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Messages - prj

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1
Omega General Help / Re: Omega 2.5TD (non-common rail) rough idle
« on: 08 February 2013, 19:44:16 »
Flexi sorted 90% of the problem.
There is a very light vibration still, felt through the steering, but this is an old school diesel, and I don't think it is out of the ordinary.
If I want it fully vibration free, I think the only thing that will fix that is a new injection pump, but the old one still works just fine and car goes very well after tinkering with the ECU and upping the boost to 1.25 bar :)

But really, now the vibration is like any other diesel.

The main issues were:
1. Lack of flexi on the exhaust and exhaust going into a resonance.
2. Worn out engine mounts.
3. Worn exhaust mounts.

Flexi made the biggest difference. The exhaust has been repaired and welded on in the past, that might also be a contributing factor.

2
Omega General Help / Re: Omega 2.5TD (non-common rail) rough idle
« on: 08 February 2013, 10:22:21 »
Checked timing, 2.5 requested, 2.4-2.6 actual on idle, all is well.
Replaced all the "holders" for the exhaust, no change.

If you put your hand against the car, you can feel no vibration at the front, but as you move back there is more and more vibration.
The problem is definitely the exhaust going into some sort of oscillation. The engine is not really vibrating out of ordinary.

Having flexi fitted today, hoping it'll fix it.

3
Omega General Help / Re: Omega 2.5TD (non-common rail) rough idle
« on: 05 February 2013, 16:58:50 »
What I have done so far:
1. Rebuilt and calibrated all the nozzles.
2. Replaced the lift pump and the fuel filter.
3. Replaced the engine mounts.
4. It is an autobox car, so no DMF here, just the torque converter.

The vibration definitely comes from the engine, and if I go even a little bit above idle it disappears.
The entire exhaust vibrates quite heavily - I wonder if there is supposed to be a flexi on it to reduce vibration. I am going to look at it, and have one fitted if there is none.

I will play with the static injection timing a little, it might be set too early, that will cause a vibration as well, especially at very low revs, but as you give it a bit more, the timing naturally needs to be a bit more advanced and the problem would go away.

4
Car Parts, bits For Sale & Wanted / Wanted: Omega B facelift bits
« on: 24 October 2012, 23:16:38 »
1. Mirrors, or more exactly their housings.
2. The plastic bit behind the steering wheel that is responsible for turning off the blinker signal when you turn your steering wheel to the opposite side.
3. Front right lower door light.
4. Auto gearbox selector switch for 2.5 TD engine (X25DT).

Can pay via PayPal, shipping via signed mail isn't expensive either from the UK :)

5
Omega General Help / Re: Omega 2.5TD (non-common rail) rough idle
« on: 23 October 2012, 23:24:46 »
All the injectors have been rebuilt now.

I am thinking it's either the engine mounts or incorrect timing (and my tool can not for some reason display the measuring blocks on this engine, disconnects right away).

6
Okay, thank you.
I will get the entire fuel delivery checked out.

It would be actually quite logical, if it is drawing in air from somewhere, that it runs bad.
I do have a slight diesel leak around one of the nozzles though, so I think it could be that one as well.

7
Omega General Help / Omega 2.5TD (non-common rail) rough idle
« on: 20 July 2012, 11:14:44 »
I have a problem with rough idle when warm on my Omega.
There are no fault codes stored in the ECU.

The rough idle is best characterized as a strong vibration. It does not hunt at all, there is just strong vibration throughout the car and the engine shakes. Quite sure there is a mechanical problem with the fuel distribution from the pump to one or more cylinders.
Before someone says "that's how diesels work" - no, it used to be fine before :)

Rising the RPM even a tiny bit the problem goes away almost completely, but there is still a feeling that one cylinder is not running quite right.
So it must be an issue with very low injection quantities, as the engine works perfectly when driving.

I am going to take off all the nozzles on Monday and get them checked on a bench, as well as do a compression test, but perhaps someone has experience/cure they can share about this problem.

8
Omega Electrical and Audio Help / Re: Remote key coding
« on: 11 June 2012, 15:29:50 »
Glad to know it did, and thank you again for lending it over quite some distance.

9
Omega Electrical and Audio Help / Re: Remote key coding
« on: 05 June 2012, 12:44:39 »
Actually, thinking about it I'm being a donk. Should be able to swap the board and then then just switch the chips with the info in, I think?

So far no issues, which seems odd. Everything still works. Whatever I did, it seems to have cured it.

Yea, you could probably do that.

10
Omega Electrical and Audio Help / Re: Remote key coding
« on: 28 May 2012, 12:27:57 »
The chip is read-write, yes, but you don't need to do anything with it, except reading it and noting the code.
I don't know if there is a checksum in it or not.

You can always try to change the code and see if it works. If it doesn't, put the old dump back.

11
Omega Electrical and Audio Help / Re: Remote key coding
« on: 22 May 2012, 21:51:20 »


With that out of the way...

First thing to do is to take the unit off of the car. It is on the right side of the car in the cabin, behind a piece of trim next to the passengers (LHD) or drivers (RHD) right foot. It is held by two M10 nuts, you will need a deep socket to get them off.

Disassembly of the unit is fairly straightforward. There are four tabs on the plastic housing. Carefully bend them away one by one (just a bit, easy to break) and slide the two halves open.
A picture of the tabs:


After you got the board out, the chip will be located on the lower right side, by the big round component that is on a 90 degree board next to it.
It's a SOIC-8 93LC46B, this needs to be removed from the board. The entire board is dipped in lacquer. My original board had a light dip, the one TheBoy sent me, had a real heavy dip, which makes it annoying as hell to get it off. Before removing, note the orientation.
Here is a picture of the board with the chip removed:


Then you just stick it into a programmer. If you have a SOIC-8 adapter, well, congratulations.
I did not, so that meant soldering on 6 wires (2 pins are NC on it).
Here is what it looked like in my programmer:


And finally, read the chip.
Here is the original dump from my unit:


And here is the dump from the unit that TheBoy sent me:


Now, TheBoy told me that the security code for that unit is 0296.
As you can see the last two bytes in the dump in hexadecimal are 02 96:


And that actually is the security code right there. Ripe for the picking.
I went to my car, entered the last two bytes out of my unit (0858), and it logged me right in. Mystery solved and key coded.

Thank you TheBoy for sending me the unit. I must add that he did not take any payment for it, not even for the shipping cost.
Walking up to the car and being able to pop the trunk with the button and lock/unlock remotely after all this time feels so damn good...

12
Omega Electrical and Audio Help / Re: Remote key coding
« on: 22 May 2012, 12:45:52 »
I received it today... thank you!

13
Omega Electrical and Audio Help / Re: Remote key coding
« on: 18 May 2012, 21:57:49 »
TheBoy, I don't want to push you around, but do you reckon you can get that unit shipped? :)

14
Omega Electrical and Audio Help / Re: Remote key coding
« on: 16 May 2012, 18:45:28 »
Yea, I have that problem anyway.
But doesn't matter, I think I can open the boot with the key I have, once I get it paired (I got a 3 button spare).
The biggest ball ache really is not having to take the key out of ignition, but the fact that if I want to put something in the boot I have to first get to the car, get in, then press the boot release button, then get out again, because my remote doesn't work :/

You will need the YP ident, than its possible to open the boot with the key in, just hold the boot release button for 3 seconds.
Or modify it with a TIS solution.

Ident release ES ES LT YP

Not too bothered about it tbh, more important to get the remotes working :)
Did you get anywhere with reading the dump?

15
Omega Electrical and Audio Help / Re: Remote key coding
« on: 15 May 2012, 09:53:04 »
prj - just to confirm, it is this bit?

Yup, it's this one.

Quote
Note that the ident may be different, but I think that as long as yours is a facelift saloon, this should work (although you'll have the usual early facelift problem of key out of ignition to open boot).
Yea, I have that problem anyway.
But doesn't matter, I think I can open the boot with the key I have, once I get it paired (I got a 3 button spare).
The biggest ball ache really is not having to take the key out of ignition, but the fact that if I want to put something in the boot I have to first get to the car, get in, then press the boot release button, then get out again, because my remote doesn't work :/

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