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[Webby the Bear]

The issue with counting the turns is that it assumes that the replacement part has the same distance between the thread start and track rod end pin centre.......and there in lies the issue as many OEM parts don't. 

exactly. to me there sounds like too many variables. which is why surely I would think the only proper way to do it is with the lasers and setting each side up correctly that way. then its guaranteed to be spot on.

my teacher reckons that many service centres do alignments now. is that true?  I thought it was a pretty specialised area like WIM for example

[Marks DTM Calib]

Geometry is more specialised and as we all know, there is more to it than having the kit!

You are setting but one of the three standard areas of adjustment.

As for accuracy and the comment re adjustement, this isnt an issue in reality as the image you see is reflected from the mirror via a datum and hene you actualy see an adjustment for each side.

Other key point is that the wheels should be on skid plates to get a proper measurement

[Webby the Bear]

cheers  Mark 

[Webby the Bear]

Afternoon guys,

AWESOME day today. Started off by removing struts....



These are actually SUPER easy. Remove any brake lines, ABS lines etc that may be attached to the strut. Remove two securing bolts to the hub assembly and then undo the nuts or bolts in the strut tower...drop it down... DONE

Check tops and bottoms of coils for sheared parts, check the gaiters for cuts and check for fluid leaks. We didn't do spring removal as we don't have the proper equipment and in all honesty I really don't want to try it with the following kspring compressors which they do have. simple fact is theyre super dangerous and they scare the crap out of me....


We did the first struts on a tigra and then the struts on this shite old N reg (I thik) Fiesta.....

Little bit different..... remove one securing bolt to hub assembly and then get a big pry bar (I used a lady slipper ) to get over the hub assembly and under the chassis...pry down and the strut will come up out of its mount. undo the strut tower nut. done.

WISHBONES AND LOWER CONTROL ARMS....

These attach to the subframe and I presume theyre there to stabalise everything  ill be honest we haven't looked at the theory yet so that's a guess. anyone want to chip in with what they do? 

Anyhow this is a lower control arm.....

...... and attaches to the hub assembly at the bottom via a ball joint.

This is a wish bone....

.....and again attaches to the hub assembly via a ball joint.

both of triangular type shape for strength.

sadly my phone died during it and I wish i'd got pics cos it was super awesome.....

now I did the lower control arm on the vx tigra. it had definitely never been off  seriously, 5 minutes in and I took an executive decision..... everyone was struggling and we're supposed to use hand tools. i'm sorry but hand tools are sometimes redundant..... this was one of those moments!!! I went to the store and got myself an impact gun, an air line and a set of impact sockets. thing was off in 5 minutes 

now I was half way through when my teacher came over and viewed what I was doing. he wasn't against me using the buzz gun but definitely took the view that I should try harder with the hand tools. hahahahahahaha b-ollox! i'm sorry but whats the point in me struggling for 3 hours with a breaker bar?  fek that.

I had a word with him afterwards and he reckoned that the buzz gun damages the threads of bolts removed i'm sorry but what b-ollox. ive seen soooooo many suspension videos on line. and theyre used cos of the impacting motion breaking stuff loose. the alternative? struggle!

look forward to some comments especially regarding the buzz gun thang 

[Marks DTM Calib]

Must try harder.

The main damage risk with the 'gun' is fitting of items.

You should be able, with the correct breaker bar, to remove a fixing that a 'gun' wont touch!

So get practising (its argueable that your short cut is an opportunity missed  ) as there will be fixings you wont be able to get the gun near which will be F-tight. Removing tight things with a breaker is a skill you need to learn as there is a certain amount of technique required.

[Webby the Bear]

Fair enough comment mate... and luckily I had a few opportunities to use the breaker bar today 

on the subject of impact guns.... heres ours 

I asked the technician if he knew what torque it would go to but he didn't know. i'm going to note the make and model to see if I can find out to compare to the electric ones i'm looking at
here's the shop air fixing....

for some reason it shoots off the wall when I release it  quite dangerous. anyone know what i'm doing wrong? others seem to just pop it off lol. and yes I am turning the air off before pulling it...... actually whilst typing..... I wonder if I should turn the air off at the line and then use buzz gun to use up all air between it and the wall thus leaving empty line and easy removal? 

Anyway, today was rear dampers.

after knocking the main bolt loose with a breaker bar I used a ratchet to finish it off...



finally got the bugger out but had to drop the exhaust to get to one of the through bolts but was easy enough  note the transmission jack supporting the wheel in case the subframe dropped on removal. note also the very gay kid posing for the photo. why cant kids be normal? 


and the damper removed from the car....


ok, this should be an easy answer for someone................... why no spring? there was just this damper (or what i'd call a shock absorber)?

[aaronjb]

French car, I'm guessing? They often use what's called "torsion bar" or "torsion beam" rear suspension where the spring action is provided when the rear trailing arm 'twists' a steel tube that always wants to return to rest.

Google can probably explain it better, my words are failing me (that may be because I'm on a conference call at the same time ))

BTW that windy gun looks like a fairly cheap example - it's identical to both my Sealey and the super-cheap Aldi/Lidl specials, so probably has a torque cap of <400lb/ft..

[Webby the Bear]

cheers Aaron. yeah French P.O.S! seen the spare wheel anchored underneath? LOL

Ok thanks for that..... is that standard? or generally speaking do rears have shocks and springs like the miggy?

 

[aaronjb]

I think predominantly cars now will have shocks & springs all round, either coil-over-shock (like the MR2) or separate (like the Omega) with either an arrangement of tie rods & trailing arms (Omega, MR2, etc) or occasionally double wishbones (300ZX, 350Z, etc)..

French stuff used to almost exclusively be torsion beam (my old Renault 19 16v was, as was the Renault 5 GT Turbo) which has the interesting side effect of massively promoting lift-off oversteer in corners which was either fun or buttock clenching depending on your point of view

For some oddities try the original VW Beetle which had torsion beam suspension on the front and the rear, as does the Citroen 2CV - handling capabilities aside it's one of the most simple and robust suspension systems available, IMHO. Shocking handling, though (ever seen a 2CV go around a corner? It looks like it's going to fall over at any speed over walking pace!)..

BTW, when removing the airline you just need to keep a tight hold on the hose end as you click the release up with two fingers - unless they have a one-way valve in both fittings (fixed end and hose) they'll do exactly what you describe without a purge in the line somewhere (as you say, turning off the air and running the tool down would do it, but realistically I suspect most people just keep a firm grip )

[YZ250]

for some reason it shoots off the wall when I release it  quite dangerous. anyone know what i'm doing wrong? others seem to just pop it off lol. and yes I am turning the air off before pulling it...... actually whilst typing..... I wonder if I should turn the air off at the line and then use buzz gun to use up all air between it and the wall thus leaving empty line and easy removal? 

That's what we have to do at work with the air tools, otherwise the airline shoots out like a missile. 

Quite handy when the boss walks by. 

[Marks DTM Calib]

You can get valves which vent the line when turned off

[aaronjb]

You can get valves which vent the line when turned off

That too (although I doubt Webby would be allowed to re-plumb his school or work ) - I have a very nice one at home waiting to go on that's pretty much identical to this one: http://store.norgren.com/uk/en/detail/airline-frl/combination-units-frl/range-is-bl64/bl64_401/combination-filter_regulators-and-lubricators-frl

[biggriffin]

Best windy gun "in the world" in my opinion is a

Canadian pumatics or CP, 

Doah posted in wrong thread...

[Marks DTM Calib]

I rate the ingersol rand ones to

[aaronjb]

I rate the ingersol rand ones to

Ditto - my budget IR one knocks spots off the Sealey one (and since I picked it up as NOS it was cheaper, too!)