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[artsoul_no1]

2002 2.6

Driving on the motorway engine oil light flickers on and off but no oil level low message. look behind and blue smoke and loss of power.

When I check under bonnet oil dripping below twin rubber hoses at front of plenum.

AA man says probably piston rings. Car had oil change at a garage a few weeks ago but has driven okay locally since and I just cleared the breather pipes. Oil still in sump and level seems okay.

Coolant not contaminated at all and cam cover gaskets okay.

Is it a goner???

[Doctor Gollum]

The wrong oil would drop the pressure enough, especially in a worn engine and hot.

[dave the builder]

Vauxhall oil pressure sensors/switches are very well known to fail and squirt oil everywhere
not sure where it is on a Y26SE 

[Nick W]

Vauxhall oil pressure sensors/switches are very well known to fail and squirt oil everywhere
not sure where it is on a Y26SE 

Just to the left of the crank pulley as you look down from the bumper. As you say it's a common failure and dirt cheap - from any motor factors because it's used on lots of engines - to replace. Which should be done as soon as you have doubts about it. Then you wash the worst of the oil off, and check it's no longer leaking.

That doesn't help with the blue smoke, which is oil getting into the combustion chamber. But, if the oil level isn't dropping noticeably I would be considering the valve stem seals long before the piston rings. Especially as 2.6s were particularly prone to the seals failing. A compression test should be the next step, unless the equipment to do a leak down test is available.

[dave the builder]

so the sensor is close to the oil " twin rubber hoses at front of plenum" where it's dripping ,
OIL spray from a leaking sensor could travel to the cats and exhaust manifolds etc and be burning /blue smoke 
" artsoul_no1" needs to confirm where the oil is leaking and if it's blue smoke out of the exhaust or just burning off .
lack of power could be a contaminated MAF if oil is being slung about by belts 

though I agree a compression test is a good idea if oil is being burnt in cylinder / smoke from the tailpipe

[VXL V6]

so the sensor is close to the oil " twin rubber hoses at front of plenum" where it's dripping ,
OIL spray from a leaking sensor could travel to the cats and exhaust manifolds etc and be burning /blue smoke 
" artsoul_no1" needs to confirm where the oil is leaking and if it's blue smoke out of the exhaust or just burning off .
lack of power could be a contaminated MAF if oil is being slung about by belts 

though I agree a compression test is a good idea if oil is being burnt in cylinder / smoke from the tailpipe

Oil Pressure lamp flickering is usually pressure sensor failure, but obviously needs properly checking.

Oil from the pressure sensor tends to pool on the sump lip, front crank seal leaks in that area too. Oil pressure sensor leaks on the V6 tend not to be as spectacular as the same issue on 1.2 Corsa's in my experience!

2.6 known to have inferior valve stems seals in production (was a cost cutting measure at the factory according to Geoff Harrison)

[artsoul_no1]

Thanks for all the advice

Going to have a proper look tomorrow. Can i start the engine with the plenum removed to see where oil may ne cming from  or is that a no no

[Andy H]

Thanks for all the advice

Going to have a proper look tomorrow. Can i start the engine with the plenum removed to see where oil may ne cming from  or is that a no no

more like no no no 
There will be no throttles attached so If it starts it will be like starting the engine with the throttle pedal mashed into the carpet.

[dave the builder]

Does it say on the receipt what oil was put in at oil change ?
all the computers and motor factors say use 5w30 fully synthetic BUT
Omega owners here say 10w40 semi synthetic   
in my experience with 100K mile vauxhalls of the era ,5w30 semi is too p155y .unless they have had good quality oil ,regular service etc .
5w30 will leak from seals, blow past rings ,leak through VSO seals, strip built up deposits from parts of the engine etc
I've had a 1.6 with stuck piston rings AFTER a garage did a flush and used 5w30 oil (to reduce emissions  )
I had to strip that engine ,clean everything and rebuild it 
the high emissions proved to be an injector leaking once rebuilt ,and it passed MOT with virtually zero CO & HCs 

You should check if the blue smoke is actually coming from OUT the exhaust as part of your initial investigation IMHO

[artsoul_no1]

I wont take the plenum off and try to start it then 


RE the oil: I asked for 10/40 oil but have a feeling it was 30 cant lay my hands on the receipt but remember seeing it. Didnt think it would be a problem at the time

will an oil change to 10/40 cure it?

blue smoke was definitely coming out the exhaust. Was thinking of taking as much apart as I can at the front today and at least cleaning it and having a look but realistically if smoke is out the exhaust is there any way it could get out the sensor or through the plenum and be pushed back into the engine and through the exhaust?

I am hoping its curable as I love the car but in my heart of hearts I think its not viable to repair if it internal seals as I am not that confident on engines

[Nick W]

I wont take the plenum off and try to start it then 


RE the oil: I asked for 10/40 oil but have a feeling it was 30 cant lay my hands on the receipt but remember seeing it. Didnt think it would be a problem at the time

will an oil change to 10/40 cure it?

blue smoke was definitely coming out the exhaust. Was thinking of taking as much apart as I can at the front today and at least cleaning it and having a look but realistically if smoke is out the exhaust is there any way it could get out the sensor or through the plenum and be pushed back into the engine and through the exhaust?

I am hoping its curable as I love the car but in my heart of hearts I think its not viable to repair if it internal seals as I am not that confident on engines

An external leak like the pressure sensor cannot make the exhaust smoke, unless you have an air leak so bad we would have all heard it by now.


Oil in the exhaust gets there three ways:


from the breather plumbed into the intake - if there is loose oil in the plenum and runners then you need to inspect the entire breather system. That not blocking up is the real reason that the overly frequent oil changes recommended here might be worthwhile.


inadequately sealing piston rings letting the small end lubrication and/or the oil sloshing around the crankcase into the combustion chamber. This is the worst scenario, as fixing it properly requires major work and expense. But it is the least likely as Vx V6s aren't prone to it.


worn valve stems/guide/seals allowing oil into the combustion chamber. This is the most likely, especially if the oil consumption isn't particularly high - bad piston rings will burn much more oil. This is usually more of a problem on start-up, and can normally be ignored. If it happens all the time the engine is running, then fixing it will be necessary. And that means pulling the heads to do a proper job, as you cannot evaluate stem and guide wear any other way.

[artsoul_no1]

Thanks nick I clear the pipes and black top part of the plenum regularly and is never really badly clogged. Is there anywhere else I should be looking  is there another part where these pipes connect to that I can disconnect and clean

[Nick W]

Thanks nick I clear the pipes and black top part of the plenum regularly and is never really badly clogged. Is there anywhere else I should be looking  is there another part where these pipes connect to that I can disconnect and clean

The actual breather box is behind the drivers side head, masked by the brake servo. It is removable, and can be cleaned by drilling the rivets that hold it together. It's not easy to get off without a considerable amount of dismantling.


It probably isn't your problem.

[Raeturbo]

Once warm try taking the car for a run and let it get to full vacuum by letting it run down a nice long hill in third gear, then see if there is loads of smoke as you pull off if there is it is very likely to be valve stem seals as said here earlier.

[artsoul_no1]

is the car drivable like this if it is the valve stems or likely to conk out.

is t drivable for a while locally and just top up with oil or will it kill the engine in double quick time

[artsoul_no1]

Took the plenum off and a coating of oil in the 6 "tubes" gave everything  a clean and put it all back together. started up and blue smoke but may be from yesterday.

As its a car that I will potentially run into the ground if it is valve siem seals is it worth sticking some wynns stop smoke in there to thicken the oil?

[artsoul_no1]

Sorry lat one I promise

also looked at oil pressure sensor and caked with oil.

so next plan is oil change to 10/40 and then maybe wynns sop smoke treatment and then adios to car I think . sad times  :'(

[dave the builder]

Was the car was OK a few weeks ago ?(running with no smoke or issues )  BEFORE the oil change and you cleaning the breathers out   
maybe swapping to 10w40 semi synthetic and double checking you have connected the breathers up correctly (we all make mistakes ) may solve the issue . BUT remember it will take a while to burn off oil inside the exhaust  and a new oil pressure sender switch/sensor (about £10)
"stop smoke" thickens the oil but 10w40 is thicker anyway .
how many miles has it done ? has it been well serviced in it's lifetime ? has anything else happened recently  ? ran low on oil recently ?
the hot weather won't have helped if you where driving with p155y 5w30 in 40 degree traffic jams .

so many unknowns and unanswered questions to just to internet diagnose without the full story .
many a car has been scrapped after a flippant miss diagnosis comment by a recovery company driver 

[artsoul_no1]

it's done 127,000 I've put 45000 on since i got it 9 years ago.

I do mainly local trips 5-10 miles so not the best way of getting it up to temperature and giving it a good run but it's always started first time and run smoothly. I do the usual plugs and filters and oil changes and normally do the oil change myself with vauxhall semi synthetic 10/40. Last year the sump plug gave up and was just spinning as i tightened it up and as car was in for MOT this year and they were doing exhaust I didnt have the sucker machine to pull the oil out so got them to do it. I requested 10/40 but think it was 10/30 (definitely a 30 on there??).

As i was just happy to get the car back and through an MOT i didn't take much notice of it. Been driving around locally last few weeks no trouble but then went on a motorway trip and 20 miles in hit a slight incline oil pressure light came on and off and smoke out the back.

My gut feel is it's linked to the oil so for 20 quid will change the oil and see how that goes.

the real kicker is brand new exhaust and 4 new tyres and it may be kaput

Appreciate everyone's help on here though still the best site around for help and advice.

Bit worried about taking it for a test drive after changing oil or anything or will it just be a bit smokey and run okay without too much damage

[dave the builder]

You can get the car warmed up on private land / drive (flat, not too sloped  )rev to get the exhaust hot 
go for a test drive once the smoke has lessened hopefully   
pick a time and route to avoid traffic ,just in case 

if that goes well i'd stick a bottle of Cataclean in

it may be down to having an oil change at a garage that is not familiar with older cars ,plus the recommended 5w30 on service data etc  and the garage probably don't even stock 10w40 Semi Synthetic Engine Oil ACEA A3

(Vauxhall trade club 10w40 is no longer readily available )

I hope it goes well for you  ,As finding a replacement car as comfortable and nice to drive won't be easy ,as many OOFers have found out 

[Doctor Gollum]

it's done 127,000 I've put 45000 on since i got it 9 years ago.

I do mainly local trips 5-10 miles so not the best way of getting it up to temperature and giving it a good run but it's always started first time and run smoothly. I do the usual plugs and filters and oil changes and normally do the oil change myself with vauxhall semi synthetic 10/40. Last year the sump plug gave up and was just spinning as i tightened it up and as car was in for MOT this year and they were doing exhaust I didnt have the sucker machine to pull the oil out so got them to do it. I requested 10/40 but think it was 10/30 (definitely a 30 on there??).

As i was just happy to get the car back and through an MOT i didn't take much notice of it. Been driving around locally last few weeks no trouble but then went on a motorway trip and 20 miles in hit a slight incline oil pressure light came on and off and smoke out the back.

My gut feel is it's linked to the oil so for 20 quid will change the oil and see how that goes.

the real kicker is brand new exhaust and 4 new tyres and it may be kaput

Appreciate everyone's help on here though still the best site around for help and advice.

Bit worried about taking it for a test drive after changing oil or anything or will it just be a bit smokey and run okay without too much damage

Serviced properly, they will easily do twice that mileage, if not more.

A compression test will give an indication as to the overall health of the engine.

[biggriffin]

Does it say on the receipt what oil was put in at oil change ?
all the computers and motor factors say use 5w30 fully synthetic BUT
Omega owners here say 10w40 semi synthetic   
in my experience with 100K mile vauxhalls of the era ,5w30 semi is too p155y .unless they have had good quality oil ,regular service etc .
5w30 will leak from seals, blow past rings ,leak through VSO seals, strip built up deposits from parts of the engine etc
I've had a 1.6 with stuck piston rings AFTER a garage did a flush and used 5w30 oil (to reduce emissions  )
I had to strip that engine ,clean everything and rebuild it 
the high emissions proved to be an injector leaking once rebuilt ,and it passed MOT with virtually zero CO & HCs 

You should check if the blue smoke is actually coming from OUT the exhaust as part of your initial investigation IMHO

.

 Beg to differ. My last Omega had done 140k and I bought it with 50k on and only ever used full fat 5/30, my previous was also on 5/30, no issues.

[cam.in.head]

i suppose it depends on how the car was maintained and driven before you got it. a very good engine with very little wear would no doubt be happy for years to come on a thinner oil whereas an unknown history car may well have wear that a thinner oil will overcome and present issues.

[dave the builder]

The OP's issues may not be down to p155y 5w30
I base my comments on what others have said here on OOF ,plus various Vauxhall forums over the years about 100K vauxhalls and 5w30
plus maintaining all the families Vauxhalls for may years .

It's £18 for 6 litres of 10W40 ACEA A3 (petrol cars) so worth a try IMHO

[LC0112G]

Thin oil certainly won't help, but continuous smoke on moderate acceleration/throttle (climbing a hill on a motorway) would suggest piston rings to me.

Try changing the oil for 10W40, and if that works, great. If it doesn't then compression test and leak down test to confirm piston ring state.

The car won't just 'conk out' leaving you stranded unless it gets much, much worse. You'd probably hear nasty mechanical noises for a while before it dies like that.