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[Kevin Wood]

Did the pressure steadily increase across the rev range or hit 80 PSI at mid revs and then stabilise? Did you try measuring it cold too?

If it's steadily increasing with revs it's a classic symptom of a stuck relief valve. If not, the relief valve is controlling pressure, but wear, most likely in the bottom end bearings, has reduced the pressure at idle.

Changing the oil grade won't make any odds, IMHO. You might get a better pressure reading but at the expense of flow, i.e. less lubrication to the bearings.

Other than checking the relief valve, it's something you might as well live with for now, IMHO. If you start getting symptoms of bottom end wear then it's time to decide whether to stick some new shells in, take nit out and rebuild it or find another engine.

Incidentally, it would be interesting to put that gauge on the Silver Bullet and see how that's behaving following the rattly lifter issue.

[Kevin Wood]

As long as you've got some oil pressure at idle (I've known older cars and tractors which are only designed to have 3-5psi at idle) and aren't to bothered I live with it until the cambelt needs doing again then when it's stripped down I'd have a look at the pressure relief valve. I have to say it will get a lot worse (if it does get any worse at all) before it goes bang. Then just find another lump. Does it have inter Stella mileage on the lump.

Agreed. as long as you've got a couple of bar by the time the engine starts producing real torque (so 2200 RPM or so on a V6) it probably won't get any worse.

[feeutfo]

Well, got two others here to compare yours to.

Sounds like a plan, compared to TB's mine was loud.

.... wait a sec, two? You got another? Other than black?

Yes...yes...and no, don't be silly.

Black mv6 3.2. 120k so similar/closer miles to yours iirc. Might be worth bringing your oil pressure tester, see what this one reads...?

Pscocoa your more than welcome.

[tunnie]

To answer some of the above:

Little Fatty has my oil pressure tester (not one Debs kindly donated) - I did not get a chance to run pressure on mine when cold, we did compare to TBE, which was tad higher at idle, never really going below 25 Psi.

Pressure did increase steadily, although a tad jumpy as revs increased, although TBE displayed same characteristics when reving.

Bugger on the oil, if only i could make it a tad quieter I'd be happy 

[feeutfo]

Have you checked the relief valve?

I'm guessing access from the top would be easier. cam belt, tensioners, cam pullies, backplate, crank pulley will have to come off for starters.
Looking at how clean the engine was when the sump was off, I'd be extremely surprised to find a problem with the oil pump itself.

Plus sump pan and main casting, pick-up strainer, slacken off alternator and move to clear pump housing then you can access pump bolts

Fek me 

Does main casting off mean subframe off?

[doz]

If it was me and i was replacing the pump. I'd do the following

1/ strip front of engine down as I was attempting to carry out a cambelt.
2/ remove engine shield at the front.
3/ loosen off the engine mounts
4/ raise engine on a lift and support this should give enough room to get the sump low enough to get to the oil pick up
5/ unbolt the oil pump and replace.

Yea it's a right faff but better than dropping sub frame or taking engine right out.

What might make you swear is a new pump is 366 quid +VAT
Part number was 90410799 replaced by 90571901

If you want to take a chance on second hand one
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/VAUXHALL-OPEL-OMEGA-VECTRA-2-5-X25XE-V6-ENGINE-OIL-PUMP-GM-90410799-/310371261927?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item4843919de7#ht_1331wt_1166

[feeutfo]

I don't have an engine lift here, so that's that plan out.

[tunnie]

Not looking to do that amount of drastic work to be honest, I'll just learn to live with it if needs be

[feeutfo]

But I don't see too much difficulty getting to the relief valve, if this is the correct picture with relief valve assembly upper most...?  Or am I missing something!

[doz]

Relief valve is pretty straight forward but you do have to remove the timing cover. So it's plenum off, unbolt the wiring harness from the front and remove the associated pulley wheels. So a bit of a work up but nothing drastic. 

[tunnie]

That sounds much more reasonable

[feeutfo]

I think it's worth a try. Might find a busted spring, worn seal, gunge or sumat...?

[doz]

Or just stuck. MY LC one needed stripping and a rub with some fine emery cloth to remove the burrs

[tunnie]

If the spring is busted or an issue with gunge, can it be sorted without removing the pump?   

[feeutfo]

Looks like it, from the diag.

Plus I'm sure I've seen that cap head Torx from doing cam belts etc.