Omega Owners Forum
Chat Area => General Car Chat => Topic started by: Auto Addict on 22 July 2017, 17:56:38
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For confirming the MB dealer needs to give me a new battery :y
The extension looks superb by the way :y
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For confirming the MB dealer needs to give me a new battery :y
The extension looks superb by the way :y
Are they happy to do this FOC?..... ::)
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For confirming the MB dealer needs to give me a new battery :y
The extension looks superb by the way :y
Are they happy to do this FOC?..... ::)
Its under warranty.
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And how did Mr Fuse do this, as I'm half thinking the Jag's battery is suspect, the voltage seems a little low to me, but I keep finding conflicting info on AGM batteries.
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Was toying with buying a cheap drop tester, but don't know if cheap ones are any good.
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And how did Mr Fuse do this, as I'm half thinking the Jag's battery is suspect, the voltage seems a little low to me, but I keep finding conflicting info on AGM batteries.
With my new MBII diagnostic scanner ;)
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Was toying with buying a cheap drop tester, but don't know if cheap ones are any good.
I've researched those, unless you pay about £200 for one you're wasting your money.
Cheaper to buy a new battery.
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Was toying with buying a cheap drop tester, but don't know if cheap ones are any good.
Buy one of the analogue, metal cased ones for about twenty quid. Plenty good enough for everyday trade use. Even you won't manage to break one ;D
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Was toying with buying a cheap drop tester, but don't know if cheap ones are any good.
Buy one of the analogue, metal cased ones for about twenty quid. Plenty good enough for everyday trade use. Even you won't manage to break one ;D
Depends how hot the flames get this time, I guess...
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A battery with low ESR does not suddenly get 14.8V charge volts across is immediately after starting!
That and error codes in the gearbox ecu!
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A battery with low ESR does not suddenly get 14.8V charge volts across is immediately after starting!
That and error codes in the gearbox ecu!
I'll get me meter out again if it starts showing gremlins again.
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Apparently I do not need a new battery....
"Current MB's use the alternator differently to older models.
Most have variable output alternators to help reduce fuel consumption.
In most cases once a battery is fully charged they hold battery voltage between 12.6v-13v to reduce fuel consumption. If you apply the brakes then the voltage may increase to as much as 15v to recoup the "free" energy, if accelerating then it may drop as low as 12v. The engine ECU determines what voltage it wants to maintain at the battery based on load/temps/electrical consumers etc.
All Bluefficiency models have this, and most other current models."
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Was toying with buying a cheap drop tester, but don't know if cheap ones are any good.
Buy one of the analogue, metal cased ones for about twenty quid. Plenty good enough for everyday trade use. Even you won't manage to break one ;D
yep a drop tester is just a voltmeter with a heater, why wouldn't a cheap one do that.
however if you combine it with a decent multimeter with computer output and a laptop you can graph the voltage drop over seconds which will give you all the info you need. anything else is just fancy software to interpret the graph data.
only drawback with a cheap one is the heater might not draw enough current to test big batteries adequately. You could always put 2 on simultaneously.
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Apparently I do not need a new battery....
"Current MB's use the alternator differently to older models.
Most have variable output alternators to help reduce fuel consumption.
In most cases once a battery is fully charged they hold battery voltage between 12.6v-13v to reduce fuel consumption. If you apply the brakes then the voltage may increase to as much as 15v to recoup the "free" energy, if accelerating then it may drop as low as 12v. The engine ECU determines what voltage it wants to maintain at the battery based on load/temps/electrical consumers etc.
All Bluefficiency models have this, and most other current models."
A similar scheme on the Jag is clouding the issue on whether or not my battery is shagged, as the engine ECU controls the alternator output, based on what state of charge the Battery Monitor ecu thinks the battery is in... ...and this is easily confuddled by connecting a charger direct to battery :-[
Now I'm using it a bit more, most of my annoying electrical gremlins have gone away, so might be battery capacity isn't great, or the drain is quite high.
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Apparently I do not need a new battery....
"Current MB's use the alternator differently to older models.
Most have variable output alternators to help reduce fuel consumption.
In most cases once a battery is fully charged they hold battery voltage between 12.6v-13v to reduce fuel consumption. If you apply the brakes then the voltage may increase to as much as 15v to recoup the "free" energy, if accelerating then it may drop as low as 12v. The engine ECU determines what voltage it wants to maintain at the battery based on load/temps/electrical consumers etc.
All Bluefficiency models have this, and most other current models."
A similar scheme on the Jag is clouding the issue on whether or not my battery is shagged, as the engine ECU controls the alternator output, based on what state of charge the Battery Monitor ecu thinks the battery is in... ...and this is easily confuddled by connecting a charger direct to battery :-[
Now I'm using it a bit more, most of my annoying electrical gremlins have gone away, so might be battery capacity isn't great, or the drain is quite high.
Don't you just love these electronics on modern cars. >:(
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Don't know how we ever managed without it. ::)
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Apparently I do not need a new battery....
"Current MB's use the alternator differently to older models.
Most have variable output alternators to help reduce fuel consumption.
In most cases once a battery is fully charged they hold battery voltage between 12.6v-13v to reduce fuel consumption. If you apply the brakes then the voltage may increase to as much as 15v to recoup the "free" energy, if accelerating then it may drop as low as 12v. The engine ECU determines what voltage it wants to maintain at the battery based on load/temps/electrical consumers etc.
All Bluefficiency models have this, and most other current models."
A similar scheme on the Jag is clouding the issue on whether or not my battery is shagged, as the engine ECU controls the alternator output, based on what state of charge the Battery Monitor ecu thinks the battery is in... ...and this is easily confuddled by connecting a charger direct to battery :-[
Now I'm using it a bit more, most of my annoying electrical gremlins have gone away, so might be battery capacity isn't great, or the drain is quite high.
Don't you just love these electronics on modern cars. >:(
Keeps the tree huggers happy, and those like tunnie who think mpg is proportional to manhood size :P
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Don't you just love these electronics on modern cars. >:(
Try a twenty year old car with an ecu for each bank :D