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Author Topic: Rubber seal around the tailgate window  (Read 711 times)

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johnnydog

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Re: Rubber seal around the tailgate window
« Reply #15 on: 09 July 2018, 23:44:30 »

If you think there are contaminants in the final coat of lacquer, you can flat the laquer down gently with no problems as long as you don't go through to the colour coat, and then reapply a few more light coats, or the marks may come out with flatting, depending how big or deep they are. You could try rubbing the 1500 grit on something like a wet stone or something like a smooth stone from the garden to just take the grit down a bit, or you could use it in conjunction with a bar of household soap. Wipe the wet /dry paper on the bar of soap before you put it to the fresh paint, but go gently preferably with a block on the flat areas, or as best as you can keep your hand as flat as possible. Whilst the paint is still relatively fresh, if you are not careful, because your fingers aren't a flat area, where the pressure is greater under your fingertips, then this area will remove more laquer and leave lines if you go at it too harshly.
Alternatively because it is still quite fresh, use a finer cutting compound, and keep the cloth in a pad shape as flat as possible. But whatever, because it won't have hardened fully, go gently and you should be ok.
Sunday is a good few days off yet, so I would say it should be reasonably hard to compound it reasonably well in time for you going away, or you could always leave the compounding until you get back by which time it should be hard enough to go at it more vigorously! I would leave putting any polish on it until you come back, but keep your eye on it for any bird crap falling on it which will eat into soft fresh paint quickly. I would also avoid parking it it under any trees if at all possible too because of the tree sap.
I'm sure it will look fine when it all gets assembled!
« Last Edit: 09 July 2018, 23:52:35 by johnnydog »
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Nick W

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Re: Rubber seal around the tailgate window
« Reply #16 on: 09 July 2018, 23:49:37 »

I've never used 2000g paper,1200grit with plenty of soapy water and G3 compound by hand(on a small panel!) is perfectly adequate. It doesn't take much; as soon as the paper affects the whole surface, you need to swap to the next grade of abrasive. One of the silicone water blades that valeters use is very handy for this step, as you want to remove as little paint as possible. If painting with rattle cans, I'd only flat and polish paint that had a very poor finish.


I must polish the panels I painted(with a spray gun and 2k paint) on the Metro.
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johnnydog

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Re: Rubber seal around the tailgate window
« Reply #17 on: 10 July 2018, 00:07:28 »

Just another point, before you start with your wet and dry paper, leave ithe paper to soak for a while in the water to soften. Doing this reduces the risk of the corners digging into thr new paint whilst flatting, which will then need more serious remedies.
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tigers_gonads

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Re: Rubber seal around the tailgate window
« Reply #18 on: 10 July 2018, 09:49:54 »

Oh for the want of a garage were I can do all this stuff  :(

Okay, i've had a good look at it this morning and i'm chuffed to bits with the top and sides but I believe the main surface could do with the last half of can of lacquer so my intention is to firstly water the plants to keep the dust floating about, wipe the crap off the panel then finish the can off while the metal is warm :y

I've already dropped a new sheet of 1500 grit paper in a bucket c/w plenty of soap for when its time  :y

Question about the G3 ?

I have a machine polisher here at the moment which I was going to give the headlights a going over with.
Can I use G3 (with plenty of water) after the 1500 grit paper or is the machine polisher too much at this stage ?

TIA  :)
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Nick W

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Re: Rubber seal around the tailgate window
« Reply #19 on: 10 July 2018, 10:04:13 »

G3 works better if used with a polisher. But on a small surface, or plastic doing it by hand is easier. It doesn't need water, just a damp cloth; it's a thin paste that breaks down as you work it, which doesn't happen if you make it liquid.


The paper will work better if you use it on a block rather than just your hand. There are lots of expensive blocks you can buy, or you can improvise with wood or stiff foam.
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tigers_gonads

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Re: Rubber seal around the tailgate window
« Reply #20 on: 10 July 2018, 10:09:05 »

G3 works better if used with a polisher. But on a small surface, or plastic doing it by hand is easier. It doesn't need water, just a damp cloth; it's a thin paste that breaks down as you work it, which doesn't happen if you make it liquid.


The paper will work better if you use it on a block rather than just your hand. There are lots of expensive blocks you can buy, or you can improvise with wood or stiff foam.



I've got a couple of old foam blocks so i'll wrap the wet paper in that  :y

The G3 i've got is in a bottle  :-\
Is that okay ?
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Nick W

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Re: Rubber seal around the tailgate window
« Reply #21 on: 10 July 2018, 10:16:22 »


I've got a couple of old foam blocks so i'll wrap the wet paper in that  :y

The G3 i've got is in a bottle  :-\
Is that okay ?


Yes.
But you will have to squeeze some out for it to work......
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tigers_gonads

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Re: Rubber seal around the tailgate window
« Reply #22 on: 10 July 2018, 10:20:16 »


I've got a couple of old foam blocks so i'll wrap the wet paper in that  :y

The G3 i've got is in a bottle  :-\
Is that okay ?


Yes.
But you will have to squeeze some out for it to work......




Okay, thanks  :)
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johnnydog

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Re: Rubber seal around the tailgate window
« Reply #23 on: 10 July 2018, 10:57:42 »

Personally, unless you have used a machine polisher before and are relatively experienced with one, I would do the compounding by hand especially with new paint. It is so easy to either burn the paint or go through to the base coat (colour) or the primer on the raised areas, or edges.
Don't forget the paint will still be relatively soft, and a machine polisher can be quite aggressive if used incorrectly. It is easier to control your hand than a machine!
There are different machine polishers - the type with two handles which in my opinion aren't really suited to smaller areas of body panels, or the type which look like an angle grinder. You need to use the correct grade of foam pad depending on what you are polishing, but the polisher needs to have a variable speed control as the speed should be quite low so that the paint doesn't get burnt!
I would suggest practising using the machine polisher on an old car or old body panel (or someone else's car :D!!) to get used to it before doing your fresh new paint!
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tigers_gonads

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Re: Rubber seal around the tailgate window
« Reply #24 on: 10 July 2018, 11:40:29 »

Personally, unless you have used a machine polisher before and are relatively experienced with one, I would do the compounding by hand especially with new paint. It is so easy to either burn the paint or go through to the base coat (colour) or the primer on the raised areas, or edges.
Don't forget the paint will still be relatively soft, and a machine polisher can be quite aggressive if used incorrectly. It is easier to control your hand than a machine!
There are different machine polishers - the type with two handles which in my opinion aren't really suited to smaller areas of body panels, or the type which look like an angle grinder. You need to use the correct grade of foam pad depending on what you are polishing, but the polisher needs to have a variable speed control as the speed should be quite low so that the paint doesn't get burnt!
I would suggest practising using the machine polisher on an old car or old body panel (or someone else's car :D!!) to get used to it before doing your fresh new paint!





The polisher is large angle grinder type with variable speed.

I normally drag in a helper c/w puffer bottle full of water to make sure it doesn't get too hot  :y :y
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Re: Rubber seal around the tailgate window
« Reply #25 on: 13 July 2018, 15:05:42 »

Okay, a quick update
Been working but here is the jist of things ...........

Everything painted.
Colour looks like a great match.
Gave everything a light rub down with 1500 grit paper that had been sat in soapy water overnight.
Everything now is smooth to the touch.
Intend to cut it back a little with some G3 tomorrow if I get chance then rebuild and fit.
Soft polish next week while i'm away  :y
Would have liked to have got more lacquer on the main part but we will see how it looks when its polished up  :y

As always, thanks lads  :)
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