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[alexandjen]

Following on from my cambelt kit thread...............I need to change the oil seal behind the crankshaft pulley at the same time as I'm losing oil from this area.

Now would I be right in thinking that once the pulley is removed (four bolts I think) that there is another bolt to remove before the seal can be replaced?

If so how do you counter hold the crank to stop it spinning without buying the proper Vx tool?

[Matchless]

You will need a cam locking kit and timing tools for this job.
Search through my posts, Im sure I posted photos of this job in the past but the procedure is:

Remove aux belt and tensioner
Remove auxbelt pulleys
Remove cambelt cover
Set crank at 60 deg BTDC
Remove cambelt. Do not move crank more than a few degrees now.
Make up a piece of angle iron about 3-4 foot long, drilled to pattern of crank pulley, bolt to crankshaft cambelt sprocket and use to counterhold crank whilst you undo centre bolt. DO NOT try any other method....you will shear the sprocket keyway if you do.
Slide off sprocket and remove the oil seal. Pull off the spacer behind the sprocket (bit of heat helps if spacer is stuck) turn spacer around and re-fit.
Fit new oil seal and re-fit sprocket using a new bolt (important).
Tighten bolt to 250nm   using the angle iron to counterhold, then tighten a further 45 degrees.
Refit cambelt and re-time cams etc.

[ngrainqey]

You will need a cam locking kit and timing tools for this job.
Search through my posts, Im sure I posted photos of this job in the past but the procedure is:

Remove aux belt and tensioner
Remove auxbelt pulleys
Remove cambelt cover
Set crank at 60 deg BTDC
Remove cambelt. Do not move crank more than a few degrees now.
Make up a piece of angle iron about 3-4 foot long, drilled to pattern of crank pulley, bolt to crankshaft cambelt sprocket and use to counterhold crank whilst you undo centre bolt. DO NOT try any other method....you will shear the sprocket keyway if you do.
Slide off sprocket and remove the oil seal. Pull off the spacer behind the sprocket (bit of heat helps if spacer is stuck) turn spacer around and re-fit.
Fit new oil seal and re-fit sprocket using a new bolt (important).
Tighten bolt to 250nm   using the angle iron to counterhold, then tighten a further 45 degrees.
Refit cambelt and re-time cams etc.

seems alot of torque to then turn another 45 degrees... we're not all gorillas! lmao!

[Matchless]

You will need a cam locking kit and timing tools for this job.
Search through my posts, Im sure I posted photos of this job in the past but the procedure is:

Remove aux belt and tensioner
Remove auxbelt pulleys
Remove cambelt cover
Set crank at 60 deg BTDC
Remove cambelt. Do not move crank more than a few degrees now.
Make up a piece of angle iron about 3-4 foot long, drilled to pattern of crank pulley, bolt to crankshaft cambelt sprocket and use to counterhold crank whilst you undo centre bolt. DO NOT try any other method....you will shear the sprocket keyway if you do.
Slide off sprocket and remove the oil seal. Pull off the spacer behind the sprocket (bit of heat helps if spacer is stuck) turn spacer around and re-fit.
Fit new oil seal and re-fit sprocket using a new bolt (important).
Tighten bolt to 250nm   using the angle iron to counterhold, then tighten a further 45 degrees.
Refit cambelt and re-time cams etc.

seems alot of torque to then turn another 45 degrees... we're not all gorillas! lmao!

Thats why you need a long bit of angle iron plus a monster torque wrench.
It also helps if you have a chunky OOF member attached to the angle iron.

[alexandjen]

You will need a cam locking kit and timing tools for this job.
Search through my posts, Im sure I posted photos of this job in the past but the procedure is:

Remove aux belt and tensioner
Remove auxbelt pulleys
Remove cambelt cover
Set crank at 60 deg BTDC
Remove cambelt. Do not move crank more than a few degrees now.
Make up a piece of angle iron about 3-4 foot long, drilled to pattern of crank pulley, bolt to crankshaft cambelt sprocket and use to counterhold crank whilst you undo centre bolt. DO NOT try any other method....you will shear the sprocket keyway if you do.
Slide off sprocket and remove the oil seal. Pull off the spacer behind the sprocket (bit of heat helps if spacer is stuck) turn spacer around and re-fit.
Fit new oil seal and re-fit sprocket using a new bolt (important).
Tighten bolt to 250nm   using the angle iron to counterhold, then tighten a further 45 degrees.
Refit cambelt and re-time cams etc.

Thanks Matchless - does this all apply to a 2.2?

[Clouseau]

When I replaced the crank oil seal on my 2.0 I cut a strip of 3mm x 18mm steel and drilled a hole at each end to aligned one bolthole in the crank sprocket and the lower alternator mounting bolt. Needed a couple of slight bends to make it a bit 'Z' shaped (but only just) and this held it perfectly to undo the bolt and set the torque again.

It's recommended to fit a new bolt; only a couple of quid or so.