Omega Owners Forum

Please login or register.

Login with username, password and session length
Advanced search  

News:

Please check the Forum Guidelines at the top of the Newbie section

Show Posts

This section allows you to view all posts made by this member. Note that you can only see posts made in areas you currently have access to.

Messages - Carfix

Pages: 1 2 3 4 5 6 [7] 8 9 10 11
91
I think the example shown on the thread is the worst anyone on the Jag forum had seen but it is someting a prospective buyer should have a good look at before buying.

As I said earlier mine is a 1999 model and when I examined the sills with the plastic sill covers off the rust was superficial.

The consensus on the forum also suggest that models from 2002 had "better" rustproofing (something about a hot zinc bath on the production line).

Hope this helps.

Note, I have run my S type  for years and the running costs are pretty similar to my Omega's but you have to shop around for the best deals.

Good luck  :y

92
I think this is the link to one of the Jaguar Forums showing the sill damage on a S Type.

http://www.jaguarforum.co.uk/viewtopic.php?f=16&t=46566&hilit=sill

93
Re the sills.

There have been a number of Jaguar Forum members who have reported rust holes in the sills (and some amazing pictures to show the problem). The problem is usually hidden behind the sill covers so the owner have no indication of the problem untill it is too late.  >:(

I also run a 1997 Rover 400 and a 1997 Honda Civic which also had major sill rot which was also hidden by plastic sill covers.

I am now a very good welder. :y

I now remove any sill covers off my cars every year, clean out all the rubbish that collects behind them and give the area a spray with a rustproofer like Waxoyl.

94
Omega General Help / Re: rear wheel adjustors unsieze
« on: 05 November 2011, 20:44:34 »
They can be a pig to get working. I have recently got all my adjusters (front and rear) working but I managed to break a vice doing it.  :(

I tried the heat method (a plumbers propane torch) which worked fine on the fronts but made no impact on the rears. I guess you need more heat (acetylene torch?).

In the end I used my sandblast cabinet to get rid of all the rust then a 3ft stilson wrench in a new heavy duty vice. Bingo.

Now thooughly greased up using copper grease.

Good luck.  :y


95
General Car Chat / Re: Gloucester scrappy
« on: 05 November 2011, 20:36:25 »
Yep, I remember Harry saying something along those lines. Shame, as some of the cars I have seen in there are in better condition than the ones I own. ;)

I removed a great deal of parts from a Honda Civic recently to keep my wife's motor going. It was a great car and I felt guilty gutting it.

96
Omega General Help / Re: Fuel Filter removal assistance please
« on: 05 November 2011, 20:33:06 »
Your not alone with this problem!!  :(

I dread changing the fuel filters on my Omega's and I have major problems disconnecting those plastic clips even with the correct tool (which I always end up bending).

Sometimes a connection will come apart easily but often I end up mangling one before it gives way. I am also concerned that the plastic connector on the end of each fuel line will snap and give me even more grief!!

I hate plastic fixings!! They are the work of the devil.  :o

97
General Car Chat / Re: Gloucester scrappy
« on: 05 November 2011, 20:24:15 »
A great "old fashioned" scrapyard where you can wander around at your leisure and the cars are not sat on top of each other and there is plenty of room between each car.

Be wary that he has quite a hefty through put of cars hence the cars don't last long (say 2-3 weeks) before being crushed.

When I last had a talk with Harry (about 6 months ago) about buying a complete car he told me that all his cars are for dismantling only and he could not (or would not) sell a complete car.

Still worth talking to him about the possibility of a complete purchase. He might of changed his mind?

98
As well as my Omega's I also run a 1999, S Type (3.0 V6 SE automatic). It's currently on 95K miles and I have had it for the last 8 years.   :y

I have been very impressed with it and apart from some out of service issues it has been reasonable to service and run (except the petrol costs).

There are a few well known problem areas. On mine i have done work on:

The battery lives in the boot (it's a big one and expensive) and they don't appear to last that long. Even though the car will start if the battery is on it's way out or below capacity you can get a host of dash warning messages predicting doom and gloom with just about every system in the car!! Don't panic, a new battery clears everything. Budget for a new one evey 2-3 years especially if the car doeas not get used every day.

There are individual coils attached to each spark plug. Due to poor water sealing around the windscsreen/scuttle area water gets channelled onto the rear coils and they fail. Individually, they are not very expensive (35 ish) but if you have to change all six or eight then ouch.

The windscreen wiper assembly seized up due to rust and lack of use!! Simply DIY job once the assembly is out of the car or a complete assembly replacement from the jaguar dealership. Reasonably cheap.

The radiator reservoir spung a leak and was replaced (very common problem), About 100

The suspension bushes at the front have a hard life and have been replaced 3 times to-date. These use to be extremely expensive but prices from dealears have fallen quite a bit over the past few years.

Front wheel bearing failure. Replaced mine twice to-date. Bugger to get bearing assembly out due to corrosion.

Rear suspension bushes also fail. Use to have to buy the complete assemblies which were very, very expensive but now you can just buy the bushes.

Some people have reported gearbox problems (especially on the facelift ZF boxes). Extremely expensive and can make the car an economic write-off.

Rear exhaust hangers rust thru leaving rear exhaust boxes unsupported. Easy and cheap fix if caught early.

Problems with the aircon. Some pipes fail due to rust where the pipe is attached to the body.

Problems with heater system. A valve assembly hidden in the engine bay can stick/fail. Very common problem but a reasonably easy fix.

Check for rust behind the plastic sill covers. Some horror stories reported there but mine have been ok. The rust proofing is not that good on these early cars. When I bought mine I spent quite some time adding additional rustproofing. Well worth it.

Generally, service items have been very reasonable and it is quite DIY friendly. I think both egines (2.5/3.0 V6 and 4.0 V8)use a timing chain rather than a timing belt for its engine system so no snapped belts to destroy the engine. Unfortunately, there is no Haynes manual but you can get hold of Jaguar Technical Service manuals and bulletins via the internet.

I would also try the Jaguar dealership first for parts as you can be pleasantly supprised at the low prices (Ford legacy) on service parts and there is a good after market suppliers which can also help to keep the costs down.

There are also a couple of good S type forums which offer plenty of good advice and "Jaguar" magazines which often have useful articles on the S type and gives you addresses of parts suppliers.

Hope this helps. :)

99
General Car Chat / Re: discs pads n stuff..
« on: 10 October 2011, 13:55:17 »
Like chrisgixer I always forget which way to turn the adjuster wheel even though I have done that job several times in the past. (I think it's old age)  :(

So last time I had the drums off I took a photo of each handbrake assembly, printed each off and annotated on the print which way was on and off. I then pasted the prints into my Haynes manual for future refernce.

Sorted!! :y

As a note. I have started to take a lot more pictures of various car assemblies when I do a job on the cars. I guess it's the advent of decent mobile phone cameras, digital cameras and printers. It certainly takes the guess work out when re-assembling.

100
Omega Electrical and Audio Help / Re: Recaro Heated seat pads
« on: 05 September 2011, 19:58:29 »
Waeco's have been good for me when I have retro-fitted them in various cars.  :y

Not yet tried the newer carbon element ones though.

101
Omega Electrical and Audio Help / Re: Electric mirror switch?
« on: 17 August 2011, 16:57:50 »
Neither of my mini-facelifts have the LED in the switch. Think it may have been deleted at that model year, 1998-99

102
Omega Electrical and Audio Help / Re: Fitting heated rear seats
« on: 01 July 2011, 11:38:40 »
The ones I used for the Rover were made by a company called Waeco and these use wired heater pads.

They were ok for the Rover as the seats don't have folds/creases in the foam bases/backs where the heater pads fit. This means the heater pads lay flat and have no kinks.

I have noticed that Waeco now do a carbon heater pad which I believe can be cut and shaped to fit more awkward seats. Don't know how effective they are but they are far more expensive at the moment.

Would they fit your car? My Omega's are pre-facelift so I don't know what the seats look like.

If you have the cloth seats then they may be ok. You need to look how the folds/creases are positioned.

The pads measured 31cm X 28cm (back rest) and 40cm x 28 cm (base) and there is a 1cm margin all round which could be cut off without getting near to close to the wired element. They are secured to the foam by wide double sided adhesive tape.

I don't know about the leather seats


Try Dave DND on this forum for help as I think he stocks heated seat kits.

103
Omega Electrical and Audio Help / Re: Fitting heated rear seats
« on: 30 June 2011, 15:18:36 »
Yep, just retro-fitted after market heated pads into a Rover 400. Nice and easy and wired into factory on/off switches.  :)

104
Omega Electrical and Audio Help / Re: Fitting heated rear seats
« on: 30 June 2011, 13:41:02 »
When I first got my CDX some 10 years ago I decided to retro-fit the rear seat heaters (for the kids- honest!). The CDX had cloth seats with only the fronts heated. Ironically, I have since replaced the cloth with leather (heated all round).

At that time all the parts were available from Vauxhall and as indicated above you only need a bit of loom, relays, centre console rear switch panel, 2X switches and heater pads.
I made a decision to only fit the heaters to the seat bases. (it was getting expensive!)

The hardes part of the whole job was getting the cloth material off the seat base foams (held on by little metal rings). Then it's sticking down the heater pad with double side tape then re-fitting the cloth with those pesky metal rings. Route the wire and away you go. :y


105
The problem of broken adjusters is not just a GM thing.

I have xenons on my Jaguar S-Type and all the adjusters have given up the ghost over the past 6 months. Lamps are original equipment and made by Hella (is this the same as the GM ones?)

I don't know if its the additional pot holes in the roads?

The replacement parts (complete unit) are around 450 each!!!

Obviously the adjusters are not sold seperately. So its out with the two pack apoxy until I can work out a better fix. :(

Pages: 1 2 3 4 5 6 [7] 8 9 10 11

Page created in 0.218 seconds with 20 queries.