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Author Topic: How to repair front door check strap (with pics)  (Read 10844 times)

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  • Omega Knight
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How to repair front door check strap (with pics)
« on: 14 July 2006, 19:35:08 »

some people have noticed that when closing and opening the front door on an omega (especially the driver's door as it gets more use) that there is a kind of cracking noise.

A "fix" for this is documented on the omega owners' group on yahoo (largely cribbed off TIS by the looks of it) - but I tried this and it did NOT fix the problem. Worth doing though, as it will stop the internal bracket tearing which isn't good!

What did fix the problem though, is also replacing the plastic bushes that fit between the check strap and the big bolt that fixes it to the bracket on the 'A' pillar, as shown below:

Parts required and their RETAIL pricing:

4 x 9195961 (reinforcement plate) @ 1.04 each
4 x 13104167 (longer torx head bolts) @ 0.12 each
2 x 90462823 (plastic bush) @ 0.19 each
total cost: 5.02 + VAT = 5.90.

don't believe Vx if they tell you that the part numbers are invalid !!


First off, the repair plates I bought (helpfully) had a nice sticky label on each one with the part number. Ideally use proper label remover to get them off as you need to paint the brackets to prevent rust. I found that the Maplin label remover (part no. N63AN, 2.99 per can) does a very good job.

You also need to cut down at least two of the brackets - cut off the top 8mm or so and round off the corners, turn 180 degrees and repeat. The info I've read differs - one source says do both brackets for each door, the Vx field rememedy info says to do just the outer one. I'd already done both anyway ... once this is done, paint the brackets to prevent rust.

So for each door you will have two brackets, two screws and one plastic bush. The brackets and screws should be similar to this:

before installation, the door check strap fitting to the door looks like this:

Start by removing the door card (see Haynes manual page 11.8 if needed), then the front speaker. Note that removal of the plastic sheet is NOT needed for this job - so no problems if you've got side airbags fitted.

The hardest part I found was removing the door locking knob - the Haynes manual makes it look so easy to remove the clip - but it's best done with a sharp knife initially to make a suitable gap as it's a tight fit otherwise. If it's been removed before then it shouldn't be a problem.

to remove the check strap itself, use an 8mm socket - alternating between the top and bottom bolts. When they are out, remove the pin in the 'A' pillar bracket. This will require two 10mm spanners initially - after a few turns the nut on the bottom can be undone by hand - then remove the pin.

At this point you may want to use latex gloves (unless you like greasy hands) - reach inside the door through the speaker hole and remove the check strap. The mechanism should be covered in grease, you may want to re-grease the mechanism at this point for good measure.

Put one of the plates over the end of the mechanism and see if the screw holes in the plate line up with those on the check strap. If not you'll need to bend the check strap brackets slightly to match (both mine were slightly out).

The second reinforcement plate needs to sit between the door and the fixing bolts - I found the best way to do this is to get the check strap into its' approximate position, then pull it back, fit the plate and push it through again.

Fit the two new bolts through the inner and outer reinforcement plates and into the check strap - note that they have a T30 torx head and not standard 8mm hexagonal. On the driver's side, I had trouble getting the bolts in position - it turned out that there was a slight lip which the reinforcement plate needed to be sat on top of, otherwise it was about 1mm out. When complete it should look like this:

(I suppose a bit of paint over the screw heads wouldn't be a bad idea either )

Next comes the bushes. They fit on the end of the check straps, between the bolt and the strap, as below:

Push out the old, replace with the new. Ideally grease the pin before replacing - it may now not go right the way through without "assistance" due to the new bush, but there should be enough to fit the nut onto. Tighten up using the two 10mm spanners as per removal, which will pull the pin down through the bush.

Opening and closing the door should now be free of the cracking sound! [smiley=thumbsup.gif]
« Last Edit: 24 July 2007, 12:38:21 by TheBoy »
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