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Messages - x25xe

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151
Omega General Help / Re: AIR CON COMMPRESSOR - LEAK
« on: 26 May 2007, 12:15:19 »
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its sounds like its running fine and may have been a false alarm.

Agreed.


152
Omega General Help / Re: AIR CON COMMPRESSOR - LEAK
« on: 26 May 2007, 09:39:02 »
You say that the system is still working fine.  How cold is it?  Did you use it yesterday when it was quite hot and did it cool the car?  A non technical test I use is put the A/C on, fan speed fairly low and breathe out slowly into the stream of air.  If your breath condenses (i.e. you see steam) then the system is cooling adequately.

If the above is the case, I wonder if you have a leak at all.  How do the MOT people know that you have a leak?  Did they do any sort of test?  Is there UV Dye in the system?

153
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What about blocking it off where it meets the plenum, easier to get those bolts off than the rusted ones at the base of the egr, mine is the same as the one in the pics and I dont fancy doing that.

Btw I will pop down on sat am, will call when on route.  :y


Agreed.  I ment to suggest this area as well, but this got missed of my post  :-[  Now edited to correct this and a typo!

154
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Hmmm, based on the codes and the behaviour, I would suspect a blocked exhaust, most likely a blocked cat.

At 5k rpm or so, it won't "jump" a tooth or 2 on the cams, it will let go in a very impressive manner!
Thats good to know..  :y Phew!


With regards to the EGR Blanking off post above.. What does that entail?

Blocked exhaust is also a very strong possibility.  To blank of the EGR, you need to remove it from the manifold.  The hole that is then exposed is then blocked by means of a thin piece of metal - the side of a coke can etc. - and the valve is then put back on.  This will not clear the fault, but it will stop the exhaust gas being drawn into the engine when it should not.

As others have said (as as I should have :-[) check all the wiring connectors are pushed home etc.

I hope that this explains it better - if not post again.  I will try and put some pictures up later of the EGR valve so you know what you are looking for at least.

As promised, here we go with the pics of the EGR valve.  This is from my 1998 mini facelift.

Firstly, the EGR valve itself which is on the drivers side of the engine (left hand cylinder bank):



Next, is the connection between the exhaust manifold and the base of the EGR valve:



and this is where the top of the valve mounts on the Plenum (the silver top of the engine with ECOTEC written on it):



I guess that either the base of the valve, the shiny silver part in the first pic where it meets the older looking metal, or at the plenum would be the best places to blank it off if you choose to take this route.

I will be interested to see how you get on with resolving this issue.

Hope this helps in some way.  Good Luck

****EDIT****

Edited to correct spelling of best and include what I was going to say about blanking at either the base or the plenum.

155
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Hmmm, based on the codes and the behaviour, I would suspect a blocked exhaust, most likely a blocked cat.

At 5k rpm or so, it won't "jump" a tooth or 2 on the cams, it will let go in a very impressive manner!
Thats good to know..  :y Phew!


With regards to the EGR Blanking off post above.. What does that entail?

Blocked exhaust is also a very strong possibility.  To blank of the EGR, you need to remove it from the manifold.  The hole that is then exposed is then blocked by means of a thin piece of metal - the side of a coke can etc. - and the valve is then put back on.  This will not clear the fault, but it will stop the exhaust gas being drawn into the engine when it should not.

As others have said (as as I should have :-[) check all the wiring connectors are pushed home etc.

I hope that this explains it better - if not post again.  I will try and put some pictures up later of the EGR valve so you know what you are looking for at least.

156
If the EGR valve is stuck open then this would cause running issues like you describe.  You can always blank this off and see if the running improves.  If so, you have found your fault and it won't have cost you anything apart from a bit of time.

157
Omega General Help / Re: spanner light on + no power
« on: 24 May 2007, 17:36:08 »
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phew, was not looking forward to replacing lambda...

Battery voltage high? - I have a weak connection from the alternator, where the loom crimps onto the battery connector. If anything i would have thought it would be low.

Thottle body cleaned out about 8 months ago... not done many miles since.

I thought crank sensor = no running + stalling?

I'll post up codes later... must get myself a code reader.

I believe that I am correct in saying that on the 2.0 and 2.2 engines, the camshaft and crankshaft sensors work together.  If one fails, then the ECU substitutes pre programmed values for it and hence the engine keeps running.  It should not, though, exhibit the same symptoms as you have though.

I know that when the cam sensor went in my Cav (as it has several times) the engine was down on power and was reluctant to rev, but it was drivable.

158
Omega General Help / Re: DIS pack removal questions
« on: 17 May 2007, 12:27:02 »
Good luck with the swap.  Let us know how you get on and if the problem is cured.

159
Omega General Help / Re: bad missfire,bad stink!!!!!!!!!!
« on: 15 May 2007, 22:00:27 »
Which cylinder number is not firing on each bank?  If there was no difference when you removed the leads, I would suspect the DIS pack - seems as though one of the coils which provides a spark for 2 cylinders has failed.  

This would also support the earlier post about the cats breaking down due to unburned fuel.

These symptoms would be nothing to do with the o2 sensors.

160
Omega General Help / Re: New owner...
« on: 10 May 2007, 22:04:20 »
Mine must be exceptional then as it is not disconnected and has not "spoke to me" once!  Mind you, I have never pressed the switch either as I do not want to start it off!

161
Omega General Help / Re: New owner...
« on: 10 May 2007, 20:28:38 »
And yes, the Traffic Master is above the pedal panel on the left hand side (near the centre of the car).  It has traffic master written on it.  Have you tried pressing the switch on the dash to turn it off?

Agree with all other comments about oil and air con.

162
Omega General Help / Re: New owner...
« on: 10 May 2007, 20:25:54 »
Firstly, welcome to the forum.

I had exactly the same problem with the CD player as you - it would read and play mastered discs, but hardly any of my CD-Rs.  Then, it stopped playing anything.  I fitted an aftermarket system (Pioneer) and have not look back since.

The point of saying all this is that the Trip Computer and Check control system work fine without the original system being connected.  However, you will lose the RDS clock facility (which I found quite good actually) and the display will no longer show the radio station or disc / tape readout.  This is replaced by the date.  I am not too bothered by this although you can purchase an adapter to drive the display again.  They come up on e-Bay from time to time and are made by Connects2.  This is not as easy as it seems though; 1. the are quite expensive (over 50 I think) and, more importantly, 2: there is hardly any room behind the head unit for additional cabling and interface boxes as you will discover.  For these reasons, I left it alone.  You will also loose the steering wheel buttons, and yes you can get an adapter for these, but again I left them disconnected.

There are some Car Audio experts on here, Laidback and Hilper being two that come to mind.

Hope this helps

163
Omega General Help / Re: Should I complain?
« on: 08 May 2007, 16:55:24 »
Me too!

164
Omega General Help / Re: V6 breathers/vac pipes
« on: 08 May 2007, 14:54:00 »
Will be very useful when I come to do mine with my spark plug change.  Thank you for all your efforts Mark, and Ronnie for writing the guide in the first place!

165
Omega General Help / Re: Doors
« on: 07 May 2007, 11:12:58 »
As facelift doors had better corrosion protection, then they would be an ideal fitment to a pre facelift car.

Very interesting to know that the later doors will fit the older cars - I need two rear doors - just need to fit a suitable donor car!

If you do fit the doors to your car, could you let us know how you got on?


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