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Author Topic: Rusty wheel arch  (Read 1664 times)

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terry paget

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Re: Rusty wheel arch
« Reply #15 on: 12 September 2018, 12:21:16 »

Thanks to all for god advice. It doesn't look terminal in the other parts of the chassis, but clearly the RH cill needs attention.
Reverting to the appearance of the LH wheel arch (first pic), clearly last year I made a mess of touching it up, and the rust has leached through my rub down fill and respray job. At the end where I did a bit of filling it remains silver. I reckon for a longer lasting cheap repair it's no good rubbinbg down to bare metal, priming and respraying, I need in some way to seal over the bare metal, like the filler at the end has done. What's the best way of doing it?
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Doctor Gollum

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Re: Rusty wheel arch
« Reply #16 on: 12 September 2018, 12:22:46 »

Cut the rust out and weld in new metal...

Anything else is pretending  ;)

But to answer your question, that patch isn't rusty because the filler is hiding it not because there's no rust...
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johnnydog

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Re: Rusty wheel arch
« Reply #17 on: 12 September 2018, 12:48:37 »

Rubbing down to bare metal is a must if there are any defects under the paint. Rust doesn't always appear just as rusty coloured metal, if there are black deep rooted spots in the metal, they need removing prior to any work, so that the surface is totally spotless and pure metal in appearance with no marks (I don't mean scour marks).
The area where you filled will no doubt have rust under it - rust will lift filler eventually but that is why it hasn't shown through as yet. Have you ever seen a panel that looks ok paint wise, but has areas that have lifted? That is rust under filler. Rust under original paint as you know appears initially as small brown marks. If rust has been previously painted over, then it appears more like blisters that you can pop!
Remember that if you cut out the rusty section of wheelarch to what appears good clean metal, invariably it will have rust behind the clean metal too. Cut out as far as you can relative to the condition of the back of the metal you are removing. After any repairs, metal or filler, I would always try to inject some sort of wax rust protection (not underseal) / converter to the rear of the panel which will help to delay rust reappearing, but creates fire hazards later if a welding torch gets near it.
Always try to get a top coat on once the primer is dry. Primer alone is porous so doesn't give any protection to the metal underneath, as it is only intended to give good adhesion for the top coat.
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Nick W

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Re: Rusty wheel arch
« Reply #18 on: 12 September 2018, 17:25:15 »

Terry, your wheel arch, sills, chassis rails etc are rusting from the inside out where they join other panels. Treating the surface with magic potions or rubbing them down and covering them with filler is a total waste of time and effort.
There are two approaches to these problems:


     1. Ignore them until they're so bad you scrap the car.


     2. Cut ALL of the grot back to good metal, and weld in new. Welding little patches over the top might be good for a couple of years, so isn't worth doing
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Doctor Gollum

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Re: Rusty wheel arch
« Reply #19 on: 12 September 2018, 18:20:11 »

Terry, your wheel arch, sills, chassis rails etc are rusting from the inside out where they join other panels. Treating the surface with magic potions or rubbing them down and covering them with filler is a total waste of time and effort.
There are two approaches to these problems:


     1. Ignore them until it fails the MoT

Then either:

     2a. Cut ALL of the grot back to good metal, and weld in new. Welding little patches over the top might be good for a couple of years, so isn't worth doing.
     2b. You scrap it.
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dave the builder

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Re: Rusty wheel arch
« Reply #20 on: 12 September 2018, 19:18:46 »

Terry want's a couple more years out of it ,
repairing the holed parts with plates ,treating the rust and then using suoertrol will  give him a couple of years
doing nothing will see it fail next MOT
cutting out ALL the rust and replacing with fresh steel would be only worth doing if he wanted to keep it 5+ years
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terry paget

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Re: Rusty wheel arch
« Reply #21 on: 12 September 2018, 19:24:10 »

My oldest 2 Omegas are the least rusty, a pair of 2.5 manual estates. Both passed MOTs this year with little trouble. A Y reg 2.2 saloon failed MOT on rust recently and has been scrapped; scrappy gave me 75 for it, I sold the gearbox to enthusiasts for 50, used the differential to perk up one of he estates;
kept the catalyst too. My ex-police 2003 saloon and a 2.2 manual saloon will probably go next year.

The subject of this thread, a 2.6 manual saloon, is excellent mechanically, and I hope will give me 2 more years service. It needs some welding in the o/s cill to get through MOT this November, next year who knows.

Member ajsphead is welding his Omega all the while and hopefully will still be running it in 10 years time. Mine will not last that long. Curiously, my best Omega is the estate he sold me, little rust but now on its fourth differential.
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dave the builder

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Re: Rusty wheel arch
« Reply #22 on: 12 September 2018, 20:02:55 »

plate over any holes
then treat the rest
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/HAMMERITE-KURUST-250ML-CURE-RUST-KILLER-CONVERTS-RUSTY-METAL-ONE-COAT-TREATMENT/253827152697?epid=1805250026&hash=item3b1946fb39:g:kZMAAOSwrfVZWq~K

squirt in chassis rails and sills after
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Action-Can-Supertrol-Anti-Rust-Fluid-500Ml/112730856760?epid=1165484727&hash=item1a3f485d38:g:vbMAAOSwXaRaTQZ2

underseal over treated areas

cosmetics of the arches are far less important
(mot wise,unless it's rusted to a sharp edge or holed ,it's a pass)

a day spent doing this to your omega will slow the tinworm considerably
(my 25+ year old carlton had a lot less rust than the omega in the pics )
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terry paget

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Re: Rusty wheel arch
« Reply #23 on: 13 September 2018, 09:05:07 »

plate over any holes
then treat the rest
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/HAMMERITE-KURUST-250ML-CURE-RUST-KILLER-CONVERTS-RUSTY-METAL-ONE-COAT-TREATMENT/253827152697?epid=1805250026&hash=item3b1946fb39:g:kZMAAOSwrfVZWq~K

squirt in chassis rails and sills after
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Action-Can-Supertrol-Anti-Rust-Fluid-500Ml/112730856760?epid=1165484727&hash=item1a3f485d38:g:vbMAAOSwXaRaTQZ2

underseal over treated areas

cosmetics of the arches are far less important
(mot wise,unless it's rusted to a sharp edge or holed ,it's a pass)

a day spent doing this to your omega will slow the tinworm considerably
(my 25+ year old carlton had a lot less rust than the omega in the pics )
Excellent advice, that I shall follow.
I have long loved and enjoyed my Omegas, and my Senators before them, but I feel this period is coming to an end. My daughter-in-law's Rover Streetwise, whose head gasket failure was brought to my attention 4 years ago, struck me as a decent car to drive. Since my repair it has been trouble free, and looks like outliving  my Omegas. There must be many other decent cars out there.
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TestOmega

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Re: Rusty wheel arch
« Reply #24 on: 14 September 2018, 02:09:30 »

I don't know why you have issues paint matching. There are outfits which can create spray cans for your paint code.

I am in Canada and the following folks here create spray cans with incredible matching accuracy. I have tried it on a Nissan, Toyota and Catera (your Omega B) here with fantastic results. I am not sure if they will post you a can or too that you require. They are very good people.

http://cawthraautomotive.com/

Just sharing if as a long shot it could help.
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Nick W

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Re: Rusty wheel arch
« Reply #25 on: 14 September 2018, 07:13:14 »

Paint matching isn't an issue here either, there are plenty of suppliers who will do it while you wait either in bulk or cans. Although I wouldn't want to paint a quarter panel with rattle cans.


The problem with this sort of job is the sheer amount of time, effort and money expended on an 18 year old car that is worthless.
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dave the builder

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Re: Rusty wheel arch
« Reply #26 on: 14 September 2018, 08:56:35 »


The problem with this sort of job is the sheer amount of time, effort and money expended on an 18 year old car that is worthless.
Not worthless  ::)
look at the many threads about people trying to find cars to replace omega
many involving spending 10k +
even if you paid a welder and a body shop to sort out the rust on a good omega (by good i mean savable ,some rust,good mechanicals) say 2 grand , it would be good for a fair few years ,offset that against depreciation of a newer car and the expensive parts when it goes wrong (compared to omega parts which are p155 cheap ,because evreyone considers them "worthless" scrap)
 OK, so you would not get your money back if you sorted an omega and tried to sell it , BUT , 3 grand spent on an omega that would be good for 5+years (longer if rustproofed well ) is good bangernomics IF lard arse barge motoring is where you want to be.
it's just a real shame that the baked bean can steal opel made omegas from still had tomato juice residue and they made such a p155 poor job of rust prevention   :(
 
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Doctor Gollum

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Re: Rusty wheel arch
« Reply #27 on: 14 September 2018, 11:38:48 »

Quote
Not worthless  ::)
look at the many threads about people trying to find cars to replace omega
many involving spending 10k +
Don't delude yourself.

Those people have, largely, used it as an excuse to move up in car. The Omega used to be a 2-3k purchase. It is now a sub 500 way to avoid walking.

Replacing an Omega is now a 3-500 decision. Buying a 5 year old Jag or Merc or Passat is a lifestyle choice pure and simple.
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dave the builder

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Re: Rusty wheel arch
« Reply #28 on: 14 September 2018, 12:52:03 »


Those people have, largely, used it as an excuse to move up in car. The Omega used to be a 2-3k purchase. It is now a sub 500 way to avoid walking.
if you set a budget of sub 500 ,you'd expect maybe 12 months motoring at best then scrap what ever you buy ,recovering 100 in scrap value  ,so 400/12 months =33 a month , if your budget was that tight, you'd have to be insane to buy a car that does 25 MPG  :o

Replacing an Omega is now a 3-500 decision. Buying a 5 year old Jag or Merc or Passat is a lifestyle choice pure and simple.
Driving an omega is a lifestyle choice , some of us are happy to pay and do work on an omega because we like RWD comfy vauxhall barges.

If it was all down to cost alone, no one would drive big thirsty cars, some want a nice shiny car  to impress everyone, I don't care what others think about the car i drive, some will think "nice old vauxhall, wish i still had mine," lost count of how many times i heard that over the years  ::), some will look at the reg plate and think I'm a pauper .

I used to work for a large car lease company ,drove everything going at the time,from ford to merc to porche ,even older PX cars at the time, the car i chose was a vauxhall carlton, drove them for 18 years as a daily drive ,also went to meets and shows. due to health reasons (not rust because i cared for my carlton) i had to move to an auto, i found an omega . i will spend time and money way beyond economic sense to keep said omega as a daily, because i like it.

a few members of this forum have had omegas ,they went rusty or required expensive repairs and chose to move on to other cars which better suite their budget and needs, fair enough,but  why slagging off omegas as worthless rot boxes ?
  There are also enthusiasts with omegas that have them because they like them.

this thread is about rust, if you spend time and money on rust prevention, you can extend the life of a car you like . if it was an e type jag with rust and not an omega ,would you say it's worthless  :-\ because it needs a bit of welding and rust treatment ? probably not

would i want to swap driving an omega for driving an e type jag , if money where no object , good god no !
but if money was no object , i'd nip down to asda and buy myself a new leg ,so i can drive a manual again  :P
« Last Edit: 14 September 2018, 12:57:18 by dave the builder »
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tunnie

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Re: Rusty wheel arch
« Reply #29 on: 14 September 2018, 13:19:09 »

Thing is rusty wheel arches are just cosmetic, you don't need to fix it. The real problem areas which have been highlighted before are hidden: sills and front chassis area, that's real killer area.

Mine is generally rust free body wise, nothing on the arches or doors, but the sills had gone. (now fixed) It's only a matter of time before the front chassis goes, that extra plate was starting to go a bit soft in one of the corners on my last status check. As we know that area is not worth repairing at-all.

Think I've got maybe 2-3 years left in the 3.2, then sadly it will be off to make some bake been tins.  :'(
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