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[Ddraigcymro]

Hi its me again had good week with car or there abouts fixed my glow plug problem, also secured the air inlet manifold thing back on to engine correctly. With this said and as the subject title states that's one down and three new faults, well two really as one fault was 48-battery voltage low(I had a feeling battery was on its last legs/sells).

So here I go again with my request for guidance as to fixing these:
my first is;
               37-Incorrect brake switch signal.
the second;
               64-Fuel quantity out of range.

I also still have the infamous 82 fault but engine was not running at time so don't know if this fault is relevant, could somebody please confirm or not whether I can dismiss this fault until paperclip test tried while engine runing.

Thank you in advanced for any help/ replies.

O I do hope its happy motoring after all this is done and no new faults come up.

[Ddraigcymro]

As there has been no reply and a few have read this either I am impatient and expected to much to fast or there's no real suggestions on where to start. A little concerned I am with 37-the brake switch signal as don't know if this could be a danger, as for the 64-fuel quantity being out of range I didn't want to start messing around with things just to find out that the fault is only from a dodgy battery. But while I am waiting to solve the battery issue just wonderd if theres somthing constructive that I could do appart from changing the bulb out on my front spots.

[jonathanh]

some fair stabs in the dark here

37 - I think is typical if you do not have cruise fitted - could be wrong

64 - any problem with fuel guage - could be sender on the way out?  or even related to low voltage?

82- haven't got a clue with this one sorry

try 30 clean starts (no need to turn the engine over just turn off and ign on 30 times)  will clear stored codes

[Ddraigcymro]

Now thanks for the suggestions of clean starts but the glow plug fault has now cleared to now replace with the ones I have now posted I do also get the fault code for cruse control (92) but I have systematically ignored it as non fitted and have read in depth or at least as much as I could about the codes just cant seem to find the angle to take with my new ones, as the three now posted with the exception of 82 rpm sensor ( injector no 4) is a old fault code that remains and also the ignored 92. I do hope that it is all battery problem from here just wanted reassurance from the knowledgeable users of this forum as I have so far learnt lots from the postings on here that your local garage would not necessarily share as it is taking away there custom if I'm fixing my own motor

[hoofing it]

64 is to do with the quantity of fuel being sent to the injectors thats what num 4 is for hense 82 shows up as well.
ignore 64 as 82 is the real fault with a sensor inside the main pump they both work together.
as for 37 faulty brake switch on the pedal maybe :-?

[Ddraigcymro]

That kind of makes sens about 64 and 82 but finding it hard to swallow as the first lot of tests I did gave me the following list;

19-Incorrect RPM Signal
49-Glow Device General Error
82-Sensor Injector Start Incorrect RPM-Signal
92-  Cruise Control Device Circuit Open Or Voltage High

Now I know why 49 has cleared as the two glow plugs at rear of engine weren't connected also thanks to sethsmate the plug off the fuel filter is now plugged back in and probably doing its job. How fault 19 cleared I haven't a clue but its gone so woohoo easy fix as it fixed itself. but now I'm left with the two new faults. If code 64 is related to 82 I can not understand why it didn't show up on first lot of paperclip testing. is this normal or has it taken the car another week to realise I am truly baffled.

I do still have the problem of car cutting out but restarting without bother on bump If non of the above is the cause of this I would presume its the lambda (or however spelt) is failing as when i changed this on the pug 406 it stopped hunting and ran smother at low revs.

[Andy H]

On a V6 petrol engine the first suspect for code 19 and random stalling/cutting out/non start would be the crank sensor.

I don't know if a diseasel needs a good crank sensor to run?

[Ddraigcymro]

Thanks for your thoughts and suggestion of crank sensor, unfortunately I have no idea that the 2.5 td had such sensor mind you i have stated before i am not a mechanic, but have not seen mention of such item on here for a diesel.

[Andy H]

Thanks for your thoughts and suggestion of crank sensor, unfortunately I have no idea that the 2.5 td had such sensor mind you i have stated before i am not a mechanic, but have not seen mention of such item on here for a diesel.

Does the diesel take the rpm signal from injector no4 perhaps

[Ddraigcymro]

Think so, but the incorrect rpm signal code 19 has cleared with paperclip test being done with engine not running all code testing I have done have been with non running engine.

[Seth]

64 usually refers an injection pump fault.
As yours is running okay, I'd ignore this code (unless you want to shell out some serious dosh!).

[Seth]

64 usually refers an injection pump fault.
As yours is running okay, I'd ignore this code (unless you want to shell out some serious dosh!).

82 is No.4 injector.
This has the 'start of injection' sensor within it - again, not user-serviceable.

[hoofing it]

That kind of makes sens about 64 and 82 but finding it hard to swallow as the first lot of tests I did gave me the following list;

19-Incorrect RPM Signal
49-Glow Device General Error
82-Sensor Injector Start Incorrect RPM-Signal
92-  Cruise Control Device Circuit Open Or Voltage High

Now I know why 49 has cleared as the two glow plugs at rear of engine weren't connected also thanks to sethsmate the plug off the fuel filter is now plugged back in and probably doing its job. How fault 19 cleared I haven't a clue but its gone so woohoo easy fix as it fixed itself. but now I'm left with the two new faults. If code 64 is related to 82 I can not understand why it didn't show up on first lot of paperclip testing. is this normal or has it taken the car another week to realise I am truly baffled.

I do still have the problem of car cutting out but restarting without bother on bump If non of the above is the cause of this I would presume its the lambda (or however spelt) is failing as when i changed this on the pug 406 it stopped hunting and ran smother at low revs.

[/color]
the car cutting out could be the small inline filter at the power steering resevoir i changed mine 4 months ago and it idles better it leads to a vacuum pump somewhere below the battery area.
as for lambda I don't think it has one well I can't see it.
as said before if num 4 fails your going nowhere im going to replace the fuel pump soon(6 months) with a re-con so watch this space

[Ddraigcymro]

I am assuming no4 is still working as the car will still run, sometimes very well other times like a twenty year old lorry.

You mentioned the power steering in last post, would it be possible that low fluid levels could cause the cutting out as it generally happens when changing down gear with foot on brake negotiating a bend in the road before needing to stop for a junction. If the diesel has no lambda in the cat as I have not even looked I just assumed as for age of car I would have said it was breather problem just like the good old festas/orions that people hadn't put the red pipping back on the cab's if I remember right.

Or is what I just wrote the symptomes/tell tale signs of this fault 82.

As I killed the battery this morning and couldn't find a suitable replacement I obviously haven't tried to do umpteen clean starts to see if the fuel out of range is due to insufficient life in the now dead, in every meaning of the word, battery.

[Seth]

That kind of makes sens about 64 and 82 but finding it hard to swallow as the first lot of tests I did gave me the following list;

19-Incorrect RPM Signal
49-Glow Device General Error
82-Sensor Injector Start Incorrect RPM-Signal
92-  Cruise Control Device Circuit Open Or Voltage High

Now I know why 49 has cleared as the two glow plugs at rear of engine weren't connected also thanks to sethsmate the plug off the fuel filter is now plugged back in and probably doing its job. How fault 19 cleared I haven't a clue but its gone so woohoo easy fix as it fixed itself. but now I'm left with the two new faults. If code 64 is related to 82 I can not understand why it didn't show up on first lot of paperclip testing. is this normal or has it taken the car another week to realise I am truly baffled.

I do still have the problem of car cutting out but restarting without bother on bump If non of the above is the cause of this I would presume its the lambda (or however spelt) is failing as when i changed this on the pug 406 it stopped hunting and ran smother at low revs.

[/color]
the car cutting out could be the small inline filter at the power steering resevoir i changed mine 4 months ago and it idles better it leads to a vacuum pump somewhere below the battery area.
as for lambda I don't think it has one well I can't see it.
as said before if num 4 fails your going nowhere im going to replace the fuel pump soon(6 months) with a re-con so watch this space

That's the filter for the boost sensor.
One side's vented to the atmosphere, the other via rubber tubing to the EGR valve.