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I think the front exhaust needs moving and a couple of bolts into the bell housing + sump bolts to blockNo, I do not have an emissons print out from the Octobe MOT.
and the pick up pipe is part of the sump ,so sump gasket requires a good seal around where the pick up meets the block and pump or it will suck air rather than oil
which will give low oil pressure ,the oil pressure sensor could be crudded up or the oil is too thin when warm (just leaking out the big ends and mains and not even getting to the head
there is a diaphragm in the rocker cover (like a crank case breather one way valve) can split
first thing i would do is check the plugs ,if very oily
(oil passing rings,oil control rings stuck)
do you have a print out to say the emissions where done a month ago ? what readings or did the tester skip it
Thanks for that. Might that explain the MOT emissions failure?This car is nearly MOT ready. However, when I bought it (last Saturday) the engine management light was on, and this was listed as an MOT failure matter. After Webby the Bear kindly told me where to find the OBD2 socket I plugged in my simple code reader, read the code (lean mixture bank 1) , cancelled it, and the light has stayed off ever since. Today I plugged in my laptop diagnostic device, and read live data. Code P0621-04 came up as a fault code, Generator Lamp "L" Control Circuit Malfunction. O2 sensor 1 was switching RICH/LEAN/RICH /LEAN satisfactorily, but O2 sensor 2 was steady on LEAN. Engine light remains off. My worry is it will come again.
What should I do?
Terry, sorry I have come to this conversation a bit late. Your Z16XEP fault will keep re-occurring. In somewhere between 60 and 100 miles P0170-2 will show. It's a common fault i have just sorted on mine. The EGR recirculation channels in the intake manifold where it butts the cylinder head become blocked preventing the gas from entering the manifold. The ECU discovers this and finds it cannot enrich the mixture to accommodate it in the warm up cycle and throws the code.
Solution, take it to bits, about 2 hrs work, clean it and put it all back together again. You might also find some muppet has blocked off the EGR channel from the valve. If so this will have the same effect. Having done this, if the fault re-occurs then the EGR is not functioning correctly.
Is dropping the sump a simple matter of draining the oil, then undoing the bolts holding sump to block?Hmm. Wondering if the pickup strainer got clogged? Years of neglect followed by fresh oil with fresh detergent...?
I think you hit the nail on the head
5w30 will strip all the dirt from a neglected 100k+ engine
indeed, dropping the sump to look would be worth the time
knock top end ? oil starved lifters perhaps
you could try... sump and pick up cleaned,plugs checked ,fresh filter and thicker oil ?
Check the MOT historyNo mention of emission problems in service records or old MOTs, or I would not have bought it. In the MOT fail in October emissions were not mentioned. I was therefore surprised this morning when the tester failed to get it through the emissions test. Three attempts with sustained high revs failed, got the engine and the oil hot, then it rattled. With hindsight, the oil remaining black after oil change warranted more investigation.
has it failed on emissions in the past ?
how is the engine now you changed the oil ? any noisy valve lifters ? knocks etc ? smoke when the engine is up to temperature ? is this the 120k miles one ?
5w30 fully synthetic is thin and will flush sludge from all the engine IF it is there (if engine has done short journeys,not had regular oil changes,had thick oil in the past)
I've had this in the past ,a 1.6 with only 80k that a garage put flushing oil in to reduce emissions then fully synthetic 5w30 (it did not work, just made it worse ) all the sludge just stuck in the oil control rings ,jamming them in the pistons
it smoked like a steam train when warm, I got the car,stripped it ,new rings ,cleaned sump etc and found the emissions fail was down to a clogged injector
your car may have had thick oil in or not been changed enough(very likely from what you say) ,
hopefully a couple of oil and filter changes will resolve it .
They probably don't want to lose their best customer, Terry!I'll have another car for them soon.
This car comes with an amazing service history. Since 2014 it has had one owner. She appears to have changed what was necessary to keep it going and get it through MOT tests, but never changed the oil. She did change the cambelt, tensioners and water pump on purchase, and has since then changed droplinks, plugs, fuel pump, crank sensor, steering joints and tyres as required. The oil was seriously black. I ran the engine for 10 minutes to warm up the oil, then drained it for 3 hours. I changed the oil filter and put in new Trade Club 5W30 oil. Checking the level, the oil on the dip stick was still black. Oh dear.Not long I fear. Took car for MOT this morning, it struggled on emissions, then began to rattle. Tester stiopped the engine, asked me what he should do. I said skip emissons, do the rest of the test. He drove the car onto the rollers for the brake test, the engine stopped and would not restart. It appeared to have seized. We agreed it should be allowed to cool down. I rang my son for a lift home.
When I changed the oil last Wednesday in my other Astra, after oil change the dip stick showed clean oil.
I wonder how long this engine will last?
They probably don't want to lose their best customer, Terry!I'm sure they little care, but the first 2.2 they collected lacked differential and gearbox. so was a bit underweight. Today's car was overweight, because I stuffed in the boot a dismantled print machine just to get rid of it.
On November 1st R.J. King, local scrap merchant, collected my last 2.2 Omega. On November 10th I couldn't find my hinged 1/2" ratchet spanner anywhere, wanted it to fit a drop link on my Astra; in the end I managed without it. Today November 12th R.J. King arrived to collect my rusty 2.6. The driver got out of his cab, waving in the air my lost 1/2" ratchet, which he said fell off the car when he unloaded. There's honesty.shrapnelI am on a roll...Retrieved Tech2 from that Gixer fellacould you nip and collect all the tools I've lent out to people in the past
while your on a roll
...I also retrieved my air rachet, my riveter, my box of rivets and my spare vac stuff. It was like xmas
Were they in your neighbour's garden?
I only ever get tools returned when I've long since replaced em
I wouldn't dare windy gun brake bleed nipples, they are hollow and easily broken off. I always use a T-bar to give an even torque and still use minimum force. If that fails I desist, give the caliper thereabouts a good hammering, and try again.https://www.tooled-up.com/sealey-16-piece-1-2-drive-deep-hexagon-walldrive-impact-socket-set-metric/prod/179065/?varId=179065&Referrer=googleproductsearch&gclid=EAIaIQobChMI77SWvp_M3gIV0sqyCh3QswxqEAQYAiABEgJ6MfD_BwE
Wow !
even includes the 11mm so you can windy-gun the bleed nipples on brakes
only 1/2 inch drive though , so not strong enough for tyre fitters to windy gun wheel nuts up to the required 1.000.000 N/m
I just buy single sockets now to replace the ones i've abused to failure
