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Messages - Stu.C

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46
Omega Gallery / Re: The invisible Omega
« on: 30 June 2022, 22:51:14 »
Because I can play about with it in my head, a hypothetical destination for the engine could hypothetically use the Omega instrument cluster instead of its' own. Logic says that'd be easier than trying to get a whole load of other instruments from a completely different vehicle to understand the output from the ECU, but I've seen some transplants where folks are keen on preserving the retro vibe of original dials. Keeping the original cluster made it easier for me to have a running engine too, so I went with that  ;D


To give flexibility down the line, I worked through the cluster's 26 pin connector and wired up a couple of stub connectors for all the warning lamps, and anything else that wasn't taking a feed from either the ECU or whatever I'd kept in the loom. If you work on the premise that a target vehicle's already got indicators, for example, you could then simply connect that circuit up to the Omega cluster and bam!  Plus, it kept them tidily out of my way for now and I get to claim later on that it was intentional...  ;)





Because - as Stemo notes - I'm a glutton for punishment, I then spent a couple of evenings harvesting wire from the remaining body looms, which run all the way to the tail from the front footwells. The only thing back there I was remotely interested in was the fuel pump & gauge circuits, so 99.87% of this is technically scrap. Don't know about you though, but I hate it when you're following someone else's wiring job and you've got say a circuit on grey with a yellow stripe, and then suddenly it becomes dark green at a joint because that's all someone had knocking about at the time.  :-\ 


Harvesting the wire now means I can colour match to my heart's content for years to come - and it's free ...  :D





It's like déjà vu all over again ...  ;D   ;D





But the end result was remarkably satisfying, and sooooooooo much easier to store and pick from later  :y







47
Omega Gallery / Re: Project money pit
« on: 30 June 2022, 12:59:54 »
Looking veeerrrrryyyy nice ...  :y

48
Omega Gallery / Re: The invisible Omega
« on: 30 June 2022, 12:18:19 »
 ;D  Some people build models of tower bridge out of matchsticks. Some people (for no apparent reason) golf. There's even a group in the next village that knit jumpers for trees and lampposts...


During our various lockdowns (which spanned the story so far), this whole project simply gave me a chance for a half hour break here & there. Research was quite easy on the old interwebs, and any tools or parts I needed were generally only a couple of days post away. Yes I might have taken some long diversions along the way, and others would no doubt have done things differently - but at the end of the day, it's my hobby project not theirs  :y

49
Omega Gallery / Re: The invisible Omega
« on: 30 June 2022, 11:09:59 »
If the engine bay loom seemed like a lot to deal with, it was nothing compared to the main body loom  :o  This is a beast and connects all the controls on (and in) your dash to the rest of the car. The plan here is to strip out everything I won't possibly perhaps ever maybe need, one circuit at a time - and just keep going until I run out of things to remove. For the moment, I elected to keep the original cabin fuse and relay panels, so that I didn't complicate the task by then potentially mis-connecting a circuit along the way.


First thing to do then is open up the loom so you can get to all the wires...





If I wasn't doubting myself before, then seeing that lot spread out was the point it kicked in  ;D 


Apparently, the absolute worst way to remove loom tape and heatshrink is trying to slice it open with a razor blade or a knife. No matter how careful you are, at some point you're going to either cut the end of a finger off, or slice through a wire without realising. The best way I found to do it was with a variety of different sized seam rippers (or unstitching picks) from the crafting aisle. For a start you're pushing a blade away from you, so much less likely to stab yourself. The pointy bit is rounded off so you can slide it inside the loom tape and it pushes all the wires aside, before a tiny little blade slices open the loom for you. I was as sceptical as anyone, but once you try it, it's speedy and magical...





Stripping the loom back is then a "simple" repetitive process of picking a connector you're not keeping, checking it against the wiring diagram to be sure it's the one you think it is, double checking, and then cutting every single wire on it back to the other end. That other end is going to be either another connector (such as the big ones in the footwells), or a joint in the loom (such as where a load of earths, or the speed signal come together). If you want an easy start to get into the swing of it yourself, go for the bright yellow & purple of the airbag system - you can't miss it (probably intentionally)  ;D


Little by little, that signal-to-noise ratio improves...





Remarkably, there was only one occasion where I realised 8.273 milliseconds after cutting a wire that I was meant to be keeping it  :D


Eventually, I got to this much more compact version. (I checked the datestamps, and it's three weeks later). The remaining loops of wire here and there are for "things to deal with later", such as all the warning lights on the dash, or all the MID connections.





As I went along, I'd made a note of the major circuits I'd chopped out (on the basis either I wouldn't want them down the line, or a theoretical target vehicle would already have them taken care of anyway);


  • Airbags
  • Windscreen wipers/washers
  • Aircon
  • Aerial
  • Heater blower
  • Horn
  • Rear window heater
  • Indicators & hazards
  • Bulb failure warning
  • Alarm
  • Powersounder
  • Cruise control
  • Heated seats
  • Traction control
  • Ultrasonics
  • Electronic Climate Control
  • Cabin lighting
  • Stereo / amplifier / CD changer
  • Power steering
  • Exterior lights
  • Ignition switch

Blimey, that's quite a lot for a machine to get you from A to B  ;D   Once I'd stripped the loom back to this point, I ziptied it all up to keep it structured, dropped it back in the box, connected it back up the engine ... and was relieved when everything worked first time and it fired up again ...  :y



50
Omega General Help / Re: Coolant transfer pipe o-ring
« on: 30 June 2022, 10:40:39 »
It was there for comedic effect - obviously on a different wavelength.


Like I said, I'll see what gives when I take it apart. A smear of Hylomar Blue has usually been sufficient over the years with the cooling on the Capri.

51
Omega General Help / Re: Coolant transfer pipe o-ring
« on: 29 June 2022, 23:38:12 »



Lucky I checked, I was just gonna go to Screwfix ...  ;D ;D ;D

52
Omega General Help / Re: Coolant transfer pipe o-ring
« on: 29 June 2022, 16:24:49 »
Indeed, that's the problem with me using an old pic to clearly show where I'm talking about. The engine is fully dressed at the moment and full of coolant.  :-\


At least I now know its 37mm, but not yet whether that's ID or OD, and thus what thickness it is. Searching the Saab parts suppliers off the back of that part number wasn't really turning anything up either. Ah well, if nobody else pipes up beforehand, I'll just have to solve the mystery when I get to it - luckily I'm in no real rush...  :y

53
Omega General Help / Coolant transfer pipe o-ring
« on: 29 June 2022, 09:45:37 »
I've searched based on what I think it's called, but most results seem to refer to a pipe by the thermostat. The thing I'm talking about is the big one that runs from the rad to the back of the block.


Does it have an o-ring at the block end? And if so, does anyone have a part number or size for it please? There's a slight coolant leak at the joint, and before I undo it, it'd be a good idea to have a replacement to hand, if there's one needed.  :y



54
Omega Gallery / Re: The invisible Omega
« on: 28 June 2022, 21:14:31 »
I seem to remember February that year as having been cold. Certainly too cold to be messing about in the garage with wiring, so I brought the whole lot inside to work on. The goal here is to drastically improve that signal-to-noise ratio, and strip out the vast amount of *stuff* that I'd just never need - even in my wildest dreams. Again, the project isn't about creating the perfect setup, or necessarily retaining originality - instead it's about trying things out, seeing how things work, maybe even occasionally breaking it and dealing with it. There's no target destination for the engine, no fixed set of requirements or must haves - just the general notion in my head that if I was going to put it into something later on down the line, the bits I'd want are either already there or I know roughly how/where to slot them in.  :y


First up was the engine bay loom, for which there's a bunch of relays and fuses for bits I won't have any more. I'd gathered together the engine bay relay diagrams from the Maintenance section, the wiring diagrams from the Haynes, a bunch of Sharpies, loads of cheap short zipties in different colours and - most importantly - a space where I could just leave things part way through without having to tidy up.





There's one wiring layout for the X25XE/X30XE with aircon (which was your only choice from Vauxhall in the UK, I think), and one for the poverty-spec edition without aircon that Opel made available elsewhere (up until about 1997, I read somewhere). This meant it was pretty straight forward to map out where every pin on each relay came and went, and from that which ones I didn't need any longer, and also which connections I needed to keep.


Testing as I went along was fairly easy. I dragged a 12V battery in with me, hooked the loom up to that, and then carefully plugged shoved the wires for some interior bulbs into the fan and pump connectors. By then grounding out the temp sensors in different combinations, I could make the bulbs light up without having to faff about with the actual hardware  :D


In all, I got rid of probably half a dozen relays and a couple of fuses for the fans, pump, washers & wipers and the Secondary Air Injection. The ECU doesn't get any feedback from the SAI, it just switches the pump on through a relay, but it will complain if there's no resistance on that circuit. The simple answer is to replace the lot with an inline 100 Ohm or so resistor, so the ECU effectively sees less coming back than it sent out.  ;)





You'll also see in the top left of that pic one of the tools that I found indispensable for this project - a set of terminal removal widgets for about a fiver from Amazon. You grab your loom connector, squint at it until you reckon you can figure out where the prong is that locks each pin into the connector, then work your way round the widgets to find out which one is the right shape to press the prong in with a bit of wiggling. After a while, you get used to looking at a connector and having a good idea which widget you're going to need. There's videos on the youtubes that'll explain it in much more detail, but once you get the knack you're sorted.  :y


55
Omega Gallery / Re: The invisible Omega
« on: 28 June 2022, 10:28:15 »
Then things started breaking  ::)


First up was the fuel pump, and in hindsight it wasn't much of a surprise. It had been sat in a tank of stale fuel for about five years whilst the car was sitting around; occasionally getting started, occasionally getting topped up with a splash of fresh dinosaur juice. Then I'd started to put it to work with lots of moving the tank about, lots of short runs, and probably worst of all - a pretty much empty tank. Checked the fuses, the relay, the continuity and even tried hooking it up to 12V out of the tank, but it was having none of it. Luckily new ones are readily available and replacement is even easier when you've got an invisible car  :y





There was all kinds of muck in the bottom of the swirl pot, including some bits of yellow tape. Sock filter had done its job though, and a new one came with the pump, so I swilled it all out and clipped it back together.





Not long after, I suffered a complete wheel failure  :o  The label in the hardware shop had said they were good for 150kg, but maybe that figure was calculated for a zero gravity environment  ::)  Turns out the wheels were basically pressed baked bean tin lids and didn't take well to being dragged around the not so flat garage floor and driveway.





Couldn't get to the other wheels to unscrew them from the bottom of the collapsed trolley, and couldn't even move the trolley about much with all that weight ! Popped to Screwfix for some much bigger one-piece nylon ones, built a new subframe and eventually jacked the trolley up to get it fitted.  :)





These are the times when you pop out to do one simple little job in the half hour you've got available, and it escalates to something that takes you way longer to sort out - then you realise you never got that original little job done either ...  :'( ::)


56


It's not different, and it's not delivered ;)

Listing is for Collection Only. From Essex.

The Saab V6 GM genuine pump at £29.95 that I linked to was free delivery. Doesn't matter now as somebody bought it.

It was collection only. From Dunmow. In Essex.

I know because I looked at it.

Perhaps the internet works different at your end DG, as it definitely said Free Delivery when I clicked on it  ;D



Just bloody buy one and stop thinking

Oh I did. At the start of the week. From the link that Enceladus gave, thanks. Took all of 37 seconds ...  8)


57
Omega Gallery / Re: The invisible Omega
« on: 23 June 2022, 23:11:25 »
I'd just keep starting it up occasionally, with a big, daft grin on my face.  ;D


Well, it'd be rude not to ...  ;) ;D

58
Omega Gallery / Re: The invisible Omega
« on: 23 June 2022, 23:09:44 »

The keen-eyed amongst you who watched the video may have noticed it revving to about 9,000 RPM before I quickly shut it off  ;D  The keen-eyed amongst you may have also noticed the complete lack of a closed intake system. There was probably at least one of you sat there shouting "unmetered airflow!" at the screen. I hear ya folks, I just needed to know that it'd fire up and I'd not broken the bonds of the immobiliser, ECU and engine  :y

Now that I knew I could start the engine at will, it was time to bolt a few bits on so I could run it for longer than a few seconds. Time for a quick checklist;

  • Radiator and expansion tank for the coolant
  • Multirams for the air metering
  • Vacuum lines from the plenum all needed to go somewhere
  • AC compressor
  • Power steering pump
  • Maybe some kind of exhaust ?

Dealing with the cooling at the front was easy as it was just connecting up pipes and mounting the expansion tank in about the right place. But round the back there's the Heater Bypass Valve, which looks after the flow to the cabin. Except I didn't have a cabin any more. And it gets opened & closed by vacuum from the controls inside the cabin. So no control. So random coolant gushing everywhere. Which would have been bad. I ditched the HBV and used some coolant pipe to act as a bypass between the coolant transfer pipe (the big stainless pipe which comes round the side of the engine from the rad) to the coolant bridge - I figured on this being the same flow as when the cabin heating's switched off.



The multirams were simple - just bolt up what was sat in the storage boxes.

The vacuum lines needed a bit of thought, however. I started out with the guide from the maintenance section, but given I had no cabin heating or HBV, figured I wouldn't need the upper vacuum reservoir. This was lucky, because I discovered I'd thrown it away with the car   With no vac reservoir, I just tee'd the vac line back on itself at the main brake servo line. And yes, I'd taken the entire brake servo out of the car too, so I just mounted that up in place with some more wood and connected the vac line up to the plenum. The only remaining vac line not connected was the one that'd go to the carbon canister for the fuel vapour purge, so I just blocked it up for now.





Aircon is a big complicated mess of pipework, compressors, unhealthy gases and assorted gubbins I just didn't want to be dealing with - so I had decided long ago it'd get ditched. Luckily I'm not the first one to deal with that, and the simple answer is to fit a shorter aux belt and bypass the pulley. It's a 6PK1900 or equivalent you want in this scenario - which means a 6 rib belt of 1900mm length. When I took the old one off, it was ripe for replacement anyway.



Power steering was something I reckoned I might be keeping though, but I wasn't sure if the pump was lubricated by the power steering fluid itself and would burn out if I ran it dry. So I hooked up the hoses, and the fluid reservoir, and the steering box and filled it back up with fluid. Yep, I'd grabbed them all too  :y



The exhaust would definitely needed sorting too, as running this with open headers is loud. And when I say loud, that's proper loud with a capital OWWWWW  :o  I bumped into a neighbour who said he'd heard me firing it up while he was walking his dog - he lives at least a mile away   ;D

Ah well, that's a job for another day then, but maybe I'll just fire it up one more time before I put it away ...




59
Omega Gallery / Re: The invisible Omega
« on: 23 June 2022, 20:11:12 »
Thar she blows!  ;D
Now, what are you going to do with it?


Spoiler alert : Keep tinkering with it off and on for at least another year, whilst life stuff gets in the way...  ::) ;D




60
Omega Gallery / Re: The invisible Omega
« on: 23 June 2022, 00:24:37 »
I've got an "engine stand" already, but that's more for mounting a block on while you strip it down & build it back up. The centre of gravity is quite high as it's sized for convenience while you're stood up, whereas a running engine would have a lot of wobble on it, I reckoned. Besides, I'm cheap, so I probably bought one that's not even rated for the weight of this engine anyways  :D


There's countless youtubes I've seen of (mostly American) folks running their big V8s on some pretty fancy looking "engine test stands". They've got custom fuel tanks and gauge panels and are infinitely adjustable for all the different engines in one's vast collection. Oooh, that'll do me, I thought. Then I looked at the price of some of them - and they were five times more than I paid for the whole damn car  ;D





So reality set in, I cast my eye around the garage and started measuring up for some nice sturdy engine brackets. After a bit of rough & ready measuring with the engine dangling off the hoist, I came up with a layout that had just enough space for the engine to drop in and the sump to clear the supporting buttresses. Yes, it would have probably been easier/fancier/better/instagrammable to make it out of welded up box section, but the welder's buried at the back of the garage, I've no box section and quite frankly, I couldn't be arsed. No one was going to see it anyway, were they...?  :y  There's nothing actually fixing the engine down - it's just the weight pushing the threads of the original mounts into some holes I drilled in the wood.





Without the counterweight of the gearbox on the back of it though, the engine's very front heavy relative to the mounts, so I bolted the back end down with some flat bar. I had no idea whether revving the nuts off it later on would be enough to get it to jump out of the brackets, so a bit of belt & braces insurance was probably in order.





With the engine secure, I connected up the fuel tank to the supply & return on the engine, connected my "loom in a box" to the engine & the battery and rigged up the fuel pump to a switch on the control panel. This meant that the first thing I could do was prime the fuel system and build up pressure.


Well, we'll call it that, eh. What it actually meant was that I could (slightly more safely) deal with the pressurised fuel spraying everywhere because I'd forgotten to check the lines were nipped up tight  ::) >:D 


All systems ready for Go then. If I've got it right, the next sound you hear will be the sweet, gentle purr of an X30XE ...





With a fire extinguisher just out of shot, there was nothing left to do on a quiet Sunday afternoon but switch on the master cutoff, press the big red button and see what happens ...


Go on, click here. You're all intrigued now  :y


https://www.cuyahoga.co.uk/wp-content/uploads/2022/06/20210124_160907_1280.mp4










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