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[Taxi_Driver]

Does this sound like a knackered controller?

I have a 7day timer that controls the hot water and central heating independantly.
Its a Horstman channel Plus and also one of those 3 way valve jobbies

If the hot water comes on....all is fine...I get hot water.

If the heating and hot water comes on ...again is fine...I get hot water and central heating.

If the heating comes on its own....all is not fine....i get zilch.....no heating   But the led is light on the controller to say the heating is on.
When its like this.....ive checked the pump....its not running.....nor does the boiler fire up.

Should add pump runs fine if hot water is on or hot water and central heating.

My temp fix.....is ive set the hot water to 24hours on.....central heating switches on and off just fine like this.

Its been doing it for the last 3 days.

The only thing i can think it is ....the controller is fubared somehow  :-/

[Kevin Wood]

I doubt it's the controller as this just supplies power to the valve to open it up to the central heating circuit and that is clearly working.

The problem will be associated with a little microswitch in the valve. This is supposed to fire up the boiler and pump when the valve moves into the "central heating on" position. Since these are already powered when the hot water is on, it works in that configuration.

You might find that the valve is sticking so it doesn't fully open and thus doesn't get far enough round to activate the microswitch, or that the microswitch itself is knackered or needs its position adjusting.

You should be able to take the cover off the valve motor and observe what's going on. Beware that there will be mains voltages inside it if the supply to the central heating is on at the spur box which feeds it!

A squirt of WD40 on the gears in there may help, or there may be a visible clue as to why the switch is not operating.

Kevin

[CaptainZok]

You could try a pm to Boiler Man TD.

[STMO123]

Had this trouble with mine TD. A gentle tap on the three way valve sorted it for a while, but had to replace it eventually.

[Taxi_Driver]

I doubt it's the controller as this just supplies power to the valve to open it up to the central heating circuit and that is clearly working.

The problem will be associated with a little microswitch in the valve. This is supposed to fire up the boiler and pump when the valve moves into the "central heating on" position. Since these are already powered when the hot water is on, it works in that configuration.

You might find that the valve is sticking so it doesn't fully open and thus doesn't get far enough round to activate the microswitch, or that the microswitch itself is knackered or needs its position adjusting.

You should be able to take the cover off the valve motor and observe what's going on. Beware that there will be mains voltages inside it if the supply to the central heating is on at the spur box which feeds it!

A squirt of WD40 on the gears in there may help, or there may be a visible clue as to why the switch is not operating.

Kevin

Oh buggar  

Thought it would be easy option of changing the controller....

I have noticed that the 3 way valve is in the in central heating position when just heating selected on the controller....but from your post theres more too it than that  :-/

Reason i thought it was the controller...was when both hot water on and central heaing on the 3 way valve stays in the middle to start with then when hot water upto temp it moves over heating only and still works ok.....but if i turn off the hot water the heating goes off too  :-/

[Taxi_Driver]

You could try a pm to Boiler Man TD.

Good idea....

[Admin]

Or you could wait for Mark to comment...

Yes he happens to be a an expert on Central heating system too (one day I'll find something he is not entirely knowledgeable on!  )

[Marks DTM Calib]

Motorised valve.....as said, sounds like a goosed micro switch....

What you have to remember is that on most installs of this type, the programmer simply feeds a live feed via the room or tank stat to the valve, the valve then moves to the required position and presses the micro switch......its the micro switch that fires the boiler and turns the pump on.....

If the main valve body is still ok and dependent on the make of valve....you can simply swap the motor and control body over to save draining the system.....

[Boiler Man]

Hi Guys

Without being able to carry out a couple of tests myself, I suspect it is as 2 off the lads have previosly suggested, that is a faulty 3 way valve. Is it a 3 way valve or 2 zone valves?

It sounds like the micro switch is faulty, it isnt always the case of the switch not making, but that it isnt putting out the required supply to start the boiler and pump.

Do you have the details of the valve motor?

most modern valves have motors that are easy replaced without a drain down.

[Taxi_Driver]

Hi Guys

Without being able to carry out a couple of tests myself, I suspect it is as 2 off the lads have previosly suggested, that is a faulty 3 way valve. Is it a 3 way valve or 2 zone valves?

It sounds like the micro switch is faulty, it isnt always the case of the switch not making, but that it isnt putting out the required supply to start the boiler and pump.

Do you have the details of the valve motor?

most modern valves have motors that are easy replaced without a drain down.

Its a 3 way valve.....says on it 'acl lifestyle mid position valve' and prolly been fitted for about 12 years, so not exactly modern  

[Auto Addict]

Hi Guys

Without being able to carry out a couple of tests myself, I suspect it is as 2 off the lads have previosly suggested, that is a faulty 3 way valve. Is it a 3 way valve or 2 zone valves?

It sounds like the micro switch is faulty, it isnt always the case of the switch not making, but that it isnt putting out the required supply to start the boiler and pump.

Do you have the details of the valve motor?

most modern valves have motors that are easy replaced without a drain down.

Its a 3 way valve.....says on it 'acl lifestyle mid position valve' and prolly been fitted for about 12 years, so not exactly modern  

It's done well if it's lasted 12 years......

[Taxi_Driver]

Had this trouble with mine TD. A gentle tap on the three way valve sorted it for a while, but had to replace it eventually.

Ive just tried that....to see if it sorted it....and stopping short at smashing it with a baseball bat it made no difference.  

Ive just had a little play with the controller again.....and boiler turned off.....coz controller is right next to boiler and its difficult to hear with boiler on.

If i press the hot water button you can hear a definate click from the controller...probably a relay switching....if i press the hot water button again....again another click.

If i press the heating button......nothing but silence.....on light comes on tho, same as it does for the hot water.

Is it still likely to be the 3way valve??

I am appreciating the replies and learning very fast how the system works  

I'll soon be a heating engineer  

[STMO123]

Switch it to heating only, then tap (welly) the valve. It will only run the little motor if its not already in the position it needs to be in?

F*ck me, does that make sense?

[Taxi_Driver]

Switch it to heating only, then tap (welly) the valve. It will only run the little motor if its not already in the position it needs to be in?

F*ck me, does that make sense?

I did try it that way.....heating only on.....pointer on the valve pointed at heating only and i whacked the valve from all angles with a big heavish rubber torch (1st thing that came to hand   )

Tho ang on......i think your saying your valve didnt change position until lightly tapped.....mine does change position correctly.....but as other posts have pointed out theres a microswitch in the valve that might not be working  :-/

[MikeDundee]

(one day I'll find something he is not entirely knowledgeable on!  )

How about a mitsubishi Triton

[STMO123]

Yep. Mine was a sticky motor, yours sounds as if it's more serious. Same outcome in the end I'm afraid. Money

[Taxi_Driver]

Hi Guys

Without being able to carry out a couple of tests myself, I suspect it is as 2 off the lads have previosly suggested, that is a faulty 3 way valve. Is it a 3 way valve or 2 zone valves?

It sounds like the micro switch is faulty, it isnt always the case of the switch not making, but that it isnt putting out the required supply to start the boiler and pump.

Do you have the details of the valve motor?

most modern valves have motors that are easy replaced without a drain down.

Its a 3 way valve.....says on it 'acl lifestyle mid position valve' and prolly been fitted for about 12 years, so not exactly modern  

It's done well if it's lasted 12 years......

Bet you carnt guess how old the boiler is?   and that still works

[CaptainZok]

Bet you carnt guess how old the boiler is?   and that still works

I'm sure Mrs TD would be rather cross if she caught you calling her a boiler TD.  

[STMO123]

Bet you carnt guess how old the boiler is?   and that still works

I'm sure Mrs TD would be rather cross if she caught you calling her a boiler TD.  

and sending the poor lady out to work as well

[Kevin Wood]

I would expect a click from the controller with the CH output as well as the hot water. They have a relay for each. Maybe it is a problem with the controller but I can't understand how the heating works in any configuration in that case.

Kevin

[Boiler Man]

Does it look anything like this?

Try This

http://www.invensyscontrolseurope.com/NR/rdonlyres/6FD690B6-A315-4EF2-81A3-32C983351874/0/D42_4DraytonMotorValves.pdf

I'll try to find a wiring diagram, so you can check the power to the differant wires, then you can tell if the programer is working or not.

[Boiler Man]

In the mean time if you ring the telephone number at the bottom of the leaflet, they may email you a wiring diagram.  

[Taxi_Driver]

Does it look anything like this?

Try This

http://www.invensyscontrolseurope.com/NR/rdonlyres/6FD690B6-A315-4EF2-81A3-32C983351874/0/D42_4DraytonMotorValves.pdf

I'll try to find a wiring diagram, so you can check the power to the differant wires, then you can tell if the programer is working or not.

Looking for something else, ive found it! the wiring diagram that came with the controller that is.  

So i took the controller off the bracket....so it left a row of contacts still screwed to the wall.
According to the controller wiring pins 4 and 5 get shorted for heating on
So i shorted them together with suitably insultated long nose pliers, bit of a spark but still zilch.
But i dont know if it needs any other connections made with the controller unplugged for it to work, ie would shorting pins 4 and 5 be enough to fire up the pump and boiler  :-/

I was going to have a look and see if i could then measure anything of use at the connection box.....but it seems whoever installed it originally.....decided a 'proper' connection box was too expensive.....its a row of chocolate block wrapped in insulation tape  

Job for the weekend i think  

Cheers

PS the piccy looks similar but a bit different if you know what i mean.....obviously thats a new one and mine is about 12 years old

[Boiler Man]

I take it your controller is also a Drayton ACL?

You should basically have 1 Live supply out for HW & 1 for HTG.

If your valve is driving to both positions when asked by the controller, then that should mean your controller is okay.

I still suspect its your valve, I have ask around for a wiring diagram for your old style valve, but had no joy.

I have been told by a supplier that if it is the old style drayton, you cant just replace the motor, which will mean a complete new valve. (Im not sure about that though without having the full model and type details)

I'd suggest giving the number on the leaflet a call and asking them (with the model details) and ask the to send you a wiring diagram, before you start shorting anything else out.

They would also tell you if it can be replaced with just a new motor.

Get yourself armed with a wiring diagram before weekend.

I wish I could call round to help you more, but even Swindon is a bit far for a freeby.

[Auto Addict]

I wish I could call round to help you more, but even Swindon is a bit far for a freeby.

...but he's a Taxi Driver....he'll come and collect you....

[Taxi_Driver]

I wish I could call round to help you more, but even Swindon is a bit far for a freeby.

...but he's a Taxi Driver....he'll come and collect you....

That'll be £260 please  

[Taxi_Driver]

I take it your controller is also a Drayton ACL?

You should basically have 1 Live supply out for HW & 1 for HTG.

If your valve is driving to both positions when asked by the controller, then that should mean your controller is okay.

I still suspect its your valve, I have ask around for a wiring diagram for your old style valve, but had no joy.

I have been told by a supplier that if it is the old style drayton, you cant just replace the motor, which will mean a complete new valve. (Im not sure about that though without having the full model and type details)

I'd suggest giving the number on the leaflet a call and asking them (with the model details) and ask the to send you a wiring diagram, before you start shorting anything else out.

They would also tell you if it can be replaced with just a new motor.

Get yourself armed with a wiring diagram before weekend.

I wish I could call round to help you more, but even Swindon is a bit far for a freeby.

Thanks for you help BM and everyone else.

Think im going to visit the Wicks superstore thats just opened in Swindon......see if they have the same controller.....swap them (as its the easiest) if it doesnt fix it....take it back and exchange it for a new 3 way valve.....but i'll check to see if i can just swap the motor part over first (not holding my breath!)

[Kevin Wood]

You're probably better off going to a decent independant plumber's merchant. The big DIY stores will only be able to supply a new complete valve, guaranteed.

Kevin

[Marks DTM Calib]

Why on earth are you changing the controller when

a) The fault does not sudgest its the controller...
b) You have carried out a test which proves its not the controller....

Plus you have a Screwfix trade counter....

http://www.screwfix.com/app/sfd/hlp/TradeCounterSwindon.jsp?ts=73713

Who do the valves etc....

http://www.screwfix.com/app/sfd/cat/pro.jsp?cId=102632&ts=73565&id=81844

[roaduser]

Ive got exactly the same problem. Ish

when my water is on - fine
when both are on - fine
when ch is on - nothing, just the water being pumped around and the boiler does not fire.

I always thought this was normal lol

[Taxi_Driver]

Why on earth are you changing the controller when

a) The fault does not sudgest its the controller...
b) You have carried out a test which proves its not the controller....

Plus you have a Screwfix trade counter....

http://www.screwfix.com/app/sfd/hlp/TradeCounterSwindon.jsp?ts=73713

Who do the valves etc....

http://www.screwfix.com/app/sfd/cat/pro.jsp?cId=102632&ts=73565&id=81844

It could well be the 3 way valve.....but im suspucious that i cannot hear the relay clicking in the controller when i press the CH button but can when i press the HW button.
And i dont think the test i did proved anything to be honest......ok yes it would have done if the boiler and pump fired up (knackered controller definately) but i dont know if the system needs another feed (another closed circuit  perhaps) before it will work  :-/

Plus changing the controller, if i get the same make (if not the same model) will be a 2min job.....changing the 3 way valve will take me considersably longer esp if if i have to drain the system down  

And as i said i'll just take the controller back and swap for a 3 way valve.

Cheers for the screwfix info  ....i didnt know that.....reason i mentioned wickes....they are doing discount as its a new store plus they (i think) are more likely to take the controller back if it doesnt fix the prob....screwfix may as well  :-/

[STMO123]

Or.....to save a lot of time and effort.......you could just get a central heating engineer to fix it.....you tight barsteward

[Taxi_Driver]

Ive got exactly the same problem. Ish

when my water is on - fine
when both are on - fine
when ch is on - nothing, just the water being pumped around and the boiler does not fire.

I always thought this was normal lol

Not quite exactly the same, mine doesnt pump the water....

And no i havent a clue whats wrong with yours    

[Taxi_Driver]

Or.....to save a lot of time and effort.......you could just get a central heating engineer to fix it.....you tight barsteward

Mark will probably let you know this should be replaced with 'technician'  or similar  

You try getting one in Swindon! Last year I tried for 2 months to get someone to fit a gas fire in my living room.....it was one of those gas stoves with a catalytic convertor in it, so it doesnt need a flue. One did turn up and promptly refused to fit it, saying those things are dangerous! ( yeah right, I had one in my last house for 2 years and it never killed me) and rest of them i callled never showed up

Did it myself in the end......must have got it partly right....as I havent exploded or killed myself  

[TheBoy]

Or.....to save a lot of time and effort.......you could just get a central heating engineer to fix it.....you tight barsteward

Mark will probably let you know this should be replaced with 'technician'  or similar  

You try getting one in Swindon! Last year I tried for 2 months to get someone to fit a gas fire in my living room.....it was one of those gas stoves with a catalytic convertor in it, so it doesnt need a flue. One did turn up and promptly refused to fit it, saying those things are dangerous! ( yeah right, I had one in my last house for 2 years and it never killed me) and rest of them i callled never showed up

Did it myself in the end......must have got it partly right....as I havent exploded or killed myself  

And your dodgy Corgi mate wrote you out a certificate?

[Taxi_Driver]

Or.....to save a lot of time and effort.......you could just get a central heating engineer to fix it.....you tight barsteward

Mark will probably let you know this should be replaced with 'technician'  or similar  

You try getting one in Swindon! Last year I tried for 2 months to get someone to fit a gas fire in my living room.....it was one of those gas stoves with a catalytic convertor in it, so it doesnt need a flue. One did turn up and promptly refused to fit it, saying those things are dangerous! ( yeah right, I had one in my last house for 2 years and it never killed me) and rest of them i callled never showed up

Did it myself in the end......must have got it partly right....as I havent exploded or killed myself  

And your dodgy Corgi mate wrote you out a certificate?

Nope...Dont see why you need one if you live at the property. I had to get a corgi certificate on a house i used to own that i was renting to the local council......corgi bloke turned up.....turned of all gas appliances measured the pressure at the meter.....yep its fine no leaks.....wrote out certificate....charged me £40 for 10 mins work!

Now im no expert......but that doesnt seem adequate.....but hey, council were happy!  

[STMO123]

Or.....to save a lot of time and effort.......you could just get a central heating engineer to fix it.....you tight barsteward

Mark will probably let you know this should be replaced with 'technician'  or similar  

You try getting one in Swindon! Last year I tried for 2 months to get someone to fit a gas fire in my living room.....it was one of those gas stoves with a catalytic convertor in it, so it doesnt need a flue. One did turn up and promptly refused to fit it, saying those things are dangerous! ( yeah right, I had one in my last house for 2 years and it never killed me) and rest of them i callled never showed up

Did it myself in the end......must have got it partly right....as I havent exploded or killed myself  

And your dodgy Corgi mate wrote you out a certificate?

Nope...Dont see why you need one if you live at the property. I had to get a corgi certificate on a house i used to own that i was renting to the local council......corgi bloke turned up.....turned of all gas appliances measured the pressure at the meter.....yep its fine no leaks.....wrote out certificate....charged me £40 for 10 mins work!

Now im no expert......but that doesnt seem adequate.....but hey, council were happy!  

I thought all installations, gas and electric, whether in your own home or someone elses, had to be certified by a registered engineer (corgi term, not mine)

[Taxi_Driver]

Or.....to save a lot of time and effort.......you could just get a central heating engineer to fix it.....you tight barsteward

Mark will probably let you know this should be replaced with 'technician'  or similar  

You try getting one in Swindon! Last year I tried for 2 months to get someone to fit a gas fire in my living room.....it was one of those gas stoves with a catalytic convertor in it, so it doesnt need a flue. One did turn up and promptly refused to fit it, saying those things are dangerous! ( yeah right, I had one in my last house for 2 years and it never killed me) and rest of them i callled never showed up

Did it myself in the end......must have got it partly right....as I havent exploded or killed myself  

And your dodgy Corgi mate wrote you out a certificate?

Nope...Dont see why you need one if you live at the property. I had to get a corgi certificate on a house i used to own that i was renting to the local council......corgi bloke turned up.....turned of all gas appliances measured the pressure at the meter.....yep its fine no leaks.....wrote out certificate....charged me £40 for 10 mins work!

Now im no expert......but that doesnt seem adequate.....but hey, council were happy!  

I thought all installations, gas and electric, whether in your own home or someone elses, had to be certified by a registered engineer (corgi term, not mine)

Probably does m8......but i dont see why!? Can see the point if selling/renting

I look at it this way.....when you come to sell your meega (for another one of course!) potential buyer askes to see the service book.....notices it has a lacking of dealer stamps.....he/she asks why.....you say i do all my own servicing.....they ask you a qualified mechanic then?.......see my drift?  

[TheBoy]

Or.....to save a lot of time and effort.......you could just get a central heating engineer to fix it.....you tight barsteward

Mark will probably let you know this should be replaced with 'technician'  or similar  

You try getting one in Swindon! Last year I tried for 2 months to get someone to fit a gas fire in my living room.....it was one of those gas stoves with a catalytic convertor in it, so it doesnt need a flue. One did turn up and promptly refused to fit it, saying those things are dangerous! ( yeah right, I had one in my last house for 2 years and it never killed me) and rest of them i callled never showed up

Did it myself in the end......must have got it partly right....as I havent exploded or killed myself  

And your dodgy Corgi mate wrote you out a certificate?

Nope...Dont see why you need one if you live at the property. I had to get a corgi certificate on a house i used to own that i was renting to the local council......corgi bloke turned up.....turned of all gas appliances measured the pressure at the meter.....yep its fine no leaks.....wrote out certificate....charged me £40 for 10 mins work!

Now im no expert......but that doesnt seem adequate.....but hey, council were happy!  

I thought all installations, gas and electric, whether in your own home or someone elses, had to be certified by a registered engineer (corgi term, not mine)

Probably does m8......but i dont see why!? Can see the point if selling/renting

I look at it this way.....when you come to sell your meega (for another one of course!) potential buyer askes to see the service book.....notices it has a lacking of dealer stamps.....he/she asks why.....you say i do all my own servicing.....they ask you a qualified mechanic then?.......see my drift?  

I think it is a legal requirement...  :-?

[Boiler Man]

Re your test TD

Sorry I thought you said you had seen the valve driving to HTG mode? :-/

[Kevin Wood]

I think it is a legal requirement...  Huh

If you're working on a gas appliance, yes, but we have only been talking about the programmer and 3 way valve, which are electrical / plumbing devices.

I see no reason why they can't be DIY jobs. Certain electrical jobs are now covered by part P and require building regulations approval, etc. etc. which in turn requires them to be certified but that's not the case for fitting a replacement part, unless I've missed something.

After all, no-one's going to know if your 3-way valve broke so why would they know you should have a certificate to say it's been replaced?

Kevin

[TheBoy]

I think it is a legal requirement...  Huh

If you're working on a gas appliance, yes, but we have only been talking about the programmer and 3 way valve, which are electrical / plumbing devices.

I see no reason why they can't be DIY jobs. Certain electrical jobs are now covered by part P and require building regulations approval, etc. etc. which in turn requires them to be certified but that's not the case for fitting a replacement part, unless I've missed something.

After all, no-one's going to know if your 3-way valve broke so why would they know you should have a certificate to say it's been replaced?

Kevin

I was on about TD fitting his gas fire

[Marks DTM Calib]

As with all the regs surrounding these things.....you can drive a bus through them...

e.g. The Part P regs state that you can not carry out wiring work on any thing within the confines of a bathroom.....however, if you were for example fitting recessed lighting into a bathroom which met the required IP specs for the various zones and you made the connections to these from above (i.e. the loft).....you are well within the regs and can do this yourself....in reality for Part P there is pretty much nothing you cant do if broken down into suitable small 'repair' activities....

Similarly, the gas regs are also very poorly worded and can easily be got around.....particularly if carrying out a job for yourself i.e. for no reward and showing a level of compitence (this might simply be the carrying out of a gas leak test...which is realy quite straight forward)........fitting a replacement boiler though does require a building control submission....

Remember Corgi have nothing to do with the regs at all, thats the job of the gas council (or what ever they are called these days)....

The sad fact is that most who work in the associated fields do not fully understand the legal details of the regs etc and hence there is a lot of poor information around regarding them...

[TheBoy]

As with all the regs surrounding these things.....you can drive a bus through them...

e.g. The Part P regs state that you can not carry out wiring work on any thing within the confines of a bathroom.....however, if you were for example fitting recessed lighting into a bathroom which met the required IP specs for the various zones and you made the connections to these from above (i.e. the loft).....you are well within the regs and can do this yourself....in reality for Part P there is pretty much nothing you cant do if broken down into suitable small 'repair' activities....

Similarly, the gas regs are also very poorly worded and can easily be got around.....particularly if carrying out a job for yourself i.e. for no reward and showing a level of compitence (this might simply be the carrying out of a gas leak test...which is realy quite straight forward)........fitting a replacement boiler though does require a building control submission....

Remember Corgi have nothing to do with the regs at all, thats the job of the gas council (or what ever they are called these days)....

The sad fact is that most who work in the associated fields do not fully understand the legal details of the regs etc and hence there is a lot of poor information around regarding them...

And a brother who is a Sparky is handy for doing any certs on any Tizzy stuff I do.  I'm OK at plumbing (no regs as far as I know).  Don't know any Corgis, so last boiler me and Mrs TheBoy's dad fitted, we got out a Corgi to do the regs, so cost £20...

[Marks DTM Calib]

My cousin is a 'leaky fitter' and is Corgi registered, I have done a fair few jobs with him so he just signs it off for me now....

I enjoy water plumbing......quite theraputic working with copper.....not into plastic yet......I know how rubber seals tend to leak when they are distrubed after 10 or so years....plus there not such fun!

As for wiring....if I cant do it then there is no way a sparky can........ow the days of 11KV live wiring....interestingly, I have been regularly testing my installs for 10+years....how many sparkys have been doing that!

My view of the regs to be quite frank is that they are a bit pointless.....the bodgers will continue to bodge, th ones who were always doing a good job and have a concience will stop.....nothing gained...

[TheBoy]

My cousin is a 'leaky fitter' and is Corgi registered, I have done a fair few jobs with him so he just signs it off for me now....

I enjoy water plumbing......quite theraputic working with copper.....not into plastic yet......I know how rubber seals tend to leak when they are distrubed after 10 or so years....plus there not such fun!

As for wiring....if I cant do it then there is no way a sparky can........ow the days of 11KV live wiring....interestingly, I have been regularly testing my installs for 10+years....how many sparkys have been doing that!

My view of the regs to be quite frank is that they are a bit pointless.....the bodgers will continue to bodge, th ones who were always doing a good job and have a concience will stop.....nothing gained...

I think they do have a (small) place. When I used to work in customers homes, the number of times I drilled through electric because some git had run a T&E at an angle etc  .  And the number of bodged electrics  

Though, as you say, bodgers will still bodge, and the good guys will still do a good job.

I find copper plumbing enjoyable, except the really tight bits (I'm not built to get in tight spaces )

[Martin_1962]

I will do electrics quite happily - don't like water though - leaks worry me!!!!

I ought to get over this as we need a new sink, and I also cannot dismantle a tap in the bathroom which needs a washer.

Cannot find any tap isolators either

[Boiler Man]

£20 for a Certificate, that guy is letting the side down.

It cost on average about £1000 every 5 years for Gas ACS training and tested after, thats just to work on domestic appliances. treble that if you want to work on industrial.

Plus £200 a year for CORGI registration. Plus everything else associated in running a business. That money has to be recouped some how.

I would never recommend anyone work on Gas or the Gas part on a boiler or fire, if not trained. I've seen the aftermath of electricians, joiners and even plumbers (who should know better)when they have worked on gas with only a little knowledge.

If you get a leak on a water pipe the worst that can happen is someting gets wet. Get a gas pipe leak in a confine space and you have a potential bomb.

I personally dont think changing a programmer like for like, is a big problem. Having said that is the problem futher up the control line and you blow the new programer. They wont take it back then.

I'd draw the line at diy gas fire fitting though.

Has it been tested with a calibrated carbon monoxide tester, the fumes can kill as well as gas.

[STMO123]

£20 for a Certificate, that guy is letting the side down.

It cost on average about £1000 every 5 years for Gas ACS training and tested after, thats just to work on domestic appliances. treble that if you want to work on industrial.

Plus £200 a year for CORGI registration. Plus everything else associated in running a business. That money has to be recouped some how.

I would never recommend anyone work on Gas or the Gas part on a boiler or fire, if not trained. I've seen the aftermath of electricians, joiners and even plumbers (who should know better)when they have worked on gas with only a little knowledge.

If you get a leak on a water pipe the worst that can happen is someting gets wet. Get a gas pipe leak in a confine space and you have a potential bomb.

I personally dont think changing a programmer like for like, is a big problem. Having said that is the problem futher up the control line and you blow the new programer. They wont take it back then.

I'd draw the line at diy gas fire fitting though.

Has it been tested with a calibrated carbon monoxide tester, the fumes can kill as well as gas.

Unless its in the proximity of an electric appliance

[Taxi_Driver]

Re your test TD

Sorry I thought you said you had seen the valve driving to HTG mode? :-/

It does when controller was attached to wall and heating selected......but when i had the controller off and shorted the pins together it didnt move from the hot water only position.....so a reason i wasnt convinced that the test proved anything.

Im going to have a go tomorrow morning....as im only just in and slightly pee'd off.....Bristol airport pickup that turned into a no show.....cash job....so i dont get paid for it....3 hours wasted and a tenner of lpg!  

[Taxi_Driver]

I'd draw the line at diy gas fire fitting though.

Has it been tested with a calibrated carbon monoxide tester, the fumes can kill as well as gas.

I took the same approach as i did my discs/pads (never done them before either!) Took my time.....i used union type connectors with plenty of ptfe tape done up bloody tight!

My noise told me no gas leaks......and i have a carbon monoxide mains plug in detector....ok not brilliant....but it never made a squeak of warning (apparently is squeaks if levels start getting a bit high and screams if levels are too high)

Oh and gas fire has catalytic convertor in it so there shouldnt be any carbon monoxide being let into the room.....

[Taxi_Driver]

Now there is a Siemens RWB9 controller attached to the wall (couldnt get a horstman type at Wicks and couldnt be arsed to visit other retailers
)
Took more than 2 mins to fit tho......had to swap 3 wires about, after i worked out which ones!

And i now can have heating on without the hot water on again  

So must have been the old horstman controller acting up

Right.....im off out to earn the £37 it cost me....and some beer money for tonight  

Thanks for your help guys  

[Auto Addict]

Now there is a Siemens RWB9 controller attached to the wall (couldnt get a horstman type at Wicks and couldnt be arsed to visit other retailers
)
Took more than 2 mins to fit tho......had to swap 3 wires about, after i worked out which ones!

And i now can have heating on without the hot water on again  

So must have been the old horstman controller acting up

Right.....im off out to earn the £37 it cost me....and some beer money for tonight  

Thanks for your help guys  

I always said you should be a Taxi Driver - TD

[Boiler Man]

Well done TD

Just shows take no notice of experts.

even the ones 200 miles away

[Taxi_Driver]

Well done TD

Just shows take no notice of experts.

even the ones 200 miles away

  Well there might something not quite right with the rest of the wiring and giving the wierd symptoms.....On sat morning I did try to work out which wire did what.....but honestly you should see it   its like a birds nest gone wrong! However put it in seems to have made it up as they have gone along.....I originally thought there was one bit of chocolate block.....but no, i found another one.....wires go everwhere......so I gave up and just concentrated on the controller wiring.....It really needs a 'proper' connection block and rewiring.....a job for when the weather is warmer