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[Webby the Bear]

Hi guys,

As per the thread about Ralf I am absolutely itching to get to this timing belt and see if it's out. I revisited MarksDTM's DVD last night for possiby the 9th time (maybe we should have a poll as to who's watched it the most  ) and I got to say it makes more sense every time I watch it and can't wait to open Ralf up  Don't read in to that)

However, being an adult (supposedly  ) I promised myself that as I still have loads to learn I would stick to my toddler-like schedule of works and so far I've done cam cover gaskets, full service, brake bleeding and front disc and pad changes.

SO before I go for the timing belt I'm going to this weekend do rear disc and pad change.

Now I've read Mark's very useful guide showing how to service the rear brakes which includes (what looks like anyway) taking the hub assembly apart and cleaning/inspecting/replacing elements of that.

However, although I do want to do the hub service at some point, I really just want to look at rear disc and pad changes at the moment, like I did with the front. As soon as I've done that... you guessed it... I have a date with the Timing Belt.

SO.

I understand that the rear has the same caliper piston set up at the front (push in as opposed to spin/twist back in) and this is how I'm going to do it... unless you lovely peeps disagree Unsure areas in red 

1. Wheel off
2. Remove caliper (2 13mm holding screws top and bottom?)
3. Brake cleaner on the shims/springy things
4. Re-grease slide pins with my lithium grease and make sure they're able to slide easy.
5. Remove pads. Looks like in the rear brake service guide as if they have to be pinched out through the caliper using long nosed pliers.... but presumably as I'm removing the caliper I'll be able to remove them as I did in the front?
6. Vise grips on brake hose and brake bleeding kit attache to bleeder which has been knocked open.
7. Push piston back using my new piston-pusher-inner tool (Thanks Kevin W.)
8. Remove caliper mount 2x18mm?
9. Remove disc...hopefully I'll be able to get an allen in the hole this time. If not I know what to do to get that out (thanks previously for that , chaps).
10. Reassemble.
11. Top off brake fluid.
12. Pump brake pedal until it comes back.

Think that's it but any help you could give me with my red patches  would be wonderful.

Cheers folks.

Ps, I'm really enjoying these updates on what I've learned/about to learn. I hope you are too

I'd say so far I haven't really been challenged too badly. I do know that cambelt is going to give me some probs. But hey.... BRING IT ON

[the alarming man]

i would jack it up first webby or it will go horribley wrong

[Webby the Bear]

i would jack it up first webby or it will go horribley wrong

  i had planned on it 

[The Red Baron]

i would jack it up first webby or it will go horribley wrong

Lmfao.....what you like..

[Elite Pete]

Rear calipers are different to the fronts. The pads are removed by taking out 2 pins. To get the disc off you have to back the shoes off through a little hole in the disc.

[Andy B]

i would jack it up first webby or it will go horribley wrong

There's always one!! 

[Kevin Wood]

Worth reading the handbrake adjustment guide too.

You will need to slacken off the handbrake cable and possibly also the wheel shoe adjusters (accessible through a hole in the disk) before the disk will slide off since the hand brake shoes act on the inside of the brake disk.

In addition, while it's all apart, it would be worth checking the condition of the handbrake shoes and replacing if required, cleaning the whole mechanism and reassembling according to the guide.

After replacement of the disks, the handbrake will need to be correctly adjusted (again, see the handbrake guide).

[Webby the Bear]

Rear calipers are different to the fronts. The pads are removed by taking out 2 pins. To get the disc off you have to back the shoes off through a little hole in the disc.

Thanks EP.

So, can the caliper itself actually be removed then or is it an integral part of the disc?

[Webby the Bear]

Thanks Kevin,

Just re-read Mark's guide. Actually, loike you said it looks like this should be part of the replacement too (servicing the mechanism).

i'll get down to that and if i have any probs ill come back

[Kevin Wood]

Yep, handbrakes often cause aggro, especially for auto drivers who get lazy and stop using it regularly.

So, if the rear disks are coming off, it makes sense to give the handbrake a once-over while you're at it.

The caliper can be removed. The main difference compared to the front setup is that it doesn't have to be removed if you're only changing the pads, and it's mounted solidly to its' bracket as it doesn't have to "float" (since it's a double acting caliper with twin cylinders).

All will become clear when you see the setup.

Beware that if you're going to unbolt the caliper and move it aside while working on the disk, secure it out of the way with some cable ties, bungee chord, etc. because it's on a long length of rigid brake line which is easily damaged if the caliper gets knocked.

Check this rigid line is well clear of the hub, disk and wheel, and not likely to be damaged when you come to reassemble everything. If it's been bent it can easily come into contact with things and get damaged, then you've got very little brakes!

[Elite Pete]

Yep, handbrakes often cause aggro, especially for auto drivers who get lazy and stop using it regularly.

So, if the rear disks are coming off, it makes sense to give the handbrake a once-over while you're at it.

The caliper can be removed. The main difference compared to the front setup is that it doesn't have to be removed if you're only changing the pads, and it's mounted solidly to its' bracket as it doesn't have to "float" (since it's a double acting caliper with twin cylinders).

All will become clear when you see the setup.

Beware that if you're going to unbolt the caliper and move it aside while working on the disk, secure it out of the way with some cable ties, bungee chord, etc. because it's on a long length of rigid brake line which is easily damaged if the caliper gets knocked.

Check this rigid line is well clear of the hub, disk and wheel, and not likely to be damaged when you come to reassemble everything. If it's been bent it can easily come into contact with things and get damaged, then you've got very little brakes!

Good point, there's been at least one horror story after the pipe has worn through

[Lazydocker]

Yep, handbrakes often cause aggro, especially for auto drivers who get lazy and stop using it regularly.

So, if the rear disks are coming off, it makes sense to give the handbrake a once-over while you're at it.

The caliper can be removed. The main difference compared to the front setup is that it doesn't have to be removed if you're only changing the pads, and it's mounted solidly to its' bracket as it doesn't have to "float" (since it's a double acting caliper with twin cylinders).

All will become clear when you see the setup.

Beware that if you're going to unbolt the caliper and move it aside while working on the disk, secure it out of the way with some cable ties, bungee chord, etc. because it's on a long length of rigid brake line which is easily damaged if the caliper gets knocked.

Check this rigid line is well clear of the hub, disk and wheel, and not likely to be damaged when you come to reassemble everything. If it's been bent it can easily come into contact with things and get damaged, then you've got very little brakes!

Good point, there's been at least one horror story after the pipe has worn through

Me or you? 

[Webby the Bear]

Yep, handbrakes often cause aggro, especially for auto drivers who get lazy and stop using it regularly.

So, if the rear disks are coming off, it makes sense to give the handbrake a once-over while you're at it.

The caliper can be removed. The main difference compared to the front setup is that it doesn't have to be removed if you're only changing the pads, and it's mounted solidly to its' bracket as it doesn't have to "float" (since it's a double acting caliper with twin cylinders).

All will become clear when you see the setup.

Beware that if you're going to unbolt the caliper and move it aside while working on the disk, secure it out of the way with some cable ties, bungee chord, etc. because it's on a long length of rigid brake line which is easily damaged if the caliper gets knocked.

Check this rigid line is well clear of the hub, disk and wheel, and not likely to be damaged when you come to reassemble everything. If it's been bent it can easily come into contact with things and get damaged, then you've got very little brakes!

Good point, there's been at least one horror story after the pipe has worn through

Me or you? 

Quite disconcerting really. 

When i did the front pads/discs i simply rested the caliper on the disc. if i needed to get the disc off i would have held it and then popped it on the hub. it seemed to like it there