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Messages - johnnydog

Pages: [1] 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 ... 35
1
Omega General Help / Re: Which windscreen ?
« on: 18 September 2018, 22:36:11 »
When I had mine done a few years ago, as said earlier, I insisted on a genuine Vauxhall screen, genuine rubbers (the top and sides are one, and the lower base trim above the scuttle). Vauxhall used their own independent windscreen firm whom I guess was used to Vauxhall screens (as well as other franchises he fitted for). The result was a correctly positioned screen, so that when the rubbers were clipped into the plastic retainer around the screen, the rubbers were a nice snug fit (didn't stand up at both top corners). And they remained in place at motorway speeds.
I paid the bill, and then claimed it all back less my excess from the insurance.
You obviously have to get them to OK it before you go ahead, otherwise they may decline to pay...
Plus it was a lot cheaper (about half the cost) buying my own screen and rubbers from Vauxhall plus their 50 fitting fee, than the figure initially quoted by Autoglass had it not been covered by insurance.
I know what I would be doing in your position.

2
Omega General Help / Re: Rusty wheel arch
« on: 18 September 2018, 22:21:54 »
Always thought[still do]that the Triumph 2000/2500 made a great looking estate car :y

Again personal preferences, but I prefer the saloon - never took to the estate. However if someone offered me a solid PI estate, then it would difficult (for me anyway) to say no. Especially if it was a Mk1 as there was only 371 (or very close to that figure) made due to its short production run before the Mk2 was introduced, and the ones known to be remaining can be counted on more or less both hands.

3
Omega General Help / Re: Rusty wheel arch
« on: 18 September 2018, 13:55:54 »
But old Triumphs and the like are simple machines which are very suitable for the Sunday morning mechanic to tinker with.

One model I am referring to is the 2.5PI - the first mass produced saloon with fuel injection. Being mechanical (rather than controlled electronically as in modern cars) it was prone to horrendous fuel condition and poor running issues; all these were largely down to a lack of knowledge on its operation. Even I remember BL garages being unable to correctly set up the fuel injection system, as it had to be all done by hand, and even BL garages had no idea! This resulted in the fuel injection system being removed and reverting to carbs, or the cars being prematurely scrapped.
Today, these issues have largely been overcome, and there are specialists who have ironed out all the niggles, but the numbers now with the system is relatively low, and a good PI now is one of the most sought after models of the range, commanding good prices. You still have to be enthusiastic to own and run / maintain one dispite the specialists out there.
But isn't this the case with the Omega - you have to be enthusiastic to own and run one, and be prepared for higher maintenance costs to keep a good one on the road. The rarer / higher spec models that are deemed to be thirsty and possibly more difficult to maintain are the cars that most Omega enthusiasts want; these models will increase in value relatively if maintained well.
Owners fall into two basic categories, the one that wants a cheap run about maintained on a shoestring, and the one that cherishes his car, values it for what it is and maintains it regardless of cost.
This is exactly the same scenario I experienced 30 - 35 years ago when I was messing about / driving, and repairing / scrapping Triumphs.
Those who love their Omega will look after it and ensure that it lasts as long as possible, and those are disinterested in them will eventually move onto another make for cheap motoring when it costs too much in their eyes to continue running it.
Time will no doubt tell.

4
Omega General Help / Re: Rusty wheel arch
« on: 18 September 2018, 10:02:04 »
I have owned several different 1960's and 70's Triumphs over the years since 1980. I have ended up with three prestiine unmolested examples; one I bought in 1988, another in 1998 and the last one in 2006. In the late 80's into the 90's they were for peanuts - they had got to rock bottom value wise and the not as good examples were being scrapped for parts. High fuel consumption and the cost of rust repairs was their demise. You had to be a real enthusiast for that particular model to own and run one. Good examples even then were getting harder to find, although they could be bought for relatively sensible money.
Move on 20 years, where they are all well over 40 years old, and the likelihood of finding that original, low mileage, 'never been welded' Triumph is virtually impossible, and their value has increased dramatically.
Move the case over to the Omega - it is exactly the same scenario but in a time period 30 years later.
There was relatively more of my models of the Triumph on the road in their day than the Omega of yesterday and today, so maybe the day when good examples of top spec Omegas increase in value may come sooner.
As always though, desirability, parts availability (original and remanufactured) and as we are seeing currently government 'interference', all play a big part in any cars future.

5
Omega General Help / Re: O/s brake oscillation/fluctuation
« on: 15 September 2018, 10:12:02 »
Unusual though that the two affected brakes are both on the offside.
When the car is parked, is it the offside that gets the weather / rain?
Could be that the offside discs have more corrosion (usually unseen on the inner face), which is causing the problem.
Can it be felt through the pedal whilst gentle braking?

6
Omega Gallery / Re: Tourer "facelift"
« on: 13 September 2018, 17:24:30 »
Is that an Austin A40 and a Standard 10?  Very nice :y :y

7
Omega General Help / Re: Rusty wheel arch
« on: 12 September 2018, 12:48:37 »
Rubbing down to bare metal is a must if there are any defects under the paint. Rust doesn't always appear just as rusty coloured metal, if there are black deep rooted spots in the metal, they need removing prior to any work, so that the surface is totally spotless and pure metal in appearance with no marks (I don't mean scour marks).
The area where you filled will no doubt have rust under it - rust will lift filler eventually but that is why it hasn't shown through as yet. Have you ever seen a panel that looks ok paint wise, but has areas that have lifted? That is rust under filler. Rust under original paint as you know appears initially as small brown marks. If rust has been previously painted over, then it appears more like blisters that you can pop!
Remember that if you cut out the rusty section of wheelarch to what appears good clean metal, invariably it will have rust behind the clean metal too. Cut out as far as you can relative to the condition of the back of the metal you are removing. After any repairs, metal or filler, I would always try to inject some sort of wax rust protection (not underseal) / converter to the rear of the panel which will help to delay rust reappearing, but creates fire hazards later if a welding torch gets near it.
Always try to get a top coat on once the primer is dry. Primer alone is porous so doesn't give any protection to the metal underneath, as it is only intended to give good adhesion for the top coat.

8
Omega General Help / Re: badges
« on: 11 September 2018, 18:37:45 »
When I had a tailgate sprayed after a repair under the wiper, I felt the thinnest badge tape I could get was even too thick as the letters need to be firm on the panel - thick tape makes the letters 'wobbly ' if that makes sense.
The old tape ideally needs removing first.
However I decided that it wasn't worth the effort - I bought new Vauxhall and Omega 3.2 V6 badges. The benefit of new ones is that they have a card template which is the correct size to allow the edges to be lined up with the edges of the panel for correct positioning. Badges in the wrong position or slanted bug me!
Unfortunately, both the 'Omega 3.2 V6' and 'Omega 2.6 V6' are now no longer available from Vauxhall.

9
General Car Chat / Re: Impact Wrench
« on: 09 September 2018, 12:30:23 »
Having used cordless tools regularly, heavy drain tools such as this, or cordless circular saws and angle grinders etc, really need 4 or 5 ah batteries. 2 ah will work ok, but you need two or three so that one is always charging whilst you're working, otherwise you will run of of battery power. Cordless drills or impact drivers seem to be ok with 2 ah in my experience but I would still have at least two available whilst using them.

10
General Car Chat / Re: Some rental car
« on: 09 September 2018, 10:29:18 »
Woman who lives opposite me has an 8yr old Audi TT. However they said they'd let her have a Mercedes instead-which they have-and now she's running about in an 18 plate Mercedes S class 350d :D

When a kind sole ran into the side of my wife's Honda on a roundabout (he entered from a slip road without giving way), her insurance company started getting arsey. Her renewal was due so they loaded her renewal premium as they hadn't as then been paid out by the third parties insurance, although they had accepted responsibility. They also knocked her full NCB down, saying any excess premium for the renewal would be refunded at next renewal, which was no good if she didn't want to renew with them. They also wanted her to go to one of their designated repair shops, but I wanted it to go to one that work send company vehicles to and always did a superb job.
As a result, we cancelled the claim with the insurance and the renewal then went back to the original figure, but the accident was then dealt with by an accident management company, who got the job done very quickly, but provided her with a courtesy car - a new Range Rover Evoque! :D The repair took three weeks (and was done go a very high standard, in my opinion, especially for a  95k / 6 year old vehicle).
There was obviously a subsequent dispute with the third parties insurance about the footing the bill for the repair plus the rental car cost, and my wife ended up being asked to go to County Court to justify why she had a need for such a courtesy car. She declined stating they had provided it, and it turned out that the management company were asking 350 day  :o  vehicle hire costs alone from the third parties insurance!
It was obviously resolved one way or another without my wife's involvement, but it shows why management companies are a joke and spank the arse out of claims, with fancy courtesy cars as well, both of which results in enivitably higher premiums for you and me.
Plus she keeps going now how she would like a Range Rover Evoque .......  ::)

11
Omega General Help / Re: Odd Power steering? noise
« on: 08 September 2018, 15:21:12 »
If the fluid has been low and then topped up, turning lock to lock bleeds the system, so air bubbles wouldn't be any thing to worry about.

12
Omega General Help / Re: Sticky switches!
« on: 08 September 2018, 13:57:52 »
As said in the other topic, any upholstery cleaner will clean the switches of any recent sticky residue directly as a result of sweaty, dirty or greasy fingers, but once the surface coating of the switches deteriorates and becomes excessively tacky / sticky, no amount of cleaners or solvents will remove it. It seems this is cause by age and general exposure to daylight or sun as they are coated with a soft plastic / rubbery like finish to improve their feel or texture. This wouldnt occur to plain hard plastic switches. At this point, nothing really can restore the switches; however the coating of the door handles can be removed with care which improves the appearance as there are no symbols as on the switches to worry about.

13
Omega General Help / Re: Sticky switches!
« on: 06 September 2018, 23:54:38 »
This topic was discussed recently.
Hope this helps.
http://www.omegaowners.com/forum/index.php?topic=143303.0

14
Omega General Help / Re: Which windscreen ?
« on: 05 September 2018, 23:48:43 »
This was the replacement non heat reflecting screen fitted to my 2001 3.2 Elite, which was identical to the original screen in it from new -

90457721   161030 WINDSCREEN,LAMINATED,TINTED (IDENT GM) (EXC.HEAT REFLECTIVE WINDSCREEN) (EXCEPT RAIN SENSOR)

This is the 'non blue haze' windscreen as fitted to pre rain sensor cars including the Elite described above as 'EXC.HEAT REFLECTIVE WINDSCREEN'.

The parts lists aren't the easiest to follow but if you don't want a blue mirror / reflective finish on your replacement windscreen when viewed from outside, then this is the one to fit.

15
Omega General Help / Re: Which windscreen ?
« on: 05 September 2018, 22:34:35 »
When I had to replace the windscreen on my 2001 3.2 Elite, I didn't want Autoglass doing it (bad previous experiences...) and Vauxhall told me there were two windscreens for Omegas whether fitted with rain sensors or not - heat absorbing and a heat reflecting. I understand the heat reflecting has a blueish haze to it when viewed from outside the car, and it looks like diesel on a wet road (if that makes sense) which wasn't the same as the original one. I bought my own heat absorbing pre rain sensor windscreen from Vauxhall, part no. 90457721, and it was correct for the car. It had the standard slight 'sun strip' at the top, and the rest looked like normal clear glass. It was fitted at Vauxhall using new VX  rubbers. The insurance then refunded me the cost of the job.
I have since bought a 2003 3.2 Elite for parts which has had a replacement screen in the past, and it has a distinctively reflective blue mirror like appearance across the whole screen from the outside. Just doesn't look right at all.
For what its worth on rain sensor cars, the heat reflecting screens (with the blue reflective haze) is part no. 24433002 whilst the clear heat absorbing screen (which the majority of cars have) is part no 24433003. 

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