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[JayMV6]

Hi all

Just about to attempt the resurrection of my 98 omega 3.0. When the car was parked up in 2014 the engine was running it just had a leaky rocker cover gasket. at the beginning of 2020 me and a mate tried getting it to run. We cleared out the plug wells put 6 new spark plugs in it and put in 10 litres of super unleaded. The gauge at the time was showing as completely empty. We could only get it to run on easy start so we knew it had a fueling issue so i have a few questions. The idea is to get the engine running before stripping it down and welding all the bits up.

Could it be the immobilizer stopping the fuel pump running?

How do i drain the tank of fuel completely before putting fresh in?

Easiest way of testing the fuel pump without blowing myself up?

I know the car isn't worth the time/effort but i'm using it as a teach myself how to weld project.

[cam.in.head]

due to standing (eliminating old fuel ) you say you have added new and was empty so should be ok !
i would initially suspect seized fuel pump .this should prime with ign switched on for a sec but you can prove its running by bridging the two larger terminals of the purple relays.( there are two,one for fuel,one for injectors so try both. pump should run with both relays bridged.
if it doesnt then check for 12v at the pump itself.
a good starting point .

[JayMV6]

due to standing (eliminating old fuel ) you say you have added new and was empty so should be ok !
i would initially suspect seized fuel pump .this should prime with ign switched on for a sec but you can prove its running by bridging the two larger terminals of the purple relays.( there are two,one for fuel,one for injectors so try both. pump should run with both relays bridged.
if it doesnt then check for 12v at the pump itself.
a good starting point .

is it literally a case of pulling out the relay and putting in a wire in its place?

[Kevin Wood]

due to standing (eliminating old fuel ) you say you have added new and was empty so should be ok !
i would initially suspect seized fuel pump .this should prime with ign switched on for a sec but you can prove its running by bridging the two larger terminals of the purple relays.( there are two,one for fuel,one for injectors so try both. pump should run with both relays bridged.
if it doesnt then check for 12v at the pump itself.
a good starting point .

is it literally a case of pulling out the relay and putting in a wire in its place?

Often the easiest way is to take the cover off the relay and then push the armature to close the contacts. Failing that, short the two wider spade contacts on the relay base.

Also check the fuel pump fuse in the cabin fuse box.

You can undo the return line to the fuel rail and push on a hose. Feed this into a fuel can / milk bottle and you'll see fuel issuing from here if the fuel pump is up to scratch.

[JayMV6]

On another note can you remove the head lining from a saloon without bending it to get it out?

[Migv6 le Frog Fan]

I think you could, but might have to remove the front seats first ?

[johnnydog]

I did it in the summer with a saloon. You have to take one of the front seats out in order to lower the roof lining sufficiently to the correct angle (approx. 45 degrees) to use the widest part of the door aperture. It won't clear the seat base even with the back of the seat fully lowered. I removed the drivers seat as I was working on that side of the car, but the lack of a steering wheel on the left side may give a bit more jiggle room if it is done from that side.
A extra pair of hands is useful to help support it whilst getting out, as it is easy to damage the front of the headlining at it weakest point by the sunroof controls cover / interior light cut out. Although it has a strengthening plate, it is easy to bend it whilst taking it out.
Mine seemed to come out easier than putting it back in, but a helper is definitely advisable.

[JayMV6]

I did it in the summer with a saloon. You have to take one of the front seats out in order to lower the roof lining sufficiently to the correct angle (approx. 45 degrees) to use the widest part of the door aperture. It won't clear the seat base even with the back of the seat fully lowered. I removed the drivers seat as I was working on that side of the car, but the lack of a steering wheel on the left side may give a bit more jiggle room if it is done from that side.
A extra pair of hands is useful to help support it whilst getting out, as it is easy to damage the front of the headlining at it weakest point by the sunroof controls cover / interior light cut out. Although it has a strengthening plate, it is easy to bend it whilst taking it out.
Mine seemed to come out easier than putting it back in, but a helper is definitely advisable.

That's fine as all the interior is going to be coming out anyway as its all got a bit damp in there. Cheers for letting me know

[Fraggles Rock]

It should fit through the boot opening.

May need carefully bending... absolutely not the same thing as folding it in half or creasing it.

For the purposes of this exercise, the metal 'plates' are irrelevant.

There's a how to in the Maintenance Guides.

Oh and expect to find a gallon of condensation above it. An Omega roof is as well insulated as a milk crate.

[JayMV6]

It should fit through the boot opening.

May need carefully bending... absolutely not the same thing as folding it in half or creasing it.

For the purposes of this exercise, the metal 'plates' are irrelevant.

There's a how to in the Maintenance Guides.

Oh and expect to find a gallon of condensation above it. An Omega roof is as well insulated as a milk crate.

lol thanks for the heads up. Reason im removing it is because it looks like its about to sprout mushrooms any second. Toying with the idea of cleaning it and then spraying it or dying it Black. The rust made drain holes in the floorpan will give the water somewher to go tho lol

[johnnydog]

Having considered the options when removing mine, through the boot was my last choice. The width of the opening from the interior into boot would have resulted in more damage from bending than removing it through the door opening. The roof lining is quite rigid in its own right, and didn't seem to take kindly to its original shape being altered too much.

[Fraggles Rock]

 

It's a thin layer of fibre glass with a 3/16" soft foam layer covered in fabric. As long as you don't fold it or bend it enough to crease it then it will be just fine.

Of course, if you're going to be welding the car up as a restoration process you could remove the windscreen and take it out the way it went in.

And I did say be careful with it...

[456lbft]

I know the car isn't worth the time/effort but i'm using it as a teach myself how to weld project.

Before you try and weld anything, you'll need to learn how to cut out and replace the rusty panels.  Good welding is much easier if your panels are rust free and fit perfectly.
Most of the motor trade seem to skip the welding lesson, get a pigeon to do it and just then cover it all with seam sealer and underseal

[biggriffin]

On another note can you remove the head lining from a saloon without bending it to get it out?

  Seats forward, recline seats, forward as far as it goes drop down out of  passenger door,, it does flex enough

[cam.in.head]

any progress on getting it running ?