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You can find stainless steel pipes here https://acsparts.biz/en/cooling-pipe-90411629-opel-ss/
Never used this ACS part but I'm sure it's the same quality level as their oil cooler

4 things to know, as it happened when I changed mine this summer :
- The new thermostat housing can have higher cast's dimensions where you put the bolts. I grinded the aluminum of the housing to reuse original bolts.
- The original pipe was very very difficult to remove, even if it was free from any bolt, still impossible to extract. I used a heatgun to locally heat the pipe where it's inside the thermostat housing, in order to dissolve the crap around the o-rings, and it finally worked, without breaking anything.
- Can be useful to remove the 3 electrical plugs aside the ECU box, to clear the space and access.
- New o-rings ordered separately felt very thin and I was not confident with them. I put some Loctite 5923 inside the housing (because if you put directly on the pipe you need too much dexterity to avoid choping the loctite when passing through the tunnel).

I don't know if I'm clear because I feel that I can use more precise vocabulary, which, as a French baguette, I don't have 

Order placed with the official creality eBay store. Plus *some* of their hyper pla for £8.75 a roll, it's not the rfid stuff, but it was cheap and I bought a roll of rfid stickers so will have a go at tagging the rolls myself. Not the end of the world if it doesn't work. 

Thanks for the advice TB, I'm sure I'll be back on here to annoy you when I can't get the fu£ker to print properly 

Wow, your problem hobby is significantly more advanced than mine! I keep all my spooks in a 2 drawer filing cabinet! If that's all for home use, you must have just about everything 3d printed!

I think just the K2 and CFS will do me for now! Plus some filament obviously, and maybe a few other bits and pieces. 

Derek Martin 92 actor ,played many parts usually a cop or a villain

I was trawling through BBC I player " from the archives" only last week and came across "Law and Order " from the late 70's .
Key character in the three part series was a young Derek Martin .
More a docu-drama but set in London in the era it was a really good entertaining watch .
Frightening how the capital has changed in that time .
Well worth watching .
He was instantly recognisable and always a great performer .

 

And as Doctor Gollum says, the Thrust Angle (might be called something else on non-Hunter machines) absolutely must be 0'00, nothing else.

And as Doctor Gollum says, the Thrust Angle (might be called something else on non-Hunter machines) absolutely must be 0'00, nothing else.

WIM as we know it do not exist any more since the passing of Tony Bones.  I believe they are now just another STS outlet.

Anywhere with the proper machinery can do it, but get them to use WIM settings, not the default GM settings.

As promised, my setup. Yes, that space to left of top CFS is reserved for another when I can get one at a good price - I ain't paying £220 for one!




And I do have a filament fettish, this is my unopened pile, and doesn't show the 24 part used spools on the shelves....

Front springs are not body style a specific. There are a few variations according to the engine and trim.

You want a standard V6 front spring. More specifically you need 2 and unless they were recently changed, you would be well advised to do the front struts and wishbones. Haters will always hate, but this is what I fitted to my own Omegas and several for other people. It's not cheap, but it's a they only way to do it properly. The only thing not on the list is the Power flex front wishbone bushes. I would but you might choose not to.

Front shocks https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/303900706727
Bump stop https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/389407894145
Top mounts https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/267520937164
Front springs  https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/126057776492
Wishbones https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/388331065649
Poly bushes https://powerflexstore.co.uk/vauxhall/omega-b-1994-2003/powerflex-front-wishbone-front-bush-omega-b-1994-2003-pff80-902/
Rear end:
Rear springs https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/286902588255
Rear shocks https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/389362518864
Rear track rods x2 https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/365676388824

It's a days work on the drive, but a garage should be able to smash it out in a morning.

Once done it will need the alignment doing properly or you'll destroy tyres and hate the car for the way it drives.

Geometry settings are readily available on here but basically front toe (in) -0°03", front camber -1°10", and thrust angle 0° and not a second off.

When you add it all up, it's not a cheap exercise, but by the time you've taken the strut off to replace the spring and refitted everything and done the alignment, you may as well have done the lot. Notwithstanding the fact that only replacing one spring is the definition of retarded and dangerous, not to mention criminal.

All of that and it will drive like a brand new car.

Added the polybushes

Thanks for all that - ordered the top five to do the fronts, wishbone complete as I'm unsure of the true condition of mine.
Hopefully not need anything else at all.

I know WIM? sorted the alignments before, any thoughts who is worth using nearer me (Newark/Lincoln) ?

Oh, and use Creality's Soleyin for test prints, as when that is on offer properly, it works out about £40 for 6 spools

The white, however, is brilliantly coloured, but not the easiest to print.