Please login or register.
1 Hour 1 Day 1 Week 1 Month Forever
Login with username, password and session length

You can find stainless steel pipes here https://acsparts.biz/en/cooling-pipe-90411629-opel-ss/
Never used this ACS part but I'm sure it's the same quality level as their oil cooler

4 things to know, as it happened when I changed mine this summer :
- The new thermostat housing can have higher cast's dimensions where you put the bolts. I grinded the aluminum of the housing to reuse original bolts.
- The original pipe was very very difficult to remove, even if it was free from any bolt, still impossible to extract. I used a heatgun to locally heat the pipe where it's inside the thermostat housing, in order to dissolve the crap around the o-rings, and it finally worked, without breaking anything.
- Can be useful to remove the 3 electrical plugs aside the ECU box, to clear the space and access.
- New o-rings ordered separately felt very thin and I was not confident with them. I put some Loctite 5923 inside the housing (because if you put directly on the pipe you need too much dexterity to avoid choping the loctite when passing through the tunnel).

I don't know if I'm clear because I feel that I can use more precise vocabulary, which, as a French baguette, I don't have 

Very clear!   

Public transport

I know. I was thinking of getting the train over to Liverpool on Thursday, which might have been ok
But the thought of getting around once I was there put me right off the idea.

The standard hyper is card spool usually, not an issue, just make sure you don’t damage the edges.

This is similar to what id seen online. I may end up printing some spool rings to sit round them - and to use up the w@nk filament we have left over.

Oh, and to protectb bed sheet coating, use so print spray. My preferred is3dlac but glue sticks, hairspray, whatever. Suspect you use something on ender anyway

Honestly I never have. Rightly or wrongly I'd always seen warping / poor bed adhesion to be a sign I needed to dial in my settings better (gluesticks being a common crutch in this scenario from what I've seen) and my ender came with a magnetic flexi bed sheet which I'd considered to be a semi-consumable that I would replace as and when, given they are <£10. Never needed to though - it looks a bit tired now, but still fully functional after 2 yrs.

That said, the K2 is going to print an order of magnitude faster than the ender, so additional stick would probably come in handy. Looking at the 3DLAC - do you need to spray the bed every time, or is it a bit like rainex where a coating is formed that you topup periodically? Also, can you spray it on and leave it? With cloud access I can see me printing from remote locations (think the office when I should be working, but I'm not), so having the printer ready to go would be a plus.

Public transport

Oh, and to protectb bed sheet coating, use so print spray. My preferred is3dlac but glue sticks, hairspray, whatever. Suspect you use something on ender anyway

The standard hyper is card spool usually, not an issue, just make sure you don’t damage the edges.

I was gonna by to look at rfid tagging, not got around to it yet

Even if you don't refresh the rear suspension, you would be well advised to replace the rear track rods as they have a nasty habit of seizing solid.

You can find stainless steel pipes here https://acsparts.biz/en/cooling-pipe-90411629-opel-ss/
Never used this ACS part but I'm sure it's the same quality level as their oil cooler

4 things to know, as it happened when I changed mine this summer :
- The new thermostat housing can have higher cast's dimensions where you put the bolts. I grinded the aluminum of the housing to reuse original bolts.
- The original pipe was very very difficult to remove, even if it was free from any bolt, still impossible to extract. I used a heatgun to locally heat the pipe where it's inside the thermostat housing, in order to dissolve the crap around the o-rings, and it finally worked, without breaking anything.
- Can be useful to remove the 3 electrical plugs aside the ECU box, to clear the space and access.
- New o-rings ordered separately felt very thin and I was not confident with them. I put some Loctite 5923 inside the housing (because if you put directly on the pipe you need too much dexterity to avoid choping the loctite when passing through the tunnel).

I don't know if I'm clear because I feel that I can use more precise vocabulary, which, as a French baguette, I don't have 

Order placed with the official creality eBay store. Plus *some* of their hyper pla for £8.75 a roll, it's not the rfid stuff, but it was cheap and I bought a roll of rfid stickers so will have a go at tagging the rolls myself. Not the end of the world if it doesn't work. 

Thanks for the advice TB, I'm sure I'll be back on here to annoy you when I can't get the fu£ker to print properly 

Wow, your problem hobby is significantly more advanced than mine! I keep all my spooks in a 2 drawer filing cabinet! If that's all for home use, you must have just about everything 3d printed!

I think just the K2 and CFS will do me for now! Plus some filament obviously, and maybe a few other bits and pieces.