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Messages - addy

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Thanks I will watch for the seals, when removing the block. While the radiator is out, would it make sense to flush the coolant system. and if so would using the top radiator hose to do it work? Then when everything is back together would the coolant system need a concentrated mix for the first filling, then mixed for the final top up, as in the coolant flush how to in the maintenance section?

Sorry for all the questions, just want to make sure I get everything before I start and do it right first time.

Thanks for the quick reply. will order the radiator, got the hose clamp tool ordered. Do I need the seals on the cooler pipe to block, or are the old ones useable?

Thanks for the reply Dr Gollum. Sorry to sound like an idiot(not hard for me :D), but when you say keep transmission cooler vertical is that where the block is where the two metal pipes go, that looks like a small radiator, and will it come out as part of the radiator? What are the connections that you say need to be ignored? (New radiator will almost certainly include an in built cooler. Ignore these connections)

Sorry for all the questions.

Hi Alinco Blue not sure what to say about ebay, I have had this happen before on other things. I think you are correct though that, it is the one that fits, found an old post and Dr Gollum mentioned this rad, saying he had used it on Omegas so good enough for me both of you saying it will work. I have been out and did a pressure test, which showed the leak is there on passenger side, at the top where the mount attaches for the bolt, it was coming out reasonably fast. The pressure test idea in the maintenance is great. I made up the cap as per the instructions, then used a tyre compressor with digital settings, pumped it upto 12psi and could see the leak. I looked at the aircon removal in maintenance, but the radiator layout looks different to mine. The two metal pipes on mine that come over the top of the radiator then meet at a block, are they the gearbox oil coolant pipes? If I remove them, I assume there will be a O ring or something similar inside. Is it best to replace or can they be reused, also is there anything that needs to be done to gearbox after putting it all back together, such as bleeding or filling up with fluid?

Here is a picture of my rad layout. Looks identical to the ebay one. Small pipe passenger side goes to the pump you can see on that side.

Thanks to all for the help.

Hi Alinco Blue

Here is what it said to me.

Thanks for all the replies. Hopefully can sort it.

Thanks everyone for the replies. I think everyone who said leaking radiator, might be right.  I decided to remove the centre panel over the radiator (now got to get another one as had to break it, due to rust screw heads). When I looked on the passenger side, at the top where the plastic is that holds the back radiator to the front one it had a slightly wet part, and down the side of the radiator was a trail of what looked like old coolant. I am hoping to do a pressure test, to confirm it.

Will this radiator fit my 2002 2.6 Automatic with Air Conditioning, when I did compatability check it said no? If not is there one that will work?

The area circled is where it looks like it is leaking.

Also is there a easy way to remove the radiator, cannot find a how to in the maintenance section.

Thanks again for all the help.

Thanks for all the replies, I will stick with the blue coolant seen as that is what was in it.  I checked the level of fluid last night and it was still on the full mark, after 3 days. The wife drove it last night and today and said no there were no problems, and the coolant warning didn't come on. I went to go out in it and the coolant warning was back on, when I checked the level it was just below the white dome thing inside the coolant tank, would this just be the car finding its proper level, now it has had a good drive? There is no water under the car, where it has been parked, also listened for anything that sounded like water escaping under pressure and nothing.

The coolant is still the same as it was before, no oil in it. And no water on the dipstick.

Thought it might be red, will wait for a bit longer to see if the coolant loss, was just air in system. If it was just that will get coolant changed.


Doctor Gollum. I thank you for your suggestion. I did as you said about bleeding it. When the fan kicked in it dumped loads of coolant out along with loads of air. But still the level had dropped the next day. So I did it again this time, I used a funnel in the neck of the coolant tank and filled it until I could just see it inside the neck of the funnel, then squashed the radiator hoses while the car was running, with the heater settings as you said. The amount of air still in there was amazing, it took three goes to get it all out and nearly 3ltrs of new coolant, and waiting for the fan to keep kicking in and keeping the level topped up all fun. I have checked the level for the last two days and it is on the full mark, also the radiator pipes cannot be crushed so easy like they were before the burping.  The heater in the car is really hot aswell. If the level stays ok for a while, then I am going to flush the system, as the coolant didn't look 100% the person who had it before me had used Blue, the car was built in 2001 but registered in 2002, so would it use red or blue?

Thank you, to all of you who replied.

Thank you to everyone, who has replied. I now know where to look and what side to start from.


Hi Chazza12
Was your break inside the actual loom part under the rubber cover going from the boot lid, to inside the car? If it was how did you manage to track it down?

TheBoy, sorry not sure. It is a 1995 model, where the door lock fob is seperate to the key, with 2 buttons if that is of any help?

Here's a strange one for everyone. Maybe someone might be able to answer it for me? The Central locking fuse on the wifes 1995 CD Estate keeps blowing randomly, it works for a couple of days then just blows the fuse. The central locking doesn't seem stiff locking and unlocking no problem. A while ago it had the lazy locking symptom on the drivers door, but after spraying the locks and motor with lubricant (it was the none sticky type), it worked OK and still seems to be, it just keeps blowing the fuse, random now. My thought is that even though the locking motor is working, it is on its way out so causing a overload. does this sound reasonable? Other people have suggested maybe the heating element is shorting, as it is on the same fuse. The heated seats haven't been on due to the hot weather, so would the fuse still blow if they are not on? What wires to the drivers and passenger seat do I have to disconnect to see if it stops blowing the fuse? The lights flash when pressing the fob, just doesn't lock, check fuse and it's blown. It has the correct rated fuse.

All help is appreciated.

I uprated the wifes 95 2ltr, to the later front brake setup. Not that hard, carrier, caliper and new discs. Make a difference, she thinks that her omega is a ferrari. LOL

General Discussion Area / Re: how to do CPR nsfw
« on: 29 June 2018, 18:43:36 »

No will try that thank you.

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