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Messages - grifter

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1
Omega Gallery / Re: Omega 24v Work in Progress
« on: 10 May 2020, 21:28:13 »
Could've sworn I'd updated this not long ago, apparently not. Well not really that much done, and it doesn't want to for much. I don't use it through Winter, and my daily rounaround is a cavalier, plus I have a few other projects on the go.

Recently manged to get some stuff done though that was well overdue. The fuel tank metal cover plate was rotten and threatening to leak very soon, so that got changed. The other bit of work threatening to catch me out one day, was the sump leak and oil change so desperateley needed.

I decided to take off the sump, give it a good clean up, and paint, then try and fix the leak in the upper sump. I tried to clean iit out and seal along where it was leaking but it still leaked. I then gave it another blast with brake cleaner, thoroughly cleaned along where it is sealed, fearing I'm going to have to take this off to fix, then sealed it again and left it for 2 days to dry.

Result, this fixed the upper sump leak, so only other job that is calling is the gearbox fluid change. I'm going to try and get a long plastic flexi pipe and feed the oil in from upstairs, using a nozzle filter, rather than try and faff about with bottles and hoses underneath it.

Now to find the proper pipe!

2
General Car Chat / Re: Brake Bleeding Question
« on: 29 April 2020, 12:11:11 »
I'm not sure if I've understood this correctly.

If you replace a part like a caliper. Bleed as you normally would, either 2 person manual job or a 1 person pressure bleed. Once you are happy the air has gone. Make sure your brake fluid level is on max and pump the pedal to force the pads out to the discs. Re-check level and you're done.

I somehow suspect I'm missing something here?
This.  ;)

Clamp the flexi hose as near the joint disturbed as possible and remove/replace the component. Then bleed as normal...  :y

Just remember that the caliper will take some bleeding due to the volume of air being expelled.

Also, if you didn't clamp the flexi, front or rear dependent on which caliper, then you'll be bleeding the entire system then finding a garage/someone with Tech 2 to bleed the ABS block as well... In this case the car WILL NOT be driveable until this is done.

Why would you need tech2 to bleed the system?

3
General Car Chat / Re: Brake Bleeding Question
« on: 29 April 2020, 12:10:04 »
I'm not sure if I've understood this correctly.

If you replace a part like a caliper. Bleed as you normally would, either 2 person manual job or a 1 person pressure bleed. Once you are happy the air has gone. Make sure your brake fluid level is on max and pump the pedal to force the pads out to the discs. Re-check level and you're done.

I somehow suspect I'm missing something here?

If you've pushed the pistons back in,they don't move back in with those one man bleeders, you have to have an assistant pressure the system from the pedal to force them out. If you're on your own you can't do that. I have however just read in car mechanics mag you can get a one way valve bleeder that lets you bleed from the pedal.

https://www.lasertools.co.uk/product/7700


4
General Car Chat / Brake Bleeding Question
« on: 29 April 2020, 11:31:14 »
If your system is otherwise fine and you want to change the fluid, a one man bleeder seems to do a fine job, however if you replace a part like a caliper or rear piston, you then need to actually bleed the brakes i.e. until the piston comes back into contact with the disc or drum. Obviously the new part will be set back into it's recess, or placed at a standard position, and it needs to be forced out till it meets the contact surface of the disc/drum etc.

Is there a tool that lets you actually do this job one-man as at the moment you can only bleed the fluid through the new part, using air-pressure on a one-man bleed kit, but not actually push the piston/cylinder back to the contact surface of the pad/disc.



5
Omega General Help / Re: 2.6 Oil Sump - gasket or not?
« on: 28 April 2020, 12:57:08 »
Hozelok if you're feeling flush...

Otherwise any generic garden weed sprayer should do :y

Should be mention of it in the guide...

Straight to B&Q then and wait in the socially distanced queue!

6
Omega General Help / Re: 2.6 Oil Sump - gasket or not?
« on: 28 April 2020, 12:25:16 »
Any recommendations for the oil filler pump to use when filling gearbox, going to acquire one?

7
Omega General Help / Re: 2.6 Oil Sump - gasket or not?
« on: 25 April 2020, 13:41:13 »
Loandbehold the leak on top sump is now cured, no need to strip it all off.

8
That's the plan, I spoke to some guys on the welding forum and they've said shouldn't be too big a job, but am going to get sparky to install it, so he should have a good idea what I need.

9
Hi

I've just recently acquired a spot welder 230v rating but need to plug into a fused isolator. My garage has a standard cable from mains consumer unit in house, with a small fuse box in the garage, with 2 fuses. Can an isolator be wired on to the existing supply to the garage or will it need to come from the house CU?

Thanks

G

10
Omega General Help / Re: 2.6 Oil Sump - gasket or not?
« on: 02 April 2020, 18:02:00 »
It's in Haynes ;)

Waste of time doing that to the upper seal.

Better off lifting the engine six inches and resealing it properly as per the lower sump... Although, it's not my car ;D

I would love to do it right given I had more time, it's not a terrible leak, just a sweat. Mainly wanted to get sump off, clean it out, fix dent, paint it and check the pick up, which was spotless.

Don't have haynes for omega so will just have to go with low teens NM.

11
Omega General Help / Re: 2.6 Oil Sump - gasket or not?
« on: 02 April 2020, 17:29:28 »
Yes defo no gasket, i've just removed it, also slid a bit of sealer up the side of the upper pan where it seems to be leaking, cleaned it all out, sprayed some brake cleaner to remove deposits and applied sealer, the proper stuff.

Also anyone know the torque settings for the sump, imagining around low teens 15nm or similar?

12
Omega General Help / 2.6 Oil Sump - gasket or not?
« on: 02 April 2020, 11:43:05 »
I've read there is no gasket for the sump on the 2.6 so got the appropriate sealer -  93165267. Having a look at diagram this morning it certainly looks like there is a gasket, for the bottom pan and the top plate as well? Can anyone confirm as I want to take both the sump and the upper plate off to seal as I have leak. Diagram here shows gasket no 17 for top, and 26 for bottom pan.

https://opel.7zap.com/en/car/v94/e/4/25-0/


13
General Car Chat / Re: Autobahnstormers
« on: 18 March 2020, 08:12:38 »
The forum seems dead now, where's everyone went?

14
Omega General Help / Re: Cannot open bonnet
« on: 20 November 2019, 08:26:10 »
If you've no one to help, lift corner of bonnet above headlight then jam something in like a small screwdriver just to hold pressure upwards, then it should pop.

15
Omega General Help / Re: Brakes crap again
« on: 28 September 2019, 15:36:51 »
Don't use copper slip on them  it is an antiseize rather than a lubricant.
Ideally, you need a heat resistant lubricant for the sliders due to the heat that can be generated ftom the brakes. I personally apply a very light smear of a CV joint grease on the slider pins before reassembly - works perfectly for me when overhauling this type of caliper.

Wouldn't ever use copperslip on moving part. If I've not got CV grease to hand just use normal grease.

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