Omega Owners Forum
Omega Help Area => Omega General Help => Topic started by: tigers_gonads on 05 September 2018, 16:54:28
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Mine is throwing up a Gas Pressure too high warning when the car is warming up.
Normally within the fist 5 minutes of running.
Stag software says the gas pressure is around the 1.1 mark or slightly lower from start upto normal running temp.
Manifold pressure is around the 0.3 mark again from cold through to normal temp.
Once you have travelled a few miles from cold, you get no problem.
Have I got a dodgy sensor ?
TIA :)
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Check the fuel tank purge switch it’s the breather for the tank located around the front window screen wiper motor. Should be able to blow down the pipes. Also check the seal on the fuel tank filler. As that’s the secondary vent seal for pressure
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If only people could read... ::)
Where is the sensor located in the engine bay? Could simply be a result of heat transfer from an adjacent coolant pipe ;)
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Is this before it switches to gas? If so, wonder if the shut off solenoids (normally one in vap and one on tank valve) are not shutting off
(assuming this is the sensor between the vap an injectors)
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Check the fuel tank purge switch it’s the breather for the tank located around the front window screen wiper motor. Should be able to blow down the pipes. Also check the seal on the fuel tank filler. As that’s the secondary vent seal for pressure
LPG mate ;)
Thanks :)
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If only people could read... ::)
Where is the sensor located in the engine bay? Could simply be a result of heat transfer from an adjacent coolant pipe ;)
Its strapped to the cable tray that runs across the front of the engine.
Same place its been on 2 V6's over 6 years so I doubt that's the cause :)
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Is this before it switches to gas? If so, wonder if the shut off solenoids (normally one in vap and one on tank valve) are not shutting off
(assuming this is the sensor between the vap an injectors)
No
It is always during the first few minutes of running on lpg when it can be a little lumpy.
Once the temprature starts to rise, its running with no problem :y
Yes
The pipe is inline on the pipe from one side of the KME Gold Vapeoriser to the 2,4,6 bank
The vapeoriser water feed is taken from the block to the vaporiser then back to the HBV so it gets a nice flow of coolent.
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Can you easily swap it to the 135 side?
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Is this before it switches to gas? If so, wonder if the shut off solenoids (normally one in vap and one on tank valve) are not shutting off
(assuming this is the sensor between the vap an injectors)
No
It is always during the first few minutes of running on lpg when it can be a little lumpy.
Once the temprature starts to rise, its running with no problem :y
Yes
The pipe is inline on the pipe from one side of the KME Gold Vapeoriser to the 2,4,6 bank
The vapeoriser water feed is taken from the block to the vaporiser then back to the HBV so it gets a nice flow of coolent.
Should the Vap not take its feed just before the HBV and then back in after the Heater Matrix. ie, in parallel with the HBV / Matrix
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Can you easily swap it to the 135 side?
Not without chopping pipes :(
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Is this before it switches to gas? If so, wonder if the shut off solenoids (normally one in vap and one on tank valve) are not shutting off
(assuming this is the sensor between the vap an injectors)
No
It is always during the first few minutes of running on lpg when it can be a little lumpy.
Once the temprature starts to rise, its running with no problem :y
Yes
The pipe is inline on the pipe from one side of the KME Gold Vapeoriser to the 2,4,6 bank
The vapeoriser water feed is taken from the block to the vaporiser then back to the HBV so it gets a nice flow of coolent.
Should the Vap not take its feed just before the HBV and then back in after the Heater Matrix. ie, in parallel with the HBV / Matrix
I cut the top pipe which goes from the thermostat - HBV and put the vaporiser inline so you get a constant flow.
I will proof read what I type one day :-[
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Should the Vap not take its feed just before the HBV and then back in after the Heater Matrix. ie, in parallel with the HBV / Matrix
I cut the top pipe which goes from the thermostat - HBV and put the vaporiser inline so you get a constant flow.
I will proof read what I type one day :-[
If you suspect the Vap or a Tempreture issue, cheapest way to start is to give a good Flush and Reverse Flush the Vap as few times, whats the Coolant like and when was it changed last.
I had a Corsa Temp / Vap issue recently that was throwing all sorts of wonderfull problems at me, about 4 flushes later with Dish washer tablets and a drop of Fernox in the Cooling Sysytem soon sorted out over a few weeks, best do iut now before the Cold Weather licks in ;)
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Should the Vap not take its feed just before the HBV and then back in after the Heater Matrix. ie, in parallel with the HBV / Matrix
I cut the top pipe which goes from the thermostat - HBV and put the vaporiser inline so you get a constant flow.
I will proof read what I type one day :-[
If you suspect the Vap or a Tempreture issue, cheapest way to start is to give a good Flush and Reverse Flush the Vap as few times, whats the Coolant like and when was it changed last.
I had a Corsa Temp / Vap issue recently that was throwing all sorts of wonderfull problems at me, about 4 flushes later with Dish washer tablets and a drop of Fernox in the Cooling Sysytem soon sorted out over a few weeks, best do iut now before the Cold Weather licks in ;)
Mmmmm :-\
I have been setting the heater to 20 deg at start up over the past few days but couldn't make up my mind if it was any better of not :-\
Last coolant change must be getting on for 3 years ago when the piggin oil cooler went :'(
Even though the heater matrix gets hot pretty quick, it can't do any harm to pull the pipes off the vaporiser and give it a flush.
Come to think of it, I did have a problem earlier on in the year with the gas pressure fluctuating but thought it may be the vaporiser which after all is 6 years old now.
Me thinks you might be onto something there :)
I'll have a play over the next few days .................
Cheers lads :)
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At what temp are you switching to LPG. In TBE (KME Gold, Motogas shitty injectors), I have to raise it significantly to prevent stalling.
-
Should the Vap not take its feed just before the HBV and then back in after the Heater Matrix. ie, in parallel with the HBV / Matrix
I cut the top pipe which goes from the thermostat - HBV and put the vaporiser inline so you get a constant flow.
I will proof read what I type one day :-[
If you suspect the Vap or a Tempreture issue, cheapest way to start is to give a good Flush and Reverse Flush the Vap as few times, whats the Coolant like and when was it changed last.
I had a Corsa Temp / Vap issue recently that was throwing all sorts of wonderfull problems at me, about 4 flushes later with Dish washer tablets and a drop of Fernox in the Cooling Sysytem soon sorted out over a few weeks, best do iut now before the Cold Weather licks in ;)
Mmmmm :-\
I have been setting the heater to 20 deg at start up over the past few days but couldn't make up my mind if it was any better of not :-\
Last coolant change must be getting on for 3 years ago when the piggin oil cooler went :'(
Even though the heater matrix gets hot pretty quick, it can't do any harm to pull the pipes off the vaporiser and give it a flush.
Come to think of it, I did have a problem earlier on in the year with the gas pressure fluctuating but thought it may be the vaporiser which after all is 6 years old now.
Me thinks you might be onto something there :)
I'll have a play over the next few days .................
Cheers lads :)
Ive had quiet a few LPG Cars over the years now, all VX's ranging from 1.2 to 3.2, pretty much all of them have thrown a wobbly at some point or have come with the car when I acquired it, pretty much all the issues have been temperature related to do with the cooling system, or more to the point lack of heat or water flow, they all have thrown weird and wonderful faults ranging from Gas Pressure, Injector , solinold freezing, Miss fire, Ing issues or just switched back to Petrol or been slow to swtich on Gas.
Whilst Im no expert on LPG, water temp and flow would always be first call on any system that was working correctly, its a cheap fix should prove to sort the problem. ;)
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At what temp are you switching to LPG. In TBE (KME Gold, Motogas shitty injectors), I have to raise it significantly to prevent stalling.
Sorry, busy as opps yesterday / just seen this :-[
Settings as follows ............
Switch over to gas - 25deg
Switchover threshold - 560 rpm
Switchover time - 30 sec
Max gas RPM 6700 rpm
Max engine load on gas - 100%
Pressure error time - 300 Ms
Gas calibration temp 95 deg
Pressure operational (bar) 1.04
Pressure minimum (bar) 0.62
Pressure error time 300 ms
-
Should the Vap not take its feed just before the HBV and then back in after the Heater Matrix. ie, in parallel with the HBV / Matrix
I cut the top pipe which goes from the thermostat - HBV and put the vaporiser inline so you get a constant flow.
I will proof read what I type one day :-[
If you suspect the Vap or a Tempreture issue, cheapest way to start is to give a good Flush and Reverse Flush the Vap as few times, whats the Coolant like and when was it changed last.
I had a Corsa Temp / Vap issue recently that was throwing all sorts of wonderfull problems at me, about 4 flushes later with Dish washer tablets and a drop of Fernox in the Cooling Sysytem soon sorted out over a few weeks, best do iut now before the Cold Weather licks in ;)
Mmmmm :-\
I have been setting the heater to 20 deg at start up over the past few days but couldn't make up my mind if it was any better of not :-\
Last coolant change must be getting on for 3 years ago when the piggin oil cooler went :'(
Even though the heater matrix gets hot pretty quick, it can't do any harm to pull the pipes off the vaporiser and give it a flush.
Come to think of it, I did have a problem earlier on in the year with the gas pressure fluctuating but thought it may be the vaporiser which after all is 6 years old now.
Me thinks you might be onto something there :)
I'll have a play over the next few days .................
Cheers lads :)
Ive had quiet a few LPG Cars over the years now, all VX's ranging from 1.2 to 3.2, pretty much all of them have thrown a wobbly at some point or have come with the car when I acquired it, pretty much all the issues have been temperature related to do with the cooling system, or more to the point lack of heat or water flow, they all have thrown weird and wonderful faults ranging from Gas Pressure, Injector , solinold freezing, Miss fire, Ing issues or just switched back to Petrol or been slow to swtich on Gas.
Whilst Im no expert on LPG, water temp and flow would always be first call on any system that was working correctly, its a cheap fix should prove to sort the problem. ;)
:y :y
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At what temp are you switching to LPG. In TBE (KME Gold, Motogas shitty injectors), I have to raise it significantly to prevent stalling.
Sorry, busy as opps yesterday / just seen this :-[
Settings as follows ............
Switch over to gas - 25deg
Switchover threshold - 560 rpm
Switchover time - 30 sec
Max gas RPM 6700 rpm
Max engine load on gas - 100%
Pressure error time - 300 Ms
Gas calibration temp 95 deg
Pressure operational (bar) 1.04
Pressure minimum (bar) 0.62
Pressure error time 300 ms
As it happens during warm up stage, I'd increase that temp one, maybe add 10C, and see what its like then
-
At what temp are you switching to LPG. In TBE (KME Gold, Motogas shitty injectors), I have to raise it significantly to prevent stalling.
Sorry, busy as opps yesterday / just seen this :-[
Settings as follows ............
Switch over to gas - 25deg
Switchover threshold - 560 rpm
Switchover time - 30 sec
Max gas RPM 6700 rpm
Max engine load on gas - 100%
Pressure error time - 300 Ms
Gas calibration temp 95 deg
Pressure operational (bar) 1.04
Pressure minimum (bar) 0.62
Pressure error time 300 ms
As it happens during warm up stage, I'd increase that temp one, maybe add 10C, and see what its like then
Will do :y
I'll give it the weekend and report back
Cheers
-
At what temp are you switching to LPG. In TBE (KME Gold, Motogas shitty injectors), I have to raise it significantly to prevent stalling.
Sorry, busy as opps yesterday / just seen this :-[
Settings as follows ............
Switch over to gas - 25deg
Switchover threshold - 560 rpm
Switchover time - 30 sec
Max gas RPM 6700 rpm
Max engine load on gas - 100%
Pressure error time - 300 Ms
Gas calibration temp 95 deg
Pressure operational (bar) 1.04
Pressure minimum (bar) 0.62
Pressure error time 300 ms
As it happens during warm up stage, I'd increase that temp one, maybe add 10C, and see what its like then
Will do :y
I'll give it the weekend and report back
Cheers
Much better running now the temp is set to 35 deg.
When I get chance, i'll remove the vaporiser and give it as flush to see what comes out :y
What sort of pressure can these things take ?
Are we talking hosepipe or powerwasher ?
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Hose pipe is probably the best plan although I'd probably fill it with a solution of washing / dishwasher powder first and let it soak for a few mins then flush with water.
If muck comes out, it's obviously an indication that the whole system could do with a flush.