Topic: Steering Wheel Wobble (Read 4982 times)

nixoro · « **on:** 23 March 2007, 17:58:40 »

I know my wishbones are in need of replacing but will this cause the steering wobble going from 70 down to 50

I have also noticed my car sort of wobbles as its going along like being in a boat wondering if my front wheels are fubarred as I lent my motor to a mate a while back and since then its not been the best ride.

? him over it but he is pleading it was fine.

Taking it to the garage to get it checked over as it also pulls to the left. finally have some pennies

JasonH · « **Reply #1 on:** 23 March 2007, 18:08:01 »

Definite wishbone problem.

Steering wobble from 70 to 50 (i.e. motorway slip roads) was passenger side rear (vertical) wishbone bush on my car. Very hard to spot without taking the wishbone off.

The wishbone was only 8k miles old too.

TheBoy · « **Reply #2 on:** 23 March 2007, 18:08:34 »

Quote

I know my wishbones are in need of replacing but will this cause the steering wobble going from 70 down to 50

I have also noticed my car sort of wobbles as its going along like being in a boat wondering if my front wheels are fubarred as I lent my motor to a mate a while back and since then its not been the best ride.

? him over it but he is pleading it was fine.

Taking it to the garage to get it checked over as it also pulls to the left. finally have some pennies

depends how shot wishbones are.... ....but certainly possible

nixoro · « **Reply #3 on:** 23 March 2007, 18:31:25 »

Well tomorrow i am taking it to see how bad the tracking/alignment is.

should have done something with it sooner.

I was wondering whether knackered front struts would be causing the side to side motion not unless its just the wind causing it but at the moment it doesn't feel the most stable.

TheBoy · « **Reply #4 on:** 23 March 2007, 18:33:44 »

Quote

Well tomorrow i am taking it to see how bad the tracking/alignment is. should have done something with it sooner.

I was wondering whether knackered front struts would be causing the side to side motion not unless its just the wind causing it but at the moment it doesn't feel the most stable.

I thoroughly recommend WIM, and don't bother wasting money on tracking or 4 wheel alignment.

However, best to fix known issues first...

nixoro · « **Reply #5 on:** 23 March 2007, 18:37:47 »

Quote

Quote
Well tomorrow i am taking it to see how bad the tracking/alignment is. should have done something with it sooner.

I was wondering whether knackered front struts would be causing the side to side motion not unless its just the wind causing it but at the moment it doesn't feel the most stable.
I thoroughly recommend WIM, and don't bother wasting money on tracking or 4 wheel alignment.

However, best to fix known issues first...

Hopefully i can eventually get the finances sorted, what with my job change going to pot thats a plan im working on.

Hopefully work will be kind next week then i'll get some new wishbones.

TheBoy · « **Reply #6 on:** 23 March 2007, 18:40:12 »

WIM prices not that bad. Give Tony a call and speak to him. Mention Omega Owners Club as well

nixoro · « **Reply #7 on:** 23 March 2007, 18:40:28 »

Can anyone give a full price for the geometry at WIM please?

nixoro · « **Reply #8 on:** 23 March 2007, 18:41:03 »

Quote

WIM prices not that bad. Give Tony a call and speak to him. Mention Omega Owners Club as well

Is there a discount for members then?

TheBoy · « **Reply #9 on:** 23 March 2007, 18:48:11 »

it depends how many adjustments need making. Speak to Tony, and yes discount available to some clubs, us included

nixoro · « **Reply #10 on:** 23 March 2007, 18:51:41 »

Quote

it depends how many adjustments need making. Speak to Tony, and yes discount available to some clubs, us included

Result

TheBoy · « **Reply #11 on:** 23 March 2007, 18:56:12 »

pm sent roy

nixoro · « **Reply #12 on:** 23 March 2007, 19:01:08 »

Quote

pm sent roy

pm received

Kevin Wood · « **Reply #13 on:** 23 March 2007, 19:10:45 »

Quote

Well tomorrow i am taking it to see how bad the tracking/alignment is. embarrassed should have done something with it sooner.

Make sure a thorough check is made for duff bushes and the like before you pay for a geometry setup because if you later discover you need to change a wishbone it'll put the geometry out again!

Kevin

nixoro · « **Reply #14 on:** 23 March 2007, 19:19:09 »

Quote

Quote
Well tomorrow i am taking it to see how bad the tracking/alignment is. embarrassed should have done something with it sooner.

Make sure a thorough check is made for duff bushes and the like before you pay for a geometry setup because if you later discover you need to change a wishbone it'll put the geometry out again!

Kevin

Gonna get it checked locally to start with atleast I can take a look myself whilst its up in the air, definately going to get them to check all wishbone bushes.

How can you tell if the steering rods are in need of replacement? think this may also be part of the problem regarding the car stableness.

TheBoy · « **Reply #15 on:** 23 March 2007, 20:14:10 »

Quote

Quote
Quote
Well tomorrow i am taking it to see how bad the tracking/alignment is. embarrassed should have done something with it sooner.

Make sure a thorough check is made for duff bushes and the like before you pay for a geometry setup because if you later discover you need to change a wishbone it'll put the geometry out again!

Kevin

Gonna get it checked locally to start with atleast I can take a look myself whilst its up in the air, definately going to get them to check all wishbone bushes.

How can you tell if the steering rods are in need of replacement? think this may also be part of the problem regarding the car stableness.

Speak to WIM, say you're not sure about bushes, I'm sure he'll stick a lever in and let you check. Ask him if its worth changes bushes before you take it, or if it will be covered by WIM's 2000 mile free check afterwards?

Kevin Wood · « **Reply #16 on:** 23 March 2007, 22:58:24 »

Quote

How can you tell if the steering rods are in need of replacement? think this may also be part of the problem regarding the car stableness.

Generally, get someone to rock the steering just enough to take up any play that can be felt then get underneath and feel for play in any of the joints. If you bridge a joint with your hand you will be able to feel it move as the play is taken up. Don't forget the steering idler on the passenger side.

But if you're taking it to a decent alignment place, they ought to be able to check for any problems first.

Kevin

nixoro · « **Reply #17 on:** 26 March 2007, 11:43:39 »

Quote

Quote
How can you tell if the steering rods are in need of replacement? think this may also be part of the problem regarding the car stableness.

Generally, get someone to rock the steering just enough to take up any play that can be felt then get underneath and feel for play in any of the joints. If you bridge a joint with your hand you will be able to feel it move as the play is taken up. Don't forget the steering idler on the passenger side.

But if you're taking it to a decent alignment place, they ought to be able to check for any problems first.

Kevin

Well I took it to my local Super Tyre Pro's place they told me they do tracking/ 4 wheel alignement and the geometry but shall more than likely go to the recommended eventually

they put it up on the ramps put it up in the air checked the alignment, I was told its 2mm out and they checked pretty much everywhere I asked the checked the steering & suspension.

But they found a fault with the steering, it was the passenger side steering Idler arm has play where the steering centre rod and tracking arm join.

I have been told it will cost about £100 (tbc awaiting call) to fix including re alignment.

I was thinking get the part myself fit and then have them do the alignment or event take it to watford for a full geometry check.

Still shall see what the Super Tyre Pro's have to say price wise as i was told they would order the part direct from Vx.

TheBoy · « **Reply #18 on:** 26 March 2007, 11:57:19 »

Quote

Quote
Well I took it to my local Super Tyre Pro's place they told me they do tracking/ 4 wheel alignement and the geometry
So, which did they do - a 4 wheel alignment or a full geometry? If the later, you should get a full printout, giving the before and after angles....

Kevin Wood · « **Reply #19 on:** 26 March 2007, 11:59:41 »

Sounds like they've found a problem, which may well clear up the steering issues.

As to who to take it to, I think given the choice of taking my car to someone who knows the model of car and is recommended and taking pot luck with a tyre outfit, the choice is easy.

Plenty of tyre outfits have staff who can press the buttons on an alignment rig but don't understand how the numbers relate to the handling of the car - and most of these machines operate with huge tolerances on the parameters too - so if the machine says it's within tolerance the car can still handle cr@p. I'm slightly concerned that they expressed the alignment error in mm as pretty much all geometry parameters are angles with the exception of wheelbase and track differences.

Did they say what parameter was out?

Cheers,

Kevin

nixoro · « **Reply #20 on:** 26 March 2007, 12:18:02 »

Quote

Quote
Quote
Well I took it to my local Super Tyre Pro's place they told me they do tracking/ 4 wheel alignement and the geometry
So, which did they do - a 4 wheel alignment or a full geometry? If the later, you should get a full printout, giving the before and after angles....

Well they had it up in the air and did the 4 wheel alignenment which is how they know its 2mm out, well i say they did they didn't adjust anything as apparently the faulty steering Idler needs doing first.

TheBoy · « **Reply #21 on:** 26 March 2007, 12:19:51 »

Quote

Quote
Quote
Quote
Well I took it to my local Super Tyre Pro's place they told me they do tracking/ 4 wheel alignement and the geometry
So, which did they do - a 4 wheel alignment or a full geometry? If the later, you should get a full printout, giving the before and after angles....

Well they had it up in the air and did the 4 wheel alignenment which is how they know its 2mm out, well i say they did they didn't adjust anything as apparently the faulty steering Idler needs doing first.

Was it just 'rulers' that they hung on rear wheels? If so, purely 4 wheel alignment, not a full geometry check.

nixoro · « **Reply #22 on:** 26 March 2007, 12:30:06 »

Quote

Sounds like they've found a problem, which may well clear up the steering issues.

As to who to take it to, I think given the choice of taking my car to someone who knows the model of car and is recommended and taking pot luck with a tyre outfit, the choice is easy.

Plenty of tyre outfits have staff who can press the buttons on an alignment rig but don't understand how the numbers relate to the handling of the car - and most of these machines operate with huge tolerances on the parameters too - so if the machine says it's within tolerance the car can still handle cr@p. I'm slightly concerned that they expressed the alignment error in mm as pretty much all geometry parameters are angles with the exception of wheelbase and track differences.

Did they say what parameter was out?

Cheers,

Kevin

I'm hoping the steering Idler is the cause of all my troubles

Regards the company I went to I say its just a local tyre place but my car has been going there on and off for the best part of 4yrs.

I actually enquired as to whether they know of WIM in watford and they said they were a partner company not sure if there is any truth to it though. Shall be checking WIM website for confirmation.

nixoro · « **Reply #23 on:** 26 March 2007, 12:32:26 »

Quote

Quote
Quote
Quote
Quote
Well I took it to my local Super Tyre Pro's place they told me they do tracking/ 4 wheel alignement and the geometry
So, which did they do - a 4 wheel alignment or a full geometry? If the later, you should get a full printout, giving the before and after angles....

Well they had it up in the air and did the 4 wheel alignenment which is how they know its 2mm out, well i say they did they didn't adjust anything as apparently the faulty steering Idler needs doing first.

Was it just 'rulers' that they hung on rear wheels? If so, purely 4 wheel alignment, not a full geometry check.

They had some funky laser beam jobby, I think or atleast thats what it looked like

TheBoy · « **Reply #24 on:** 26 March 2007, 12:35:50 »

Quote

Quote
Quote
Quote
Quote
Quote
Well I took it to my local Super Tyre Pro's place they told me they do tracking/ 4 wheel alignement and the geometry
So, which did they do - a 4 wheel alignment or a full geometry? If the later, you should get a full printout, giving the before and after angles....

Well they had it up in the air and did the 4 wheel alignenment which is how they know its 2mm out, well i say they did they didn't adjust anything as apparently the faulty steering Idler needs doing first.

Was it just 'rulers' that they hung on rear wheels? If so, purely 4 wheel alignment, not a full geometry check.

They had some funky laser beam jobby, I think or atleast thats what it looked like
A 'laser' on each wheel, or just at front shining on a gauge at the rear?

nixoro · « **Reply #25 on:** 26 March 2007, 12:37:35 »

Quote

Quote
Quote
Quote
Quote
Quote
Quote
Well I took it to my local Super Tyre Pro's place they told me they do tracking/ 4 wheel alignement and the geometry
So, which did they do - a 4 wheel alignment or a full geometry? If the later, you should get a full printout, giving the before and after angles....

Well they had it up in the air and did the 4 wheel alignenment which is how they know its 2mm out, well i say they did they didn't adjust anything as apparently the faulty steering Idler needs doing first.

Was it just 'rulers' that they hung on rear wheels? If so, purely 4 wheel alignment, not a full geometry check.

They had some funky laser beam jobby, I think or atleast thats what it looked like
A 'laser' on each wheel, or just at front shining on a gauge at the rear?

I think it was a laser on each wheel but cant be 100% sure.

There was I think lasers shining from the rear to the front

nixoro · « **Reply #26 on:** 26 March 2007, 12:51:29 »

Just been on WIM forum looks like STS Tyre Pro's are part of the Franchise but all the same once the Steering Idler Is done I may give it a run to Watford. :-/

If the job is more than £100 to get done would it be worth me doing it myself. :question

TheBoy · « **Reply #27 on:** 26 March 2007, 13:00:08 »

Quote

Just been on WIM forum looks like STS Tyre Pro's are part of the Franchise but all the same once the Steering Idler Is done I may give it a run to Watford. :-/

If the job is more than £100 to get done would it be worth me doing it myself. :question

IIRC, The idler is around £30.

nixoro · « **Reply #28 on:** 26 March 2007, 13:03:18 »

Quote

Quote
Just been on WIM forum looks like STS Tyre Pro's are part of the Franchise but all the same once the Steering Idler Is done I may give it a run to Watford. :-/

If the job is more than £100 to get done would it be worth me doing it myself. :question
IIRC, The idler is around £30.

Is that what it is new from VX only i have been looking on Ebay and can get one for about £35 inc delivery.

This one
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/Vauxhall-Steering-Arm-110mm-Omega-Carlton_W0QQitemZ200091634353QQcategoryZ10404QQcmdZViewItem

So if I was to do it myself I could save myself about £30 - £40 inc getting the alignment done although tempted to go to watford for geometry check :-/

Are the drivers side and passenger side steering arms the same as I know the Drivers side one goes into a mounted box of some sort

Shall see what price they come up with first though.

TheBoy · « **Reply #29 on:** 26 March 2007, 13:15:32 »

Quote

Quote
Quote
Just been on WIM forum looks like STS Tyre Pro's are part of the Franchise but all the same once the Steering Idler Is done I may give it a run to Watford. :-/

If the job is more than £100 to get done would it be worth me doing it myself. :question
IIRC, The idler is around £30.

Is that what it is new from VX only i have been looking on Ebay and can get one for about £35 inc delivery.

This one
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/Vauxhall-Steering-Arm-110mm-Omega-Carlton_W0QQitemZ200091634353QQcategoryZ10404QQcmdZViewItem

So if I was to do it myself I could save myself about £30 - £40 inc getting the alignment done although tempted to go to watford for geometry check :-/

Are the drivers side and passenger side steering arms the same as I know the Drivers side one goes into a mounted box of some sort

Shall see what price they come up with first though.

There is only one idler, and its passenger side.

I'm sure I paid about £30... (well £60, as I had 2 sent so I who have a spare for any future projects)

nixoro · « **Reply #30 on:** 26 March 2007, 13:27:34 »

Quote

Quote
Quote
Quote
Just been on WIM forum looks like STS Tyre Pro's are part of the Franchise but all the same once the Steering Idler Is done I may give it a run to Watford. :-/

If the job is more than £100 to get done would it be worth me doing it myself. :question
IIRC, The idler is around £30.

Is that what it is new from VX only i have been looking on Ebay and can get one for about £35 inc delivery.

This one
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/Vauxhall-Steering-Arm-110mm-Omega-Carlton_W0QQitemZ200091634353QQcategoryZ10404QQcmdZViewItem

So if I was to do it myself I could save myself about £30 - £40 inc getting the alignment done although tempted to go to watford for geometry check :-/

Are the drivers side and passenger side steering arms the same as I know the Drivers side one goes into a mounted box of some sort

Shall see what price they come up with first though.
There is only one idler, and its passenger side.

I'm sure I paid about £30... (well £60, as I had 2 sent so I who have a spare for any future projects)

I'm glad I asked now as I was going to buy two only if I'm going to do the passenger one myself the other would have been for the drivers side, so what do they use for the drivers side or is it a case of a new box with the arm incorporated or something.

TheBoy · « **Reply #31 on:** 26 March 2007, 13:37:28 »

drivers side is the steering box.

nixoro · « **Reply #32 on:** 26 March 2007, 13:44:03 »

Quote

drivers side is the steering box.

Makes sense

ians · « **Reply #33 on:** 27 March 2007, 09:53:09 »

BTW How much are we looking at for a full geometry check at WIM?

Cheers
Ian

TheBoy · « **Reply #34 on:** 27 March 2007, 10:58:57 »

Quote

BTW How much are we looking at for a full geometry check at WIM?

Cheers
Ian

Depends on number of adjustments to be made. Give him a call - you will find him very helpful and friendly, or see his website - http://www.wheels-inmotion.co.uk

nixoro · « **Reply #35 on:** 27 March 2007, 11:28:51 »

I contacted the STS Tyre pro's yesterday and apparently they are struggling to get a price for the part, I was told VX dont stock these anymore which to me sounds a load of Bullshit.

I know I can get the part off ebay so am tempted to go this route and fit it myself.

Does anyone know if this part is in short supply.

I'm going to call them again at lunch time for an update.

If I was to buy and fit the part can anyone confirm what the torque setting will need to be.

TheBoy · « **Reply #36 on:** 27 March 2007, 11:31:39 »

Quote

I contacted the STS Tyre pro's yesterday and apparently they are struggling to get a price for the part, I was told VX dont stock these anymore which to me sounds a load of Bullshit.

I know I can get the part off ebay so am tempted to go this route and fit it myself.

Does anyone know if this part is in short supply.

I'm going to call them again at lunch time for an update.

If I was to buy and fit the part can anyone confirm what the torque setting will need to be.

Not aware of supply issues.

Do a search for torque -it has been covered before recently. 60Nm rings a bell, but you'd need to double check...

nixoro · « **Reply #37 on:** 27 March 2007, 11:36:51 »

Quote

Quote
I contacted the STS Tyre pro's yesterday and apparently they are struggling to get a price for the part, I was told VX dont stock these anymore which to me sounds a load of Bullshit.

I know I can get the part off ebay so am tempted to go this route and fit it myself.

Does anyone know if this part is in short supply.

I'm going to call them again at lunch time for an update.

If I was to buy and fit the part can anyone confirm what the torque setting will need to be.

Not aware of supply issues.

Do a search for torque -it has been covered before recently. 60Nm rings a bell, but you'd need to double check...

Cheers TheBoy I shall have a look, just checked the Haynes finally found the page and it gives a similar setting for all the connecting bolts.

Found the guide by RonaldMcBurger http://www.omegaowners.com/forum/YaBB.pl?num=1158598664
Looks pretty straight forward

TheBoy · « **Reply #38 on:** 27 March 2007, 12:12:12 »

Quote

Quote
Quote
I contacted the STS Tyre pro's yesterday and apparently they are struggling to get a price for the part, I was told VX dont stock these anymore which to me sounds a load of Bullshit.

I know I can get the part off ebay so am tempted to go this route and fit it myself.

Does anyone know if this part is in short supply.

I'm going to call them again at lunch time for an update.

If I was to buy and fit the part can anyone confirm what the torque setting will need to be.

Not aware of supply issues.

Do a search for torque -it has been covered before recently. 60Nm rings a bell, but you'd need to double check...

Cheers TheBoy I shall have a look, just checked the Haynes finally found the page and it gives a similar setting for all the connecting bolts.

Found the guide by RonaldMcBurger http://www.omegaowners.com/forum/YaBB.pl?num=1158598664
Looks pretty straight forward

Easy enough job, easier still with right balljoint splitters...

nixoro · « **Reply #39 on:** 27 March 2007, 12:24:57 »

Quote

Quote
Quote
Quote
I contacted the STS Tyre pro's yesterday and apparently they are struggling to get a price for the part, I was told VX dont stock these anymore which to me sounds a load of Bullshit.

I know I can get the part off ebay so am tempted to go this route and fit it myself.

Does anyone know if this part is in short supply.

I'm going to call them again at lunch time for an update.

If I was to buy and fit the part can anyone confirm what the torque setting will need to be.

Not aware of supply issues.

Do a search for torque -it has been covered before recently. 60Nm rings a bell, but you'd need to double check...

Cheers TheBoy I shall have a look, just checked the Haynes finally found the page and it gives a similar setting for all the connecting bolts.

Found the guide by RonaldMcBurger http://www.omegaowners.com/forum/YaBB.pl?num=1158598664
Looks pretty straight forward
Easy enough job, easier still with right balljoint splitters...

Looks Like the tyre place were struggling to get the part needed from the supplier they use.

So i'm going to give it ago myself I think, just got to order the part through Ebay then fit, the garage have said they are willing to do the 4 wheel alignment and they said if I wanted they would do the Geometry :-/ on that one at the moment.

Im assuming this can be done without balljoint splitters but would be made easier if I had one.

TheBoy · « **Reply #40 on:** 27 March 2007, 13:32:39 »

It will be easier with splitter. Depending how seized on, one may be required anyway. They are cheap.

nixoro · « **Reply #41 on:** 27 March 2007, 16:44:04 »

Quote

It will be easier with splitter. Depending how seized on, one may be required anyway. They are cheap.

Silly question but is the balljoint where the centre tie rod and tracking arm join to the Idler if so this is where it has the movement

TheBoy · « **Reply #42 on:** 27 March 2007, 16:47:38 »

Quote

Quote
It will be easier with splitter. Depending how seized on, one may be required anyway. They are cheap.

Silly question but is the balljoint where the centre tie rod and tracking arm join to the Idler if so this is where it has the movement

The movement is generally the idler to chassis.

The ball joints (it has 2) are where track rod joins, and where centre tie rod joins

nixoro · « **Reply #43 on:** 27 March 2007, 16:58:37 »

Quote

Quote
Quote
It will be easier with splitter. Depending how seized on, one may be required anyway. They are cheap.

Silly question but is the balljoint where the centre tie rod and tracking arm join to the Idler if so this is where it has the movement
The movement is generally the idler to chassis.

The ball joints (it has 2) are where track rod joins, and where centre tie rod joins

Ah Ok got that bit wrong

I shall see about getting a splitter then

Would this do the job:
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/8-Inch-Ball-Joint-Splitter-Drop-Forged_W0QQitemZ150104143042QQcategoryZ30917QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem

Dave-C · « **Reply #44 on:** 27 March 2007, 18:16:07 »

The fork type splittes are OK, the best type are the wind down type, great when you can't swing a hammer, Halfrauds sell one @ <£20, a good bit of kit....

Some might say horses for courses however!
DC

nixoro · « **Reply #45 on:** 28 March 2007, 10:05:29 »

Quote

The fork type splittes are OK, the best type are the wind down type, great when you can't swing a hammer, Halfrauds sell one @ <£20, a good bit of kit....

Some might say horses for courses however!
DC

Cheers for the recommendation I shall do some searching see what i come up with.

Still haven't ordered the idler yet, so not sure I will have it for the weekend.

nixoro · « **Reply #46 on:** 03 April 2007, 08:05:37 »

I have now ordered a new steering idler from the Ebay seller mentioned earlier in the thread ordered on Saturday so just waiting on the part.

Can anyone tell me what the Torqueing procedure is?

Is it done with the wheel off and up in the air or is it done with the wheel on and on the ground so its taking the weight of car.

Hope this makes sense

Marks DTM Calib · « **Reply #47 on:** 03 April 2007, 08:25:51 »

It doesn't matter on the steering idler....

nixoro · « **Reply #48 on:** 03 April 2007, 08:31:09 »

Quote

It doesn't matter on the steering idler....

Cheers Mark

Hopefully the part will be delivered today, so if there when I get home I may give it a go.

x25xe · « **Reply #49 on:** 03 April 2007, 09:01:36 »

For Ball Joint Splitters, take a look here: http://www.machinemart.co.uk/shop/search/filter/ball+joint/page/1

I ordered one yesterday as I have to do this very job myself as a result of an MOT failure. That, coupled with a track rod end and exhaust.

The ones that work with a hammer are not very good IMO - it takes a lot of hammer action before the joint comes apart.

TheBoy · « **Reply #50 on:** 03 April 2007, 09:04:13 »

Quote

For Ball Joint Splitters, take a look here: http://www.machinemart.co.uk/shop/search/filter/ball+joint/page/1

I ordered one yesterday as I have to do this very job myself as a result of an MOT failure. That, coupled with a track rod end and exhaust.

The ones that work with a hammer are not very good IMO - it takes a lot of hammer action before the joint comes apart.

I vaguely recall having to use fork type due to lack of room to get the screw type in...

nixoro · « **Reply #51 on:** 03 April 2007, 10:28:05 »

Quote

Quote
For Ball Joint Splitters, take a look here: http://www.machinemart.co.uk/shop/search/filter/ball+joint/page/1

I ordered one yesterday as I have to do this very job myself as a result of an MOT failure. That, coupled with a track rod end and exhaust.

The ones that work with a hammer are not very good IMO - it takes a lot of hammer action before the joint comes apart.
I vaguely recall having to use fork type due to lack of room to get the screw type in...

Just had a phone call from the misses saying it has arrived yay

pretty quick delivery.

I think I will see about using one of the forked splitters as my dad seems to think he has one, if not its a trip to my local Bennetts as they seem to have them.

nixoro · « **Reply #52 on:** 05 April 2007, 07:58:08 »

Quote

Quote
Quote
For Ball Joint Splitters, take a look here: http://www.machinemart.co.uk/shop/search/filter/ball+joint/page/1

I ordered one yesterday as I have to do this very job myself as a result of an MOT failure. That, coupled with a track rod end and exhaust.

The ones that work with a hammer are not very good IMO - it takes a lot of hammer action before the joint comes apart.
I vaguely recall having to use fork type due to lack of room to get the screw type in...

Just had a phone call from the misses saying it has arrived yay pretty quick delivery.

I think I will see about using one of the forked splitters as my dad seems to think he has one, if not its a trip to my local Bennetts as they seem to have them.

Update

So far the swap is on hold until after work I had a go at swapping the idler last night and it proved to be a right bugger to do.

I started off without a balljoint splitter which was partly my fault and my dads as he said he had one then come to use it couldn't find it.

Anyways i got the car up in the air with the wheel off, nuts came off the idler fine but the balljoint is an absolute bastard to get out.

I ended up getting ferried to my local halfords to get the splitter which was the fork type, these are no use when doing this type of job as the ends are too thick to get under the join to prise the balljoint out and so I am going again to my local halfords to get the smaller jobby which hooks around the balljoint and you wind the bolt in forcing the balljoint out.

Space is also limited under there so in my attempts for the swap i noticed the steering idler mounting bracket when released lower the steering arm giving plenty of room, if had had the right tool it would have been done.

What I found was the fork type splitter is ideal for removing the tracking arms as it goes in the joint where the tracking arm connects onto the centre steering arm.

sounds2k · « **Reply #53 on:** 09 April 2007, 23:58:09 »

the trouble with the fork type splitters is that you end up destroying the joint whilst removing it as it wrecks the rubber boot on the joint ... however, one of the scissor type splitters (as in here)

make the job laughably easy - no clumping a fork-type with a hammer to do the job - and you can re-use the track rod ... have yet to find if it fits the steering idler though.

TheBoy · « **Reply #54 on:** 10 April 2007, 09:51:55 »

Quote

the trouble with the fork type splitters is that you end up destroying the joint whilst removing it as it wrecks the rubber boot on the joint ... however, one of the scissor type splitters (as in here)

make the job laughably easy - no clumping a fork-type with a hammer to do the job - and you can re-use the track rod ... have yet to find if it fits the steering idler though.

I've never found a screw up type one that fits the idler

nixoro · « **Reply #55 on:** 11 April 2007, 11:22:37 »

Well in the end I had to cheat, I had 2 attempts at removing and replacing and bought all 3 types of tool but due to the thickness of them and lack of access I was unable to get the tools in place properly mainly as the plate sections that were supposed to go in between the idler and the steering arm were just 2 thick.

On the other hand i am quite pleased I took it to a garage now as 1 night I used the club hammer with the fork tool and it wouldn't budge the next was using both the wind in bolt jobbies but they like I say were too thick to put in place properly.

Once I found a place that would fit my part they were umming and rrring whether to do it as it was obvious someone had had a go, they put it up in the air and they gave me the biggest shock, when I had the tyres replaced before the company i used never balanced them so no weights were fitted.

Front tyres have some wear on the inside edge but its livable till I can get some new tyres.

Alignment has now been done and with the part I supplied fitted steering is definately more responsive and accurate.

I am now on the look out for some nice wheels before fitting new tyres so shall see what I can find.

Craig_R · « **Reply #56 on:** 11 April 2007, 12:17:50 »

Thats one job on my list the Steering Idle.

Ill wait to see what happens after the MOT on SAT

Glad you got it all sorted sounds like you had a battle getting your old steering idle off.

No Balance weights after having new tires put on there are some total idiots about working everywhere these days Bloody Cowboys

Craig

News:

Author Topic: Steering Wheel Wobble (Read 4982 times)