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Topics - addy

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Here's a strange one for everyone. Maybe someone might be able to answer it for me? The Central locking fuse on the wifes 1995 CD Estate keeps blowing randomly, it works for a couple of days then just blows the fuse. The central locking doesn't seem stiff locking and unlocking no problem. A while ago it had the lazy locking symptom on the drivers door, but after spraying the locks and motor with lubricant (it was the none sticky type), it worked OK and still seems to be, it just keeps blowing the fuse, random now. My thought is that even though the locking motor is working, it is on its way out so causing a overload. does this sound reasonable? Other people have suggested maybe the heating element is shorting, as it is on the same fuse. The heated seats haven't been on due to the hot weather, so would the fuse still blow if they are not on? What wires to the drivers and passenger seat do I have to disconnect to see if it stops blowing the fuse? The lights flash when pressing the fob, just doesn't lock, check fuse and it's blown. It has the correct rated fuse.

All help is appreciated.

It probably has already been answered on here but I cann't find it. So here goes, I have a 02 2.6 that seems to lose coolant from the coolant tank so you can see the top of the thing inside the tank, after standing for nearly a week enough to put on the coolant low warning. After putting the ignition on without starting the car, pressing the brake to remove the check message, it is replaced by the coolant warning one.  I have looked for physical signs both inside the car up under the dash, in the footwells near the HBV as best I can using my hand to check for leaks. Smelt the coolant in the coolant tank for petrol smell nothing, just had a oil change and no water contaminants in it. No oil contaminants in the coolant. The car doesn't overheat and stays at normal temperature, also heater works on hot and cold no problem. I have looked underneath the coolant tank incase it is leaking from underneath, but nothing can be seen. No white or steam coming from the exhaust when the engine is running.

I know when the car is turned off there is no vacuum, so would the HBV be allowed to leak, because of no Vacuum going to it(if that makes sense)? There is no sign of escaping water from it, when the car is running.

Thanks for any replies. I do have a HBV to replace it, I just thought I would ask more knowledgeable people.

Omega General Help / Part 90467543
« on: 05 June 2018, 20:26:19 »
I was wandering, I know Vauxhall don't sell this part anymore, but searching on Google it came up with the same part for Saab. Has anyone tried local Saab dealer to see if it is the same part and if it is available for sale?  I read on the old forum pages about someone suggested using a rubber O ring in its place, has anyone tried it and if so does it work, if it does what size O ring is needed?

Omega General Help / Oil filter conversion Part Number
« on: 01 May 2018, 10:16:28 »
Can someone tell me if this is the correct part, for the conversion from paper cartridge to normal oil filter.  This is the part number VAUXHALL FITTING - 90144360, this is the part I was told fits and is a direct replacement for the 90412159 by vauxhallpartsuk-ltd? I have also looked for the seal between the housing and engine block and cannot find it, as was told no longer sold.
I have a 2002 2.6, with the paper cartridge but after all the stories about the body turning and other stories, when trying to undo the top and not knowing the full history of my car, I was thinking of converting to screw on filter, while doing a oil change.

Link to part:

Thanks in advance for all help.

Hi wander if anyone can help. I went out today and when I went up a steep hill (Gleniffer Braes, Average grade: roughly 7 %), near to me. The car was fine untill I got about half way up, then the oil light flickered dimly. So I turned round and nursed it slowly down, when back on level ground it still flickered dimly every now and then. Switched it off and left it for around 3/4 hours, started it and drove home slowly watching for the light. It didn't come back on. I then had to move it slightly from where it was parked, Oil and all other lights went out and stayed off. Now waiting for a while to check the oil level, even though no warning came up for it. Could it have been that with the incline and maybe the oil being hot from the climb and  low but not enough for the warning to come up on the display, going slightly to the back of the sump causing it? The temperature gauge only rose a little bit from where it is normal, then came back down to normal and stayed there when driving down and back home.

Any suggestions will be gratefull. I hope it is simply due to the climb and it isn't something drastic.  Don't seem to be having much luck with FL models, always had PFL and had no where as much trouble.


General Car Chat / Does anyone do body panels anymore?
« on: 11 April 2018, 13:41:42 »
I have been looking online for body panels, such as full sills for Omegas. I cannot seem to find any. Does no body do Aftermarket ones for them? I can find body panels for older make vauxhalls. It just seems a bit crazy, considering the places that the were exported to.

Omega General Help / Part to change over to screw on oil filter
« on: 04 April 2018, 17:27:43 »
I am looking to convert my 2002 2.6 to screw on filter. After trying different places, for the threaded part PN 90412159. Vauxhall Superstore have said this part will work. can anyone tell me if it will work?

Thanks in advance

Omega General Help / V6 Breather seals and O rings
« on: 22 March 2018, 13:37:11 »
Hopefully someone can help?  I am looking to do a breather clean on my 2.6. I have rang the local dealer who say Breather bridge to plenum seal - 90467543 is no longer sold and there is no alternative.  Could anyone tell me if they have found an alternative or where I can get one?  They stock Breather bridge to throttle O ring - 90500983 but have to pay 9 up front for 5 of them.

I would prefer to get the plenum seal if I can, as the way my luck goes the one on the car will be damaged when taking the piece off.

Thanks in advance for any help.

Omega General Help / Are any of these water pumps OK for 2002 2.6
« on: 19 February 2018, 19:00:45 »
I am looking for a waterpump, for when I do the timing belt on my 2.6.  I have looked on here but cannot seem to find much information, except don't get one with nylon impellar.  I looked on ebay and found these.

Or this one on Eurocarparts

I have heard of Borg and Beck, but don't know of their quality now.

I am open to recommendations or makes other people have used.

Thanks in advance

I am not sure if in right area? Could anyone please tell me if Daz is still around and working on Omegas? I am trying to contact him.


Could anyone recommend anyone or a garage near to Paisley Scotland, that can do a Timing belt on a 2002 2.6 Omega Saloon? I am going to see a 2.6 today, but I would like to get a new timing belt put on for my own piece of mind. I can get the timing belt kit, either Gates or Contitech. I don't have the confidence to change it myself. I don't want to ruin the engine by making a mistake.

Thanks in advance

Omega General Help / What to look for on 2002 2.6 saloon when buying
« on: 14 February 2018, 21:56:35 »
Can anyone tell me what to look for on a 2002 2.6 Saloon, things like rust areas and other problem areas?
Are they DBW?

Thanks in advance

Took car out today. It drove great parked up at my mums for a while.When I went to start it, the engine light came on (not spanner one), and it ran as if missfiring. Got it home, checked codes P0340 Camshaft Position Sensor Circuit No Signal, and P1700 SVS request via CAN. So I cleared them and tried starting the car, the engine light came on again with same codes. Cleared them again and let it run for a while, then it felt lumpy as if missfiring, checked the codes and got a new one, P0351 - Ignition Coil 1 Incorrect Signal. I have changed both Cam and Cranksensor with Genuine Vauxhall ones (From local Dealer) not so long ago. Also was getting missfire on Cylinder 1 error code, after I had done both sensors, so changed Coilpack and new plugs.  Does anyone know what could be causing these to appear again? When I was doing Camsensor I checked all the timing marks and they all lined up. Removed the MAF connector and the car dropped a few revs.

Thanks in advance. If I cann't sort it then going to big carpark in the sky and I will get a V6. Are the new V6 DBW and how reliable are they?

Sorry for all the questions. Can someone tell me if a 2001 2.2 Omega has a fuel check valve. The reason I ask is that when I start the car in the morning,or I leave it for a few days it seems as if the car has run out of petrol. (it has a 1/4 tank of petrol) It takes a while to start causing a Camshaft sensor error code, (I have replaced Cam and Crankshaft sensors, with genuine one done plugs and coil pack also genuine. Once the car is running it goes great. I can turn the car off then restart it without any problems.

Thanks in advance, for all help. This car is getting more like Christine each day, you sort one thing then something else happens. LOL

General Car Chat / New MOT Test
« on: 21 January 2018, 13:06:58 »
I have been reading about the new MOT test, that is supposed to be coming in.  I wonder how many Omegas will end up coming off the road permanently?

Major changes to the MOT test on 20th of May 2018

Some of you may have already heard that there are big changes coming to the MOT test this May. Here are just a few of the biggest changes that are most likely to affect you. Please take these with a pinch of salt as nothing will be finalised until the end of April and will probably still be subject to change after that date. Remember it will take your MOT tester time to get up to speed with these too!


Advisories are being replaced with minor fails. These are all pre written & approved by DVSA. You will still get a pass but they will be noted on your test certificate. Manual advisories are still being worked out but may disappear completely.

Those of you who have changed your standard headlight bulbs for HID's will now get a major fail even if the aim is correct. It has always been an offence to fit HID bulbs to halogen headlamps so the MOT is now in line with that.

Reverse lights are now part of the MOT for any car registered from 1st September 2009 (59 plate onwards). Daytime running lamps (DRL's) & front fog lamps must work on vehicles registered from March 2018 (18 plate onwards).

Engine Management Light is now a major fail. It must come on with the ignition and then turn off when the engine is started.

Brake pad warning lights are a major fail

Handbrake with excessive travel is now a major fail. Before it would only a fail if there was no reserve travel.

Contaminated (dirty) brake fluid is a major fail. Not sure how that will work as the MOT tester isn't allowed to remove the fluid cap.

Oil leaks (engine, gearbox etc.) can be a major failure if they are deemed large enough.

It seems they have removed the failure for tyres not being fitted according to sidewall instructions. Inner/outer or rotation incorrect.

Any modifications/removal to emissions related devices, this includes DPF'S and EGR's is now a major fail.

Where a DPF canister has clearly been cut open and re-welded, it will now fail.

A vehicle fitted with a DPF that emits any kind of visible smoke during the metered test will now fail

Emissions limits for diesels registered on or after 1st of January 2014 have been reduced. All diesels will now need to pass the limit that was set by the manufacturer when the car was new. This can be found on the VIN plate. For example the current limit for your diesel car may be 1.50. That could change to as low as 0.30 with the new rules.

These are just some of the bigger changes to the MOT test the average motorist is likely to be affected by. There are dozens, perhaps even over 100 changes to the actual MOT test and to the way testers record tests on the MOT computer. Please remember these are all subject to change in the coming months.

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