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Author Topic: Repairing the front central locking motor  (Read 600 times)

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Andy A

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Repairing the front central locking motor
« on: 05 July 2018, 10:48:45 »

On the drivers side there is a brown plastic cover, how vital is it?

Mine has just broke off.
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tigers_gonads

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Re: Repairing the front central locking motor
« Reply #1 on: 05 July 2018, 10:51:51 »

I know there is a brown one which clips around the lock mech on mine.
Mine was shall we say damaged when I changed my solidoid and its been sat in the glovebox ever since with now problems  ;)
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Kevin Wood

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Re: Repairing the front central locking motor
« Reply #2 on: 05 July 2018, 10:53:28 »

I think it's there to deflect drips from the lock mechanism so you might find it seizes up. At least give it a good greasing on reassembly.
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tigers_gonads

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Re: Repairing the front central locking motor
« Reply #3 on: 05 July 2018, 10:58:36 »

I think it's there to deflect drips from the lock mechanism so you might find it seizes up. At least give it a good greasing on reassembly.



Oh it got well and truly blathered in grease on mine  ;)
Along with every other place I thought water could go including the bottom of the door  ;D
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robson

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Re: Repairing the front central locking motor
« Reply #4 on: 05 July 2018, 12:24:39 »

I thought that cover was an anti theft device to stop access by thieves with wire coat hangers.
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Re: Repairing the front central locking motor
« Reply #5 on: 05 July 2018, 13:48:07 »

I thought that cover was an anti theft device to stop access by thieves with wire coat hangers.




You might be right there  :-\
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Re: Repairing the front central locking motor
« Reply #6 on: 05 July 2018, 14:27:47 »

I thought that cover was an anti theft device to stop access by thieves with wire coat hangers.
This...  :y
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Andy A

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Re: Repairing the front central locking motor
« Reply #7 on: 05 July 2018, 17:34:29 »

The cover can stay off.

Got another problem now. Tested the 2 old switches againt the new ones and they work the same. Not the switches. Tested actuator motor with 9V battery and that seems to work OK.

I can lock the drivers door with key and all doors lock and unlock as they should. If I use the remote the other three doors lock and then unlock them selves straight away. Drivers door is non responsive using the key fob.

Only thing I can think of is a broken wire.

Anyone know the colour codes for the drivers side central locking wiring?
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Re: Repairing the front central locking motor
« Reply #8 on: 06 July 2018, 00:24:51 »

Haynes.  ;)
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Andy A

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Re: Repairing the front central locking motor
« Reply #9 on: 06 July 2018, 07:50:59 »

Haynes.  ;)

Al, did they follow the same colour code from the pfl to the fl?
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dave the builder

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Re: Repairing the front central locking motor
« Reply #10 on: 06 July 2018, 08:29:23 »

I had that same problem when i first got my 2.6
I thought it would be one of the micro switches at the barrel 
but my door was dented ,so i replaced the whole door
 and the pin switch for the courtesy lights by the hinge,problem solved  ;D
does the door solenoid work both ways when tested (in and out ) :-\

plus you could just try the pin switch
the door opeen (so the pin switch makes ground would give the same fault result
(doors locking but opening again strait away )
or any other pin switch ,boot,bonnet,all doors  :-\
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Andy A

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Re: Repairing the front central locking motor
« Reply #11 on: 06 July 2018, 08:56:21 »

I had that same problem when i first got my 2.6
I thought it would be one of the micro switches at the barrel 
but my door was dented ,so i replaced the whole door
 and the pin switch for the courtesy lights by the hinge,problem solved  ;D
does the door solenoid work both ways when tested (in and out ) :-\

plus you could just try the pin switch
the door opeen (so the pin switch makes ground would give the same fault result
(doors locking but opening again strait away )
or any other pin switch ,boot,bonnet,all doors  :-\

Yes, connected a 9V battery on motor terminals both ways and all worked fine.

Just checked the pin switch and it turns the courtesy light on and off.

I'll check the bonnet and boot later when I have more time and get back to you.

Thanks
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Re: Repairing the front central locking motor
« Reply #12 on: 07 July 2018, 13:02:21 »

The cover can stay off.

Got another problem now. Tested the 2 old switches againt the new ones and they work the same. Not the switches. Tested actuator motor with 9V battery and that seems to work OK.

I can lock the drivers door with key and all doors lock and unlock as they should. If I use the remote the other three doors lock and then unlock them selves straight away. Drivers door is non responsive using the key fob.

Only thing I can think of is a broken wire.

Anyone know the colour codes for the drivers side central locking wiring?
I still reckon switches - they often still read right on meter, but with current, they fail.
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Andy A

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Re: Repairing the front central locking motor
« Reply #13 on: 08 July 2018, 08:28:48 »

The cover can stay off.

Got another problem now. Tested the 2 old switches againt the new ones and they work the same. Not the switches. Tested actuator motor with 9V battery and that seems to work OK.

I can lock the drivers door with key and all doors lock and unlock as they should. If I use the remote the other three doors lock and then unlock them selves straight away. Drivers door is non responsive using the key fob.

Only thing I can think of is a broken wire.

Anyone know the colour codes for the drivers side central locking wiring?
I still reckon switches - they often still read right on meter, but with current, they fail.

I've got 2 new switches here, I'll put them in later and see if it fixes the problem. The funny thing is the actuator started working again yesterday all day without a problem. Prior to that it was dead for days. So that rules out my broken wire theory.
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dave the builder

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Re: Repairing the front central locking motor
« Reply #14 on: 08 July 2018, 09:45:24 »

The cover can stay off.

Got another problem now. Tested the 2 old switches againt the new ones and they work the same. Not the switches. Tested actuator motor with 9V battery and that seems to work OK.

I can lock the drivers door with key and all doors lock and unlock as they should. If I use the remote the other three doors lock and then unlock them selves straight away. Drivers door is non responsive using the key fob.

Only thing I can think of is a broken wire.

Anyone know the colour codes for the drivers side central locking wiring?
I still reckon switches - they often still read right on meter, but with current, they fail.

I've got 2 new switches here, I'll put them in later and see if it fixes the problem. The funny thing is the actuator started working again yesterday all day without a problem. Prior to that it was dead for days. So that rules out my broken wire theory.
Not really ,the broken wire theory is valid ,because it can make and brake contact randomly ,particularly if broke in the door shut loom , opening the door moves the broken wire , but the micro switches at the barrel are easy to replace (relatively speaking)
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