Print

Please login or register.
1 Hour 1 Day 1 Week 1 Month Forever
Login with username, password and session length

[neil74]

Reminds me of my white 2.5 manual senator. when started from cold it would cut out immediately until it warmed up. also the handbrake barely worked on one side and it was always fun to try to start the car from cold on a hill. I was nagged into selling it by my sisters current boyfriend at the time and to top it off he had already borrowed my previous black 3.0 one and managed to tear the seat back and stuff one of the rear doors in.

[Steve Brookman]

Another MOT passed today!

[Steve Brookman]

Update.

Senator and Royale used daily in rotation. Both going well-had an issue with the Royale cutting out-but a second hand ECU that I had in the garage cured this. Sold my Range Rover-only did 800 miles in one year-so Senator and Royale will be used more.

Royale's MOT is up in a month and it may need a bit of welding to the ends of the sills.


Love driving both cars-gets lots of looks and comments-both easily keep up with traffic and the Senator in particular is supremely comfortable. Only downside is that they both like a drink!



Steve

[cam.in.head]

Hi Steve. Great to hear both cars are up and running well.
Hope I'm not the bringer of doom here (or more unforeseen work !) but when you mention that the royale responded to an ecu swap I was just wondering !.
The area where the Ecu sits is very prone to getting wet .either from a windscreen corner seal leak (easy fix) or the double skinned area behind the front wing a panel / behind the inner wing reinforcement triangle.this rotted on both my senators and Carlton and was a bugger to reach as it's an inside job and quite high up behind the lower dash.(easier on the passenger side thou)
Can be easily checked with a torch from inside the car if needs be.
Just wondered if this was what caused the original ecu to fail .dont want it to happen again to the new one.
Also worth making sure the ecu has a plastic sheet over the top of it anyway (as original) to stop any water drips be them leaks or just good old condensation.

[Steve Brookman]

Thanks Chris-great to hear from you again-how's things?
I haven't noticed any water-but will definitely have a look today as its pouring down.

Regards Steve

[cam.in.head]

Hi Steve . Yes I’m fine thanks. Glad you are too .
Yes today is a good time to check for water leaks as last nights downpour should have certainly found them if there were any !
Happy hunting !

[Steve Brookman]

No water!

Had a prod underneath as MOT in a month-found a hole. Will have to practise my MIG welding i think.





Steve

[Doctor Gollum]

That will learn you... Incidentally, if that's what the rear chassis rail looks like, expect more of the same at the front

[cam.in.head]

Hi steve. Common area on senators there although it usually starts on the bottom section that wraps under.(where the handbrake cable passes by).its a double skinned section so a moisture trap.strangely thou i bet the other side of the car is fine !.
Should be a doddle to someone like you thou especially if it is only the side as its easy to work on .
Realy thou to be 100% safe its a fuel tank out job
Never had any issues with senators on the front chassis rails but seen plenty on later carltons.

[Steve Brookman]

Not been online for a while.

Update on vehicles.

Royale not welded yet-had  petrol tank leak-pinhole at bottom-drained and used some petrol tank putty-time will tell if it worked.

Senator out to Aldis on Sunday. Fine on the way-initially started after shopping then cut out. Thought it was the problem I get with it that if it is left for a while after being warm  it takes a lot of cranking to start-usually instantaneous starting when cold (changed everything-ECU, cold start sensor, air flow meter- apart from injectors-could possibly be a leaky injector-or perhaps a s someone said dodgy wiring at the pump).
 
Tried a few times but not catching.
 Walked home got a few tools (myself included) and went back in the Sierra. Took out plugs-bone dry. Checked fuses and hit relays-still nothing. Got underneath and bashed the fuel pum0p and started immediately.
 
So new pump and filter ordered. The design on these is crap-the filter comes after the pump-so any shit in the tank hits the pump first.
 
Steve

[Steve Brookman]

Still having problems starting with the Senator (3.0 injection).

Usually starts immediately from cold-but when warm and left for a while-takes up to 5 seconds of churning for it to start -when warm/hot and left for a few mins-it starts immediately. It's now started to do it when cold.

Have changed coolant sensor, ecu, MAF, petrol pump, filter and removed the petrol pressure damper.

Did think I had fixed it once when it wouldn't start in the local Aldis' Hit the pump with my jack handle and it started immediately hot or cold. I suspected the pump, put a new one on and it was perfect for about a month-then it went back to it's old ways.

Next think I am going to try is running the car from a petrol can, i.e. disconnecting the pipe from the tank and extending it to put into a petrol jack. This will hopefully see whether or not I've got a problem with the pick up in the tank or the tank itself. The tank was resealed before i got it.

Will keep informed.

Steve

[dave the builder]

2 some things
1, have you swapped the fuel pump relay , very common
2, have you bypassed the fuel pump relay(so it runs constantly)  and given the plug at the pump a wiggle ,if it is a poor connection on the 2 pin plug (also very common) the pump may cut out /start up ,i read you put a new pump in ,but the plug to pump contacts is poor .
i also recall some get a dry joint on the fat starter motor positive cable (needs re-soldering )
also also  all earth points around the engine bay etc may need a clean up ,and the earth strap on the alternator may want beefing up

also also also  a tired battery will not help

[Steve Brookman]

Thanks Dave,

New relay (also checked on my Royale). New connectors on pump-was also thinking of running another earth wire to pump. will also rig test lamp to pump to see if it kicks in immediately when cranking.

Many thanks

Steve

[Steve Brookman]

Have been using the Senator back and forth to work this week. Still a pain to start even when cold. Only fires instantly if left for 15 mins or so.
Went to start it in work and on spinning over it made a "phut" sound- similar to the sound when an engine backfires through the carb when the timing is way out. It then started.

Will have to investigate a bit further!

Steve

[cam.in.head]

Hi steve. As Dave mentioned check starter motor connections .they are crimped into the lugs and can work loose .also the injection loom earth on the side of the inlet manifold.
.might be worth running a wire from the fuel pump live to the inside of car and putting a bulb on it to monitor wether it gets power whilst you have the issue.dont neglect to check the pump negative lead either.or replace it to be sure to a new cleaned point nearby.
I have had very similar issues in the past on these injection systems whereby it was caused by either sticky or leaking injectors .(leaking through into the manifold not externally)
Also check that the airflow meter flap is not sticky.it can be reached by removing the big flexi.
 Other than that it’s handy that you have the royale.if I remember correctly it’s also a 3 litre of similar age so parts can be exchanged between if needs be for free .
Other things to check that you have more than likely checked already..........air leaks from gaskets ,injector base o rings,servo hose(very common),airflow meter big flexi hose,pressure build up in crankcase due to blocked valve cover mesh/ breather,vacuum build up in fuel tank vents due to blocked breather,split in fuel pressure valve vacuum hose,split in auto gearbox vacuum valve hose(leads to small metal pipe near top back of inlet manifold,incorrect throttle stop screw ,faulty idle air valve or hoses.
A bit to have a go at there steve. Happy hunting mate