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Messages - R-vin

Pages: [1] 2 3
1
Omega General Help / Re: Omega A Digital Pannel code 156.
« on: 13 March 2015, 01:37:03 »
hey ,
thanks for the insight,  another member sent to my email manuals for the digital instrument pannel, though in german (opel), i was able to identify the code 156 as an oil pressure fault, with this knowledge, while driving i observe the red triangle (pointing downwards) next to the oil pressure reading flashing, when it stops flashing the red F next to the speed read out illuminates... when the red F goes out, the red triangle starts back flashing..... 

is this a sign that the oil level sensor could be faulty? or is there a fault with the oil pressure sensor? or could be a problem in the harness? 

about the auto transmission, it is a GM 4L30e... i guess that is the AR25/AR35....
i removed the harness connected to it, first visual has the insulation removed from 1 wire that was tee off ....
testing all the wires, i created my own diagram of the pins and conections, taking apart the harness, i did not find any faults apart from the missing insulation (possibly as a result of accident at some time)
the wire in question missing the insulation comes from pin K on the 10 pin connector, goes to the pin D on the 5 pin connector from the adapter case and to pin C on the main body connector (4 pin)...

so far i drove the car after the repair, once it locked the transmission in the fail safe, i did the usual, switch off and restart and it has been fine since... i retreived the codes, getting  12, 33, 65, 84.....

i think the code 84 could be brake switch volts low......  my brake lights function.... another problem in the harness?????
possibly when i remove the transmission pans, i can inspect the internal harness for cause of the codes 33 and 65 (both i expect to be in the adapter case)...

thanks for the attention...
cheers
R-vin

2
Omega General Help / Re: Omega A Digital Pannel code 156.
« on: 07 March 2015, 12:29:51 »
hey carl,
i`m currenty located in Rio de Janeiro , Brazil, this is where the chevrolet suprema (carlton estate) is... here the omegas (Omega A) were sold from 1993 to 1998, and we currently suffer due to lack of replacement parts and manuals / repair procedures /diagnosis processes.
if you are willing to post the various trouble codes and their meanings would mean a lot to us here, there was formed an "omega club" which started off as one helping the other to get the car running again.... so far we have discovered some things such as retreiving the engine trouble codes, transmission trouble codes, digital instrument pannel trouble codes.. however we find few information on their meanings ...

any info possible will be of great assistance, if you are willing to send any info, my email is 

arvineharry@hotmail.com

thanks very much
R-vin


3
Omega General Help / Re: Omega A Digital Pannel code 156.
« on: 06 March 2015, 00:47:29 »
hey carl,
thanks for the insight, if it is oil pressure fault, can this be why the red F illuminates sometimes in the region next to the speed read out?
i know there is a level sensor on the side of the oil pan, and a pressure sensor at the side of the crank pulley... i have some oil seep from the front engine seal, can this affect the triggering of this code 156? or is it a bigger problem...  i suspect this car was in a wreck, a big one at that since i see welding in some areas that should not have and the harness in various areas on the left side of the car has what can be described as impact damage....and probably repaired and the car put back on the road..

also i keep getting code 33 and 65 from the transmission computer... trans oil temp sensor and force motor solenoid.... both high or battery voltage  as if the return signal wire shorts out and in the sender receives the battery voltage....

and again i have impact damage on the harness going to the transmission.... 

as soon as i get the opportunity, i`ll remove the harness and go thru it completely... messy and will need lots of insulating tape to put it back together... dont think a new harness is available for this car (1993) and if so, i bet would be expensive..

thanks again

R-vin

4
Omega General Help / Re: Omega A Digital Pannel code 156.
« on: 01 March 2015, 23:56:18 »
hi,
searching thru the forum, i came across a post with the guy having the same code 156 from his digital pannel, however there were no replies to it, i do not have membership to totalcarlton, so i'm back to this form...

thanks

R-vin

5
Omega General Help / Omega A Digital Pannel code 156.
« on: 01 March 2015, 20:49:40 »
hi,
i have a 1993 Chevrolet Suprema 3.0 Automatic,  Brazil manufactured Vauxhall Carlton estate.

i am investigating trouble codes in the car,
Using the 10 pin ALDL connector, bridging A to B, the check engine light flashes code 12 then 31...for me this is normal without engine running.
Bridging A to C, the transmission sport mode light flashes 12 then 33 then 65,
Bridging A to D, the Digital instrument pannel vehicle speed indicator shows 12 flashing 3 times then 156.

does any one have a table showing the various codes for the different systems for this car?

regards
R-vin

6
Omega General Help / DTC code 250
« on: 27 February 2015, 14:25:18 »
hi guys,
i had removed the 6 pin injection relay (as a theft deterrent) and forgot to reinstall it, i tried to start the car and then realised that it was missing, installed it and tried to start again, this time the battery contact was bad and i just got the click from the starter and the digital instrument pannel blanked out, cleaned the battery terminals and no more problem, drove normally for some time then the Transmission sport mode light started flashing, i restarted the engine and it was normal again. One thing i did also while stopped, i checked the CTS voltage to ensure the sensor was sending the correct signal (i`ve been having fuel consumption issues), with the engine running, the connector was unplugged, to my surprise the engine raced off on its own and settled back to idle, the check engine light came on and when i reconnected the CTS connector, the check engine light went off. I have an "My Naff Code Reader" diagnostic (16 pin) with a 10 pin ALDL adapter cable, i checked the engine codes and got codes 15 followed by 250, the transmission had no DTC`s.


Can any one offer some support in what this code 250 is?

thanks guys
R-vin

7
hey guys,
i`d like to thank all of you for rallying to my needs, i finally got the engine revving right!!!!!, the distributor needed turning about 10 anti-clockwise, as soon as i can get some pictures posted, every one can see how to properly time a C30NE engine,
basically the flat side of the distributor (where has the recess for the tab of the distributor cap to enter) should be positioned " square" to the engine, or simply rotate it till this is closest to the cylinder head.
i`m thinking that the timing was adjusted by someone, particularly when the thermostat housing started leaking to probably stop the engine from boiling the water (no pressureised system).

cheers guys

8
hi guys,
i have a C30NE engine (12V) and i would like to clarify the correct timing of this engine, should the crank rotation sensor should line up with the region of the crank pully (that has the gear like notches) where it is missing a notch, ie a space where there should have been 2 notches/ teeth, and #1 piston at TDC and the distributor rotor has a notch on the tip of the rotor should line up with a notch on the distributor housing in the region of #1 cylinder spark plug wire.

currently the crank rotation sensor lines up with the crank pully (region that misses a notch) when the distributor rotor points to # 5 cylinder spark plug wire...  the engine starts and runs (easy for a Motronic 1.5 system that pulses the injectors in banks: 1+2+3 together then 4+5+6 together and the coil sends the spark respective of engine RPM which the rotor directs to the appropriate spark plug... when revved, it revvs well, but when held at a constant revv above idle, there is a serious missfire problem with rather frequent exhaust backfires,  the oxygen sensor signal fluctuates from 0.18V to 0.89 V, the engine idles smoothly, spark plugs were checked for spark (injectors unclipped, plugs put onto plug wires and the engine cranked), plugs cleaned with carb cleaner and gap set to 0.035" and reinstalled), fuel pressure was not checked (awaiting delivery of a fuel pressure testing kit), though has battery voltage at the pump +ve terminal

does any one have access to a workshop manual on setting the timing correctly???

regards
R-vin

hey guys, i made a mistake (was with the significant other while checking this, i should have gotten out from below the car to check for my self) when i said that the crank pully notch was on # 5 cylinder, re checked it this morning, with assistance of an experienced mechanic...  the notch on the CPS wheel/crank pully lines up with the #3 spark plug with #1 cylinder not at TDC,
i went below again while the mechanic checked the proper TDC position of #1 cylinder...  he showed me that the rotor groove in the middle does not line up with the notch on the distributor housing....  in clockwise rotation, the notch on the distributor housing was infront of the rotor notch, actually futher ahead than the rotor tip.....
i have a new question, can the distributor be rotated on the engine, or will i have to remove it and try to engage it to the crank shaft in the correct position....

Ω 4 Life
R-vin
`To retime the distributor you remove the clamp bolt, pull the distributor body(with the cap removed) off the engine, this diisengaging the drive gear, then put it back where you choose. The ECU adjusts the timing, but if the rotor arm does not coincide with a pick up contact over the entire range of ECU timing adjustment you will get misfiring. It's all in Haynes somewhere.

The state of distributor cap and leads is critical for good starting and running. I used to carry a spare cap and leads and change the lot if it misbehaved.

hey, being a new owner to this particular car, i soon realised the lack of maintenance, started by changing the spark plug wires (after getting a nice jolt from #5), then the distributor cap and rotor, then got new plugs in, cleaned the injectors (which were in a terrible state... the plastic cover/seal retainer were broken or missing altogether, luckily i got an injector repair kit>>two actually since were for 4 cyl, which has the new seals, the plastic washer and a new plastic tips), checked the O2 sensor for proper function (appears non functional untill the engine warms up then fluctuates between 0.08V to 0.98V, left to idle would stay lean, throttle snap and it would go rich then lean off and start cycling rich-lean-rich-lean), but the problem was recurring, this is the point i compression tested the engine both cold and hot, 170-180psi across the block, idle vacuum test for valve sealing issues saw low manifold vacuum where the gauge showed leak at intake manifold, used a lot of carb cleaner spray looking for this leak and nothing, this is when i decided to go back to basics and check the engine timing...
i just made an adjustment to the distributor position (not sure how to send a foto in this post), the engine seems to be much better, though did not get enough time to let it warm up (thermostat 92C open)... will be heading out soon, will see how it works.

cheers guys
R-vin

9
Arvine, you have e-mail  :y

thanks buddy,

cheers
R-vin

10
My last Senator died because the crankshaft position sensor toothed wheel was drifting. The previous owner had the cam belt chain changed. The cambelt chain bottom sprocket shares a long woodruff key with the CPS wheel, and the CPS sprocket is on the very end. Some how the CPS wheel was not firmly locked to the crankshaft, so the timing slowly drifted. It took me months to locate the fault, then I could not get off the locating nut. I scrapped the car.

I do not think there is any adjustment available to you. However, the timing could be wrong if the woodruff key is not engaged with the CPS wheel.

I still have a Haynes manual for the Carlton/Senator if it's any use to you.

I had a buddy that experienced a similar problem with the woodruff key, we did a bit of MaCgyver on the car... drilled into the keway a bit with a bit just bigger than the key, then hammered in the shank end of the drill bit and grinded off the excess.... worked till the head gasket blew and he changed the engine..

about the manual, i currently reside in brasil, what cost would i incur for purchase and shipping to brasil? 

not too long ago i purchased a china clone of an Opel sacnner and a 10pin to 16pin adapter cable, took over 3 1/2 months to get to my door (brasil customs).... just saying, this is pretty normal here, and after the long wait, the scanner could not communicate with my car... from internet searches, found the procedure for checking engine codes and the auto tranny codes.... still could not find for the ABS system (though 1 manual specified bridging A to K in the ALDL connector, unfortunately my car does not have pins E, J and K.)

will be looking into this woodruff key some time soon... hopefully this is not the case...

regards
R-vin

11
If you can wait until tonight I'll scan in the relevant pages of the Haynes manual as apdf document and e-mail then to you :y

hey, thanks a lot buddy, i always got time.... to have my Ω running gr8 , there is always time...

Ω 4 Life
R-vin

12
Unfortunately the Omega B doesn't use a straight 6 like your Omega A (called a Carlton over here) ......

I'll try to dig my Carlton/Senator Haynes manual out for you,  ;)

much appreciated,  my email is  arvineharry@hotmail.com 

Ω 4 Life
R-vin

13
hi guys,
i have a C30NE engine (12V) and i would like to clarify the correct timing of this engine, should the crank rotation sensor should line up with the region of the crank pully (that has the gear like notches) where it is missing a notch, ie a space where there should have been 2 notches/ teeth, and #1 piston at TDC and the distributor rotor has a notch on the tip of the rotor should line up with a notch on the distributor housing in the region of #1 cylinder spark plug wire.

currently the crank rotation sensor lines up with the crank pully (region that misses a notch) when the distributor rotor points to # 5 cylinder spark plug wire...  the engine starts and runs (easy for a Motronic 1.5 system that pulses the injectors in banks: 1+2+3 together then 4+5+6 together and the coil sends the spark respective of engine RPM which the rotor directs to the appropriate spark plug... when revved, it revvs well, but when held at a constant revv above idle, there is a serious missfire problem with rather frequent exhaust backfires,  the oxygen sensor signal fluctuates from 0.18V to 0.89 V, the engine idles smoothly, spark plugs were checked for spark (injectors unclipped, plugs put onto plug wires and the engine cranked), plugs cleaned with carb cleaner and gap set to 0.035" and reinstalled), fuel pressure was not checked (awaiting delivery of a fuel pressure testing kit), though has battery voltage at the pump +ve terminal

does any one have access to a workshop manual on setting the timing correctly???

regards
R-vin

hey guys, i made a mistake (was with the significant other while checking this, i should have gotten out from below the car to check for my self) when i said that the crank pully notch was on # 5 cylinder, re checked it this morning, with assistance of an experienced mechanic...  the notch on the CPS wheel/crank pully lines up with the #3 spark plug with #1 cylinder not at TDC,
i went below again while the mechanic checked the proper TDC position of #1 cylinder...  he showed me that the rotor groove in the middle does not line up with the notch on the distributor housing....  in clockwise rotation, the notch on the distributor housing was infront of the rotor notch, actually futher ahead than the rotor tip.....
i have a new question, can the distributor be rotated on the engine, or will i have to remove it and try to engage it to the crank shaft in the correct position....

Ω 4 Life
R-vin

14
Unfortunately the Omega B doesn't use a straight 6 like your Omega A (called a Carlton over here) ......

I'll try to dig my Carlton/Senator Haynes manual out for you,  ;)

much appreciated.... any tech support/ experience/ "try this" is always welcome...

Ω 4 Life
R-vin

15
try vodc site or total carlton site.  :y

hey, checking the totalcarlton site did mention about the engine timing, however it referred to a member for details, unfortunately totalcarlton rejected my application for membership, hence contacting this member is not an option... does any one have membership? can send a technical request for me?

my engine has #1 TDC and the distributor rotor pointing toward #1 spark plug wire (and the notch on the distributor body lines up), will confirm if it is on the compression stroke thou... and what i would like to confirm is the correct position of the crank pulley >> the reluctor ring (teethed ring), should the part missing a tooth line up with the crank rotation sensor??? if so mine probably is 180 out, being BOSCH Motronic 1.5 that pulses the injectors in banks, the simplest fix would be to interchange the injector banks??? if so i can make up a piggy back injector harness (splice the injector wires and add extensions and connectors to reach the correct injectors)....

Ω 4 life
R-vin

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