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Author Topic: Wheel Bearing??  (Read 1284 times)

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JamesV6CDX

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Wheel Bearing??
« on: 14 October 2016, 16:03:46 »

MV6 Estate.

When driving, nasty rumble over 60mph from the rear

This noise goes away completely if you take s harsh ish left hand bend at speed. Comes back the minute the cornering forces are gone.

Asked garage at time of the MOT to check. They couldn't find a fault

I today have checked both rear wheels with the back up in the air

No play, spin freely.

Still likely to be a bearing on the way out? If so, which side? (I don't know if the noise goes away when the weight shifts on to, or away from a wheel)

M thanks :y

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aaronjb

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Re: Wheel Bearing??
« Reply #1 on: 14 October 2016, 17:02:48 »

Left hand corner, left hand bearing (noise goes away when the weight comes off the bearing)

Same symptoms a friends car had - everything felt fine spinning the wheel right up until the bearing was well and truly FUBAR (which took a thousand or two miles IIRC!)
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Shackeng

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Re: Wheel Bearing??
« Reply #2 on: 14 October 2016, 18:30:06 »

Left hand corner, left hand bearing (noise goes away when the weight comes off the bearing)

Same symptoms a friends car had - everything felt fine spinning the wheel right up until the bearing was well and truly FUBAR (which took a thousand or two miles IIRC!)

Exactly what I thought when my TD estate had a similar problem, changed the side which I identified as above, guess what..... :-[ :-[ :-[ :y
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gstylebaby

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Re: Wheel Bearing??
« Reply #3 on: 14 October 2016, 20:23:47 »

My mv6 did exactly the same and changed mine and away it went..... in fact a bought another bearing to do the other side and never got round to fitting it as plan changed so that's in the garage somewhere lol. I got a full rear subframe that I refurb and that had good bearings and bushies in and then when I started the job found the car to be as rotten as a pear so that was that.
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Andy H

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Re: Wheel Bearing??
« Reply #4 on: 14 October 2016, 20:37:11 »

On my previous Omega saloon the inner brake pads had seized in the calipers due to rust and the inner faces of the brake discs were pitted. Changes in direction would make a noise that sounded like failed wheel bearings.

I would take the rear calipers off and check the discs and that the pads are free to move before looking deeper.
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Stargazer57N

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Re: Wheel Bearing??
« Reply #5 on: 15 October 2016, 00:54:17 »

MV6 Estate.


This noise goes away completely if you take s harsh ish left hand bend at speed. Comes back the minute the cornering forces are gone.

Asked garage at time of the MOT to check. They couldn't find a fault

I today have checked both rear wheels with the back up in the air



Nearside (Passenger side) wheel bearing will have gone. By cornering to the left (nearside) the vehicle weight is transferred to the offside reducing the pressure on the nearside bearing, hence why the noise goes away. This wont be found on an MOT unless there is excessive play or noise/roughness when the wheel is shaken or spun.
Normally it a case that the noise gets worse when cornering in a given direction, in your case to the offside (Drivers side).
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Shackeng

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Re: Wheel Bearing??
« Reply #6 on: 15 October 2016, 10:59:19 »

MV6 Estate.


This noise goes away completely if you take s harsh ish left hand bend at speed. Comes back the minute the cornering forces are gone.

Asked garage at time of the MOT to check. They couldn't find a fault

I today have checked both rear wheels with the back up in the air



Nearside (Passenger side) wheel bearing will have gone. By cornering to the left (nearside) the vehicle weight is transferred to the offside reducing the pressure on the nearside bearing, hence why the noise goes away. This wont be found on an MOT unless there is excessive play or noise/roughness when the wheel is shaken or spun.
Normally it a case that the noise gets worse when cornering in a given direction, in your case to the offside (Drivers side).

Exactly what I thought, yet it was the bearing on the opposite side that had gone! :o
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Doctor Gollum

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Re: Wheel Bearing??
« Reply #7 on: 15 October 2016, 13:08:11 »

The bearing goes quiet when loaded :y
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JamesV6CDX

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Re: Wheel Bearing??
« Reply #8 on: 15 October 2016, 13:18:56 »

Thanks gents

Does anyone have any links to suitable tools to do this job? :y

I may have the offer of a beefcake mate of mine to come over and lean on breaker bars etc next week :y

My head says it makes more sense to pay someone in here (probably Nick) to do it. But my stubborn little b@stard side makes me want to do it myself as its a job I've never tackled through being too nervous
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106pete

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Re: Wheel Bearing??
« Reply #9 on: 15 October 2016, 13:38:25 »

You don't need to be strong, just have the right gear or get lucky with something else that'll work.
I did mine the other day and put some info up http://www.omegaowners.com/forum/index.php?topic=137514.0
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Nick W

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Re: Wheel Bearing??
« Reply #10 on: 15 October 2016, 22:06:09 »

James to change rear wheel bearings you need:


Quality allen sockets to undo the drive shafts(you undoubtedly have these)


30mm 1/2" drive deep socket for the hub nut and a long breaker bar(at least 600mm, longer is better) to undo it, although every one I've done has been looser than the specified torque. You'll need a torque wrench that can manage 300NM to tighten it properly.


A means of pulling the drive flange. It's not tight, but you need to get it started: I use a modified Mini flywheel puller, but a thick bar bolted to the flange with a bolt to push against the hub will work.


Some means of extracting the hub. My past record of hammering this sort of part out is not good, which is why I made this tool to push it out:





Next is the circlip. This requires some large, stout pliers to get it moving, and then prying to get it out. The pliers are also needed to fit the new one. The ones with interchangeable tips are hopeless for this job.


The bearing isn't difficult with a suitable puller. Something like this LINK is good, and is a useful basis for other pulling jobs. It will fit the new bearing without any damage.


You'll almost certainly need to remove one of the bearing races from the hub. Some surgical work with an angle grinder is quickest, although a Dremel will eventually get the job done, then a cold chisel in the slot.


I pull the hub through the new bearing using its nut and some appropriate spacers(old bearing races bored to a loose fit).


A decent cordless impact wrench is very useful for much of this job, although a long handled 1/2" ratchet is almost as good.


I bought an unbranded bearing from ECP for about 20 quid. They sell an NSK bearing for 45 if you feel the need.


I understand your preference to do it yourself and will happily assist, especially if you do the preparation.

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JamesV6CDX

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Re: Wheel Bearing??
« Reply #11 on: 16 October 2016, 18:26:33 »

James to change rear wheel bearings you need:


Quality allen sockets to undo the drive shafts(you undoubtedly have these)


30mm 1/2" drive deep socket for the hub nut and a long breaker bar(at least 600mm, longer is better) to undo it, although every one I've done has been looser than the specified torque. You'll need a torque wrench that can manage 300NM to tighten it properly.


A means of pulling the drive flange. It's not tight, but you need to get it started: I use a modified Mini flywheel puller, but a thick bar bolted to the flange with a bolt to push against the hub will work.


Some means of extracting the hub. My past record of hammering this sort of part out is not good, which is why I made this tool to push it out:





Next is the circlip. This requires some large, stout pliers to get it moving, and then prying to get it out. The pliers are also needed to fit the new one. The ones with interchangeable tips are hopeless for this job.


The bearing isn't difficult with a suitable puller. Something like this LINK is good, and is a useful basis for other pulling jobs. It will fit the new bearing without any damage.


You'll almost certainly need to remove one of the bearing races from the hub. Some surgical work with an angle grinder is quickest, although a Dremel will eventually get the job done, then a cold chisel in the slot.


I pull the hub through the new bearing using its nut and some appropriate spacers(old bearing races bored to a loose fit).


A decent cordless impact wrench is very useful for much of this job, although a long handled 1/2" ratchet is almost as good.


I bought an unbranded bearing from ECP for about 20 quid. They sell an NSK bearing for 45 if you feel the need.


I understand your preference to do it yourself and will happily assist, especially if you do the preparation.

Nick thanks for such an informative post!

Thinking about my options :y
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JamesV6CDX

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Re: Wheel Bearing??
« Reply #12 on: 16 October 2016, 18:28:26 »

For extracting the hub, can you not just screw in some long bolts where the wheel studs go and e evenly tighten them, to extract it? :y
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Nick W

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Re: Wheel Bearing??
« Reply #13 on: 16 October 2016, 19:53:47 »

For extracting the hub, can you not just screw in some long bolts where the wheel studs go and e evenly tighten them, to extract it? :y


You can if you consider this:


M12x1.5 is only common on cars, and is considered special elsewhere. So you'll struggle to find long bolts.
The wheel PCD is largely outboard of anything reasonably strong to push against.
You risk stripping the wheel threads or distorting the hub flange if you get the hub cocked in the bearing. Which is easy when the holes aren't opposite each other


Those are the reasons I stopped trying that method(after about 90minutes of effort) and knocked up my hub extractor. There's about 10 minutes 'work' in that, all materials were in the scrap bin, no measuring was done, and 30 seconds after bolting it to the trailing arm I had the hub in my hand. And I had to hope that running a tap through the damaged thread was going to restore it.
« Last Edit: 16 October 2016, 19:55:48 by Nick W »
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Doctor Gollum

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Re: Wheel Bearing??
« Reply #14 on: 16 October 2016, 21:36:09 »

Omega front strut to hub carrier bolts worked on the BM but does require somewhere solid to land them ;)
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Re: Wheel Bearing??
« Reply #15 on: 17 October 2016, 06:59:57 »

I've had the same as James, whine/noise from bearing but no play. Reason seemed to be water had got inside the bearing and corroded races. Very bad looking but no play whatsoever.

And, just to remind: use ONLY well-known brands, as SKF. Cheapo ones do not tighten properly and after this kind of a extreme operation you certainly do not want to do it all over again just for a bad bearing.
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Andy H

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Re: Wheel Bearing??
« Reply #16 on: 05 July 2018, 07:39:52 »

James didn't feel able to do the bearing change so he sold the car. I bought it and have been using it as my daily driver for over a year.

Last week the noise changed. It is too loud to ignore now so today's task is to fit the bearing that James very generously included in the sale (I just hope he was supplied with the right one).

I still don't know which bearing it is (left rear, right rear or prop centre) so the first task will be to get the car up on axle stands and get the wheels spinning (must remember to press the TC button first..........)
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Shackeng

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Re: Wheel Bearing??
« Reply #17 on: 05 July 2018, 17:44:13 »

In the meantime, I found turning the music volume up fixed the bearing for a few months. ::)
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Andy H

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Re: Wheel Bearing??
« Reply #18 on: 05 July 2018, 17:57:40 »

In the meantime, I found turning the music volume up fixed the bearing for a few months. ::)
That worked well (until last week) ;D
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Andy H

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Re: Wheel Bearing??
« Reply #19 on: 05 July 2018, 18:05:06 »

Much to my relief the job is progressing as planned.

There was a brief interlude when I couldn't get the brake disc/drum to let go of the hub and a longer interlude when I discovered that I couldn't use my triple-square spline bit to get the backplate bolts out because the hub was in the way.

The new bearing is safely installed and the hub/shaft is half pulled in to place. Having another interlude now while assisting with the monsters dinner/bath/bedtime. Once they are tucked up in bed I should be able to finish putting it all back together :y
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Shackeng

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Re: Wheel Bearing??
« Reply #20 on: 05 July 2018, 18:17:14 »

Well done Andy. :y I must admit, I paid my local Indy 40 to do mine. :-[
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Andy H

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Re: Wheel Bearing??
« Reply #21 on: 06 July 2018, 08:50:04 »

Well done Andy. :y I must admit, I paid my local Indy 40 to do mine. :-[
40?
He won't be in a hurry to do the other side at that price  ;D
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Andy H

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Re: Wheel Bearing??
« Reply #22 on: 06 July 2018, 11:07:50 »

Finished at 10pm :) then noticed that there was a locking washer left over that I should have fitted to the drive shaft nut after I had torqued it up to 220 ft lb >:(

After stopping   for something to eat I took the CV joint off again to fit the washer and finally finished at midnight
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Shackeng

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Re: Wheel Bearing??
« Reply #23 on: 06 July 2018, 19:50:38 »

Well done Andy. :y I must admit, I paid my local Indy 40 to do mine. :-[
40?
He won't be in a hurry to do the other side at that price  ;D

He did the other side for the same price when it turned out to be the wrong one first time. ::)
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Shackeng

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Re: Wheel Bearing??
« Reply #24 on: 06 July 2018, 22:26:09 »

The bearing goes quiet when loaded :y

Last one I did on a Renault 16, loading increased the noise, hence my diagnosis, albeit based on 40 year old experience. :y
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Re: Wheel Bearing??
« Reply #25 on: 07 July 2018, 07:57:45 »

Same with the o/s front bearing on my V70.Noise present at all times but corner it so weight transferred over o/s wheel and noise increased.Replaced o/s bearing and all good again.
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Re: Wheel Bearing??
« Reply #26 on: 07 July 2018, 15:07:04 »

Same with the o/s front bearing on my V70.Noise present at all times but corner it so weight transferred over o/s wheel and noise increased.Replaced o/s bearing and all good again.
Loads are different front and rear... Also the Omega stub axle is secured from behind, whereas WWD and others tend to have the nut OUTSIDE.  ;)
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