit the belt, the camshaft marks dont line up unless you adjust the phase between them by juggling the 3 tensioners. Which is the tricky part...

Isn't that why the cams are locked...? so they don't move once the tensioners/rollers are tightened up...?

Locks are simply to hold the cams still while you fit the new belt. Once fitted and on the correct teeth, the locks are removed. You then have to adjust it with crank locked in position(with the tool you don't have) and the cam timing gauge(which it sounds like you also don't have..?) to adjust it correctly.

It's not like most other belts where the belt is merely swapped and tensioned. Each aspect on the v6 is infinitely adjustable. You need the correct locking kit to do the job accurately. It also saves hours of dicking about.

Btw, FYI.  "Cam belt due" means the cam belt kit needs changing. This includes the rollers and tensioner. Not just the belt, as its the bearings that fail. Not the belt. In case your not aware.

[Andy B]

..... You then have to adjust it with crank locked in position(with the tool you don't have) and the cam timing gauge(which it sounds like you also don't have..?) to adjust it correctly......

he will have tomorrow 

[Gaffers]

The trick is, with the old belt on to then tune it properly so the timing is bang on and then insert the cam wedges.  That way the cams are setup perfectly for the new belt

Not even worth trying without the locking kit and if you have never done one before on this engine the DVD is worth it's weight in gold (and time spent wasted figuring stuff out) 

[andymp]

I did it without the kit, but nezt time I would definitely use a locking kit. As said, the cams have a tendency to spring away from where you need them. The locking kit saves hours of trial and error.

[TheBoy]

I did it without the kit, but nezt time I would definitely use a locking kit. As said, the cams have a tendency to spring away from where you need them. The locking kit saves hours of trial and error.

Its not right then. The chances of getting it right without is tiny. And without the locking/timing kit, you cannot tell how near/far from correct it is.  Worth, if you can get access to a kit, checking it, should only take 30mins of so, maybe another 20mins if it needs adjusting (it will). . Note, the markings on the backplate are not right.


Most engines have a cambelt setup that's either "right" or 1 tooth out (or more than 1, if you've really cocked it up!). The 54 degree GM V6 we have has cams 3/4 infinitely adjustable to the crank (on 2.5/3.0, cams 3/4 are either right or 1 tooth out on 2.6/3.2 with non eccentric idler). Cams 1/2 are infinitely adjustable on all Omega V6 engines.

[chrisgixer]

I did it without the kit, but nezt time I would definitely use a locking kit. As said, the cams have a tendency to spring away from where you need them. The locking kit saves hours of trial and error.

That's exactly where I was in my pre forum days. Did the job without the kit. Those here said its not possible without. This clearly isn't true.

BUT like your good self now, I agree with those here that say it simply isn't possible to do accurately, without the locking kit. AND it saves so much time and dicking about.

Its quicker, safer, and MUCH more accurate with a locking kit.

[TheBoy]

Those here said its not possible without. This clearly isn't true.

To clarify, its possible to replace the cambelt without the locking/timing kit, so that the car will run afterwards without a metallic clatter.

It is not possible to do it right without the timing kit though (unless by a magical stroke of luck), the cam timing *will* be out.

If that makes sense to one and all?

[sjr47]

Thought the OP said his original belt snapped resulting in bendy valves if so timing will be out so he sez he,s fittin new heads so cams will need setting up at TDC I belive although its a bit vague if he knows the procedure to do this also only having the cam locking part of the kit sounds like its from a 2.0/2.2 kit not V6.Good luck buddy  hope you get it purring again 

[minifreek]

The belt didn't snap, the middle/top tensioner let go resulting in the belt skipping and trashing 6 valves on 1 head and 2 on the other..

I have now got fitted 2 x Swindon racing heads from a Vectra challenge car which have been port matched/gas flowed to the 3.0 lower divider perfectly, so I expect gains from this. Also changed the 4 cams to 4 x G cams from a 3.0 litre....

The locking kit I originally used was not for a 2.0 litre but for a V6.... I have now used the 'proper' locking kit, which TBH makes life sooooo much easier, especially when it comes to checking the timing again after setting it up and spinning over a couple of times by hand cranking it...

The engine is now running, a bit lumpy on tickover but Im putting that down to there being no MAF or intake system fitted or other sensors fitted at the moment, but they will all be refitted later on this morning when its finally built back up again... and hopefully it will be purring away like it should do...

I'll tell you what though, I aint doing this again... its taken the best part of a week to get the car back on the road, I couldve done without this... the next time Ill get someone to fit the belt coz its been a PITA doing it... a 4 pot (X20XEV) I can do in an hour start to finish, but a V6 is a different animal....

[Andy B]

......
its taken the best part of a week to get the car back on the road, I couldve done without this... the next time Ill get someone to fit the belt coz its been a PITA doing it... a 4 pot (X20XEV) I can do in an hour start to finish, but a V6 is a different animal....

You need to pull your finger out Matt    I think Mark can do a belt in a couple of ours fom start to finish.

It took me a week end to do my first cam belt ....... a couple of hours at a time due to not being well ...... but once stared had to be finished.

[Gaffers]

I have been doing the V6 belts for about 6 years and I have managed to get it down to about 4 hours.  But that's without any of the snags that can turn up 

[Marks DTM Calib]

V6 belt in four hours!

1.5 hours is about right, 2.5 V6 can be done in an hour if it was done right last time (2.5 is easier access due to not titing with the plenum).

V6 Omega is much easier to do than a 4 pot FWD Vx