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Author Topic: how to: fit a total closure kit  (Read 7082 times)

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sounds2k

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how to: fit a total closure kit
« on: 24 April 2007, 17:06:14 »

this was done on a 52-reg elite estate, but should be very similar for other models.

Basically - if your car has the total closure facility - whereby if you have window(s) and/or sunroof open and you deadlock the doors using the remote with the lock button, holding it down the second time, the sunroof and windows close themselves - this kit will effectively hold the button down for you. So you can deadlock the car with the remote and it will close any open windows and the sunroof for you. The reason for checking is I'm not sure if this facility is standard on all models ...
 
Parts & tools required:

total closure kit from www.totalclosure.com - details here, price as of April 2007 is 30 inc. VAT and delivery
T25 torx screwdriver
10mm nut spinner

optional, but preferable ...

soldering iron (gas powered is ideal)
solder
insulating tape
small sharp knife

NOTE: fitting this unit ideally requires soldering. Whilst the kit comes with Scotchlok connectors, I have yet to come across a professional installer that uses them ... they always seem to stick with soldering ...

The contents of the kit as it arrives:



Firstly, as you will be connecting to a permanent 12V feed, disconnect the battery negative lead - if you have a powered alarm sounder, bear in mind that you need to do this within 15 seconds of switching off the ignition. I open the bonnet, turn on the ignition, then remove the key and undo the nut and remove the lead ...

Remove the driver's side kick panel - there are two T25 head screws holding it in place - one is just under the bonnet release lever, the other is underneath the sill trim panel - I removed the entire sill trim panel to make access easier but it's probably possible to remove just the screws in the driver's sill area and lift the trim enough to gain access to the kick panel screw.

You should then be faced with this:



the immobiliser / central locking control unit is the black box behind the wiring loom. Use a 10mm nut spinner to undo the plastic nuts which hold the wiring loom bracket in place, this also secures the control unit in position. This wiring loom is NOT the one you will be making connections to - so tuck it out of the way around the left of the accelerator cable.

Unplug the two connectors from the immobiliser/central locking control unit, when unplugged they look as shown below:




the smaller plug (with bigger pins) is known as X62, the larger plug (with smaller pins) is X61. If you look at the sides of the connectors, you will see that the pins are numbered to aid identification.

Making the connections

If soldering, you will need to remove some of the insulation (about 5mm), tin the exposed wire, then remove approx. 10-15mm of the end of the wire being connected, wrap that around the exposed part of the wire being joined to (this gives a mechanical as well as electrical connection, so the wires are less likely to come apart), then solder the two together and wrap the joint in insulating tape.

As the total closure unit has its' own internal fuse, I connected its' long red wire to the +12V permanent live - pin 9 on X62 (a 1.5mm red wire)
Black wire of total closure unit connects to earth - pin 11 of X62 (1.5mm brown wire)
Brown wire of total closure unit connects to pin 24 of X61 (0.75mm brown/black wire)
Short red wire of total closure unit connects to pin 8 of X62 (0.75mm red/black wire)
Blue wire of total closure unit connects to pin 10 of X61 (1.5mm blue/black wire)

If you cannot locate ALL of these wires - or are in any doubt - do NOT proceed ...
The instructions supplied with the total closure unit say that the blue wire connects to a thin blue/black wire, but it isn't thin on the Omega - however this is the only blue/black wire on either X61 or X62.

the connections should look something like this (before wrapping each connection with insulating tape) ... for some reason the picture shows most leads as blue ... but you get the idea!!



If soldering, make sure ALL the connections are suitably wrapped with insulating tape, then refit the immobiliser/central locking controller. Try and leave the total closure in the footwell for the time being, with the LED pointing upwards so you can see it.

The end result should be like this:



Now reconnect the battery negative lead, reset the sunroof and window memories (refer to the guide here if required).

Time for testing ... open the sunroof and/or windows, then go outside the car and deadlock it using the remote. You should see the light on the total closure unit illuminating, at which point the sunroof and/or windows should self close. After a few more seconds the light on the total closure unit should extinguish.

If all is OK, unlock the car again and put everything back together - cable tie the wires of the the total closure unit if you like - it then sits nicely above the bonnet release area.

Job done :y
« Last Edit: 24 July 2007, 16:08:59 by TheBoy »
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