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Author Topic: Rattle can spraying  (Read 448 times)

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Doctor Gollum

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Re: Rattle can spraying
« Reply #15 on: 06 July 2018, 00:22:45 »

Just pull the trims off... Obviously be more careful with the ones on original tailgate... Heat definitely helps...

There clipped in with three pins, and one strip of foam goo... Think the goo is on the top edge iirc :y
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tigers_gonads

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Re: Rattle can spraying
« Reply #16 on: 06 July 2018, 09:38:32 »

Thanks DBG and Al  :y

And another question  ::)
The Vauxhall Omega Mv6 badges are obviously glued on. What the best stuff to re apply them ?
Also the griffin badge in the middle seems to be held on by a couple of locating pins  :-\
Is that it OR is glue used as well ?
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Keith ABS

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Re: Rattle can spraying
« Reply #17 on: 06 July 2018, 10:03:49 »

 Double sided badge tape on both.
The griffin has the additional locating pins
Badge tape is black and about 3-4mm thick
Can be obtained in different widths from 5mm upwards

Keith ABS
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tigers_gonads

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Re: Rattle can spraying
« Reply #18 on: 06 July 2018, 10:38:53 »

Double sided badge tape on both.
The griffin has the additional locating pins
Badge tape is black and about 3-4mm thick
Can be obtained in different widths from 5mm upwards

Keith ABS




That stuff from body shops Keith ?  :)
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Diamond Black Geezer

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Re: Rattle can spraying
« Reply #19 on: 06 July 2018, 23:02:02 »

Just done my rear badge, got mine off the bay of e

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/19mm-x-10m-Double-Sided-Foam-Black-Badge-Tape-Waterproof-Sticky-Strong-Adhesive/122941950751?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649

I'm a right picky bugger when it comes to replicating original factory stuff on my car and I have to say, I think this stuff was 100% spot on.

I'll admit to making a template of the badges, tracing it onto masking tape, applying this on the foam tape, then carefully cutting round the lines using a scalpel. In reality (and someone with less tie on their hands  :D) making thin strips you stick on the easy letters (ie: ones made from straight lines) would be 10times quicker and 90% as effective.
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Keith ABS

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Re: Rattle can spraying
« Reply #20 on: 07 July 2018, 07:31:52 »

 The stuff DBG has mentioned is good

Keith ABS
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Re: Rattle can spraying
« Reply #21 on: 07 July 2018, 11:49:00 »




Keith / DBG, thanks  :y

The inside coming on nicely  :y

The outside is going to be a bit of a ball ache  :(
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johnnydog

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Re: Rattle can spraying
« Reply #22 on: 07 July 2018, 11:51:21 »

I have sprayed full panels previously with aerosols with good results, both solid colours and metallics. As said preparation is the key - what looks / feels smooth, is still likely to show minor imperfections when the colour goes on, with the paint sinking between the original and the new, or at the edge of any filler. Primer filler can be flatted back to remove any slight imperfections before applying the colour.
Allowing sufficient time between coats for the solvent to evaporate is important, otherwise 'trapped' solvent will result in disastrous results when it dries.
When you are satisfied with your primer coat, just apply a very very light dust coat of colour (any colour but the same type of paint(!), but darker the better) and let it dry (should be quite quickly). This will highlight any imperfections, and at this point they will be easy to rectify with wet / dry or if particularly noticeable with some stopper. Re apply a coat of primer if stopper is used, and let it dry, and then re apply a dust coat. When the surface looks good, the apply the colour, remembering that with metallics, it is just that, a colour, with the laquer giving the depth of shine.
You need to apply the paint in thin coats first, allowing 10 mins between coats for the solvent to evaporate and then a wet coat so that it runs into itself, which initially looks wet, but applying too much will cause runs, especially where the aerosol movement momentarily pauses.... The final coat should be a relative thin coat, but sufficient for it to look slightly wet. If the paint requires a laquer, it should be applied after your final colour coat has started to go off, probably 15 mins, and apply in light coats remembering that when it is polished, you are removing a thin layer. If you cut through the laquer when polishing, it has be reapplied, and sometimes you have to go back to the colour stage.
Removal of as much trim as you can is beneficial, as masking leaves a raw edge which can flake or lift over time. Soft edge foam masking tape is better, as the edge of paint is gradual / feathered and is easier to cut back and loose.
Sounds difficult but practise makes perfect as they say.
It is too hot to spray aerosols really at the moment, as the paint will start to dry as soon as leaves the nozzle, and can result in a 'gritty' finish. Equally, damp in the air on a cold or wet day, will not result in a good finish, and in the worst cases can cause blooming of the finish.
But good finishes can be achieved with aerosols, but it can't be rushed. If you get a foreign body in your refreshly applied paint, don't be tempted to try and remove it immediately - it can be dealt with when it has gone off, but it's annoying if the small midge doesn't give up and creates small circles in the paint before it finally gives up!
Good luck!
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tigers_gonads

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Re: Rattle can spraying
« Reply #23 on: 07 July 2018, 11:53:04 »

I have sprayed full panels previously with aerosols with good results, both solid colours and metallics. As said preparation is the key - what looks / feels smooth, is still likely to show minor imperfections when the colour goes on, with the paint sinking between the original and the new, or at the edge of any filler. Primer filler can be flatted back to remove any slight imperfections before applying the colour.
Allowing sufficient time between coats for the solvent to evaporate is important, otherwise 'trapped' solvent will result in disastrous results when it dries.
When you are satisfied with your primer coat, just apply a very very light dust coat of colour (any colour but the same type of paint(!), but darker the better) and let it dry (should be quite quickly). This will highlight any imperfections, and at this point they will be easy to rectify with wet / dry or if particularly noticeable with some stopper. Re apply a coat of primer if stopper is used, and let it dry, and then re apply a dust coat. When the surface looks good, the apply the colour, remembering that with metallics, it is just that, a colour, with the laquer giving the depth of shine.
You need to apply the paint in thin coats first, allowing 10 mins between coats for the solvent to evaporate and then a wet coat so that it runs into itself, which initially looks wet, but applying too much will cause runs, especially where the aerosol movement momentarily pauses.... The final coat should be a relative thin coat, but sufficient for it to look slightly wet. If the paint requires a laquer, it should be applied after your final colour coat has started to go off, probably 15 mins, and apply in light coats remembering that when it is polished, you are removing a thin layer. If you cut through the laquer when polishing, it has be reapplied, and sometimes you have to go back to the colour stage.
Removal of as much trim as you can is beneficial, as masking leaves a raw edge which can flake or lift over time. Soft edge foam masking tape is better, as the edge of paint is gradual / feathered and is easier to cut back and loose.
Sounds difficult but practise makes perfect as they say.
It is too hot to spray aerosols really at the moment, as the paint will start to dry as soon as leaves the nozzle, and can result in a 'gritty' finish. Equally, damp in the air on a cold or wet day, will not result in a good finish, and in the worst cases can cause blooming of the finish.
But good finishes can be achieved with aerosols, but it can't be rushed. If you get a foreign body in your refreshly applied paint, don't be tempted to try and remove it immediately - it can be dealt with when it has gone off, but it's annoying if the small midge doesn't give up and creates small circles in the paint before it finally gives up!
Good luck!





Yup  :y
The exact words as the bloke in the body shop supply place  :y


At the moment, its get up early and work to about 10:30 then back to it after about 18:00 due to the heat
« Last Edit: 07 July 2018, 11:56:22 by tigers_gonads »
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