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Prefacelift handbrake back plate removal

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Nick W:
You need to remove the hub to replace the backing plates. That will mean new wheel bearings.


While I don't consider that a particularly difficult job, I wouldn't be doing it when I could fit a new hole to the existing plate using either of the methods mentioned.

addy:
Thank you everyone for your help, much appreciated. I do have a set of the proper XZN bits. But don't fancy disturbing the hub, as the bearing is OK.  Will go the suggestions route to fit a new pin, into the old slot.

LC0112G:
Done it a couple of times on the Carlton - which is the same as what you show there. Never managed to get all 4 bolts out on any backing plate, ever, even with the correct bit and the trailing arm off the car and in a bench vice. The bolts seem to be made of cheese, and the spline heads (yes I know XZN) round off/strip easily.

IIRC a couple of the bolts are in blind holes, and those ones do come out. But at least one - perhaps 2 - are screwed all the way through the rear trailing arm, and the far end is exposed, which leads to that end rusting/crudding up, so there is rust/crud to shift at both ends. I had to resort to butchery - cutting a slot in the head with an angle grinder, and then belting the b'jesus out of it with a chisel/drift to get it turning. I haven't got oxy or anything capable of applying massive amounts of heat, but that might work.

When I did it the bolts were still available from VX for not much money, so it wasn't a problem. However, you might want to check they are still available before you end up butchering anything. I think the p/n is VX-11092671, OP-20-48-001. It might be possible to use an ordinary screw, but I've got a feeling the thread is metric fine so you might struggle to find them.

addy:
Thanks everyone for your help. I managed to get a pin through, from the backside. The way I did it was, just tease the back plate up slightly. Where the cut out is, for the caliper to fit onto the hub. Then with a bit of faffing about, got a pin through. Then tapped the plate back into shape. Works great. The other side of the same plate. I did as was suggested and fitted, the pin from the back with a small washer, to stop the head pulling through.

After checking all bolts, to make sure not missed tightening any of them. On the replacement diff. And on the original prop and driveshafts. Finally got to fill the diff. Then had that great feeling, when car moved under its own power. Now just got to give it a clean. Then hopefully book MOT and it passes.

Thanks again for all the help and info.

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