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Topics - johnnydog

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If you need to justify to your other half why you need to keep your Omega, read this interesting article by the Daily Express, but only if you have a V6 version apparently - the a 3.2 Elite preferably....

General Car Chat / Renault Trafic brake problem - any ideas?
« on: 05 May 2017, 16:28:10 »
My son has a 2008 Renault Trafic 2 2.0 DCI 115 van, which has developed a strange brake problem. These are the symptoms as he has described them.
He left work, and said he felt the brakes seemed to be binding slightly. Joined the motorway, and after approx five miles, said the brakes were binding so much that he had to drop down a couple of gears to keep moving. Came off at the next exit (approx. 5 miles from joining), and the brakes were smoking. Stopped and then tried to set off, but the brakes were binding so much that it was difficult to even pull away. He said there was smoke coming from all four wheels, but excessively from the front nearside.
When I went to the van later that day, it had cooled down, and the brakes had released, although extremely spongy, presumably due to the brake fluid having boiled, they worked ok.
An examination revealed that the there had obviously been tremendous heat at the fns wheel - the dust seals on the caliper pistons had melted, the bottom balljoint boot had melted, the front nearside pad material had parted company with the backing plate, and had left a heavy deposit of fraction pad material on the disc face. The plastic hub cap had even melted around the wheel bolts! The disc itself looked like it had been red hot as it was a red colour (not rust) around the edge.
As smoke was coming from all wheels, but excessively from the fns, I assume it isn't just a fault with one caliper sticking, especially as they released when cold.
A diagnostic check revealed the following codes - PO571 Brake Signal, P 2299 Accelerator pedal position sensor circuit, ABS 95 ECU supply voltage too low.
It obviously needs new pads; I will be changing the front flexi hoses, the bottom ball joint, fitting new seals etc to the caliper (or a good known used unit).
I wondered whether there was a fault with the master cylinder, or servo that may cause the binding brakes?
Would a 'brake signal' fault cause these issues, or is it more related to the brake lights?
He also threw in that that the brakes were binding slightly several weeks ago, but nothing like this instance, and when he came back to it two or three hours later, they had released and have been alright up until this last instance.
Any ideas or thoughts would be greatly appreciated!!

Omega General Help / Removal of boot release button / switch
« on: 25 September 2016, 09:36:58 »
I have noticed that the boot release button on the central console on my 3.2 saloon has gone very 'sticky'. I have read this is quite common when the rubberised finish deteriorates. Cleaning it has no effect at all.
How do you remove the switch - does it involve taking the NCDC radio out first?
Better still, can the cover (the bit that has gone sticky) be removed and replaced if I can get a better one from a breaker? I have removed the ashtray, and with a mirror can see one (of probably two) yellow lugs by the cover that I assume need releasing.
Haven't asked as yet, but anyone know if the complete switch (or cover) is still available from VX?

Omega Electrical and Audio Help / Phillips CCR 2006 radio oddity
« on: 22 September 2016, 20:50:56 »
My 2003 2.6 Elite has the Phillips CCR 2006 fitted. Over the last few weeks, when I start the car, and it had previously had the radio mode selected, it starts playing the CD's of its own accord. I can press the tuner button and it changes to the radio, but if I switch off and leave the car, when I return and start the car, it 'defaults' back to the CD's.
It's the original radio for the car from new.
Any thoughts?

General Discussion Area / Caravan awning size
« on: 02 June 2016, 19:48:26 »
Just looking for a bit of advise from OOFERS with caravans......
I am wanting to buy a used awning for my caravan. The caravan manufacturers state the awning size from ground to ground round the awning channel for my caravan is 800cm.
The awnings I am interested in go up in 25cm increments i.e. size 6 is 775-800 cm, and size 7 is 800-825cm.
Question is, do I go for the smaller size or do I go for the bigger size as both cover the 800cm size I require? Has anyone any experience of this aspect buying the most suitable awning?
I have spoken to several caravan dealers who have given mixed info, none of which convinced me as to which to go for.
Any info would be much appreciated.

Omega General Help / Saloon self levelling shockers
« on: 31 March 2016, 12:49:10 »
Have noticed this previously, but whilst doing a job under the car today, it reminded me to ask....
Why on a saloon with self levelling shockers, is the head of the offside lower mounting bolt shrouded in a strong cupped washer, when the nearside is just a thinner slightly dished washer?
The shocks are the same and not handed, and the mounting point on the hub assembly is the same.
Any thoughts...more intrigued than anything else..

Omega General Help / Pollen filter - which way up?
« on: 11 March 2016, 19:36:36 »

Just had a bit of a mental blank  :D......just removed the carbon pollen filter to renew it. It was fitted with the air flow arrows pointing upwards towards the windscreen. Can anyone confirm this is the correct way for the air flow?

Although I recently asked this in conjunction with a relevant but different topic, no one come up with any answer, so I thought I'd put in a topic of its own.....
I know they are not available new anymore, but Vauxhall list 2.6 and 3.2 cats with different part numbers, although aftermarket such as those made by cats2u and BM cats list them with the same part number.
I know the after market list some parts as 'one fits all' for all models, whereas VX may have various part numbers, but does anyone know the actual difference between the VX 2.6 and 3.2, and has anyone had experience of fitting 2.6 cats to a 3.2 without issues?

Omega General Help / Elite boot spoiler - recommended adhesives to use
« on: 20 September 2015, 16:37:51 »
I have got a replacement boot lip spoiler to replace a damaged one on an Elite saloon. Getting it off the donor boot lid (which was corroded) wasn't easy, but managed it successfully without damage. Had the new boot lid and replacement spoiler sprayed and are ready to fit, but anyone any experience of which is the best adhesive to use? Are any better than others for easy excess adhesive removal, minor adjustment before going off etc etc?
Any other tips welcomed.
Thanks in advance!

Whilst changing my heater fan speed controller, tucked up by the wiring harness running by the heater ducting to the passenger side vent, I found a black multipin block connector (with a swivel locking mechanism). It has the following coloured wiring to it - red, black, grey/yellow, 2 brown, and black and blue taped together going into a single black sleeve (giving the impression further up the wiring that it is a single thick black wire).  It runs across towards the centre console and disappears behind the climate control buttons area.
The car is a 2002 3.2 Elite saloon.
Any ideas what it might be for? Wondered whether it may be for a telematics system in the glove box (although this car doesn't have it fitted).
I took some pics but can't figure out how to attach them to this post!!

On my 2003 3.2 Elite estate, with a NCDC 2013 unit and GID, the language has changed to German! I have tried to change it back to English, but am struggling. I can't find any specific reference to it in the audio manual.
Does anyone know why it does it, and the procedure to change it back to English?

 I have a 2002 3.2 Elite saloon, which is for breaking. It has an NCDC 2015, with telematics in the glovebox and a CID. I asked my local VX tech about de-pairing the unit from the vehicle in order that I could fit it, or at least the CID, at some point to another Elite, but he hadn't a clue about how to do it. Is it done with a Tech 2? Any info on the procedure would be greatly appreciated, so I can possibly pass it on to him.

On my 2003 3.2 Elite estate, the dipped beam is far too high. I keep getting flashed at, and I have also parked up on a straight section of road at night, and checked the dipped beam from an approaching vehicles point of view and they are dazzling.
I have changed the front level sensor on the f/n/s wishbone, which made no difference at all. I am not getting any messages on the display.
Whether it's just coincidence, this problem has only started since the gearbox was removed, overhauled and replaced, hence the reason I changed the front level sensor thinking that it may have been knocked or damaged during the gearbox removal.
Any thoughts would be greatly appreciated, as I can't used the vehicle when it's dark!!!

Omega General Help / Help in diagnosing EML fault codes!
« on: 26 September 2013, 01:34:49 »
On my 51 reg 3.2 Elite, the EML illuminated on the motorway, but the actual running of the car hasn't been affected. It has done 101k.
My local VX dealer kindly plugged in the Tech2 with the following faults codes -

P150 (9)
o2 slow response
Bank 2 Sensor 1
Bank 2 Sensor 2 (x2)

The codes were cancelled, but the light came back on after about 10 miles and I have noticed the odd 'wiff' of fuel from outside the car.

I am assuming that Sensor 1 is the front o2 sensor / Lamda sensor on Bank 2 and is the likely culprit.
Is it possible that this faulty o2 sensor is causing the codes being thrown up for Bank 2 Sensor 2.
Incidentally, I have read the very informative fuel trim / cat efficiency topic with great interest.
Could anyone explain what the code P150 (9) refers to, and also which is Bank 2 ?!!!! Nearside or offside of the car???

Would replacing the front o2 sensor be the first thing to do to possibly cure it? I have also read somewhere that the recommended interval for changing the front o2 sensors is 100k?

Thanks in advance,

Omega Electrical and Audio Help / NCDC2013 or 2015
« on: 21 February 2013, 15:33:36 »
I have read all the posts as best as I can about problems with the NCDC2013, but was looking towards those with more knowledge than me for suggestions.....
I currently have a 2003 3.2 Elite estate with a NCDC2013 and GID fitted. It spits the sat nav disc out within a few seconds with the message 'insert disc with printed side up'. It has worked intermitantly, and whilst working everything seems to do what it should.
I have also got a 2013 and GID which I took out a scrap car, which weren't depaired, but I have the car pass for them. I haven't been able to test them.
I also have a 2002 3.2 Elite saloon, with a NCDC2015 unit with CID in it which is working great, with telematics (which I'm not too bothered about as I haven't got a sim card for it) and I am quite impressed with it!. I bought this car for parts originally, but overall it seems too goood to scrap. I don't have a car pass with this car, but I'm sure I could get one from VX.
The question is -
1 -  can the fault be repaired cost effectively, or
2 - could I simply replace the unit and GID with the paired ones from the scrap car as I have both the car passes for the scrap car and the recieving car,
3 - assuming that I do scrap the 3.2 saloon, could I replace the defective units with the NCDC2015 and CID without any further wiring issues as I'm not interested in the telematics at this time?     
 - Would I need the the units depairing prior to removal?
 - Would I actually need the car pass from the donor car to fit them - i.e. for any radio code?? 
I know a techy at VX who would help me out with any tech2 adjustments.

I know this may have been covered before, but I'm not the best at understanding car electrics, so some positive suggestions would definately be appreciated!!

Many thanks,

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