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Maintenance Guides / Replacing DIS pack on the V6
« on: 10 August 2006, 16:42:13 »
Courtesy of Cipher.

- First things first, disconnect the Negative battery lead and put it where it cannot touch the battery. The DIS pack makes a hell of a lot of juice and you dont want to be messing with when its live. Remember that you may need the Stereo code once reconnected, so make sure you have this
- Remove the wipers; There are two plastic caps (or there should be) covering the 13mm retaining bolts, pop these off, and then undo the bolts, they shouldn't be very tight. With the bolts out, then push down gently on the hinge in the wiper arm, and then whilst pushing down, lift the wipers from the shaft  
- Remove the scuttle; Pull the scuttle rubber trim, then undo the T25 bolt holding the scuttle to the offside wing. Then undo the (I think there are) seven plastic clips under the lower windsheild rubber. These are Torx head, but they have a slot for a flat screwdriver in. Pull the peice covering the pollen filter first, then the main bit.  
- Remove the plug leads from the DIS pack, and pull them up out of the way. I placed mine on top of the cam covers. Out of the way. Undo the wiring connector for the DIS pack too,
- Remove the wiring plug for the DIS pack.  
- Depending on the year of your car (or engine) the DIS pack will either be mounted horizontally or vertically. Mine is horizontal.  
- The bolts on my DIS pack were E10, but yours may be different.
- Undo the two bolts on the left hand side (viewed from front) of the DIS pack. access is tight, I found that I had to push the HBV out of the way slightly.  
- Now, you need to undo the bolts on the right hand side. Vx say this can be done from underneath the vehicle. I say, well, yes, if you remove the gearbox, or take the exhaust off. So I did it from the top. You have bend your hand into a somewhat un-natural position, but it can be done, I used a 3" extansion bar for the bottom one.
- Now, you need to remove the DIS pack out. I couldn't get mine into the clearing on the left hand side of the engine (as viewed from fromt) as the HBV is there. So I took mine out through the top.
- To give myself enough room to get the DIS pack out, I removed the Carbon Canister Purge Soleniod (This is the black thing at the back right of the plenum. There are two vacuum pipes and an Electrical connector. I also removed a vacuum hose from the Fuel Pressure regulator.
- Now, maneouver the DIS pack out through the gap. Its possibly easier to get a square peg into a round hole, but it does comes.
- New one goes in the same way
- Locate the coils into the mounting recess, and insert the bolts. Finger tight at the minute, just to hold it in place.
- Tighten the bolts back up. They should be tightened to 8Nm, but there is more chance of Satan skating to work that there is getting a torque wrench down there.
- Install the wiring connector
- Insert the HT leads, easier if you do the drivers side first, as on mine (horizontal) these are at the bottom of the DIS pack.
- Reconnect the wiring plug and the vacuum hoses to the Purge solenoid and then refit it to the plenum.
- Reconnect the FPR vacuum hose.
- Replace the scuttle; Install the bigger peice first, and then the smaller peice. Lifting the rubber seal GENTLY with a screwdriver, or similar. tighten the locking screws (1/4 turn) and tighten the T25 bolts on the OS wing. Replace the rubber trim
- Re-install the wipers, and just nick the bolts tight (As Mark DTM says: Half a grunt should do it) and then replace the covering caps
- Reconnect the negative earth lead.
- Start the engine, and hopefully all should be fine.
It is not that hard, it is just (like with most things on the Omega) awkward as there seems to be limited access to just about everything in the engine bay.  

Maintenance Guides / Hillpers Boot Mod. (facelift cars)
« on: 10 August 2006, 12:58:10 »
The early facelift Omegas have a very annoying boot release 'feature'.

The boot cannot be 'popped' from the centre console button, unless the engine is off and ignition key removed.

Later facelifts had this feature removed.

To remove it yourself, simply detach the driver kick panel by undoing two Torx screws. (The bottom one is hidden under the sill cover. Lever off the VX logo plate on the sill cover to reveal the 4 Torx screws under it which retain the sill cover).
This reveals the 'Anti theft warning and central door locking control unit'
It has two plugs on its lower edge. A big one and a smaller 12 pin one. (On right in picture).

On the smaller plug, locate the two red wires.

Cut the thinner of the two red wires (Pin 3).

This is the 12v supply from the ignition switch 'W' contact when the key is in the lock. Without this supply, the remote boot release is always enabled.

Tape the bare cut end from the loom. (Shrink tube is better).

The finished result. An action shot of the boot 'popping'.

Edit. I must add a disclaimer here! There will be no delay on the button activating the lid, so it's possible to accidentally pop it. Especially important for estate owners.

Maintenance Guides / Door Card Removal - Facelift
« on: 15 July 2006, 09:52:59 »
Courtesy of Hillper :)

Car: 2.2CD (2000) facelift. Similar technique applies for other models.

Lever out switch cluster and unplug. Lever out tweeter grill and tweeter and unplug.

Remove screws. One screw on side by lock. Three screws on the bottom. Two screws on the front under covers in the oval shaped area where the dashboard side meets. One screw in the tweeter recess. And......the 'secret screw', the last one, is under a little pop off panel about 40mm square behind the flip down pocket. It's only visible when the pocket is pulled open. The panel levers off easily.

It's easier to get the door card off if you pull off the 'triangle' where the door mirror adjuster would be.
The small triangle on the corner has a full-length lip on the window side.
The easiest method for removing the door triangle is to ease it away from the door metal at the door hinge end, this will release the two white plugs, then slide it towards the rear of the car to unclip the full length lip.
When you do pull it off, you may find you've left one or both white plastic plugs which locate in the door frame. Remove them from the frame and re-insert in the 'triangle' before replacing.
Pull the bottom of the card out about 3 inches and tap the card up from the bottom. The locating strip will pop out of the guide along the door top. Lift card over the lock pin and detach the curb light and speaker plug. The speaker plug is fiddly and requires three hands!

The horizontal, plastic locating strip running along the top of the card often partly breaks off.
Drill several screw holes along the base of the strip still on the card, holding it by hand in position on the card. (You can see the correct position by aligning the strip with the old glue mark). Drill smaller pilot holes through the strip holes and into the cardboardy stuff of the panel. When you've got enough holes (every 25mm), apply Araldite and screw the strip down. Let it dry thoroughly.

Whilst the card is drying, the rattling lock pins can be silenced using small pieces of foam draft strip applied around hole in the door card where the pin comes through and by using the foam strip on the door itself by buiding up several layers behind the door push rod to help reduce the vibration.

It's awkward getting the card back on. Locate card over lockpin. Re-attach speaker plugs, curb light plug tweeter plug and window plug. Pull the door card away from the door a bit at the bottom and knock down on the top of the trim, whilst pushing in at the top, the strip should locate! Refit tweeter and switches.
Last point. Some of the self tappers in the door are different sizes, so remember where
they go!

As a tip, you can leave the window switch in place and connected if only working on the door lock end etc

Maintenance Guides / Fitting Cruise (Facelift Only)
« on: 15 July 2006, 09:51:18 »
Guide Courtesy of Hillper.  :D

Car. Omega, 2.2 CD, 2000 'W', facelift. (Fly-by-wire). Auto.

Component needed: Used indicator stalk. I got mine from 20+3.51pp.

Remove control stalk cowling. It's in two halves, separated horizontally. Bottom half secured to car with 3 crossheads in triangle pattern underneath. Top half secured to bottom half with two crossheads on front face. Screws are under plastic covers, not visible until wheel turned through 90 degrees.
Unscrew steering column adjuster stalk to allow removal of bottom half.

Stalk and switch body slides out after pressing in side retaining clips. Wiring plug held in with grey slide. Remove slide and release plug.

Fit replacement stalk which has one extra little plug on a flying lead. Additional socket is tucked away beside main socket. Fit retaining slide (or in my case, forget to fit retaining slide!).
Slide main switch body back in until it locates.

Re-fit cowling. Getting the rubber boots to locate properly was a little fiddly.

Go to vauxhall dealer and talk very nicely to mechanic. Cruise enabled with Tech2 in five minutes. Donate to mechanic's favourite charity.

That's it! It works! No brake switch change or extra fuse etc.

Maintenance Guides / Resetting one touch window function.
« on: 11 July 2006, 08:13:50 »
One touch windows and multi position sunroof (where fitted).

On Omegas (also Carltons and Senators) the windows have a one touch function for operation both up and down with retraction sensors.

The sensors are a very sensible safety feature where if the motor feels resistance when raising the window, it stops and reverses the window a few inches. These work whether you have the one touch activated or not.

If you have disconnected the battery, the windows and sunroof will go back to basic settings, ie. keep finger on button to operate window.
Also the sunroof control probably will not work.

To re-activate one touch, with the window closed, simply press and hold the button as if you were closing the window for 2-3 seconds. If it quiet you may hear the relay click. Repeat for each window.

The sunroof is slightly different.
With the sunroof closed, push the controller in and hold for 2 seconds.
Do the same with the dial in the fully open position and in the tilt position.
Sunroof is now reset.

Omega Common Issues and FAQ / Cambelts Interval
« on: 11 July 2006, 08:10:51 »
Cambelts. What is the correct service interval?

On ALL petrol Omegas the cambelt kit (belt, tensioner, pulley) should be changed every 40k/4 years
(whichever comes sooner).

Do not just get the belt changed (whether DIY or garage, ensure the receipt is for the full kit).
It is the tensioner that usually fails first.
On a multivalve engine, this usually means you replace the engine!

If you have just bought the car and you do not have a receipt for a full kit change, budget for this to be done ASAP!

Omega Common Issues and FAQ / Steering noises?
« on: 11 July 2006, 08:12:17 »
Steering pulls to the side or knocking noises over bumps?
Firstly, steering pulling to the side could be many things. Tyres, tyre pressures, wishbones, steering idler, suspension struts or even accident damage.

Knocking or clunking is usually the drop links and or wishbones. Don't eliminate everything else. A broken spring can often sit at the bottom of a strut and clunk over pot holes without falling out. Also A bumper not tight can sound the same!

Easiest thing is to eliminate the worst things first and check the easiest as well. So, get underneath with a torch and look for obvious signs of chassis legs being bent or crumpled. Look for fresh paint or welding. Is one side of the car much cleaner than the other?

Next tyres. take the wheel off and look at the wheel for damage and especially the tyre. Look for bulges, particularly on the inside edge. Look at the tread carefully and check for uneven wear or cuts,splits etc. Check the tyre pressures. As a general guide 30-32psi all round seems about right, but check your handbook. It does depend on load as well.

Now check the steering idler. Jack up the left front and rock the wheel from left to right whilst someone looks at the idler. Is there movement and play?

Wishbones. Get a breaker bar and try to move the bushes. There should be virtually no movement like this.

Drop links, examine the rubber for age related damage and splits.

If you find uneven tyre wear and/or the steering wheel is not centred, chances are your tracking is out. Get full geometry check done - 4 wheel tracking is often inadequate on Omega. This will ensure the steering wheel is centred properly as well as the tracking, and importantly camber, set up. If you find the wheel isn't centred afterwards, go straight back and insist they put it right and don't take no for an answer. The Omega isn't special, different or difficult.

Omega Electrical and Audio Help / Re: door speakers
« on: 07 June 2008, 10:23:22 »
I know this is your business Dave, but I don't agree. ;)

The standard speakers in the Omega are much better quality than many others I have seen.

They sound so much better when given a decent signal and have the lower frequencies filtered off to a sub. I used an Alpine MRV-F407, (old V12 series, proper Alpine amp, far superior to the stuff of the last few years) and I was astonished at how good they sounded.

Prior to this I was going to replace them but I found I didn't need to.

I always feel you should upgrade a car system in this order:

Change the headunit first for something decent (Pioneer,Alpine etc).

Next amp the system (30w rms per channel will be fine for the door speakers) and add a small sub.

Finally change the speakers if you are not satisfied with the sound they are producing.

Omega Electrical and Audio Help / Re: door speakers
« on: 06 June 2008, 22:23:28 »
It is as TheBoy said. The distortion is caused by the (small) internal amp on the headunit being overworked as the sound is turned up.

The standard speakers are very good and respond well to a much stronger (and cleaner) signal.

An aftermarket headunit will be much better, assuming it is a decent make, but even then you are looking at a max of 22w rms.
By the way the standard unit will be producing around 10w rms.

Omega Electrical and Audio Help / Re: Phone sim card.
« on: 02 August 2008, 16:59:31 »
As I recall you are limited on choices of mobile provider with the CCRT700.

Vodafone works fine and I am sure T Mobile is fine too.

It is down to the ban the provider uses and the headunit will only support the 900mhz level.

Apologies for the not very technical comments but I am no telecoms engineer (unlike a few people here).

Omega Electrical and Audio Help / Re: 2001 51 Omega Speakers
« on: 03 August 2008, 17:13:21 »
You do need really quite shallow mounting speakers (no more than 50mm if I recall correctly.

The adaptors for the Omega are awkward too as there aren't any direct adaptors (unless things have changed recently).

Problem is the alternator.
Voltage regulator is shot so it throws up various warning lights on the dash.

Do not drive the car until you have changed the alternator or you run the risk of not only frying the battery but other components too.

And is the steering wheel an add on on 97 P reg.

No, you will find that pre '97 cars had steering wheels too. ;)

It is the good old favourite of the bonnet sensor. ;)

It is the spring loaded sensor on the right at the back of the engine bay.

Simply tape it down and all will quiet again.

Well look on the bright side, whatever you change it to will be an improvement! ;)

Originally the 1996 Elite came with the SC804CDC and a 6 cd changer.
Optional extra was a small amp and 2 bass drivers mounted on the rear shelf. It was actually quite good.

The Delco is a truly horrible headunit but at least changing it will be simple. Just a case of remove (throw away) and plug in decent replacement (Pioneer, Alpine, Kenwood, JVC) :)

If you need specific instructions, PM me .

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