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Messages - x25xe

Pages: 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 [9] 10 11 12 13 14 15 16 ... 61
Omega General Help / Re: Crank sensor cable route
« on: 06 July 2007, 15:27:17 »
Have you managed to locate the large electrical connector in the middle at the back of the engine?  My crank sensor cable connector was next to this and I did not have to remove the wiper scuttle.

Omega General Help / Re: Crank sensor cable route
« on: 04 July 2007, 12:31:13 »
This route has not caused me any problems up to now - however, it has only been on the car for a short while!  I will, I think, change it as Mark suggests.

Omega General Help / Re: Crank sensor cable route
« on: 04 July 2007, 09:28:33 »
OK.  Here are the pictures of my present crank sensor cable route as promised.  I will, though, be modifying this to include the cable tray as Marks DTM suggests.  Hope they are useful..............

1.  Here are the connectors at the top of the plenum for the sensor.  The green arrow is the new connector, the black is the old which I have left in place

2.  I cable tied the cable to the vac pipe

3.  Using another cable tie, I then attached the cable to this pipe

4.  The cable then runs past an A/C pipe

5.  And then past this pipe

6.  The cable then goes into the darkness of the engine bay and leads to the crank sensor

7.  This is a view from the top, showing the exhaust manifold, down pipe and sensor cable

I hope that the pictures are fairly easy to follow / work out.  It is quite hard to focus the camera on just the cable / connections!

Omega General Help / Re: Crank sensor cable route
« on: 03 July 2007, 13:28:52 »
Thats about right.....on the 2.5/3.0 (and I think the slot is still there on the 2.6/3.2 cable trays) I pop the cover off the passenger side cable tray that runs over the 2-4-6 head and pull the crank sensor loom wires back so they can exit out the side slot of the tray (where the idle valve wire would go on the early engines).

This makes it even easier to wire in as there is more slack.

That seems an ideal route to me - I did not know that the cabling for the crank sensor went along that cable tray.  I will modify my instillation.

Omega General Help / Re: Crank sensor cable route
« on: 03 July 2007, 11:53:56 »
This is the route that I took when I changed my sensor.  It seems to be OK so far!  I will be posting some pics later on today for Marks DTM.

Omega General Help / Re: Tie rod removal
« on: 06 July 2007, 09:02:52 »
As others have said, get the tool as described.  You can get them from Machine mart for under half the price that Halfords quote.  Beware that the delivery time from Machine Mart is around 3 days.  I have 2 of these tools and would gladly lend you one if required.

Omega General Help / Re: Omega V6 speed rating on tyres- V or W
« on: 06 July 2007, 09:00:07 »
V and H ratings on the tyres are about speed - load capacity of the tyre is stated separately generally it is marked on the side of the tyre something like "maximum load at ** psi *** lbs"

Hope this helps

Omega General Help / Re: paperclip test
« on: 28 June 2007, 22:28:58 »
Can somebody take a pic of the cable routing (after fitting), connector location etc so I can add them to the how to....


Will try and post up tomorrow.

Omega General Help / Re: paperclip test
« on: 28 June 2007, 10:11:25 »
Which is here:

I found that I could rear the connector without removing the windscreen scuttle - it is the small connector which on my car was next to the large connector at the back of the engine in the middle of the engine if that makes sense!

Omega General Help / Re: paperclip test
« on: 28 June 2007, 10:08:41 »
Yes, code 19 is crank sensor.  Not hard at all to replace - I have done mine recently and it took around 45 minutes, that included a walk to the dealer to get the part.

There is a maint guide which describes how to do it - will have a search..

Omega General Help / Re: Yup, all done!
« on: 28 June 2007, 10:03:49 »
Dunno to be honest, only had it a few weeks, buy no recipt for cambelt with the paperwork!  Could be 5K ago, could be 55K ago! :-/

In that case, either do it or get it done straight away - make sure that it is the full kit which means belt, tension rollers and rollers.  If your mileage is fairly high say 80K and above, then get the water pump changed as well.  Broken tension roller means broken engine!!

Just stating this in case you do not already know!

Omega General Help / Re: buy ??????
« on: 22 June 2007, 23:47:36 »
GLS and CD are model designations which are reflective of the trim and equipment (or toys).  GLS is generally the lowest model although you may see a reflection which I believe is lower still.  CD is slightly higher than GLS with wood trims, electric front windows better stereo and air con, CDX better still with climate control, electric windows all round wood trim on doors and centre dash etc.  Top of the range is the Elite which has all the CDX has and more, like fully upgraded stereo (Bose), auto dimming mirror, memory seats, leather trim (standard on petrol 3.0 V6) body coloured sill moldings etc.

As to whether there are a lot of diesel 2.5 models around for the year you are looking at, I am not sure I am afraid.  I think that high spec cars were generally petrol models - diesel elites seem to be quite rare.

I am sort of on the look out for an Elite at present, but the 2.5 V6.  Good luck with your search

Hope this helps

Omega General Help / Re: Source of oil leak - V6 Elite Estate
« on: 23 June 2007, 23:19:54 »
I have currently have a 1960 hillman minx

Slightly off topic - sorry - but do you have any pics of the Minx?  I would be most interested in seeing them if you do.  Could you post them up perhaps?

The compressor will not run if the gas is low as the gas is also mixed with pag oil and this is required for lubrication. Without this damage would be caused. If the system has not been charged for more then 3 years it may simply be low on gas as most a/c systems can loose up to 20% of their charge each year.
If your problem is simply low gas then kwik fit does have a very good price for a recharge. However anything else and they are likely to be clueless. Personally I would pay a bit more and go to a pucca a/c specialist and get the job done right the first time. I recently had this done and it cost me 70 in London for a recharge and a very thorough inspection and vacuum. They did find a problem with one of the auxiliary fans not running which I suspect Kwik fit would probably not have noticed. They also noted evidence of a very slight leak from the compressor main seal but said this was fairly common on Omega's and for the time being not worth replacing as they had removed 700 grams of gas and refilled with 915 grams meaning a loss of 215 grams over the 3 years since last charged (an acceptable loss).  
I honestly think it's worth paying a little more for the specialist experience and if something is wrong they will actually know how to fix it.  

*** Edit as a result of above message they did have a very close look at the bottom of the condensor on my car stating it was very clean and a very common cause of leakage on the Omega's as it starts crumbling and corroding ***

What was the name of the specialist that you went to and where abouts is it in London?  The air con on my Cavalier has stopped working Omega Climate is fine though!) and I want to take it somewhere decent for exactly the reasons you state.

Omega General Help / Re: I have a feeling....................
« on: 25 May 2007, 10:55:21 »
Back a day early from my week away on the Isle of Wight, so decided to do the paperclip test.

Sure enough, code 19 is present so I will take a walk to the stealers to get a new sensor.

I did the test twice, firstly with the engine stopped and then with it running.  I got different codes as follows:

Engine Stopped:

13  Oxygen Sensor No change in volt / open circuit
15  Coolant Temp Sensor High Volt
19  RPM Signal Incorrect

Engine Running:

19  RPM Signal Incorrect

So, question is, is this normal or have I got other things to worry about?

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