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[iansoutham]

Have noticed recently that when locking the car with the remote, not always do all the door lock. There will be a random one or 2 that stays unlocked.

Example would be working fine, then lock the car and all but the drivers rear locks. Next time, might be both drivers doors. Then might work for a few times and then passenger rear door (example).

If you press the lock button again to deadlock, they lock. If you unlock and try again, they lock fine. Always unlock fine.

You can tell if one has not locked by the sound. When not working properly, you get like a slurping sound, but a resounding clunk when they all work if that makes sense.

Other thing is that the alarm horn was removed years ago but have put another horn on and still makes no noise, just flashes lights. Even tried a proper car horn with no sound, related?

Power Sounder was binned in 2015 so that gone.

Part of me thinks CDL unit? Have not done a Tech 2 yet but suspect will not show anything.

Car has been used almost daily during last year as well so not due to being left parked up either.

Thoughts?

[Doctor Gollum]

Can the Omega be programmed to only unlock the drivers door? A side effect of pressing both buttons at the same time on most cars. Unlikely given other symptoms.

Locks won't work of the door is/or the car thinks it is open. So the contact switches could be the issue.

Just because you drive it every day doesn't preclude damp from being the cause, especially if the aircon doesn't work as, iirc, your commute doesn't actually warm the car up

In order,

Contact switches
Failing CL motors (all 4)
Wiring

[iansoutham]

Car does not mist up anymore so hoping/guessing leaks all gone.

Am thinking microswitches and possibly osr door lock/motor as that seems the most common.

Just hoping for some better ideas before I go ripping it all to pieces in April

[iansoutham]

Update....

Ordered a couple of rear door motors from Omegaspares and they arrived a couple of weeks ago.

Finally got round to changing the OSR one last week and so far it is all working properly, every time.

It makes me wonder if that one is the failing one (being the most common one) and it is too slow to move, therefore using too much power and causing other random ones not to latch in time? The unlock and re-locking simply allows it to finish making the movement. The removed one is free to move, like the replacements.

What makes me think this is that even the noise of the fuel flap motor has gone (it would sometimes squeal as it locked, normally signalling that something was not locked).

[Enceladus]

It might be the microswitches in the motors that are failing. The offside rear seems to be common. Keep the old motors as they can be refurbed by replacing the microswitches and cleaning and re-greasing the motor screw.

I don't bother with the deadlocks any more, not since the lock on the passenger side front of a Carlton failed with the deadlock on. It was a right pain to get the door opened with no damage.

[Doctor Gollum]

It might be the microswitches in the motors that are failing. The offside rear seems to be common. Keep the old motors as they can be refurbed by replacing the microswitches and cleaning and re-greasing the motor screw.

I don't bother with the deadlocks any more, not since the lock on the passenger side front of a Carlton failed with the deadlock on. It was a right pain to get the door opened with no damage.

Actually it is really easy You just have to know where/what to press

[Enceladus]

It might be the microswitches in the motors that are failing. The offside rear seems to be common. Keep the old motors as they can be refurbed by replacing the microswitches and cleaning and re-greasing the motor screw.

I don't bother with the deadlocks any more, not since the lock on the passenger side front of a Carlton failed with the deadlock on. It was a right pain to get the door opened with no damage.

Actually it is really easy You just have to know where/what to press

Yes. Once you get the door card out of the way, when you can't open the door and the seat is in the way.

[Doctor Gollum]

You can do it from outside 

[iansoutham]

Another update on this….

In the last week or so it started doing it again. Either unlock and relock or push the inner pin up and down once and it worked fine.

Today the door did not lock so tried to push the pin down and it felt stuck until I managed to overcome the solenoid and feel it pushing down the work drive.

Came back to the car just now and unlocked fine.

Another solenoid dying or something else? I originally thought maybe the door latch was sticking a little so was going to remove and thoroughly grease that initially.

[Doctor Gollum]

Solenoid all day long.

Whilst you're in there clean and lubricate the latch mechanism

[iansoutham]

Next question as am getting confused now….

Fitted another motor in the rain yesterday and (assuming that I fitted the replacement and not the original in the rushing around), the door is doing the same thing, unlock car fine, go to relock and osr door stays unlocked then locks when you try again and the door pin is forced upwards until you press down hard or relock.

Have taken both old ones apart and checked the micro switches, each one works fine and runs continuity on either both outer pins or middle and pin nearest the motor depending on the switch position. This can be repeated endless times with either confirmed open or closed circuit. Check using test power and can deadlock and unlock/lock fine as well.

The door latch has been removed and cleaned then regreased and feels relatively free to move.

Thought maybe CDL module issue but would it only affect the osr door?

Will probably swap current motor back out for the one I assume I removed yesterday to check if I did actually swap it out and to recheck connections, but other than that, I am stumped a little on this at the moment