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Messages - mandula

Pages: [1] 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 ... 10
1
Omega General Help / Re: Alarming clonking noise offside front
« on: 12 July 2018, 13:40:07 »
To rule drop links and anti-roll bar bushings out, just detach either one drop link and see if clonk noise is still there. If it's not, you have faulty drop link(s) and/or anti-roll bar bushing(s).

2
Omega General Help / Re: Cam belt tensioner question
« on: 25 June 2018, 06:35:22 »
I had same kind of issue when I did mine.

I did as you did, after turning by hand and running the engine couple of seconds, tensioner was on the loose side about 5 mm.
Then I set up everything all again and re-checked tensioner after turning by hand and running engine couple of seconds and now tensioner remained on the NEW mark.

Haven't checked tensioner since, but it is now past 45 000 km so I assume everything is still fine.

3
Omega General Help / Re: Noisy differential?
« on: 21 June 2018, 08:26:32 »
How to remove this noise?
Oil change didn't fix it, all tooth surfaces are smooth and no big particles found from magnet.

https://www.youtube.com/embed/w7rt17n7A44

4
Omega Electrical and Audio Help / Re: Air con clutch
« on: 31 May 2018, 11:00:28 »
You can test compressor and fans by taking cap off from relay K60 (green 5ft from the left) and pushing contacts together when engine is running.
This should make fans to run and compressor clutch to operate if wirings and compressor clutch is okay.

5
Omega General Help / Re: Another Air Con question
« on: 30 May 2018, 17:34:05 »
Yea, as stated above your post I noticed there was almost none stuff in the system.

I was confident that I could trust the live parameter reading of A/C pressure. I was wrong. But now atleast I know better how my A/C system works  8)

6
Omega General Help / Re: Another Air Con question
« on: 30 May 2018, 14:31:34 »
Ok, almost none PUFF when pressed valve. To the service it is then  :(

Next time I test that method first and dont trust any stupid false nonsense readings that applications give..

7
Omega General Help / Re: Another Air Con question
« on: 30 May 2018, 14:17:09 »
It really is 1000 kPa, it sure might be 100 kPa so it might be normal surrounding pressure.

I read somewhere that there is some analog pressure sensor that gives pressure reading in voltages to ECU or what ever is controlling A/C system?


Well, I made some testings and took hats off from relays K60 and K87 under bonnet. Car was running.

When I pressed contacts on relay K87, both fans switched ON.
When I pressed contacts on relay K60, both fans switched ON and compressor engaged.

So I believe all wirings are OK.

I believe now I have about three options left and one extra option:

1. Pressure too high (I don't really believe so because A/C worked fine for one day).
2. Pressure too low.
3. Pressure sensor/switch defected.
(4. take it to the service  :'()

Maybe next I'll connect OBD-reader again and check if pressing pressure valve gives me any PUFF and if so, does that affect the reading I see on live parameters..

8
Omega General Help / Re: Another Air Con question
« on: 30 May 2018, 13:29:10 »
My A/C has also stopped working.

After winter when hot day I noticed lack of cold air coming from nozzles and compressor did not engaged.
I took it to A/C service where they refilled the system and after that A/C worked fine (cold air coming and compressor engaged), until the next day it did not work again. No cold air and compressor does not engage.

I viewed live parameters with OBD-tester via phone application and it said there is A/C-pressure of 1000 kPa (~10 bar).
I could also test A/C-relay (I don't know which relay) from this application and it made fan to start up at engine bay .
I've measured that compressor magnetic clutch resistance is OK 4.3 ohm.
Fuses are OK.

I assume there is no leak because of A/C-pressure reading says there is pressure (does that pressure reading sound about right?).
Is there a way to force engage compressors clutch from relay box, to check there is no open circuit on wirings?
What else could I check before I go back to A/C-service for troubleshooting and giving away my money?

I don't know are these related, but just after A/C-service car's Check control informed me about "Check oil level". There was oil enough and that message keeps coming and going randomly many times a day.

9
Weld (or ask someone to) nuts on top of those broken studs, and carefully screw them out. They come out very easy, done it couple of times.

10
Omega General Help / Re: Polybushing
« on: 14 May 2018, 18:16:00 »
https://www.strongflex.eu/en/content/6-red-or-yellow

https://www.powerflex.co.uk/road-series/product-details/Powerflex+Material+Shore+Demonstrator+/11710.html

Red Strongflex and purple Powerflex have same hardness 80 ShA. From first above links it says that it is a similar hardness as rubber bush would have.

For the price of one purple Powerflex you can buy one red and one yellow Strongflex to compare  :P

11
Omega General Help / Re: Polybushing
« on: 14 May 2018, 13:30:13 »

What grease did you use?

Did you find any difference after changing the front bush from Powerflex to Strongflex?

What improvement did it have on steering and handling with just the front poly bushed changed and rear left standard?

What improvement did it have on steering and handling with both the front and rear poly bushed poly bushed?

Thanks

I used the grease that came with Strongflex bushes. I used it plenty to all surfaces where metal to bush contacted.

I found some improvement how steering and handling felt when replaced front bush from Powerflex to Strongflex because different in stiffness. It felt a bit more steady to drive overall.
But I must say that Strongflex was better design. There was grid groove where centre metal tube is inserted. This helps greasing it better. At Powerflex there was nothing, only flat surface that wont hold any grease on it when you push that centre tube in place.

I had pretty new rubber bushings before I fitted polys, so I think there was not so much noticeable difference that I wished for. Maybe when cornering difference between rubber and polys could be noticed most. And of course in time, when rubber loosen up polys show why they are better.

Same thing with rear bushing. I did not even wanted any improvement for steering and handling when I changed rear bushing, all I wanted was not to worry about rubber bushes to wear out.

12
Omega General Help / Re: Polybushing
« on: 14 May 2018, 11:11:35 »
Did anyone see nick bonds solution? https://www.facebook.com/TheBodgeShop/posts/1774395092587610
https://www.facebook.com/TheBodgeShop/posts/1774199165940536:0

It looks rusty/dirty inside that bushing.

What I've read, poly bushing binding can cause problems like that when there is no grease or not suitable grease used (some may consider it as installation fault).

I could easily move my wishbones up and down with very little friction and no noise coming from bushings when I removed struts out of the way. I bet there is much more resistance with regular rubber bushings when comparing movement against (properly installed) poly bushings.

So far I can say that these bushes are not moving the flex from the part that is designed to accommodate it, but are even making it easier to flex.

13
Omega General Help / Re: Polybushing
« on: 14 May 2018, 09:41:40 »
Last week replaced strut mounts + bearings and ball joints so was able to check wishbones. No cracks or other faults found, all good with both front and rear polybushings fitted.

Good to here that all is still good.  :y How long have you had them fitted?

Is this still correct, you have Powerflex in the front and Strongflex yellow for the back bush of the wishbone?

What make of wishbone did you use?

Thanks

I fitted first Powerflex to front bush (if I remember correclty, over 2 years ago).
Then fitted Strongflex to rear bush over 1.5 years ago and (again if I remember correctly) near that time replaced front polys to Strongflex yellow ones that are a bit stiffer than Powerflex purples (90 ShA vs 80 ShA).

So now I have both front and rear bushes Strongflex yellows fitted.

My wishbones were replaced about 5 years ago when I purchased my car, job was done by local garage and I dont know what brand they used.
About 50 euros each.

14
Does it make same noise when you jack front up and turn wheels?
I had same kind of noise coming and I was sure it is top mount, but it was ball joint with puncture on its rubber sleeve that was probably full of dirt and making all the noise.

Worth to check if you cant find solution from strut end.

15
Omega General Help / Re: Polybushing
« on: 14 May 2018, 06:43:50 »
Last week replaced strut mounts + bearings and ball joints so was able to check wishbones. No cracks or other faults found, all good with both front and rear polybushings fitted.

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