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Author Topic: Rattle can spraying  (Read 537 times)

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tigers_gonads

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Rattle can spraying
« on: 05 July 2018, 13:46:53 »

I've got a front / back bumper, tailgate / spoiler and a side skirt to do .........

How hot is too hot for spraying ?
Its getting done in the back garden because i've knowhere else sadly and the panels are pretty hot to the touch  :-\
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deviator

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Re: Rattle can spraying
« Reply #1 on: 05 July 2018, 13:54:35 »

That is a lot to do with rattle cans, even without the heat. I hope you bought a plastic trigger for the cans or you fingers will kill by the end of it.
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tigers_gonads

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Re: Rattle can spraying
« Reply #2 on: 05 July 2018, 14:02:36 »

That is a lot to do with rattle cans, even without the heat. I hope you bought a plastic trigger for the cans or you fingers will kill by the end of it.




 ;D  Unless I get a phone call for work, i've got a few days to play with  ;D


Anyway, the tailgate has been sat in the tin shed for 6 years so its not like i'm going to be rushing  ;D
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Keith ABS

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Re: Rattle can spraying
« Reply #3 on: 05 July 2018, 15:12:54 »

 Way to hot for spraying.
About 8am is a good temp at the moment but don't expect a good finish with having o do such large areas

Keith ABS
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Re: Rattle can spraying
« Reply #4 on: 05 July 2018, 15:53:44 »

Is it feasible to paint small areas with rattle cans, keith? I have in mind corners of my bumpers  about a foot long and six inches tall.

Ron.
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Re: Rattle can spraying
« Reply #5 on: 05 July 2018, 16:09:33 »

Is it feasible to paint small areas with rattle cans, keith? I have in mind corners of my bumpers  about a foot long and six inches tall.

Ron.
Absolutely :y

But as with regular spraying, the results are only as good as the prep work... Also colour plays a significant part...
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tigers_gonads

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Re: Rattle can spraying
« Reply #6 on: 05 July 2018, 16:14:42 »

Is it feasible to paint small areas with rattle cans, keith? I have in mind corners of my bumpers  about a foot long and six inches tall.

Ron.



Yup, no problem  :y

As Al says, take your time and prep it properly.
DON'T put too much paint on in one go.
Build it up slowly  ;)

I've just stripped, washed, degreased, keyed with scotchbrite, panel wiped and put the first coat of colour on the inside of the tailgate  :y
Gone on quite well and (upto now) no reactions  :y
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Bigron

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Re: Rattle can spraying
« Reply #7 on: 05 July 2018, 16:19:16 »

Understood, gents. I'll get it as smooth as a civil servant's trouser seat first, then de-dust/degrease it before spraying.
Is "panel wipe" the stuff that Edd China oes on about in Wheeler Dealers?

Ron.
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Re: Rattle can spraying
« Reply #8 on: 05 July 2018, 16:20:59 »

Understood, gents. I'll get it as smooth as a civil servant's trouser seat first, then de-dust/degrease it before spraying.
Is "panel wipe" the stuff that Edd China oes on about in Wheeler Dealers?

Ron.




Yup  :y

I've just paid under 10 quid for 5 litres  :y
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Re: Rattle can spraying
« Reply #9 on: 05 July 2018, 17:12:48 »

Ive found silver (bigron,s colour) to be about the most difficult colour to match / blend in. Ive done a couple of small areas on my rubens red version and it  blended in quite nicely.
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Re: Rattle can spraying
« Reply #10 on: 05 July 2018, 17:16:02 »

Even I can match Vauxhall white :D
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Re: Rattle can spraying
« Reply #11 on: 05 July 2018, 17:18:49 »

Just a update, this tailgate is off a R reg  ::) and has the black plastic trim on the outside.


How do these come off ?
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zirk

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Re: Rattle can spraying
« Reply #12 on: 05 July 2018, 18:12:31 »

Even I can match Vauxhall white :D
  :y :y

White, assuming its not faded into cream, and Black (Plain Black) are probably to 2 colours that are most forgiving with Rattle Cans. in fact most Non Metallic colours work well, although Red can be an arse if its been Sun bleached.

Once you mention the word "Metallic" its starts to tricky, as you trying to match the Metallic reflection it gives off as well as the Spray Can pattern, having said that Silver is not a bad Metallic to spray if its done sparingly, bit by bit with some wash in (over spray) into the existing panel.

But as you say Al, its all about Prep Work, then more Prep, and getting the Clear Coat to look good, if at the end of the day its not going to happen, best bet is do all the Prep and Primer work done yourself and then get some quotes for a Pro just to blow it over in the Base Colour and Top Coat.  ;)
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Re: Rattle can spraying
« Reply #13 on: 05 July 2018, 20:21:44 »

Main problem once you have mastered the art of getting a good finish is keeping it shiny.ordinary clear laquer and even the 2k aerosol clearcoats seem to go dull after a few months.they can be hand or machine polished up to near perfection but never seem to keep that perfection for long and the trouble is itís so easy to wear through due to being much thinner than gun applied paint.you could put more coats on but then you run the risk of cracking .
I was thinking along the similar lines as last post in doing repairs myself,even applying basecoat if poss and then just having a body shop apply a clear coat.
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Diamond Black Geezer

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Re: Rattle can spraying
« Reply #14 on: 05 July 2018, 23:12:59 »

Remove the trims with a decent paint scraper. You can use it like a chisel, going upwards in short 'steps', however that's a lonnng process. Much better to go left to right, scraping through a few mm of the adhesive as you go. Ten times easier in warm weather, too. Each strip (one at the top one at the bottom) is something like 8 - 12mm deep, so it wont take long to do.

Also don't be tempted to peel if off from one end, you'll permanently distort the trim, bending it into a gentle arc. Go gently,  :y

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Re: Rattle can spraying
« Reply #15 on: 06 July 2018, 00:22:45 »

Just pull the trims off... Obviously be more careful with the ones on original tailgate... Heat definitely helps...

There clipped in with three pins, and one strip of foam goo... Think the goo is on the top edge iirc :y
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Re: Rattle can spraying
« Reply #16 on: 06 July 2018, 09:38:32 »

Thanks DBG and Al  :y

And another question  ::)
The Vauxhall Omega Mv6 badges are obviously glued on. What the best stuff to re apply them ?
Also the griffin badge in the middle seems to be held on by a couple of locating pins  :-\
Is that it OR is glue used as well ?
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Keith ABS

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Re: Rattle can spraying
« Reply #17 on: 06 July 2018, 10:03:49 »

 Double sided badge tape on both.
The griffin has the additional locating pins
Badge tape is black and about 3-4mm thick
Can be obtained in different widths from 5mm upwards

Keith ABS
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tigers_gonads

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Re: Rattle can spraying
« Reply #18 on: 06 July 2018, 10:38:53 »

Double sided badge tape on both.
The griffin has the additional locating pins
Badge tape is black and about 3-4mm thick
Can be obtained in different widths from 5mm upwards

Keith ABS




That stuff from body shops Keith ?  :)
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Re: Rattle can spraying
« Reply #19 on: 06 July 2018, 23:02:02 »

Just done my rear badge, got mine off the bay of e

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/19mm-x-10m-Double-Sided-Foam-Black-Badge-Tape-Waterproof-Sticky-Strong-Adhesive/122941950751?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649

I'm a right picky bugger when it comes to replicating original factory stuff on my car and I have to say, I think this stuff was 100% spot on.

I'll admit to making a template of the badges, tracing it onto masking tape, applying this on the foam tape, then carefully cutting round the lines using a scalpel. In reality (and someone with less tie on their hands  :D) making thin strips you stick on the easy letters (ie: ones made from straight lines) would be 10times quicker and 90% as effective.
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Keith ABS

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Re: Rattle can spraying
« Reply #20 on: 07 July 2018, 07:31:52 »

 The stuff DBG has mentioned is good

Keith ABS
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Re: Rattle can spraying
« Reply #21 on: 07 July 2018, 11:49:00 »




Keith / DBG, thanks  :y

The inside coming on nicely  :y

The outside is going to be a bit of a ball ache  :(
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Re: Rattle can spraying
« Reply #22 on: 07 July 2018, 11:51:21 »

I have sprayed full panels previously with aerosols with good results, both solid colours and metallics. As said preparation is the key - what looks / feels smooth, is still likely to show minor imperfections when the colour goes on, with the paint sinking between the original and the new, or at the edge of any filler. Primer filler can be flatted back to remove any slight imperfections before applying the colour.
Allowing sufficient time between coats for the solvent to evaporate is important, otherwise 'trapped' solvent will result in disastrous results when it dries.
When you are satisfied with your primer coat, just apply a very very light dust coat of colour (any colour but the same type of paint(!), but darker the better) and let it dry (should be quite quickly). This will highlight any imperfections, and at this point they will be easy to rectify with wet / dry or if particularly noticeable with some stopper. Re apply a coat of primer if stopper is used, and let it dry, and then re apply a dust coat. When the surface looks good, the apply the colour, remembering that with metallics, it is just that, a colour, with the laquer giving the depth of shine.
You need to apply the paint in thin coats first, allowing 10 mins between coats for the solvent to evaporate and then a wet coat so that it runs into itself, which initially looks wet, but applying too much will cause runs, especially where the aerosol movement momentarily pauses.... The final coat should be a relative thin coat, but sufficient for it to look slightly wet. If the paint requires a laquer, it should be applied after your final colour coat has started to go off, probably 15 mins, and apply in light coats remembering that when it is polished, you are removing a thin layer. If you cut through the laquer when polishing, it has be reapplied, and sometimes you have to go back to the colour stage.
Removal of as much trim as you can is beneficial, as masking leaves a raw edge which can flake or lift over time. Soft edge foam masking tape is better, as the edge of paint is gradual / feathered and is easier to cut back and loose.
Sounds difficult but practise makes perfect as they say.
It is too hot to spray aerosols really at the moment, as the paint will start to dry as soon as leaves the nozzle, and can result in a 'gritty' finish. Equally, damp in the air on a cold or wet day, will not result in a good finish, and in the worst cases can cause blooming of the finish.
But good finishes can be achieved with aerosols, but it can't be rushed. If you get a foreign body in your refreshly applied paint, don't be tempted to try and remove it immediately - it can be dealt with when it has gone off, but it's annoying if the small midge doesn't give up and creates small circles in the paint before it finally gives up!
Good luck!
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tigers_gonads

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Re: Rattle can spraying
« Reply #23 on: 07 July 2018, 11:53:04 »

I have sprayed full panels previously with aerosols with good results, both solid colours and metallics. As said preparation is the key - what looks / feels smooth, is still likely to show minor imperfections when the colour goes on, with the paint sinking between the original and the new, or at the edge of any filler. Primer filler can be flatted back to remove any slight imperfections before applying the colour.
Allowing sufficient time between coats for the solvent to evaporate is important, otherwise 'trapped' solvent will result in disastrous results when it dries.
When you are satisfied with your primer coat, just apply a very very light dust coat of colour (any colour but the same type of paint(!), but darker the better) and let it dry (should be quite quickly). This will highlight any imperfections, and at this point they will be easy to rectify with wet / dry or if particularly noticeable with some stopper. Re apply a coat of primer if stopper is used, and let it dry, and then re apply a dust coat. When the surface looks good, the apply the colour, remembering that with metallics, it is just that, a colour, with the laquer giving the depth of shine.
You need to apply the paint in thin coats first, allowing 10 mins between coats for the solvent to evaporate and then a wet coat so that it runs into itself, which initially looks wet, but applying too much will cause runs, especially where the aerosol movement momentarily pauses.... The final coat should be a relative thin coat, but sufficient for it to look slightly wet. If the paint requires a laquer, it should be applied after your final colour coat has started to go off, probably 15 mins, and apply in light coats remembering that when it is polished, you are removing a thin layer. If you cut through the laquer when polishing, it has be reapplied, and sometimes you have to go back to the colour stage.
Removal of as much trim as you can is beneficial, as masking leaves a raw edge which can flake or lift over time. Soft edge foam masking tape is better, as the edge of paint is gradual / feathered and is easier to cut back and loose.
Sounds difficult but practise makes perfect as they say.
It is too hot to spray aerosols really at the moment, as the paint will start to dry as soon as leaves the nozzle, and can result in a 'gritty' finish. Equally, damp in the air on a cold or wet day, will not result in a good finish, and in the worst cases can cause blooming of the finish.
But good finishes can be achieved with aerosols, but it can't be rushed. If you get a foreign body in your refreshly applied paint, don't be tempted to try and remove it immediately - it can be dealt with when it has gone off, but it's annoying if the small midge doesn't give up and creates small circles in the paint before it finally gives up!
Good luck!





Yup  :y
The exact words as the bloke in the body shop supply place  :y


At the moment, its get up early and work to about 10:30 then back to it after about 18:00 due to the heat
« Last Edit: 07 July 2018, 11:56:22 by tigers_gonads »
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