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Messages - mandula

Pages: [1] 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 ... 10
1
Omega General Help / Re: Oil leak from top of engine on 2.2 doc Omega
« on: 11 September 2018, 05:58:24 »
Did you let sealant to dry properly before startup? I believe if sealant still "wet" it let oil go through and leave passage when it finally dry.

I did mine with black sealant all over gasket because cover was slightly deformed (over tightened too many times) causing gasket to leak.
I let it dry over three hours (engine still slightly warm), as I did some other service same time. Thousands of kilometers past and no leaks anywhere.

2
Omega General Help / Re: Creaking steering column bearing
« on: 04 September 2018, 19:25:52 »
I had creaking sound that I though was coming from top mount. I could hear that inside cabin engine running when rotating steering wheel.

I took wheel off trying to find something from top mount, but it was ball joint. Rubber was ruptured allowing water and stuff in the joint. It was couple years old ball joint, so really wasnt expecting that..

3
Omega General Help / Re: Fuel hose size inside fuel tank
« on: 04 September 2018, 11:01:45 »
Found a hose that can handle immersing inside ethanol/any fuel:

Cohline type 2190 - ID7,3/OD13,5 max 10bar

I think that will do the trick  :)

4
Omega General Help / Re: Fuel hose size inside fuel tank
« on: 04 September 2018, 10:24:47 »
Thanks  :y

5
Omega General Help / Fuel hose size inside fuel tank
« on: 04 September 2018, 08:19:00 »
Hi,

I'm upgrading my Omega to be used also with ethanol mixture.
I've already installed the kit (https://eflexfuel.com/en) and approved it at MOT. Government will also give me 200 e support so all together it was 190e + 1 hour own work to get it working.

Kilometer counter just went over 330 000 km, so will in advance replace fuel pump and also want to replace hoses inside tank to stuff that wont become brittle if I have only E85 in the tank.

So, does anybody have information what size of hose should I get inside the fuel tank?

6
Omega General Help / Re: Both wipers very slow
« on: 25 July 2018, 06:36:18 »
When they start to slow down and eventually not move it is the linkage and the axles that mount the wiper arms that are dried out. There is no way to lubricate those axles. They are closed units.

Only way is to find a new linkage unit at the scrap yard and replace it. The motor is usually OK and need not to be replaced. Be sure that the linkage is moving properly when you get it. Once I got one from the scrap yard (mail ordered) that was even more stuck than the one I had on the car. They sent me another one with out charge.

Umm, how I then managed to diassemble those axles from mountings, clean them, lubricate them and reassemble them and now my wipers move faster than ever?

7
Omega General Help / Re: Both wipers very slow
« on: 23 July 2018, 07:32:17 »
I had similar problem. Wipers were very slow and hardly got back to start position. Eventually wiper stopped working completely.

I removed wiper assembly and noticed that centermost wiper shaft was stuck in its frame. I had to use heat and hammer to get it out.

Used some sandpaper to remove rust/oxidation (shaft was steel and frame some aluminium alloy), cleaned all moving parts and lubricated and replaced two O-rings at shaft ends.
I used general lubrication grease that is used in working machines etc.. Spray grease wont last long IMO.

Now wipers move faster than I have ever seen.

Took about 1.5 hours, never done it before and removing stuck shaft (without breaking it) was hardest part. Worth to take it apart and inspect.

8
Omega General Help / Re: Alarming clonking noise offside front
« on: 12 July 2018, 13:40:07 »
To rule drop links and anti-roll bar bushings out, just detach either one drop link and see if clonk noise is still there. If it's not, you have faulty drop link(s) and/or anti-roll bar bushing(s).

9
Omega General Help / Re: Cam belt tensioner question
« on: 25 June 2018, 06:35:22 »
I had same kind of issue when I did mine.

I did as you did, after turning by hand and running the engine couple of seconds, tensioner was on the loose side about 5 mm.
Then I set up everything all again and re-checked tensioner after turning by hand and running engine couple of seconds and now tensioner remained on the NEW mark.

Haven't checked tensioner since, but it is now past 45 000 km so I assume everything is still fine.

10
Omega General Help / Re: Noisy differential?
« on: 21 June 2018, 08:26:32 »
How to remove this noise?
Oil change didn't fix it, all tooth surfaces are smooth and no big particles found from magnet.

https://www.youtube.com/embed/w7rt17n7A44

11
Omega Electrical and Audio Help / Re: Air con clutch
« on: 31 May 2018, 11:00:28 »
You can test compressor and fans by taking cap off from relay K60 (green 5ft from the left) and pushing contacts together when engine is running.
This should make fans to run and compressor clutch to operate if wirings and compressor clutch is okay.

12
Omega General Help / Re: Another Air Con question
« on: 30 May 2018, 17:34:05 »
Yea, as stated above your post I noticed there was almost none stuff in the system.

I was confident that I could trust the live parameter reading of A/C pressure. I was wrong. But now atleast I know better how my A/C system works  8)

13
Omega General Help / Re: Another Air Con question
« on: 30 May 2018, 14:31:34 »
Ok, almost none PUFF when pressed valve. To the service it is then  :(

Next time I test that method first and dont trust any stupid false nonsense readings that applications give..

14
Omega General Help / Re: Another Air Con question
« on: 30 May 2018, 14:17:09 »
It really is 1000 kPa, it sure might be 100 kPa so it might be normal surrounding pressure.

I read somewhere that there is some analog pressure sensor that gives pressure reading in voltages to ECU or what ever is controlling A/C system?


Well, I made some testings and took hats off from relays K60 and K87 under bonnet. Car was running.

When I pressed contacts on relay K87, both fans switched ON.
When I pressed contacts on relay K60, both fans switched ON and compressor engaged.

So I believe all wirings are OK.

I believe now I have about three options left and one extra option:

1. Pressure too high (I don't really believe so because A/C worked fine for one day).
2. Pressure too low.
3. Pressure sensor/switch defected.
(4. take it to the service  :'()

Maybe next I'll connect OBD-reader again and check if pressing pressure valve gives me any PUFF and if so, does that affect the reading I see on live parameters..

15
Omega General Help / Re: Another Air Con question
« on: 30 May 2018, 13:29:10 »
My A/C has also stopped working.

After winter when hot day I noticed lack of cold air coming from nozzles and compressor did not engaged.
I took it to A/C service where they refilled the system and after that A/C worked fine (cold air coming and compressor engaged), until the next day it did not work again. No cold air and compressor does not engage.

I viewed live parameters with OBD-tester via phone application and it said there is A/C-pressure of 1000 kPa (~10 bar).
I could also test A/C-relay (I don't know which relay) from this application and it made fan to start up at engine bay .
I've measured that compressor magnetic clutch resistance is OK 4.3 ohm.
Fuses are OK.

I assume there is no leak because of A/C-pressure reading says there is pressure (does that pressure reading sound about right?).
Is there a way to force engage compressors clutch from relay box, to check there is no open circuit on wirings?
What else could I check before I go back to A/C-service for troubleshooting and giving away my money?

I don't know are these related, but just after A/C-service car's Check control informed me about "Check oil level". There was oil enough and that message keeps coming and going randomly many times a day.

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