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[omega3000]

That filter on the fiesta looks massive  Took a lot of carbs to bits in the past but mainly motorcycle ones and repaired a few housings with chemical metal that lasted years 

[Webby the Bear]

Ok boys, I'm home, relaxed, I have my tool kit, a lamp light and I have a multi-meter borrowed from the lovely technician from school 

I'm praying someone can answer my Q's tonight as I only have this multi-meter for tonight (don't want to push my luck too much  )

These were the results from a TechII session with TB (thanks mate):

When he turned up, O2 BLMs:
Integrators, around 100 (low)
Idle (B1 - 190, B2 - 160) (high)
Partial Load, around 130 (good)

Air/fuel ratio (Rich/Lean) seemed sluggish at idle, flipped at about 1Hz at 2000rpm, lazy lamdas, both banks.

Reset BLMs, took for drive, all around the 130 mark, except at idle, when integrators crept to 150ish, with Air/Fuel showing lean until then, then flipped at 0.33 - 1Hz

Seemed slightly down on power to me, although Webby said otherwise. MID readings for instantaneous consumption seemed quite low - I'd expect mid to high 30s average when cruising 50-60mph, reality was mid/high 20s. MID has correct 035 config, and readings seem to match Webby's experience of it using more fuel recently. This leads me to suspect that the engine is really using that amount of fuel, rather than leaks (which I couldn't detect, or smell).

After test run, brakes still cold. EGR can get to about 55% before the thing really splutters. Injector cut-off exactly as expected.

MAF, at idle, with A/C off, 9kg/hr.

Last Sunday I got the EGR cleaned out (thanks Martin) and I did an oil change and she runs lovely and seems to want to go!  but still getting the high consupmtion.

People who know me know I have to have my house in order otherwise I get all confused hence the massive thread (so apologies fo that) but this is what I'm going to do. All you have to do is tell me if I'm wrong or right in my approach... oh and questions in red 

INTAKE AIR TEMP. (IAT) SENSOR

I've actually done this already tonight As per Autodata it says to switch ignition off, disconnect the sensor, check ambient temp. and check resistance between the sensor terminals (two of them).
Autodata says ambient temp. should be 15-30oC. And the resistance readings as per below. I had just ran the car for about twenty minutes so things were ''toasty'' under there so I presume that's why I'm getting a high resistance reading of 2040 ohmes (2.04 on the 20k scale).


MAS AIRFLOW (MAF) SENSOR

I haven't done this one yet as it's just started raining  (am going out there again irrespective of the rain as I'm determined to clear this up). Anyway the procedure I'm going to follow is this...I have two options for voltage... AC or DC. Which one should I use to check the voltage???


THROTTLE POSITION SENSOR (TPS)

Again, I haven't done this one because of the rain but again procedure I'll follow...When it says access TP sensor multi-plug terminals... but don't disconnect the multi-plug... wellhow the hell am I supposed to check it??? lol. And both of these checks on the image (Fig. 4 & Fig. 5) I'm supposed to check the actualsensor itself and not it's plug going in???


COOLANT TEMP. SENSOR (CTS)

Obviously, this isn't one for tonight but I want to get this bad boy done at the weekend. But here's the procedure I'm going to follow:


CHECKING BATTERY VOLTAGE

I don't think this is going to affect fuel consumption (or could it?  but I am aware it can affect performance and as I have the meter I may as well check it... should be 12.5, not drop below 10 on start up and go to around 14.5 when running, right???

EXHAUST LEAKS

As per Cem's posts (thanks for them mate) I am going to get the car up on the ramps at school and get someone to give it the beans while I'm underneath looking for smoke or any sign of exhaust leaks between the exhaust manifold and the O2 sensors.

If all of the above work out fine then I'm thinking I need to look at the commpression and do a leak down test. If that's ok then I'd have to reasonably conclude it's the injectors that are bad (leaking perhaps?)

Lot of info there but if someone could confirm all of the above I'll love you forever  (not that I don't anyway you big set of girls 

[Shackeng]

Still enjoying your blog Webby, and I hope you get some answers to your last. HNY

[tidla]

If you do take your car into college,dont leave it in bits unattended.

Fellow student brought his pride and joy in to replace the spark plugs.

Some clever dick decided to "add" a washer while the plugs were out.

[Webby the Bear]

Sorry no update on this for a while chaps but obviously crimbo has been and on our return we haven't been working on cars

we've been making ''stud extraction blocks''.

Basically this is our ''metal work assessment'' whereby we have to join, drill, tap threads, file and measure two metals.

we were given one rectangle of alluminium and one rectangle of mild steel. we had to fit them together with two M10's at either end and fit 3 M8s in the middle, saw the setbolt heads off the M8s and then they are tools that are used to practise stud extraction on..... so making a tool thats designed just for oractise on. odd! lol


anyway we finished making them today and will be practising removing the broken studs on monday. quite handy stuff to know. and learning to tap threads was really cool. the taps themselves (tools that cut threads in holes) are really expensive. tecchie said £130 for a set of 3 M10 taps  made worse when one of the kids broke one by fekking about  as said before i like the kids but sometimes theyre just dickheads!!!!

ill try and get a pic of my finished work. quite proud as aint made anything since school 

in theory we been learning about air intake and exhaust systems,

air intake real easy. same with exhausts really except remembering the gases produced and what could be wrong if any of them are high are quite difficult.

ill do a full update after tmorrows theory hopefully. 

[Andy B]

... saw the setbolt heads  ...

set screws 

... the taps themselves (tools that cut threads in holes) are really expensive. tecchie said £130 for a set of 3 M10 taps    ....

There are taps & taps but a decent make aren't that much.  (although I was quoted £30-odd for a single 1/2 BSP tap! ) Just take your time, use a decent tap wrench (not a 6" adjustable spanner  ) 1/2 a turn forwards & a turn-ish back to break the swarf. It's a bugger to try & get a broken tap out ........ apparently! 
http://www.ebay.co.uk/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_trksid=p2045573.m570.l2736&_nkw=m10+taps

[Webby the Bear]

... saw the setbolt heads  ...

set screws 

... the taps themselves (tools that cut threads in holes) are really expensive. tecchie said £130 for a set of 3 M10 taps    ....

There are taps & taps but a decent make aren't that much.  (although I was quoted £30-odd for a single 1/2 BSP tap! ) Just take your time, use a decent tap wrench (not a 6" adjustable spanner  ) 1/2 a turn forwards & a turn-ish back to break the swarf. It's a bugger to try & get a broken tap out ........ apparently! 
http://www.ebay.co.uk/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_trksid=p2045573.m570.l2736&_nkw=m10+taps

ah yeah, set screws sorry 

well the kid that was messin around basically sheered it in half leaving the one half in the tap wrench and the other half in the stud block... not to mention the bits that came flying past my face at 2000mph  really wasnt happy. if you break something thats fine.. but to do it while dicking about is not on... same fekking kid who set the fire alarm off 

anyway, theres one lad there (real nice kid, got a lot of time for him) who does work with his dad on cars and trucks. with no fuss he  picked up a really thin punch and started knocking it round on the tiny bit that was sticking out. seemed to come very natural to him, was very impressed. i think he'll do well. 

[Andy B]

... with no fuss he  picked up a really thin punch and started knocking it round on the tiny bit that was sticking out. seemed to come very natural to him, was very impressed. i think he'll do well. 

There is such an animal as a tap extractor ...... http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/WALTON-10103-TAP-EXTRACTOR-3-FLUTE-3-16-/350680858355?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_3&hash=item51a6353ef3 (not a good picture  )
They have a leg that slides down into the flute of the snapped off tap. I have to admit that I've never had a great deal of success with them though, if a tap has broken, it must've been bloody tight and the legs on these extractors tend to ben before the remnants of the tap come out.

This might be a bit better

[Webby the Bear]

that looks interesting. ill look to see if theyve got a set at school... they seem to have most things

just trying to think when/where the drilling/tapping may come in handy from an automotive perspective in the future.. any ideas? my initia thought would be if the sump bolts stuck and mangled? or perhaps creating a drain plug for the autobox? 

[Andy B]

that looks interesting. ill look to see if theyve got a set at school... they seem to have most things

Might have .... you can only ask 

just trying to think when/where the drilling/tapping may come in handy from an automotive perspective in the future.. any ideas? my initia thought would be if the sump bolts stuck and mangled? or perhaps creating a drain plug for the autobox? 

Most tapping on a car is just clearing out an old thread or if you have sheared of a bolt (eg exhaust to down pipe on a V6)  want to drill out & re-tap. Same procedure for using Helicoils or Threadcerts. 

[Shackeng]

that looks interesting. ill look to see if theyve got a set at school... they seem to have most things

just trying to think when/where the drilling/tapping may come in handy from an automotive perspective in the future.. any ideas? my initia thought would be if the sump bolts stuck and mangled? or perhaps creating a drain plug for the autobox? 

For example, I drilled out a damaged thread in my TD sump (which had been overtightened by a VX mechanic  ), tapped it, and fitted an oversize sump plug.

[Webby the Bear]

More bench work this week. Has been actually very, very enjoyable except getting a loada swarf stuck in my hand 

First thing on the menu was stud extracting.

So you've sheared a set screw or bolt and you cant get it out with mole grips or something as tits flush with what its screwed in to... what do you do.... i'll tell you 

1.) get a centre punch and make a punch in the centre of the stud.
2.) small diameter metal drill bit in your drill. drill hole about 1/2 - 1 cm deep.
3.) turn in you stud extractor
stud comes out

it does it because the extractor is left hand threaded so turning it anti clockwise means it will grip and as it tightens it turns the broken stud out

the name for it was an ''easy out'' if anyone considers buying one

next we did screw thread repairs. ive already detailed that earlier in the thread (no pun) so i wont go through that again.

if you got a screw thats sheared  but you still got some sticking out, obviously you can get mole grips or pliers on it, but if its too tight theres speacial sockets we used that you attach a ratchet, turn clockwise and it locks on to the bit sticking out. then undoes 

just a bit of diy info.... i got my first ever tool chest at the weekend. it was given to me and after a bit of degreasing and wd40'ing it looks great. man does it serve a purpose. i consider my tools in two sets. my main tools is the halfords carry case set. i love it and when i get to pro i think ill still use this as its so handy. but then there are things that the tool chest is perfect for like breaker bars, spare wrenches, chisels, punches, pliers etc etc. ill tr yand get a pic. well proud of it 

[TheBoy]

I broke a die yesterday (die creates a thread on a bolt, tap creates thread in a nut), cleaning up a damaged thread on a TRE.

Trouble with stud extractors like Easy-Outs, which you won't come across in a classrom environment, is sometimes they can be rusted in solid.

[Webby the Bear]

I broke a die yesterday (die creates a thread on a bolt, tap creates thread in a nut), cleaning up a damaged thread on a TRE.

Trouble with stud extractors like Easy-Outs, which you won't come across in a classrom environment, is sometimes they can be rusted in solid.

thats very true, TB. As mentioned before in a previous post we actually made the stud extraction block to practise on. and the fact we only torqued them to 20nm i can well believe it would be a lot harder in the real world.

how did you break a die? 

 

[symes]

I broke a die yesterday (die creates a thread on a bolt, tap creates thread in a nut), cleaning up a damaged thread on a TRE.

Trouble with stud extractors like Easy-Outs, which you won't come across in a classrom environment, is sometimes they can be rusted in solid.

try doing snapped stud on a 1931 ford side valve engine ******** nitemare of a job took 2 days